(Topic ID: 67929)

Stargate Owners Club - Shoot the Pyramid!

By GTO

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 39 days ago by Newtothis
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There are 1,686 posts in this topic. You are on page 30 of 34.
#1451 10 months ago

I wanted to see if anyone would buy a new translite probably alternate? I am trying to get a fellow to make some new ones. The numbers are a good motivator, for him. Ok to pm me.

#1452 10 months ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Oh also, what voltage jumper is everyone using? I'm assuming I should be using 120 volts since I'm in the US, but I found that the 110 volts jumper seems to give the solenoids a little bit more strength.

Setting it to 110 or 100 instead of 120 is basically just high tapping it. Will up all the voltages slightly, make coils stronger, lights brighter, etc, for better or worse

#1453 9 months ago

Need help: Stargate backbox lamp board and rope light wiring.

1. Connector hanging loose from backbox marked A27J2 Red/Black/White striped wire, no idea where this goes

2. Connector hanging loose on back of lamp board marked A10P8 Oranage/White and Brown/Green/White striped wires, no idea where this goes

3. Rope Light connector - looks to have jumper wires jammed into connector and soldered to a #44 lamp socket, assuming this is not factory

The rope light also doesn't work, but I have a new replacement from PBResource.

Thanks,

RussMyers

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#1454 9 months ago

Hi all, Just joining the group, I swapped a restored Gottlieb EM "Top Score" for a working but clunkie "StarGate". I'm not new to pinball as I own 11 games. Anyway Stargate is all fixed & i'm looking to shut down the repeating call outs via ROM instead of flipper start. Anyone have news on this?

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#1455 9 months ago

Just joined this club

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#1456 9 months ago

Russ this is a couple pics of mine I just got
A10P8 plugs into rope light
A27J2 not used
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#1457 9 months ago

Stargate is a really fun pin you will enjoy it. Gottliebs are built like a tank. Pinball Resource and Marcos carry alot of stuff for these.

#1458 9 months ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

Nice job on the playfield. You will make a few guys jealous.
I'm not sure I understand the problem as you have described it. You say that during game play the glider moves left and right but the pyramid does not open. Is it hitting the pyramid then because I'm not sure how you can know this if the pyramid is closed.
The game software will engage the left/right motor even if the glider motor stop switch is closed, meaning the glider is retracted. But if the glider right switch is not functioning, the machine will not know where the glider is and not open the pyramid or extend the glider.
Testing the whole assembly is a pain - Gottlieb could have spent some time writing a test routine. Unfortunately, you have to piece it together from running individual tests.
First thing is to go into test mode then go to test 5 - Switch Matrix Test. There should be at least three switches active in this test - trough, outhole and glider motor stop. There may be more depending upon the state of the drop targets but at the least in a properly functioning game, these three must be active. If the glider motor stop switch is not active, investigate.
If this switch is active, cycle through all the tests to go back to test 4 - Relay and Solenoid Test. Cycle to Sol 23 - Forward Glider Motor. Each press of the credit button on this test will raise the pyramid (Sol 15) and advance the glider craft a bit (Sol 23). After the press, it will unceremoniously drop the pyramid down again. You need to press the credit button multiple times to fully extend the glidercraft. You may want to take the glass off for this test and hold the pyramid up so that as you extend the glidercraft, it doesn't keep dropping the pyramid on top of it.
If the pyramid doesn't go up in this test, suspect a problem with Sol 15 (Q16 on the driver board) or the coil (31272) or wiring. If the glidercraft doesn't advance, suspect a problem with Sol 23 (Q24 on the driver board) or the motor (31103) or wiring.
If you are able to successfully extend the glidercraft all the way, then select Sol 22 in test - Left & Right Glider Motor. Again, press the credit button multiple times to inch the glidercraft left and right. Remember, each button press will lift the pyramid and then drop it back down on the glidercraft so you probably want to hold the pyramid up while you move the glidercraft. Insure that you can move it all the way to the left and then all the way to the right. When you get all the way to the right, stop. Now advance the tests once again to Switch Matrix. Now you should not have Glider Motor Stop (SW21) showing but you should have Glider Right (SW30) showing. . If you can't move the motor left or right in test then you may have a problem with Sol 22, the motor (31104) or the wiring. If the switch isn't showing you'll need to investigate further.
To summarize, for the glider to work correctly there are three solenoids involved (Sols 15, 22 & 23), two motors, one coil and two switches (Sws 21 & 30). Since the switches don't have a common row or column, if there is a switch problem it is not likely a matrix issue.
After running the tests report back you results and we can take it from there.
viperrwk
Post edited by viperrwk: Corrected discussion of glider function based on switch states.

