(Topic ID: 67929)

Stargate Owners Club - Shoot the Pyramid!

By GTO

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20240413_120445 (resized).jpg
20240413_120413 (resized).jpg
20240413_120404 (resized).jpg
----PLAYFIELDStargate075DPIPFScan for MR KRUZMAN (resized).png
----PLAYFIELDStargate075DPIPFScan for MR KRUZMAN (resized).png
PXL_20240327_202526890 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240327_202541876 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240324_213917411 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240323_181706696 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240323_181041234 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240323_181120542 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240323_181107406 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240323_181130681 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240323_181120542 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240323_181130681 (resized).jpg
IMG_20240316_120832.jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider campbellut.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#898 6 years ago

Just joined the club last weekend. The movie is great so the theme was right up my alley.
I probably paid too much but there is no going back now.

I removed everything on the play field for a good cleaning and rubber change, and to see what hidden treasures the previous owners left me.
Things I need to fix:

weld the left ramp
rivet on a new plate
fix the 2 brackets on ball guides just above the 3rd flipper
Rebuild the flippers
replace 2 solenoids
replace a few incorrect parts.

The plastics are in rough shape. Does anyone have good, to scale, scans? I would like to try making some replacements as there are none available.

Unless someone has a line on where to find a set.

#901 6 years ago

luckily my dad is an amazing welder, he did a weld on the ball kickout on my LOTR that looks better and stronger than factory done, so clean. The ramps will be easy for him, I am truly fortunate.

3 weeks later
#920 6 years ago

I had to make two new ball guides. That was a lot easier than I expected it to be. 3/32 Stainless steel welding rod works perfectly.

19AADB67-9C62-4E7A-9667-D7CF2EA48D6D (resized).jpeg19AADB67-9C62-4E7A-9667-D7CF2EA48D6D (resized).jpeg

3 weeks later
#929 6 years ago

I need some help. I have started going through all the mechanisms under the playfield. I am pulling everything off one at a time to clean, adjust, new sleeves... but I have ran into a few issues. There are two wires that have pulled out and I do not know where they go. I suspect they attach to the connecter in the picture just behind them, but I am not sure.

The other issue I am having is finding where the other connector is for the upper left VUK opto. I was not paying attention when I disconnected it and I am unable to find the corresponding connector. All the other connectors I have undone had corresponding stickers.

I would appreciate any help.

IMG_5901 (resized).jpgIMG_5901 (resized).jpg

IMG_5902 (resized).jpgIMG_5902 (resized).jpg

IMG_5904 (resized).jpgIMG_5904 (resized).jpg

#931 6 years ago

Brunsie thank you. That shows exactly what I needed for that connector. Any insites on the connector for the top left VUK? I cannot seem to find where I disconnected it from.

#933 6 years ago

Brunsie I figured it out last night. it connected to 17. I think it was labeled incorrectly. Everything is working now and put back together. I am finally able to play it. Thanks for your help. I would have gotten it working without knowing were the wired went.

6 months later
#1013 5 years ago

Mine was having a tough time resetting. I took them apart, cleaned, new coil sleeve.
Now everything works great.

1 week later
#1023 5 years ago

The pyramid stays up during game play and the glider constantly moves in/out. Switch issue? The look okay and register correctly during switch test.
Thanks

StratDoc there is a switch that registers when the glidder is fully returned. The wire brakes where it solders to the switch. Resolder, heat shrink, then zip tie it so that it does not put pressure on the solder point when the glidder moves side to side.

515C0F9D-5E48-4BB6-ACCE-E5AE89D96F0D (resized).jpeg515C0F9D-5E48-4BB6-ACCE-E5AE89D96F0D (resized).jpeg

#1027 5 years ago

StratDoc I would reflow the solder on the switch. those look like cold joints and could be the problem or cause problems later on.

It looks like someone tried fixing this already judging by the wrap around the wire. There could be a failure there. Those wires are small and brake easily. Replacing it would help stop this from happening later. Leave an little extra loop in the wire so you will have something to work with if it happens again. Just make sure the wire will not snag surrounding parts.

You could also test continuity on the switch and make sure the lever on the switch is adjusted properly so it registers when the glider is all the way back in.

You could also try disconecting at the plastic conecter and see if there is corrosion. It might be as simple as disconnecting and reconnecting a few times.

#1029 5 years ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

Thank you. there is a third connection on this switch without a wire connected. Is that correct, no wire is attached to that lug on the switch? I note the left/right motor has wires connected to all three lugs on the switch.

That is normal. Switches can be used in different ways. Always on, always off. Go with what is connected if it used to work before the problem developed.

3 weeks later
#1038 5 years ago

Next time cut up sone PVC pipes and put it on a sacrificial board and roll it in. You cou also go to Harbor freight and get a furniture dolly and roll it in or out.

2 weeks later
#1054 5 years ago
Quoted from ita47:

I'm looking for a NOS translite for my Stargate. Could also use both ramps and a pyramid, mine are tarnished and they won't polish up and the left ramp has a broken weld. PM if you can help me out.

I could not find replacement ramps. Both of mine were broken. Luckily my dad is a phenomenal welder and he was able to fix them no problem.

Maybe you could find someone to weld them. Someone tried repairing the left ramp before I bought it. They ended up burning a hole and caused some discoloration due to the thinness of the metal.

My dad's repairs did not cause any damage, so be careful with who does the repairs.

#1056 5 years ago
Quoted from ita47:

My other option is to have them powder coated.

That would look nice. Would you powder coat the habitrails as well, just to make everything match?

My ramps could use some TLC after the botched weld atemps by whoever attempted the repairs. the discoloring is horrible, but not too noticeable from the player’s prospective. I haven’t put the stickers back on the left ramp yet in case I decide to coat them.

Please post a picture if you powder coat yours.

2 years later
#1394 3 years ago

jtbassic you can also check to see if the end of struck switch is cutting power to the flipper too soon. I would also make sure the flipper is properly gapped.

My Stargate had the wrong solenoid coil installed when I bought it.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
4,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Leesburg, VA
$ 17.00
Playfield - Decals
Nordic Pinball Supply
 
From: $ 1.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 24.00
Playfield - Decals
Nordic Pinball Supply
 
$ 24.00
Playfield - Decals
Nordic Pinball Supply
 
$ 15.45
Gameroom - Decorations
KAHR.US Circuits
 
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
 
3,975 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
East Rutherford, NJ
From: $ 209.00
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider campbellut.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stargate-owners-club-shoot-the-pyramid?tu=campbellut and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.