A1 Switch is this?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/a2pKw1hXzdD2w3BQ7

Does someone have a link to purchase Stargate playfield plastic protectors?
Does someone have a link to purchase mirror side blades for Stargate?
Thank you!

Couldn’t do this again if I tried. Two trapped by the diverted and another coming down the rail. Ball search and a little shaking finally got them loose.

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Just used the citrus stripper technique and installed the COLOR DMD. Game changer....

Great enhancement to this game!

EDIT: THIS STARGATE PORTAL IS A SCAM, SEE POST BELOW
I'll leave the link so you'll know who to avoid.
MM
______________________________________

https://www.fixoar.com/products/2021-film-memorial-collection%E2%9C%A8stargate?campaign_id=23850625677990717&adset_id=23850625678070717&ad_id=23850625678040717&fbclid=IwAR0lB_D6EIqBwxIh1vqGcL9LK0Zx8levKGq-oS_hQn0NEIc9-03c3lxlhXs
stargate (resized).png

This is a fake scam ad. Do not try and buy you will not get anything. If you research this you will find it's a one-off model that a person built, it is not for sale anywhere.

My Bad, I dug into the FB ad comments about 75-100 down and saw no bad reports.
Thanks for the heads up, I'll see if I can still edit my other post.

Thanks for sharing. We really need the feed back. As most who got ripped off will not chime in and say this went bad.
Yes, it really looks to good to be true at $50. I can remember the fellow who made this many years ago.
It truly was beautiful. I think he said it was pretty expensive to make and he got help from a friend.
He was only going to make the one for himself. As labor of love.
Not going to sell them. Not for sale. As a lot of people wanted one.

Why no mirrored side blades for Gottliebs?

The trough balls keeps on pushing to the shooter lane even if a ball is already in the shooter lane. What could be the cause? I’m assuming that I should take off the apron but am unsure how as I’ve removed the obvious external screws and it doesn’t budge. It just repeatedly says to shoot pushes a ball into the lane as if it always must have one at the plunger. Unsure how to add a video of it.
CC67052B-B910-4F58-ABD2-146F2C511934 (resized).jpeg

Check the shooter lane switch. My guess is that it's not registering correctly. Hopefully, it's an easy fix like a screw came loose and the switch is just sitting low, or all it needs is a slight tweak to the actuator.

I just added Precision-Flippers to my Stargate...these make alignment so much easier and the quality is superior! Found them in the Market Place...a few colors to choose from...I am told by the vendor Green is the next possibility.

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Did it feel like they made the flippers stronger?

The flippers felt the same, the advantage for me was getting them aligned the way I needed them to be...it is just so simple with these, no dinking around tightening and loosening to get the flippers right...tighten the flipper post once and the rest is done from on top...you can see what you are doing. The mains aren't too bad on Stargate but for me, that upper flipper is a PIA. Also, I really like the anodized look of the aluminum flippers...I will most likely be adding them to a few more of my machines...Munsters will be getting a set of green ones.

Anybody made pinsound work with this game? Would love to change the sounds

I had posted in the ramp thread that I had nos decals for stargate. I scanned them in tonight and thought I’d share them on the

Nothing from PinSound, but this project is in the works - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stargate-alternative-sound-audio-gottlieb-system-3-#post-6817466

Someone asked if thee are mods or toys for Stargate. Strangely enough Hasbro made toys in 95 and you can get this and other stuff on eBay. A full ship, sarcophagus 3d printed and Ra. Lot of Stargate on Etsy. I glued Ra to a clear precise of plastic like the ship. There is even a mastage available. The gate rings came from a Pinside seller. The putty is this tan gorilla brand stuff from Home Depot.

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Do you have a link to your work?
I would like to order prints.

Mastage mounting discs anyone?

seem to be out of stock everywhere.

I, it seems that the problem is not the "A1" switch but an integrated component, could tell me on which board the A1 switch is connected?
Thanks

Is it normal when starting a game to hear beep beep beep for some time? I’m not sure how to test solenoids and relays when it goes through the test routine.

Q1. I thought I read you can customize the demo screen text and both demo display settings are turned on. Possible?

Q2. Also unsure hope to get free credit game match to work. Do you know the name of the option in settings? I don’t see match post game.
Thank you

I get three beeps from mine every time I turn the game on but not every time I start a game.

Okay weird it just beeps for a while then by nature for the first ball of the game

System 3 games are a bit sensitive on the 5v circuit.

