Yeah, i was more referring to the fact it was already secured in the back, and it wasn't a great fit. I had to force the ramp down flush with the PF. The screws held it (wasn't sure if they would). Then hopefully the ramp flap is also holding it down.

From my research, the 2 black supports are correct for the rear. 2 silver on the left ramp.

So I'm tearing my playfield down, quick question. There's a rubber in near the upper right VUK, and when I got to this point, the rubber was *not* around the post here, which seemed odd.

image_(resized).jpeg

Is it supposed to be around the red post? Also, I put a black rubber in place of the white one originally there, because I was having issues with the ball bouncing out of that shot and I figured a harder rubber might do the trick.

Edit: Also just noticed this... The plastic on the right underneath the skill shot ramp is being pushed up by a post... This just doesn't seem right, plus some of the artwork has been scratched off from underneath by the post.

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

Is that normal?

once you put the screws in it should tie down, and the flap with cover it.

Yes the rear right rubber is suppose to be around the siamese post (white/clear) and the red post. It's a 1" rubber.
I just did the same, put black there because i had issues with it bouncing out a lot (I had clear silicon everywhere, but it's all black now).

Hey, I'm having some issues with my Stargate. Mainly, with it resetting and now... Not starting at all. I think it might have something to do with one of the three fuse holders on the game. Two on the power box, and one on the transformer, located behind the fuse rack. (Is that what it's called?)

Anyways, I was wondering if any one here could take a picture of these fuse holders, with and without the fuses please. On my Stargate, the left fuse on the power box is not protruding like the other two, and I'm trying to figure out if that's normal or not. Thanks for any help!

My lower right flipper keeps retriggering once the flipper button is pushed , rebuilt the flipper ( coil , switches ) everything , still does it , replaced the flipper sponsor board also . any suggestions ?

Any news on the Pinsound front with support for Stargate

I could be wrong, but I don't think Gottlieb will be supported.

I read once they were trying for SG but that was almost a year ago and nothing since.

I've been having this same problem for a while now, after I cleaned and waxed the game. Happens about half the time I make a good shot to the sarcophagus. Really frustrating since I fixed the original issue I had with the ball going all the way back and then bouncing out of this shot. The only explanation I can think of is that maybe the ball is bouncing into the air a little bit as it passes over the drop target. Anyone have any idea of how to prevent this?

I have just brought a load of parts from a parted Stargate. I was sorting through them to see what was worth keeping. Before I throw the bits I don't want away, has anyone got any use for ramps, wireforms etc? They are not in fantastic condition but I don't want anything for them, just the shipping.

If you need anything PM me and I will see if I have it.

Just picked up a nasty example of Stargate. Not exactly a red carpet welcome to the club but fixing it is half the fun, right? RIGHT? Ummm.

Having an oddball behavior where when the ball is kicked up out of the Sarcophagus (right orbit shot), it follows the habitrails around to the lower left and then just drains. I'm sure the kickback is supposed to be on in this circumstance, and that there's probably an opto that isn't working that triggers the kickback. Does that sound correct?

Also I had to fix that right lane drop target because it was sitting up above the playfield level when down, causing a slight bounce which would results in rejects from the guide cover a couple inches back in the lane. Looking at it underneath, there is no adjustment (like on Williams games) to change the height of that drop target. So I backed out the 3 mounting screws and put washers under each corner and snugged it back. Voila! Now the target is level and allows smooth transitions through the orbit.

Also had a bad smell coming from the game and discovered the coil for the right Horus (?) guard was getting super hot. Had to adjust the EOS switch as I assumed that it must have been staying on full power when it was raised. That seems to have done the trick.

And a few other minor fixes like snugging the coil bracket for the back left VUK, as it was inconsistent getting the ball out. Now it's perfect. And the coin door was missing the top switch which killed Tournament mode and thereby wouldn't allow Free Play. Krazy. Many fuses were wrongly sized (causing me to melt one coil with a mis-adjusted EOS switch when I changed to the fat coil stops). Shooter lane actuator broke so I soldered it back together. Dirt was embedded from let's say 21 years of use. And of course lots of bulbs were bad. But just needed a *little* TLC. Still a crappy pf but oh well.

