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(Topic ID: 67929)

Stargate Owners Club - Shoot the Pyramid!


By GTO

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,341 posts
  • 196 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 days ago by sixgill
  • Topic is favorited by 93 Pinsiders

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There are 1341 posts in this topic. You are on page 24 of 27.
#1151 1 year ago
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#1152 1 year ago
Quoted from Jaymach1:

[quoted image]

Those look great!!

#1153 1 year ago

Last 2 playfield toys done. They actually look like masks now.

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#1154 1 year ago

Hey guys. Question. This being my first Stargate, is there supposed to be anything attached here where the ball launches too. It’s just a piece of metal. Looks like it’s have some kind of stop.

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#1155 1 year ago
Quoted from Magicmike0:

Hey guys. Question. This being my first Stargate, is there supposed to be anything attached here where the ball launches too. It’s just a piece of metal. Looks like it’s have some kind of stop.[quoted image]

Nothing attaches there as far as I know but there is a bit of foam padding above that on mine.

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#1156 1 year ago
Quoted from Bonk:

Nothing attaches there as far as I know but there is a bit of foam padding above that on mine.[quoted image]

Great thanks, bud!

Another thing I noticed tonight is the upper right ball guide I guess you’d call it (that wall the ball hugs leading you up to the sarcophagus, and back down to the upper right flipper...yeah the metal wall...hope that makes sense...anyway, mine is broken just above the upper right flipper. The piece that gets the screw that holds it down to the playfield broke from the back of it. I didn’t see any of those walls/guide lane pieces on pbr. Anybody know a place I could buy the whole piece? PS I know flipper needs replaced it’s filthy and dry rotted.
0C7AA77D-523D-4BF1-8C71-D82FA8D6B8FA (resized).jpeg

#1157 1 year ago
Quoted from Jaymach1:

Last 2 playfield toys done. They actually look like masks now.

I did mine years ago, they look much better painted

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#1158 1 year ago

Experiencing some weird stuff with my game today.
It’s like randomly starting the glidercraft mode. Sometimes when the ball goes into the sarcophagus it starts, and another time, it started when I hit the power bracket kickback.
Is this normal? Another thing, (not all the time) but it seems to be putting more than one ball in the shooter lane at times on multiball. When it’s not doing that, and a normal multiball is supposed to start, the ball doesn’t kick out into play It just sits there in the shooter lane.
I’m set on tournament mode for free play. Not sure why this glidercraft mode is starting. Also not sure why he multiball modes are screwing with the shooter lane.

Only thing I’ve don’t today was mess with a leaf switch a little on my right slingshot, as it seemed to be firing repeatedly at times. I also switched out a bulb on the backglass but put it back.
Crazy stuff today.
Not sure what I could have touched to mess up the gameplay. It was playing perfect. Here’s a link.

#1159 1 year ago
Quoted from Magicmike0:

Experiencing some weird stuff with my game today.
It’s like randomly starting the glidercraft mode. Sometimes when the ball goes into the sarcophagus it starts, and another time, it started when I hit the power bracket kickback.
Is this normal? Another thing, (not all the time) but it seems to be putting more than one ball in the shooter lane at times on multiball. When it’s not doing that, and a normal multiball is supposed to start, the ball doesn’t kick out into play It just sits there in the shooter lane.
I’m set on tournament mode for free play. Not sure why this glidercraft mode is starting. Also not sure why he multiball modes are screwing with the shooter lane.
Only thing I’ve don’t today was mess with a leaf switch a little on my right slingshot, as it seemed to be firing repeatedly at times. I also switched out a bulb on the backglass but put it back.
Crazy stuff today.
Not sure what I could have touched to mess up the gameplay. It was playing perfect. Here’s a link.

Sorry I don't have any thoughts on your issue, but...Do you have a blue rope light in the backbox? If so, where did you get that?

#1160 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Sorry I don't have any thoughts on your issue, but...Do you have a blue rope light in the backbox? If so, where did you get that?

It’s an led strip the previous owner installed. Not sure what I’d rather have in it. Original or this. It looks awesome like this, but I’m not 100% sure I get all the backbox light changes like the original. I’ll have to check into it. I’ve never owned a Stargate. I’m not sure how the old rope light worked as far as light changes. Heard it was interative.

#1161 1 year ago
Quoted from Magicmike0:

Experiencing some weird stuff with my game today.

Glidercraft will automatically start on 3rd ball if you haven't done that mode already.
Looks like you have a problem with your shooter lane switch. Clean/adjust. Then go into switch test mode and check that switch and the ball trough switches while you're at it.