Ok, so I have switch 21 (glider motor stop) and switch 30 (glider right) registering correctly in the switch tests.
All solenoids/motors (left/right, forward/back, pyramid up/down) work fine.

Still - the glider will not come out during gameplay.
Sometimes on boot the game will cycle through what seems to be a glider-and-pyramid-test where the pyramid opens and glider comes forward and goes back before pyramid closes.

But in-game - no go.

Switch test doesn't report any non-working switches either.

Does anyone have a clue what could be causing this ?

#1459 9 months ago
Quoted from Zigzagzag:

Ok, so I have switch 21 (glider motor stop) and switch 30 (glider right) registering correctly in the switch tests.
All solenoids/motors (left/right, forward/back, pyramid up/down) work fine.
Still - the glider will not come out during gameplay.
Sometimes on boot the game will cycle through what seems to be a glider-and-pyramid-test where the pyramid opens and glider comes forward and goes back before pyramid closes.
But in-game - no go.
Switch test doesn't report any non-working switches either.
Does anyone have a clue what could be causing this ?

Is there is another switch involved? Can't remember how I fixed mine years ago but for some reason another hidden switch popped in my head when reading your comment. Could be wrong.

#1460 9 months ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

Is there is another switch involved? Can't remember how I fixed mine years ago but for some reason another hidden switch popped in my head when reading your comment. Could be wrong.

There is a switch for Pyramid up (optocoupler board MA-1208 I believe).
I would imagine the pyramid would at least open if this switch was always open - or that the glider would "crash" into the pyramid if the switch was always closed ?

#1461 9 months ago
Quoted from Gemini2544:

I'm looking to shut down the repeating call outs via ROM instead of flipper start. Anyone have news on this?
[quoted image]

mattosborn created a ROM without the main offender. I must have missed it at the time, otherwise I'd have procured one.

Matt, you still around? (Will PM)

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stargate-owners-club-shoot-the-pyramid?tq=Rom&tu=Mattosborn

Update: pinwiki has it available in a zip file, if you can burn your own. I have no burner, hope I hear from Matt! He was selling them at one point.

#1462 9 months ago
Quoted from Zigzagzag:

There is a switch for Pyramid up (optocoupler board MA-1208 I believe).
I would imagine the pyramid would at least open if this switch was always open - or that the glider would "crash" into the pyramid if the switch was always closed ?

I tried swapping MA-2108 (pyramid sensor board) and MA-1334 (flipper sensor board) - the only difference is the presence/absence of a jumper.
That made no difference, so I am assuming the sensor boards are ok.

I have readjusted all switches and gone through the test procedure again, results are unfortunately the same - everything seems to work as it should in test, but in-game the pyramid won't open in the glider multiball sequence on ball #3.
The pyramid does however rise in ball seek, so I am assuming it is working.

I have upgraded from ROM 4 to ROM 5, no difference there.
I have tried running the game with the lamp matrix connector disconnected in case there was an unknown short somewhere - didn't make any difference either.

What I did notice, though, is that the pyramid seems to start opening on glider multiball, it lifts about 5 millimetres before dropping down again.
This happens after the glider has gone left/right a bit and the flasher lamps are flashing, just as if the game is about to start the glider sequence but changes it's mind.

What could be wrong - or am I wrong in assuming the glider multiball with accompanying glider entrance should start in ball #3 ?

#1463 9 months ago
Quoted from Zigzagzag:

I tried swapping MA-2108 (pyramid sensor board) and MA-1334 (flipper sensor board) - the only difference is the presence/absence of a jumper.
That made no difference, so I am assuming the sensor boards are ok.
I have readjusted all switches and gone through the test procedure again, results are unfortunately the same - everything seems to work as it should in test, but in-game the pyramid won't open in the glider multiball sequence on ball #3.
The pyramid does however rise in ball seek, so I am assuming it is working.
I have upgraded from ROM 4 to ROM 5, no difference there.
I have tried running the game with the lamp matrix connector disconnected in case there was an unknown short somewhere - didn't make any difference either.
What I did notice, though, is that the pyramid seems to start opening on glider multiball, it lifts about 5 millimetres before dropping down again.
This happens after the glider has gone left/right a bit and the flasher lamps are flashing, just as if the game is about to start the glider sequence but changes it's mind.
What could be wrong - or am I wrong in assuming the glider multiball with accompanying glider entrance should start in ball #3 ?