Putting in some Pioneer 4" speakers in the back. That paper tweeter is murder on the ears! BEEP!!!!!

There is a little diverter that opens up to let the ball go under the apron instead of down to the drain. Check that fuse/solenoid.

Welcome to the club, I've downsized and Stargate is the only game I have right now. I really enjoy it.

Thanks, I hope it's fun once it's working!

So it's the left opto that's the problem. I measured voltage at the terminals and one of them is 250mV and the other is 0.6mV. Doesn't sound right. The upper right opto boards measure 130mV and 10mV. I found the opto boad under the pf and the LED for the left opto is always on, whereas the LED for the right opto only turns red when I block the signal. Maybe something on the board? I don't have the schematics so I'm not sure what to check. The opto board *looks* okay. Nothing appears broken or burnt. I verified connectivity from the 4-pin molex connector just under the pf up to the opto boards and they all check out. Yargh.

EDIT: The tx opto is reading 0.6V not 0.6mV, so 600mV. The auto-scale threw me off.

I looked at good ole rgp for help and I read where you can test the receiver opto with a bright flashlight. That test passes. And the transmitter never shows up on my camera so I'll just assume that's the source of the problem. I had some tx/rx led pairs from Radio Shack but they don't seem to work.

Ah, that sounds like it should fix my issue as well. Thanks for sharing!

If anyone has a spare extra playfield I'm interested in buying it, even if it's worn. Thanks

I think I have one in the stack of spares somewhere. Have any pfs to trade?

I've got no other playfields unfortunately, don't do many restorations.

Hey everyone! I decided to get my first pinball machine a few months ago and got a project Stargate. It's been a challenge but I've learned a lot. I'd say I'm 50% of the way there.

I ordered some replacement EOS switches from Marco and they appear different. Are these technically the same? (See picture)

Also, I am missing the auto shooter lane kicker that launches the balls for multiball. The solenoid is there, but I'm missing the part that screws into the playfield to mount the kicker and the kicker itself. Does anyone have one available?

Thanks!

image (resized).jpg

Yes. The size of the capacitor is simply different. It won't effect anything.

Pbresource.com may have them. They are pretty much the go-to place for all things Gottlieb.

I thought the problem was the transmitter but a new one didn't fix it. Then I realized I had already seen the problem but ignored it--a missing 120 Ohm 5W resistor on the quad-opto board. Silly me I figured it wasn't populated because the game only needed 3, but upon closer inspection, I saw where the pin fragments were soldered into the board. Unfortunately no missing resistor in the cab so ebay it is. Hope to get this puppy going next week.

Also, Pioneer 4" speakers work great in System 3 games (did Waterworld as well). The tweeter section fits nicely into the hole cutout for the paper tweeter, then you've still got one hole that sort of works (at an angle) for a mounting screw. The other speaker is a 4" exact match. Can't say the fidelity has improved but it's more balanced so you don't have the over powering high frequencies.

Okay, I have one more problem I could use some help with. After I took apart and cleaned the game, the right ramp became significantly harder to hit. Also, it seems to be easier during the first 5-10 minutes of play, but maybe that's just me. I'm just wondering if it has to do with the way the ramp was re-installed onto the playfield, or if it has to do with my flippers not being strong enough. Here's what I know:

-Often times the ball makes it up to the top curve on the ramp, seemingly far enough to make it, but then loses all momentum and starts heading back down.
-I just changed the left flipper button switch because the disk capacitor was broken off. When I went to replace I also realized the switch had been completely burned through! Can't believe the flipper was functioning at all. Anyways, the new switch didn't seem to improve anything.
-I was adjusting the left flipper EOS switch in hopes that making it open later would allow it to be stronger a few moments longer. I turned on the machine and tested it to make sure I didn't make it too close, and noticed the EOS switch sparks pretty brightly when it opens.
-I put brand new flipper plastics on right after putting everything back together.
-I waxed the whole playfield and the ramps.
-I haven't adjusted the flipper angle since when I first got the machine.