#1162 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Glidercraft will automatically start on 3rd ball if you haven't done that mode already.
Looks like you have a problem with your shooter lane switch. Clean/adjust. Then go into switch test mode and check that switch and the ball trough switches while you're at it.

Thanks bud, I finally found the manual and saw that about the glidercraft. Lol.
I thought I deleted my post here and put it in a tech/generic post. I’ll check the switches next time i get a free moment.

1 week later
#1163 1 year ago

Well crap. I was all excited to check out my new GI’s and tested most of the way through. I didn’t check the last couple..and once I was done, I turned it on....none of them are working
Blew the f9 fuse, and of course I don’t have any on hand. Now I don’t know if it will keep blowing or what the problem is yet.

#1164 1 year ago

Here’s my before and after. Not 100% sure about the outcome, but I like it better than it was. The Red Led’s Almost look pink under the pyramid plastics, but I think all the colors remind me of the galaxy artwork, so I do kind of like it. May change it a little, but not sure.
I have the plastic ramp and skill shot plastic on the way, along with a flipper rebuild kit and new flipper bats.
Im debating tearing it all down and doing my first Mylar removal, touch up, clear coat. I am terrified, but would love the experience. Seen some great work by some of you guys. Makes me want to try it.

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#1165 1 year ago
Quoted from Magicmike0:

Im debating tearing it all down and doing my first Mylar removal, touch up, clear coat.

I’d advise against removing the Mylar from a Stargate. Most of the silver playfield paint will come up with it.

#1166 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

I’d advise against removing the Mylar from a Stargate. Most of the silver playfield paint will come up with it.

Yeah I already have bad spots on my silver around The Stargate and at the Mylar near the flippers. I can definitely see that being a problem. I also have the common bomb wear on the right side. I’ve seen that numerous times on people’s SG’s and almost thought it was the way it was supposed to look.
What got me wanting to do it though, was the pics I found on here. I can’t seem to find the post now, but the guy did a good job. You could tell where the Mylar took some of the artwork up, but it looked a lot better than it did after his touch ups. Couldn’t tell, unless you were looking for it. I probably won’t do it. I may buy something far gone and try touching it up for fun. Hate to ruin a fairly decent looking Stargate. It has all the cracks that come with it, in the clear, but looks good from a distance. Lol.
Would you suggest a way to remove the Mylar that is peeling up, and touching it up? It’s just starting to lift.
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#1167 1 year ago
Quoted from Magicmike0:

Yeah I already have bad spots on my silver around The Stargate near the flippers. I can definitely see that being a problem. Also have the place on the bomb below the pyramid. What got me wanting to do it though, was the pics I found on here. I can’t seem to find the post now, but the guy did a good job. You could tell where the Mylar took some of the artwork up, but it looked a lot better than it did after his touch ups. Couldn’t tell, unless you were looking for it. I probably won’t do it. I may buy something far gone and try touching it up for fun. Hate to ruin a fairly decent looking Stargate. It has all the cracks that come with it, in the clear, but looks good from a distance. Lol.
Would you suggest a way to remove the Mylar that is peeling up, and touching it up? It’s just starting to lift.[quoted image]

#1168 1 year ago

I think I heard that someone was probably going to do a remake, a replacement playfield. That would be the way to go.

#1169 1 year ago

Hi Mike. Stargate is a great game. I would work on only one problem at a time. I want to know. So are you saying
it never launches the ball on its own?

#1170 1 year ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

Hi Mike. Stargate is a great game. I would work on only one problem at a time. I want to know. So are you saying
it never launches the ball on its own?

Ball launch seems to be fine now after a little tweaking under the playfield. Glidercraft wasn’t a problem after all. I didn’t realize it was a setting on the game.

#1171 1 year ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

I think I heard that someone was probably going to do a remake, a replacement playfield. That would be the way to go.

That’s awesome! I heard that too. Hopefully they’ll take orders and let everyone know.

#1172 1 year ago

Here's the thread regarding reproduction playfields. No answer yet on Stargate from about a week ago.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mircoplayfields-is-doing-gottlieb-playfields/page/5#post-4821068

#1173 1 year ago

Finally made the club. Mine was missing ball diverter. About 3 broken switch wires. Now waiting for my parts order. Coils, flipper parts, diverter, etc. Now cleaning and some paint mods.