User error.

On the pyramid solenoid one of the wires had almost the same colors as one of the wires supposed to go to the sensor board.
The solenoid wire was orange-violet-violet while the switch wire was violet-orange-orange.
Not easy to see, and I had mistakenly assumed they should both go to one of the end lugs of the solenoid.
The right way was orange-violet-violet to the end lug and violet-orange-orange to the middle lug.
Now the glider works !

#1464 9 months ago

There was a person selling the LEd rope light, but I cant find it any more, does anyone know who it was and if they are still selling it?

Thanks

#1465 9 months ago

Yes, I got one. Lots of work to install. However, it looks pretty nice. Glad I did it. You are gonna add more damage/scratches to mirror. I think they are sold out. Contact them and see if they will make more. Looks like they are gone, now. At first look. It’s cheesy but after a bit. And adjusted just right. I love it. Now I see two versions on pinside. I bought newest one. It makes the game look newer. Since I have LED my machine.

#1466 9 months ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

Yes, I got one. Lots of work to install. However, it looks pretty nice. Glad I did it. You are gonna add more damage/scratches to mirror. I think they are sold out. Contact them and see if they will make more. Looks like they are gone, now. At first look. It’s cheesy but after a bit. And adjusted just right. I love it. Now I see two versions on pinside. I bought newest one. It makes the game look newer. Since I have LED my machine.

Thanks but can you tell me who had it?

#1467 9 months ago

Wow hard to find, again. They are only here. Go to pinside market place click on pinside (shops after market shops). Type in Stargate. It looks better in machine than in real life. I tried to add there video here, but my computer skills not so good. I got a blue one. The instructions are not perfect. So take your time.Try not to use to big of a cable tie, for light as it wont slide through hole well. They are out of stock but with several asking for more you never know. Yes, help these folks out buy the rope light. It will make you machine look more up to date!

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#1468 9 months ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

Wow hard to find, again. They are only here. Go to pinside market place click on pinside (shops after market shops). Type in Stargate. It looks better in machine than in real life. I tried to add there video here, but my computer skills not so good. I got a blue one. The instructions are not perfect. So take your time.Try not to use to big of a cable tie, for light as it wont slide through hole well. They are out of stock but with several asking for more you never know. Yes, help these folks out buy the rope light. It will make you machine look more up to date!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks I did reach out to him and he will be doing more of these. Thanks for the help!

1 week later
#1469 9 months ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

mattosborn created a ROM without the main offender. I must have missed it at the time, otherwise I'd have procured one.
Matt, you still around? (Will PM)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stargate-owners-club-shoot-the-pyramid?tq=Rom&tu=Mattosborn
Update: pinwiki has it available in a zip file, if you can burn your own. I have no burner, hope I hear from Matt! He was selling them at one point.

Just restocked the chips needed for this, so I've got plenty ready to go if anyone else would like one. $15 shipped (in the US). PM for payment info.

1 week later
#1470 9 months ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Just restocked the chips needed for this, so I've got plenty ready to go if anyone else would like one. $15 shipped (in the US). PM for payment info.

I'm interested. Can you explain more of what the difference is?

#1471 9 months ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

I made a new audio ROM ... with the overused "SHOOT THE PYRAMID!" callout removed. I just found it a bit annoying that it yells that repeatedly, even at times when that is not necessarily the right thing to do. There are still occasional callouts like "in the pyramid, in the pyramid", "get in the pyramid", and "up the middle", so it's not like you're going to forget to shoot for the pyramid.

I just installed it (Thanks, Matt!) and it is so great not being irritated by that incessant callout!

#1472 9 months ago
Quoted from xamindar:

I'm interested. Can you explain more of what the difference is?

Sure. It’s a simple change to the audio ROM. The audio sample for “shoot the pyramid!”, which gets called far too often and tends to grate on peoples’ nerves, has been muted. I left the other miscellaneous pyramid callouts, since they are used far less.
You just replace the AROM1 EPROM on the audio board (upper left board in the backbox) with this modified chip and life is just a little bit better.