Here are some pics as well:
IMG_20160918_223505960 (resized).jpgIMG_20160918_223515700 (resized).jpgIMG_20160918_223110150 (resized).jpgIMG_20160918_223128537 (resized).jpg

So, as usual, thanks for any help!

Haven't looked at my flippers for a while. Think in these pics spring collar is missing. These machines use these at the link to hold spring off the mechanism.

Sounds like an EOS switch problem. Put your multimeter in continuity check and probe the white wire connections, either at the switch or at the coil. Now while you're somehow holding those probes with one hand, move the flipper bat up until the beep stops. I've had the switch look closed but it was really open so the coil is just using hold power. If there is a problem with the switch then the contacts might need to be cleaned.

And yes those suckers spark like crazy. Just normal for these flippers.

Are there any good ramp repair places for the left ramp these days? Need to get that repaired and probably replate everything at the same time.

I had my DESW ramp TIG welded locally and it was about $60. Probably a similar repair for the left ramp. Mine needs fixed as well, plus a wireform needs a spot weld.

I had both of mine TIG welded and dropped a post on each to help prevent it from ever happening again.

Okay, so I think I've *finally* found a solution for keeping a full power plunge from bouncing back and earning a skill shot. I took some of the stick on foam I had, and put some of it on the *sides* of the ramp, above the hole. Two layers on the left (which makes it about as thick as the pad already on the ramp) and a shorter, one layer on the right. (Shorter in order to prevent a ball possibly getting stuck halfway in the hole and wedged between the pads) Full plunges have been consistently going through the hole now and I couldn't be happier to have finally fixed this!

I've also been messing with the flippers, trying to see if I can make them a bit stronger. First I tried raising the flipper angle a little, but uh, it was clearly too much... I was able to *backhand* the right ramp, from a cradle! I've also filed the EOS switches on the flippers, so I'm hoping once I get the flippers properly adjusted again the ramp will be easier.

In regards to making the flippers a bit stronger, my Stargate has the orange A-29876 coils which the previous owner installed. He said it gave it more power to make the steep ramp shots. I just double checked, and I have 3 of these orange coils installed on all 3 flippers in my game and have never had a power/strengh issue hitting the ramps. In the manual, the game comes with the red A-25959 coils by default for the flippers. So, you could install the orange coils if you want.

Hope this helps.

I add a Stargate on the skill-shot ramp. Did it with Fimo...need some Led inside but it look good.
Have fun

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Impressive! I may have to make a little Stargate like that for mine. I wonder if the detail is too small for a 3D printer...

Hey everyone. Anyone have a spare shooter lane kicker that launches the ball during multiball? I need at least the arm (#31296) since PBR sold out and that part, but I wouldn't mind a full assembly.

If yours is broken, try taking it to a welder. Just be sure to ask to see an example of their work first.

I appreciate your replies ForceFlow.

I wish it was that simple. I bought my Stargate as a parts machine and am fixing it up. I'm almost ready to shop it out, but this is the last piece that I can't find at the usual online resources or PBR. Steve recommended trying to modify a stern one to work, but he hadn't compared the specs to see if it worked.

Worst case I can buy a stern one and have my grandpa weld on new pivot arms since they're on the opposite side.

Hi Guys, I want to replace the vinyl to the right outside the shooter lane because there a fold in it and would like to know how? Also want to sand down the black inside walls and repaint as they look bad, specific paint? Any advice would be great thanks

If someone was to make these they would sell. Nice work looks great.

