I wanted to see if anyone would buy a new translite probably alternate? I am trying to get a fellow to make some new ones. The numbers are a good motivator, for him. Ok to pm me.

Setting it to 110 or 100 instead of 120 is basically just high tapping it. Will up all the voltages slightly, make coils stronger, lights brighter, etc, for better or worse

Need help: Stargate backbox lamp board and rope light wiring.

1. Connector hanging loose from backbox marked A27J2 Red/Black/White striped wire, no idea where this goes

2. Connector hanging loose on back of lamp board marked A10P8 Oranage/White and Brown/Green/White striped wires, no idea where this goes

3. Rope Light connector - looks to have jumper wires jammed into connector and soldered to a #44 lamp socket, assuming this is not factory

The rope light also doesn't work, but I have a new replacement from PBResource.

Thanks,

RussMyers

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Hi all, Just joining the group, I swapped a restored Gottlieb EM "Top Score" for a working but clunkie "StarGate". I'm not new to pinball as I own 11 games. Anyway Stargate is all fixed & i'm looking to shut down the repeating call outs via ROM instead of flipper start. Anyone have news on this?

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Just joined this club

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Russ this is a couple pics of mine I just got
A10P8 plugs into rope light
A27J2 not used
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Stargate is a really fun pin you will enjoy it. Gottliebs are built like a tank. Pinball Resource and Marcos carry alot of stuff for these.

Is there is another switch involved? Can't remember how I fixed mine years ago but for some reason another hidden switch popped in my head when reading your comment. Could be wrong.

mattosborn created a ROM without the main offender. I must have missed it at the time, otherwise I'd have procured one.

Matt, you still around? (Will PM)

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stargate-owners-club-shoot-the-pyramid?tq=Rom&tu=Mattosborn

Update: pinwiki has it available in a zip file, if you can burn your own. I have no burner, hope I hear from Matt! He was selling them at one point.

There was a person selling the LEd rope light, but I cant find it any more, does anyone know who it was and if they are still selling it?

Thanks

Yes, I got one. Lots of work to install. However, it looks pretty nice. Glad I did it. You are gonna add more damage/scratches to mirror. I think they are sold out. Contact them and see if they will make more. Looks like they are gone, now. At first look. It’s cheesy but after a bit. And adjusted just right. I love it. Now I see two versions on pinside. I bought newest one. It makes the game look newer. Since I have LED my machine.

Thanks but can you tell me who had it?

Wow hard to find, again. They are only here. Go to pinside market place click on pinside (shops after market shops). Type in Stargate. It looks better in machine than in real life. I tried to add there video here, but my computer skills not so good. I got a blue one. The instructions are not perfect. So take your time.Try not to use to big of a cable tie, for light as it wont slide through hole well. They are out of stock but with several asking for more you never know. Yes, help these folks out buy the rope light. It will make you machine look more up to date!

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Thanks I did reach out to him and he will be doing more of these. Thanks for the help!

Just restocked the chips needed for this, so I've got plenty ready to go if anyone else would like one. $15 shipped (in the US). PM for payment info.

I'm interested. Can you explain more of what the difference is?

I just installed it (Thanks, Matt!) and it is so great not being irritated by that incessant callout!

Sure. It’s a simple change to the audio ROM. The audio sample for “shoot the pyramid!”, which gets called far too often and tends to grate on peoples’ nerves, has been muted. I left the other miscellaneous pyramid callouts, since they are used far less.
You just replace the AROM1 EPROM on the audio board (upper left board in the backbox) with this modified chip and life is just a little bit better.

Pic of actual led ring mod, and control PCB.

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Hello people, Glider works once in awhile, I don't believe it's a board issue or a switch. When I put it in test, left and right are good, but the forward doesn't move unless I continue to press button, it sounds like a gear slipping ,then when it catches, it works good for about 5 or 6 games. After the 5 to 6 games doesn't work again. Should I just replace the motor? seems to me that should be the problem. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

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PB resource will rework motor/gear box. As long as it is not tampered with. Steve Young is the go to guy.

Thanks Tony

Hi. I'd like to get a stronger coil for the upper right flipper (A-25959) of my Stargate, as it gets the ball close, but not over the upper left ramp. The machine is in great shape with a new coil sleeve, not much play in the linkage, etc...

From
https://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

Coil Number | Manufacturer | Size
A-25959 GOTTLIEB LARGE

Resistance in OHMs 3.85/202.0
AWG Wire Gauge 22(?)/30
# of Turns (Windings) 445/1225(?)
Notes & Substitutes Red Flipper Coil

Do you know of a substitute slightly hotter coil at Marcos that I can get to replace it? There is a question mark about the 22 gauge wire and windings. Can anyone confirm?