#1473 9 months ago

Pic of actual led ring mod, and control PCB.

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1 week later
#1474 8 months ago

Hello people, Glider works once in awhile, I don't believe it's a board issue or a switch. When I put it in test, left and right are good, but the forward doesn't move unless I continue to press button, it sounds like a gear slipping ,then when it catches, it works good for about 5 or 6 games. After the 5 to 6 games doesn't work again. Should I just replace the motor? seems to me that should be the problem. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

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#1475 8 months ago

PB resource will rework motor/gear box. As long as it is not tampered with. Steve Young is the go to guy.

#1476 8 months ago

Thanks Tony

#1477 8 months ago

Hi. I'd like to get a stronger coil for the upper right flipper (A-25959) of my Stargate, as it gets the ball close, but not over the upper left ramp. The machine is in great shape with a new coil sleeve, not much play in the linkage, etc...

From
https://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

Coil Number | Manufacturer | Size
A-25959 GOTTLIEB LARGE

Resistance in OHMs 3.85/202.0
AWG Wire Gauge 22(?)/30
# of Turns (Windings) 445/1225(?)
Notes & Substitutes Red Flipper Coil

Do you know of a substitute slightly hotter coil at Marcos that I can get to replace it? There is a question mark about the 22 gauge wire and windings. Can anyone confirm?

#1478 8 months ago

The outlane diverter has quit on my Stargate. Its on location so I don't have it here at home. When I was there i didn't have time to fully diagnose it. I quickly looked at the fuses under the playfield but didn't see any that looked blown. I did not check them with a meter though. No broken wires on the coil. So what should I be checking when I get back there to fix it?

#1479 8 months ago
Quoted from token84:

Hi. I'd like to get a stronger coil for the upper right flipper (A-25959) of my Stargate, as it gets the ball close, but not over the upper left ramp. The machine is in great shape with a new coil sleeve, not much play in the linkage, etc...
From
https://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html
Coil Number | Manufacturer | Size
A-25959 GOTTLIEB LARGE
Resistance in OHMs 3.85/202.0
AWG Wire Gauge 22(?)/30
# of Turns (Windings) 445/1225(?)
Notes & Substitutes Red Flipper Coil
Do you know of a substitute slightly hotter coil at Marcos that I can get to replace it? There is a question mark about the 22 gauge wire and windings. Can anyone confirm?

Had the same problem but in stead of changing coils. I changed to a system 1 coil stop. This was all that was needed to get the ball up the ramp almost every time. The longer coil stop shortens the flipper stroke. Making the shots much smother. Don't know if it adds more power also but feels like it.

#1480 8 months ago
Quoted from ita47:

So what should I be checking when I get back there to fix it?

That diverter uses a dual wind coil. If either winding has a break, it won't work. Order a new coil. Had the same issue on mine and a new coil fixed it.

#1481 8 months ago
Quoted from token84:

Hi. I'd like to get a stronger coil for the upper right flipper (A-25959) of my Stargate...

You shouldn't need a stronger coil. That coil is already plenty strong. That shot was near impossible on my game when I got it. I found two big issues causing the problem. First issue was the lane guide above the flipper had a couple of broken mounting tabs. This caused the ball to hop when it hit the top of the flipper. Aligned the lane guide so the ball rolled over the flipper smoothly and secured it (don't remember how I did that).

Secondly, the left ramp had broken welds on the left side. So when a ball hit it, it gave, killing momentum. Secured that and the shot became very easy with the factory coil and likely original parts. Get the lane guide aligned and secured and the ramp solid and you should be good. Also make sure the EOS switch contacts are clean and that it doesn't open too early. Last resort, changing the factory capacitor may increase power.

#1482 8 months ago
Quoted from phishrace:

Secondly, the left ramp had broken welds on the left side. So when a ball hit it, it gave, killing momentum. Secured that and the shot became very easy with the factory coil and likely original parts.

I have to get this fixed on my game. I'm curious the method you used on yours. I was going to try and find a skilled welder.

#1483 8 months ago
Quoted from Lithium:

I have to get this fixed on my game. I'm curious the method you used on yours. I was going to try and find a skilled welder.

I've taken three to local welders, always with good results.

#1484 8 months ago
Quoted from Lithium:

I'm curious the method you used on yours.

