I’d be in for a set if djblouw made those. The ones made for QS were great.

Started painting my cabinet for my scratch build already.

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Montana Shock Blue Dark

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Excellent, thanks for posting that @cottonm4! Once Shawn gets the next batch of SG harnesses out in the next few weeks, I’m gonna start assembling mine and this will be really helpful.

This is what I used: https://www.cheapjoes.com/catalog/product/view/id/10693/s/montana-gold-acrylic-professional-spray-paint-shock-blue-dark/?gclid=CjwKCAjwzMeFBhBwEiwAzwS8zEC281i6_ctW8TlVrHBIfYK2bm5Fr4IT-96LxfekdvsnRwy4c0nbUBoCOX0QAvD_BwE

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That took me way too long to figure out what you'd done. I honestly didn't even notice that before. Cool option, for sure. What a strange choice on the original.

I think the only jarring thing is the left leg (her right) since her leg covering is different than the backglass.

If anyone has a single original with the stamping around, I have two good and one broken one. Would love to get the whole set.

You can move one of the wires on the connector to change the digit output. I did it on mine but don’t recall which wire it was off the top of my head.

They're fairly easy to DIY with one of those wire bending jigs for the 90 degree part. I just bent the curve by hand. If djblouw isn't making any, I might be able to at some point. I have another SG playfield to work on in the queue myself but I have so many things going on right now

Funny...took me a minute to realize I actually made THOSE because it's my pic!

Haven’t had anything issues but maybe my game is set up steeper.

Slight differences in Stars (and Stingray, Pinball, etc) is the chime setup. Tilt board is a differnt size and a shape, and no speaker hole in the cab. The general idea is the same though. Some earlier SB-100 games didn’t have speaker holes cut either, just a mounted speaker inside the cab but I got a circle jig for my router when I converted a Wild Fyre.

OK going from experience here, the anti-sway bracket is great but in order to fit into the Star Gazer target holes, you have to grind the back lip off of them. Otherwise they get squeezed and close the switches permanently.

Just find a switch bracket of your liking (I do still use the anti-sway and just grind down the back with a bench grinder). Only pic I could find on my phone. I covered the back with shrink tube since grinding can cause some sharper edges.

https://www.pinballlife.com/target-switch-no-target-face.html (I recommend you order the round face because there's a matching inset on the target linked next, but honestly either will work)
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1385-bob-s-pinball-stuff/05863-target-faces (also available from PBR for the same price if you're already ordering stuff from Steve).

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That's a different bracket. Your suggestion would not work.

Because it's a different bracket. You did not use the anti-sway. https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BK3

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It's probably (definitely) overkill to have the anti-sway but they were cheaper when I was ordering. That might have been another reason I put the heat shrink on the bracket. Been a couple years at this point, so I can't recall.

Marco’s are ok quality. Better than nothing. Didn’t cottonm4 just make a batch on clear Mylar? Those looked good but we’re they just Big Game or did you do both, Cotton?

I don’t know if this would resolve your problem or not but you should remove the high voltage fuse on your SDB since you have LED displays.

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If your plasma displays still working you have the high voltage running to your LED Xpin displays. Remove the fuse from the solenoid driver board.

Honestly I’m unfamiliar with the Xpin’s specifically. I just have read that low power LED displays don’t need the high voltage and leaving the fuse in can cause issues to occur with them. Only thing I’ve known from Xpin is their 7-digit conversion system (obviously not needed here)… which I never bought into having read of several errors with them. Calling in the real techs: Quench slochar