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#1174 1 year ago

Just got my first order in the mail from Steve Young today! Gonna take me a little bit to rebuild, but hopefully not too long. Just snagged a flipper rebuild kit with new bats(plus parts for 3rd flipper), skill shot plastic, and plastic ramp assembly. I’m sure they’ll be plenty more orders ahead. One thing I forgot already was flipper rubbers, and a new decal for the ramp.
Anybody know where I can get the correct Gottlieb (flipper rubbers)size in different colors? I’ve seen guys with blue and purple flipper rubber. Looked pretty good. If nothing else I’ll stick with black. I think Titan has some. It looked to be standard size though. Wonder why Gottlieb went smaller in width?
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#1175 1 year ago
Quoted from N8man:

Finally made the club. Mine was missing ball diverter. About 3 broken switch wires. Now waiting for my parts order. Coils, flipper parts, diverter, etc. Now cleaning and some paint mods.[quoted image][quoted image]

Looking good so far!

#1176 1 year ago

Just a reminder for the new guys in the club. If you want to make your Stargate shoot like a W/B pin. Change the coil stops to Gottlieb system ones. You just have to drill the mounting holes out a little bigger. Think it’s a #10 bit. You won’t believe the difference.

#1177 1 year ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

Just a reminder for the new guys in the club. If you want to make your Stargate shoot like a W/B pin. Change the coil stops to Gottlieb system ones. You just have to drill the mounting holes out a little bigger. Think it’s a #10 bit. You won’t believe the difference.

By any chance you have a part number for said coil stop?

-1
#1178 1 year ago
Quoted from N8man:

By any chance you have a part number for said coil stop?

Part numbers are listed in this thread, although apparently Pinball Resource has a cheap upgrade that supposedly makes the flippers feel more like B/W. This is stated in post #10.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/converting-got-sys3-flippers-to-bw#post-2109633

#1179 1 year ago

The GTB flippers work perfectly fine once rebuilt, and are unique to these games. I don’t get the point of trying to make them feel more like B/W. But I suppose changing the coil stops is a simple and easily reversible mod... if you really feel the need to.

#1180 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

The GTB flippers work perfectly fine once rebuilt, and are unique to these games. I don’t get the point of trying to make them feel more like B/W. But I suppose changing the coil stops is a simple and easily reversible mod... if you really feel the need to.

I just changed my main flippers out today. Working great! I think I put it all back together correct. I read vids guide and looked at the exploded illustration in my Stargate manual. I don’t think the manual is the exact same as Vid explains it. Looks like he covers most games except Gottlieb. I followed his method though. I put the coil sleeve in with the flat end at the coil stop, and the long end coming out of the diode side, as he explained it. I think the illustration is different in the Stargate manual. Anyway, as you said after the rebuild I feel like I need to take the angle on up in the back. Lol. I’m killing the right ramp. I will have to rebuild the upper right flipper next and see if the left ramp gets easier too. I can hit it already, but have to catch the ball rolling after a sarcophagus drop target bounce. I can hit it off a ball launch a lot of times already too. Flipper rebuild is a must on Stargate

#1181 1 year ago
Quoted from N8man:

By any chance you have a part number for said coil stop?

System 1 coil stops are #A-17908

#1182 1 year ago
Quoted from RTS:

Part numbers are listed in this thread, although apparently Pinball Resource has a cheap upgrade that supposedly makes the flippers feel more like B/W. This is stated in post #10.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/converting-got-sys3-flippers-to-bw#post-2109633

This is the wrong topic. This topic and part numbers are for converting the whole mech to W/B WPC mechs. Way too much of an overkill. You just need to rebuild the flippers and change the coil stop to a system 1 coil stop.

#1183 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

The GTB flippers work perfectly fine once rebuilt, and are unique to these games. I don’t get the point of trying to make them feel more like B/W. But I suppose changing the coil stops is a simple and easily reversible mod... if you really feel the need to.

The main point is to get rid of the supper long flipper travel and ridiculously easy flipper cradle. I too said the same thing for the first 10 years of owning my Stargate and Freddy. Then I played a Stargate at a show with the system 1 coil stops in it. Needless to say, I changed both my games over to the system 1 coil stops. Flippers feel more responsive and have more snap to them. There's no going back once you play one.

#1184 1 year ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

This is the wrong topic. This topic and part numbers are for converting the whole mech to W/B WPC mechs. Way too much of an overkill. You just need to rebuild the flippers and change the coil stop to a system 1 coil stop.

Did you read either my post or the linked thread?

I said post #10 mentions to simply change the coil stop, exactly the same as you are saying.

But it also provided the answer to the specific question about coll part numbers. Which is why I copied it.

However, I didn't know it just was the same coil stop as on Sys 1 games, so that is good info.

#1185 1 year ago

Could someone please tell me what the exact dimensions of each card should be, as they don't always print exactly correct? These are for another Pinsider, so I don't actually have the pin to measure them myself.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stargate-owners-club-shoot-the-pyramid/page/23#post-4793657

Added 14 months ago:

Still need dimensions of the two apron cards, and I'm very appreciative of anyone who can provide them.