No welding. I wedged a hard post rubber under the plastic that keeps it from rattling. Doesn't interfere with the nearby kicking target at all and can't see it with the plastic on. Once that's mostly solid, power isn't an issue. Very satisfying shot.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-6551

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#1485 8 months ago
Quoted from Lithium:

I have to get this fixed on my game. I'm curious the method you used on yours. I was going to try and find a skilled welder.

When you get that ramp welded. Give them the other ramp also. Both of mine, those tack welds broke. Ask them to lay a wet ramp on ramp while welding as you don't want to burn your ramp decal. You can't get those anymore.

#1486 8 months ago

Thanks for the tips on the ramps. I am still leaning toward welding but the post bumper idea is a good quick fix.

#1487 8 months ago

Thank everyone for the advice on the upper right flipper not making it up the left ramp. It's fixed now (like factory fixed perhaps).
* The default coil sleeve (from Marco) is too long and as a result, the flipper plunger doesn't touch the coil stop, has less power, and the flipper does not snap back as quickly to the default down position.
* Also shored up two other items...

1. Took sandpaper and ground down the plunger inlet end of the coil sleeve to just immediately be exposed/felt below the silver metal bracket that the plunger goes through when the plunger activates. So the plunger just now has a little less coil sleeve to go through. It feels great. Now the flipper linkage hits the underside of the silver bracket that the plunger is fed through. When the coil sleeve was too long, then it prevented the plunger from hitting the factory coil stop. When the plunger doesn't hit the stop, then there is also play in the coil as it sits in the bracket. I tried to shore that up with a wavy washer and this doesn't help the plunger hit the coil stop, it worsens it. It's not like an old Gottlieb EM bracket, etc... So taking a bit of length from the coil sleeve securely placed the coil in the bracket, it hit this the coil stop, and feels great when playing. Also adjusted the EOS. No problem hitting the top of the ramp.

2. The metal ramp just above the upper right flipper was bent inwards and I layered four thin 3m brand double stick picture mounting tape layers on the inside of the metal guide, which pushed the guide out so that there is no hop when the ball moves from the guide to the flipper. So it goes inside of guide ->four layers of double stick tape -> against the brace screw. Cheap fix and not too obvious.

3. The upper left Kurt Russel ramp wasn't really broken on welds, but there was a tiny bit of wiggle on the bottom of the ramp towards the player (lower ramp corner). I had a black plastic fork and broke about 2/3 of the shank and placed it against the two black rubber bumpers on the inside of the ramp. It's in the area that sits against the inside the rubber (see phishrace's picture above for the spot... just above where the yellow post rubber. Cheap fix, though the two rubber bummers on the inside of the ramp now go against hard plastic rather than an adjacent rubber ring. Seems like a tight fit and okay.

#1488 8 months ago

Mods - plastic toys or accessories
The plastic rings from Stargate | 3D Shooter Lane & Stargate Wireframe (Pinside marketplace from Mr_Tantrum) look great! On Etsy and eBay are the plastic ships.
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#1489 8 months ago

Mod - Lights from Cointaker and Comet

Some will say that it's more fun to choose the color combination yourself, though I went with Cointaker's kit for Stargate and it looks really great and would recommend if you are on the fence. There were a few bulbs missing or incorrect in the layout that was passed and it was remedied right away (like shipped in the next couple of business days). It came with a paper showing the bulb number and color and the corresponding number of the bulb from the Stargate manual. I did also go with Comet pinball for some special lamps such as full color changing RGB around the upper left and right ramps at the top of the machine (Horus and Sarcophagus ramps). The default Cointaker for the green playfield inserts was yellow on the sheet and requested that they be changed to five green bright LEDs (non-ghosting). Got the Stargate Premium LED light (non-ghosting) set up. A couple of bulbs were bad, but replacements were included, so all good there.

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#1490 8 months ago

Mod - Sound upgrade and transducer (shaker)
The music is great in Stargate, though didn't like the default speaker quality and wanted it to shake, without breaking the bank. I believe that what is below is correct as I recollect. Passing the idea on in the event that someone else wants to do it...