I would check the watchdog circuit and also check the 5v off the power supply.

Adjust if necessary by the trim pot.

It could be a couple bad resistors or a couple bad caps.

The game should just beep a bit on start up and then go away.

Also maybe check your ROM revision, The latest ROM fixes a lot of stuff.

I think V5 is the latest and V3 for the matching sound ROM.

There are a couple resistor and cap replacements if you are going from V3 to V5 ROMs.

That is really good to know and may DM you for help. Thank you!

Tons of info on pinside

I have a Stargate. It has the hum in audio. When I first got it. It was pretty loud. I replaced a few cap by transformer. It did help some at that time. It is annoying. A lot of system 3 games. Have it. Any help would be nice? I would also like more info on software update?

Hi there
I am temporary in this club and this is my 1st Gottlieb pinball machine. I love this machine. It is very under rated. However, I just have two questions why the machine making super high frequency noise before I switched to service / settings manual? Is it normal?

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Yes, normal. True an underrated game. It can hold it’s own with top 50 games.

I have an interesting problem with my Stargate.

Its losing count of the balls.

I have already replaced the outhole switch (though it tests good and works perfectly.
The trough switch also tests perfectly.

I have added the spring mod to keep the wire gate from flipping up and letting a ball go backwards. This works very well.

The outhole assembly was a little crusty so I cleaned it all up and lubed the cam hinge with super-lube pen oil. It smooth as butter now.

The coil looks like its seen some heat build up as the sleeve is tight in the coil. It moves, but its tight.
The plunger isnt dragging and the coil isnt heating up after several games.

I know that the system 3 outhole kicker is anemic by design. Too hard and a ball will bounce over the ball release.

My outhole kicker will not clear 2 balls in the trough before the wire gate.

Also the outhole kicker seems slow to respond if I empty the trough and add balls one at a time. It can take 2 or 3 seconds the kick a ball sometimes.

Should the outhole kicker be able to clear 2 balls if it happens to have them there?

Mine wont and I think it should.

Also, I know that system 3 games dont like low power. Power can be low during this record heat summer.

Also, Im wondering if there is a filter cap under the playfield that might be going bad.
The problem manifests itself always after a multiball, when the game is under full load.

If the power is low in the playfield then the outhole kicker only kicks the ball up its trough ramp half way, then the ball rolls back down and the game thinks that a ball drained.

So, to sum up:

Is there a power problem that can be solved with a filter cap board?

Is there a crusty connection on the driver board?

Is the coil just weak? Do I peel of 2 layers of wire on the outhole coil the strengthen it up or replace it?
The ball release coil is the same numbered coil, and I can swap them for testing, but I need some more info first.

All of the above?

To be certain, can someone chime in to tell me if the outhole kicker is supposed to be strong enough to clear 2 balls in the lower part of the trough.

Does anyone happen to have a spare MA-1770 add on speech board? Mine is missing. Even if it is for a different game I can order the ROM for it. If you have the DIP cable that goes with it that is a bonus but I can make one of those if needed.

So looking over my game I noticed that the fuse for the outhole is blown. A couple apron screws are missing on the front (would like to confirm the correct screws to use there) so someone has been in there before. I noticed there is a Williams coil in there and I have no confidence that the polarity is correct on the wiring. This is the first time I am trying to bring up the game. Past history unknown.

I have a manual on order but it would help to know the correct coil number and perhaps a picture of the wiring so I can confirm which wire connects to the banded end of the diode. I want to straighten all that out before replacing the fuse.

Also should the game boot ok without any balls installed or does it have to sense them before booting like some earlier games?

badcoil (resized).jpg

Update:

Ok, so the resistance of my troublesome coil is high. Its 80 ohms and should be 65.7 per the resistance sheet. (https://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html)

I think this is typical of some older coils. They can gain resistance over time.

Not a problem.

I peeled off 50 turns of the 3000 turn winding and got the resistance down to 65.5, put in a new IN4007 diode while i was there.

Set up a test and the coil does indeed fire more sprightly. However if wont clear 2 balls in the lower section of the trough.

I played 5 games and the problem is solved.

Ball count stays consistent and balls now travel up the trough without going back down consistently even after a long game.

So, Ill order a couple coils from Steve on my next order!

the correct coil is A-26451. Its a 65.7 ohm coil (3000 windings!).

The ball release is also A-26451.