#1186 1 year ago

I'm printing these Stargate cards for $10 per set, including US postage. I print these on a photo printer using OEM ink (no cheap third party) and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then cover in 3 mil clear gloss laminate, and razor cut to size.

Please PM me if interested.

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3 weeks later
-1
#1187 1 year ago
Quoted from RTS:

Did you read either my post or the linked thread?
I said post #10 mentions to simply change the coil stop, exactly the same as you are saying.
But it also provided the answer to the specific question about coll part numbers. Which is why I copied it.
However, I didn't know it just was the same coil stop as on Sys 1 games, so that is good info.

I spoke with Steve Young today about the "special flipper stops". He said there is no such animal. He modified a few stops for someone who was relentless in requesting this modification. He said he has no time or desire to make these again. As for the System one stops. He said they don't work! They look like they will but they won't. So unless someone wants to make a modified part to sell on their own, we're stuck using the original System 3 style stops.

I'd be in for two sets of a modified stop. Any makers out there?

#1188 1 year ago
Quoted from Orbian:

I spoke with Steve Young today about the "special flipper stops". He said there is no such animal. He modified a few stops for someone who was relentless in requesting this modification. He said he has no time or desire to make these again.

Correct! he doesn't make the modified stop. I could have told you that.

Quoted from Orbian:

So unless someone wants to make a modified part to sell on their own, we're stuck using the original System 3 style stops.

Incorrect!
To use the system one coil stop all you have to do is drill out the two mounting holes on the system 1 coil stop with a #10 drill bit. System 1 used a #8 size screw and system 3 used a #10 size screw. It's that simple.

Quoted from arcademojo:

Just a reminder for the new guys in the club. If you want to make your Stargate shoot like a W/B pin. Change the coil stops to Gottlieb system ones. You just have to drill the mounting holes out a little bigger. Think it’s a #10 bit. You won’t believe the difference.

#1189 1 year ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

Just a reminder for the new guys in the club. If you want to make your Stargate shoot like a W/B pin. Change the coil stops to Gottlieb system ones. You just have to drill the mounting holes out a little bigger. Think it’s a #10 bit. You won’t believe the difference.

Verified today that it is a #10 drill bit used to opening up the system 1 coil stop mounting holes to work on a system 3 game.
And to remind anyone doing this to readjust the EOS switches to 1/8 inch after installation.

#1190 1 year ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

System 1 coil stops are #A-17908

When I searched for Gottlieb System 1 coil stops on Pinball Resource page, this is not the correct number.

Steve Young lists the Sys 1 coil stops as A-18265. He provides a substitute coil stop listed as A18702.

Where do you see the Sys 1 coil stops listed as A-17908?

#1191 1 year ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

Verified today that it is a #10 drill bit used to opening up the system 1 coil stop mounting holes to work on a system 3 game.
And to remind anyone doing this to readjust the EOS switches to 1/8 inch after installation.

Someone stated in a previous post to just ask for the "special" stops for this game. My post was an attempt to let anyone else searching for a solution to this flipper modification know there is no such thing. Ask for the system one flipper stops.

I also posted those stops will not fit as is without modification . Some people might not have access to the tools to modify the stops.

As you say they can fit with modification. Steve said the system 1 and 3 stops are the same gauge steel. He points out the stops are silver and not black like those on Stargate. Doesn't matter to me, nobody looks under the field anyway. I'm interested in improving the feel of the game.

He did say a third hole will need to be drilled as there is only two on the system one stops. I would think that is a matter of preference. Two might be sufficient.

Again just sharing what Steve thought was important to note about doing this conversion.

Thanks for making myself and others aware of this modification.

#1192 1 year ago
Quoted from RTS:

When I searched for Gottlieb System 1 coil stops on Pinball Resource page, this is not the correct number.
Steve Young lists the Sys 1 coil stops as A-18265. He provides a substitute coil stop listed as A18702.
Where do you see the Sys 1 coil stops listed as A-17908?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17908G

#1193 1 year ago
Quoted from RTS:

When I searched for Gottlieb System 1 coil stops on Pinball Resource page, this is not the correct number.
Steve Young lists the Sys 1 coil stops as A-18265. He provides a substitute coil stop listed as A18702.
Where do you see the Sys 1 coil stops listed as A-17908?