The outlane diverter has quit on my Stargate. Its on location so I don't have it here at home. When I was there i didn't have time to fully diagnose it. I quickly looked at the fuses under the playfield but didn't see any that looked blown. I did not check them with a meter though. No broken wires on the coil. So what should I be checking when I get back there to fix it?

Had the same problem but in stead of changing coils. I changed to a system 1 coil stop. This was all that was needed to get the ball up the ramp almost every time. The longer coil stop shortens the flipper stroke. Making the shots much smother. Don't know if it adds more power also but feels like it.

That diverter uses a dual wind coil. If either winding has a break, it won't work. Order a new coil. Had the same issue on mine and a new coil fixed it.

You shouldn't need a stronger coil. That coil is already plenty strong. That shot was near impossible on my game when I got it. I found two big issues causing the problem. First issue was the lane guide above the flipper had a couple of broken mounting tabs. This caused the ball to hop when it hit the top of the flipper. Aligned the lane guide so the ball rolled over the flipper smoothly and secured it (don't remember how I did that).

Secondly, the left ramp had broken welds on the left side. So when a ball hit it, it gave, killing momentum. Secured that and the shot became very easy with the factory coil and likely original parts. Get the lane guide aligned and secured and the ramp solid and you should be good. Also make sure the EOS switch contacts are clean and that it doesn't open too early. Last resort, changing the factory capacitor may increase power.

I have to get this fixed on my game. I'm curious the method you used on yours. I was going to try and find a skilled welder.

I've taken three to local welders, always with good results.

No welding. I wedged a hard post rubber under the plastic that keeps it from rattling. Doesn't interfere with the nearby kicking target at all and can't see it with the plastic on. Once that's mostly solid, power isn't an issue. Very satisfying shot.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-6551

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When you get that ramp welded. Give them the other ramp also. Both of mine, those tack welds broke. Ask them to lay a wet ramp on ramp while welding as you don't want to burn your ramp decal. You can't get those anymore.

Thanks for the tips on the ramps. I am still leaning toward welding but the post bumper idea is a good quick fix.

Thank everyone for the advice on the upper right flipper not making it up the left ramp. It's fixed now (like factory fixed perhaps).
* The default coil sleeve (from Marco) is too long and as a result, the flipper plunger doesn't touch the coil stop, has less power, and the flipper does not snap back as quickly to the default down position.
* Also shored up two other items...

1. Took sandpaper and ground down the plunger inlet end of the coil sleeve to just immediately be exposed/felt below the silver metal bracket that the plunger goes through when the plunger activates. So the plunger just now has a little less coil sleeve to go through. It feels great. Now the flipper linkage hits the underside of the silver bracket that the plunger is fed through. When the coil sleeve was too long, then it prevented the plunger from hitting the factory coil stop. When the plunger doesn't hit the stop, then there is also play in the coil as it sits in the bracket. I tried to shore that up with a wavy washer and this doesn't help the plunger hit the coil stop, it worsens it. It's not like an old Gottlieb EM bracket, etc... So taking a bit of length from the coil sleeve securely placed the coil in the bracket, it hit this the coil stop, and feels great when playing. Also adjusted the EOS. No problem hitting the top of the ramp.

2. The metal ramp just above the upper right flipper was bent inwards and I layered four thin 3m brand double stick picture mounting tape layers on the inside of the metal guide, which pushed the guide out so that there is no hop when the ball moves from the guide to the flipper. So it goes inside of guide ->four layers of double stick tape -> against the brace screw. Cheap fix and not too obvious.

3. The upper left Kurt Russel ramp wasn't really broken on welds, but there was a tiny bit of wiggle on the bottom of the ramp towards the player (lower ramp corner). I had a black plastic fork and broke about 2/3 of the shank and placed it against the two black rubber bumpers on the inside of the ramp. It's in the area that sits against the inside the rubber (see phishrace's picture above for the spot... just above where the yellow post rubber. Cheap fix, though the two rubber bummers on the inside of the ramp now go against hard plastic rather than an adjacent rubber ring. Seems like a tight fit and okay.