AF/AO/AE 26-1200 is a 10 ohm coil. It should blow the fuse over a short amount of time as it will have higher current flow than the proper coil.

Williams coils are all very low resistance (you cant really use them) however it looks like a Bally AO 30-3000 would be a suitable replacement (69 ohms).

I imagine in a pinch you could add a 50 ohm resistor or a pot in-line with the diode to save your fuses while testing.

However the coil might be too strong and will hit so hard that it will feed extra balls into the shooter lane.
But it will work with a resistor.

heres a pic of the coil and wiring:
outhole coil pic (resized).jpg
***A couple apron screws are missing on the front:

The apron screws are metric hex head machine screws, I dont know the size and pitch they look like 8-32 x 3/8" (they are not), so maybe 3.5mm x 6mm or so, or thereabouts.

***Also should the game boot ok without any balls installed?

Yes the game will boot fine without balls installed. It will do a ball search if you try to start a game.

If the game wont go into tournament mode, its likely that the wire fell of the center kicker target in front of the pyramid.
(this is so common its scary)

How is the voltage jumpered in your game? Is it set to 120V? Maybe swap the jumper and try it at 110V.

I have it at 110v to get a little extra oomph to get the ball up the ramps more consistently.

I had it at 120v and moving to 110v solves so many problems in game play.

Kinda like a hi-tap

My outhole problem is solved by lowering the resistance of the coil. It was out of spec by a lot.

I imagine that since the outhole coils is kinda weak by design (though it does work if everything is in spec), you can unwind 50 turns of windings and only have a positive effect. I mean 3000 windings is incredible! 2950 should be ok too but lower the resistance by 10 ohms.

I peeled off 52 turns (while waiting for a replacement) and it lowered the resistance 15 ohms, now its at 65.5 ohms (down from 80 as my coil is partially failed/shorted lol).

No. Coil is just a long piece of insulated wire. Nothing to degrade to increase resistance. Shouldn't be more than 1 ohm out of spec, no matter how old. Coil labels can be incorrect, but coil resistance doesn't change.

Yep, but I saw signs of overheating i.e. stuck or tight coil sleeve etc.

So, external forces altered my coil, not age "specifically".

I do find a lot of 30 year old coils that are out of spec, But again this is not so much age but external forces during their life.

I think that coils can short a bit and still work after they are over heated. This can cause higher or lower resistance readings.

Either way, I fixed it the old school way lol.

New coils will be ordered next week when Steve gets back.

If you're talking about the sci-fi sounding beeps and bloops and not the simple test beeps you hear on startup, those are supposed to stop when you plunge the ball, but I've noticed they don't stop properly if either the plunger lane switch is broken, or if you start a game with the ball already in the plunger lane (In which case you just need to short plunge so the ball retriggers the switch. Then it will stop the sound when the switch is released).

What are the correct length legs for Stargate? Are they the same length as the typical Bally/Williams legs? I think mine has a set of Bally legs on it now.

I have original Stargate Gottlieb legs 31" in length ribbed half way down from the top. But as always it could be wrong...

they look a lot like bally legs

From 1990 to 1996 Gottlieb used either 27" or 31" on assorted games.

Personally I think it stands a little tall with the 31" legs.

Williams modern legs are 28 1/2" fully ribbed

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/D-3768

Once in a while my ball gets stuck behind the right lane drop target. Usually, but not always, the game will eventually go into search mode and release it.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

This is correct.

While I am waiting for my manual to arrive does anyone happen to have the list of rubber rings this game needs? I made quite a bit of progress and got the game running. Now has the correct coil for the outhole and that is working.

Also, what is the latest Main ROM code for this game? I have /3 in it now.

I'm not at my game right now but I'm fairly certain the last two digits are 99.

For rubber rings I always go to Titan and look at their user made kits. You have to make an account but it is super nice to have all the rubbers for a game listed.

Some great info here on pinside:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-stargate-rubber-ring-list#post-3784329-parent

Thanks. That helps. I'm surprised no one added the qty of each size needed. At least that will give a good start.

I think Steve has a lot to do with it, as he sells the rubber kits.

I buy Gottlieb parts from Steve, Great prices and Great quality! I dont mind buying from Steve to insure a continued supply of parts.

I see a lot of DXF files and templates without dimensions these days, its odd but what can you do lol.

It takes more work to do a tech sheet, but I do a lot of them these days.

Ive been remaking a few rare pinball and coke machine parts...