Or from Pinball Resource
Edit: You are looking at regular coil stops. Not Flipper coil stops. That's why you're getting the wrong part number.
pasted_image (resized).png

#1194 1 year ago
Quoted from Orbian:

Someone stated in a previous post to just ask for the "special" stops for this game. My post was an attempt to let anyone else searching for a solution to this flipper modification know there is no such thing. Ask for the system one flipper stops.

Correct. @rts posted a misinforming post linked to a 4 year old post about swapping the complete flipper mechs over to Williams mechs. With the note of seeing post #10 made by CFH mentioning about buying the custom coil stops. Post #10 was also a misinformed post since Steve only made a small batch of these many, many years ago and will not make any more. I asked Steve about it in the late 2000's when I started doing the flipper upgrade back then. Funny thing is. CFH is Clay. He is the one that got Steve to make them back then. He also states in his "Clays Guide" or now under Pinball repair.com that Steve will not make any more. And it was stated by Steve to just drill out the mounting holes.

Quoted from Orbian:

I also posted those stops will not fit as is without modification .

Reread your old post. This is not what you said or stated from Steve. You left out the part that Steve said they WILL work with simple modification. Meaning drilling out the mounting holes.

Quoted from Orbian:

As for the System one stops. He said they don't work! They look like they will but they won't. So unless someone wants to make a modified part to sell on their own, we're stuck using the original System 3 style stops.

I'm simply pointing out that this statement is misleading since you failed to mention the fact that the system 1 coil stops will work with simple modification. So you are not stuck with system 3 coil stops.

#1195 1 year ago

Ok lets try this again.
For anyone else that wants to upgrade the feel of your flippers on any system 3 game to get rid of supper long flipper travel and make the game (IMHO) play so much better. Please see "Repairing Gottlieb System 3 Electronic
Pinball Games from 1989 to 1996" section 2n. "Flipper Rebuilds" at http://www.pinrepair.com/sys3/index.htm

1 week later
#1196 1 year ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

I'm simply pointing out that this statement is misleading since you failed to mention the fact that the system 1 coil stops will work with simple modification. So you are not stuck with system 3 coil stops.

I decided to try out the System 1 coil stop A-17908.

I was able to attach it without drilling or any other physical modification at all. That part was easy.

I removed the original coil stop held by two screws each. Then removed 2 of the bottom screws holding the assembly base plate, (still held by 3 top screws and one bottom screw.) I attached the new coil stop into the side and center screw holes so that the metal stop lined up perfectly. The flipper now has reduced movement, although I did have to adjust the resting position of the flipper to a lower level afterwards.

You can no longer automatically catch a rolling ball by holding up the flipper. But the problem now is that the lower left flipper doesn't have the strength of the full movement to make the upper right ramp. (I did not change the upper flipper coil stop.) I am going to rebuild the lower left flipper to see if that helps.

The first pic shows the original coil stop with the pencil pointing at the resting impact point. The second pic shows the sys 1 coil stop at the resting position, where you can see the protruding metal stub that shortens the movement.

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#1197 1 year ago

duplicate

#1198 1 year ago

Shout-out to harbngr for the playfield scan a couple months back. Just about ready for final coats of clear.

Before and after.

A previous owner had pulled the mylar and shredded the whole middle area.

It's not perfect but much more presentable now.

IMG_20190807_160305205 (resized).jpgIMG_20190807_225820266 (resized).jpg
#1199 1 year ago
Quoted from RTS:

I decided to try out the System 1 coil stop A-17908.
I was able to attach it without drilling or any other physical modification at all. That part was easy.
I removed the original coil stop held by two screws each. Then removed 2 of the bottom screws holding the assembly base plate, (still held by 3 top screws and one bottom screw.) I attached the new coil stop into the side and center screw holes so that the metal stop lined up perfectly. The flipper now has reduced movement, although I did have to adjust the resting position of the flipper to a lower level afterwards.
You can no longer automatically catch a rolling ball by holding up the flipper. But the problem now is that the lower left flipper doesn't have the strength of the full movement to make the upper right ramp. (I did not change the upper flipper coil stop.) I am going to rebuild the lower left flipper to see if that helps.
The first pic shows the original coil stop with the pencil pointing at the resting impact point. The second pic shows the sys 1 coil stop at the resting position, where you can see the protruding metal stub that shortens the movement.[quoted image][quoted image]

rts I'll hate to break it to you but,,,, The coil stop on the wrong end of the coil plate. The coil stop goes behind the coil. The slug is inside of the coil sleave.
Function of coil stop is for the back end of the coil shaft to hit the slug when firing the flipper. Need to change it around.

#1200 1 year ago

Coil stop goes on this end of coil.

36DDE119-F686-4FE5-A85C-B5EB6A9AEFC2 (resized).jpeg
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