1. Replaced the backbox speakers for $25 with I believe this ( Kenwood KFC1054S )
2. The system seems to be mono. Since the main speaker (8") was mono and full range (why Gottlieb why?), I split the lead from the small backbox speaker and ran it in the cabinet to a little Kinter amp (model MA-170+) for $18. Doing it again, would spend a couple of bucks more to get the Kinter amp that is more powerful. The amp plugs into the AC outlet below the shooting plunger (right front corner).
3. Took the added in speaker wire from the backbox and ran it to a left and right channel input in Kinter. The Kintner input is RCA so used a speaker to RCA adapter (ALEKOR Phono RCA Female Jack to AV Screw Terminal Audio Video Adapter Speaker Wire to RCA Connector). ($8)
4. Took one speaker channel output from the amp and ran it directly to the 8" speaker.
5. Turned off the treble and turned up all the bass on the Kinter amp that goes to the 8" so that it is crossed over for just bass. The Kinter distorts (hums if you turn up the volume too much, so leave it at about 1/2 volume on the amp and the signal is proportionate to the white (primary sound) system sound pot inside the coin door. This works great and you can control the sound level separately that goes to the woofer. The large speaker finally works as a woofer rather than full range.
6. Took the other speaker channel output from the two channel amp and ran it to a transducer (shaker motor). The brand is Dayton Audio BST-2 Tactile Bass Shaker 25 Watt ($37). The Kinter amp powers the transducer/shaker which is why you may want to get the more powerful amp off ebay or Amazon.

In short, it's about $90 to redo the sound on Stargate. The quality of the sound is not amazing (perhaps because of the board quality or the original sound recording?), but it sounds much better AND it SHAKES. Note that the original two wires that went to the 8" speaker are then not used (electrical taped). One of the original reasons why I did this project is because the 8" speaker had a very annoying hum and I wasn't sure if it was a grounding issue or what the cause was. When I tested the speaker line from the two backbox speakers (just unplugging the 8" speaker connectors), there was almost no hum, which is why I split that backbox speaker line to go to the Kinter and disregarded the original speaker leads that went to the 8" speaker (since it's mono-all the same signal anyway). The game is more fun for sure with bass and shaking. Perhaps I split both backbox speakers for a left and right RCA input on the Kinter. It works.
image10 (resized).jpegimage11 (resized).jpegimage6 (resized).jpegimage8 (resized).jpegimage9 (resized).jpeg

3 weeks later
#1491 7 months ago

Troubleshooting Help Request - I received a new audio rom (AROM1) without the shoot the pyramid quote, and also the version 5 game code chip (742/5) from Matt (mattosborn). My game chip was already 742/5, but thought would replace at the same time for fun. I'm assuming that the code was okay and the correct chips. I probably put the chips in upside down or something. Stargate no longer works. I put the original chips back in the right way (can send picture), but now none of the boards have an LED light that goes on when powered. The playfield and backglass LEDs are the only lights that work. The lights don't work for the DMD, credit button, and backbox PCBs. The fuses all look fine. Could all of this have occurred from just putting in chips upside down? Since the original chips are in (that worked) what can I do next to get the game running again? Thank you in advance for any help!

#1492 7 months ago
Quoted from token84:

Troubleshooting Help Request - I received a new audio rom (AROM1) without the shoot the pyramid quote, and also the version 5 game code chip (742/5) from Matt (mattosborn). My game chip was already 742/5, but thought would replace at the same time for fun. I'm assuming that the code was okay and the correct chips. I probably put the chips in upside down or something. Stargate no longer works. I put the original chips back in the right way (can send picture), but now none of the boards have an LED light that goes on when powered. The playfield and backglass LEDs are the only lights that work. The lights don't work for the DMD, credit button, and backbox PCBs. The fuses all look fine. Could all of this have occurred from just putting in chips upside down? Since the original chips are in (that worked) what can I do next to get the game running again? Thank you in advance for any help!

If you put an EPROM in backwards you likely blew a fuse (and the chip). Pull the fuses and test them with a multimeter.

#1493 7 months ago

Trying to join the club!

#1494 7 months ago

It sure is an underrated game. Stargate is a fast pace game. Good bang for the buck.

#1495 7 months ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

It sure is an underrated game. Stargate is a fast pace game. Good bang for the buck.

Im hoping to get a game without a blown out playfield.

#1496 7 months ago

That is best. Not that it matters now. There was someone few years ago talking about repop play fields. Must not have happened yet.

#1497 7 months ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

That is best. Not that it matters now. There was someone few years ago talking about repop play fields. Must not have happened yet.

It was Mirco playfields. Thought they made it but don't see it on their site.

1 week later
#1499 7 months ago

Here is one way to deal with the red paint on the speaker panel.

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