(Topic ID: 67929)

Stargate Owners Club - Shoot the Pyramid!


5 years ago

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  • 1,220 posts
  • 180 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Daximus
  • Topic is favorited by 82 Pinsiders


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#441 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

However, it is still almost impossible to hit the left ramp. The only time I can get it, is when I pop the ball up the right side and as it builds up speed and I hit it perfectly. I make the left ramp.
Any advice?

The left ramp shot is not a gimme. Some games, the ball goes up the ramp several times for me, while other games, I can never make it once. Usually the shot is done while the ball is in motion. It has a very small sweet spot, but when you hit it correctly, the ball easily makes it up smoothly.

Often, a failed shot can go half way up the ramp and back to the upper flipper, which can be immediately hit back on the fly, and sail quickly up and over that ramp.

I think it's a fun shot, and it makes the combo insert one of the more rewarding segments to complete.

2 years later
#900 1 year ago
Quoted from campbellut:

Things I need to fix:
weld the left ramp

You, and every other owner of SG.

2 months later
#935 1 year ago
Quoted from clempo:

There is an annoying bug in my Stargate. Sometimes when I'm in multiball with two balls left in play and I lose one ball, the machine turns the flippers off which makes me lose the last ball too. It could be a problem with my outhole switch and trough, but it never happens when there are 3 balls in play, so I'm leaning towards a software bug instead. I have Rev3 ROMs. Is this fixed in Rev5?

Sounds like a trough switch.

Never happens in 3 Ball is because the machine probably thinks you have 1 ball in play (even though you have 2) after one drains.

When you have two, and drain one, it thinks you have zero.

A trough switch is probably indicating a ball is there when it's not.

3 weeks later
#957 1 year ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

One tip is: if you really don't need to take the posts off at both slingshoots. Don't do it. The have lock-tight on them and break easily

Tip 2:

If you really have to remove a post with loc-tite, use a soldering iron to heat the metal.

It will melt the glue making it easy to remove without breaking it.

1 year later
#1178 3 months ago
Quoted from N8man:

By any chance you have a part number for said coil stop?

Part numbers are listed in this thread, although apparently Pinball Resource has a cheap upgrade that supposedly makes the flippers feel more like B/W. This is stated in post #10.


#1184 3 months ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

This is the wrong topic. This topic and part numbers are for converting the whole mech to W/B WPC mechs. Way too much of an overkill. You just need to rebuild the flippers and change the coil stop to a system 1 coil stop.

Did you read either my post or the linked thread?

I said post #10 mentions to simply change the coil stop, exactly the same as you are saying.

But it also provided the answer to the specific question about coll part numbers. Which is why I copied it.

However, I didn't know it just was the same coil stop as on Sys 1 games, so that is good info.

3 weeks later
#1190 80 days ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

System 1 coil stops are #A-17908

When I searched for Gottlieb System 1 coil stops on Pinball Resource page, this is not the correct number.

Steve Young lists the Sys 1 coil stops as A-18265. He provides a substitute coil stop listed as A18702.

Where do you see the Sys 1 coil stops listed as A-17908?

1 week later
#1196 73 days ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

I'm simply pointing out that this statement is misleading since you failed to mention the fact that the system 1 coil stops will work with simple modification. So you are not stuck with system 3 coil stops.

I decided to try out the System 1 coil stop A-17908.

I was able to attach it without drilling or any other physical modification at all. That part was easy.

I removed the original coil stop held by two screws each. Then removed 2 of the bottom screws holding the assembly base plate, (still held by 3 top screws and one bottom screw.) I attached the new coil stop into the side and center screw holes so that the metal stop lined up perfectly. The flipper now has reduced movement, although I did have to adjust the resting position of the flipper to a lower level afterwards.

You can no longer automatically catch a rolling ball by holding up the flipper. But the problem now is that the lower left flipper doesn't have the strength of the full movement to make the upper right ramp. (I did not change the upper flipper coil stop.) I am going to rebuild the lower left flipper to see if that helps.

The first pic shows the original coil stop with the pencil pointing at the resting impact point. The second pic shows the sys 1 coil stop at the resting position, where you can see the protruding metal stub that shortens the movement.

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#1197 73 days ago


#1201 73 days ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

Coil stop goes on this end of coil.[quoted image]

Gotcha. Thanks for breaking it to me.

The flipper movement was reduced appropriately, but I think it reduced the plunger movement too much causing the weak flipper. I'll drill and swap it.

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