Mods - plastic toys or accessories
The plastic rings from Stargate | 3D Shooter Lane & Stargate Wireframe (Pinside marketplace from Mr_Tantrum) look great! On Etsy and eBay are the plastic ships.
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Mod - Lights from Cointaker and Comet

Some will say that it's more fun to choose the color combination yourself, though I went with Cointaker's kit for Stargate and it looks really great and would recommend if you are on the fence. There were a few bulbs missing or incorrect in the layout that was passed and it was remedied right away (like shipped in the next couple of business days). It came with a paper showing the bulb number and color and the corresponding number of the bulb from the Stargate manual. I did also go with Comet pinball for some special lamps such as full color changing RGB around the upper left and right ramps at the top of the machine (Horus and Sarcophagus ramps). The default Cointaker for the green playfield inserts was yellow on the sheet and requested that they be changed to five green bright LEDs (non-ghosting). Got the Stargate Premium LED light (non-ghosting) set up. A couple of bulbs were bad, but replacements were included, so all good there.

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Mod - Sound upgrade and transducer (shaker)
The music is great in Stargate, though didn't like the default speaker quality and wanted it to shake, without breaking the bank. I believe that what is below is correct as I recollect. Passing the idea on in the event that someone else wants to do it...

1. Replaced the backbox speakers for $25 with I believe this ( Kenwood KFC1054S )
2. The system seems to be mono. Since the main speaker (8") was mono and full range (why Gottlieb why?), I split the lead from the small backbox speaker and ran it in the cabinet to a little Kinter amp (model MA-170+) for $18. Doing it again, would spend a couple of bucks more to get the Kinter amp that is more powerful. The amp plugs into the AC outlet below the shooting plunger (right front corner).
3. Took the added in speaker wire from the backbox and ran it to a left and right channel input in Kinter. The Kintner input is RCA so used a speaker to RCA adapter (ALEKOR Phono RCA Female Jack to AV Screw Terminal Audio Video Adapter Speaker Wire to RCA Connector). ($8)
4. Took one speaker channel output from the amp and ran it directly to the 8" speaker.
5. Turned off the treble and turned up all the bass on the Kinter amp that goes to the 8" so that it is crossed over for just bass. The Kinter distorts (hums if you turn up the volume too much, so leave it at about 1/2 volume on the amp and the signal is proportionate to the white (primary sound) system sound pot inside the coin door. This works great and you can control the sound level separately that goes to the woofer. The large speaker finally works as a woofer rather than full range.
6. Took the other speaker channel output from the two channel amp and ran it to a transducer (shaker motor). The brand is Dayton Audio BST-2 Tactile Bass Shaker 25 Watt ($37). The Kinter amp powers the transducer/shaker which is why you may want to get the more powerful amp off ebay or Amazon.

In short, it's about $90 to redo the sound on Stargate. The quality of the sound is not amazing (perhaps because of the board quality or the original sound recording?), but it sounds much better AND it SHAKES. Note that the original two wires that went to the 8" speaker are then not used (electrical taped). One of the original reasons why I did this project is because the 8" speaker had a very annoying hum and I wasn't sure if it was a grounding issue or what the cause was. When I tested the speaker line from the two backbox speakers (just unplugging the 8" speaker connectors), there was almost no hum, which is why I split that backbox speaker line to go to the Kinter and disregarded the original speaker leads that went to the 8" speaker (since it's mono-all the same signal anyway). The game is more fun for sure with bass and shaking. Perhaps I split both backbox speakers for a left and right RCA input on the Kinter. It works.
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Troubleshooting Help Request - I received a new audio rom (AROM1) without the shoot the pyramid quote, and also the version 5 game code chip (742/5) from Matt (mattosborn). My game chip was already 742/5, but thought would replace at the same time for fun. I'm assuming that the code was okay and the correct chips. I probably put the chips in upside down or something. Stargate no longer works. I put the original chips back in the right way (can send picture), but now none of the boards have an LED light that goes on when powered. The playfield and backglass LEDs are the only lights that work. The lights don't work for the DMD, credit button, and backbox PCBs. The fuses all look fine. Could all of this have occurred from just putting in chips upside down? Since the original chips are in (that worked) what can I do next to get the game running again? Thank you in advance for any help!

If you put an EPROM in backwards you likely blew a fuse (and the chip). Pull the fuses and test them with a multimeter.

Trying to join the club!

It sure is an underrated game. Stargate is a fast pace game. Good bang for the buck.

Im hoping to get a game without a blown out playfield.

That is best. Not that it matters now. There was someone few years ago talking about repop play fields. Must not have happened yet.

It was Mirco playfields. Thought they made it but don't see it on their site.

Boom!!

https://mailchi.mp/5e7c22108959/game-113-is-out-of-this-world?fbclid=IwAR0MReenJ2CUGzSG2hTcS7xQjSUV8qBpvF1doNV57-Fp8g35lm0fSub7q7o

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Here is one way to deal with the red paint on the speaker panel.

Wow! I gotta get this!

Now, someone sell me a Stargate!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wanted-stargate-16