Hi Stargaters,
I just bought a Stargate in very good conditions from Chad in the LA area. It will be arriving in all it's glory on Wednesday. It's a straight machine, doesn't appear to have any LED's, mods or upgrades. So, is there anything that should be check right away before I do something I would regret? Is there any ground issues with this version of The Gottlieb boards?
Having read though the previous posts, I am interested in ridding the world of "shoot the pyramid" so, if anyone can help with the eprom's send me a PM and I do my part to banish this phrase from the Stargate universe.
I'll give the resistors and other components a thorough going over once I get the legs under it. Looking forward to contributing to the conversation. I have a friend with a 3d printer, how much beer will it take to get him to make a star gate?

Hello Brent
Yes there some ground issues with System 3 ...that can burn transistor on A3 relay board. To solves it you have to shunt all white wires (ground wires) at the top-left of the transformator...can see pictures on pinrepair.com
If you want to install Led you better buy unpolyrised ones because those who are soldered at position 2 and 3 after the plug will not work (pos 1 is the nearest of plug)
On mine I've changed all bulbs by Led without having any problem.
Good luck

Hey, anyone know how to adjust the Glidercraft? Mine isn't centered properly (Goes much further left than righ, and doesn't pull in/out centered), so I thought I'd take a look at it. I found what looked to be a screw (like ewhat you use to adjust flippers) on the bracket holding the Glidercraft. Loosening it allowed me to move it freely, but whenever I tighten it it seems to return to it's original position. (In fact, it won't even trigger the Glidercraft right switch [Which appears to have been bent upward by a previous owner so the Glidercraft bracket could trigger it, even though it doesn't go as far right as it should] anymore)

Is there another screw I need to loosen on the other side? Should I take the time to remove the entire assembly from the game? Obviously this is a pretty minor issue, but it's just so frustrating because it seems so simple, yet I've spent hours messing with it and I've only gone backwards...

Any interest in a bumper mod ? Programmed to run 14 different patterns based on a target hit . going to do a low production 50 units for around 75$ here is attract mod

I need to get my left ramp welded. Front left has two broken tabs. Is the ramp made of steel or stainless? Were these ramps plated bronze after? Thanks!

Hey, did anyone know you can access a full sound test by holding the operator button while powering on the machine? You can play all the music and all the sound effects (Including a couple of unused ones, I believe). Also, if you go into the 20's and repeatedly start the music there, you can get it to repeat at higher and higher pitches! Basically, it allows you to hear the glitchy music (Like when you let Quartz Trade play for a long time) really easily!

Hold both flipper buttons in before you launch the ball, and you won't hear "Shoot the Pyramid" or "Up the Middle" for that game. If playing multiplayer, each person has to do it to cancel the call outs for their game.

Hi Stargaters,
I had to replace the switch in the right upper flipper recently. Before I replaced it I had no problems making the left ramp, now it doesn't seem to have enough power to get the ball all the way up. Could the issue be with the capacitor?

The cap just supresses the spark. It's more likely that the EOS switch is not adjusted quite right.

The EOS switch should only be activated at the last possible second and only have a 1/8" gap when opened.

Hey guys, wondering if anyone has experienced the glider not coming out during gameplay but you can hear the motor running when activated?

I have replaced the 2 switches (motor stop and motor right) and in test mode when i leave the glider extended and to the left, I power off and turn it on and press play and the glider moves left and right and retracts back into the pyramid, but won't come out during gameplay.

Thoughts, on what I can try next?

How far left and right does your glider move? If it has limited range because it is sitting too low on the motor shaft, it can't activate the side to side switch. This switch must activate or the glider won't come out.

That may not be your issue. That's just what happened to me, and it took me forever to figure out.

My two misconceptions were that the left-right switch had nothing to do with it extending, and that the glider cans be adjusted to sit higher on the motor shaft.

Joined the club! This is my favorite pin ever, so much fun!

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The glidercraft on mine has required constant tweaking to keep it working. The first problem I had was it not coming out and the problem was the lower microswitch out of a adjustment. I should have just replaced it right away since I'm again having problems with it and now need a new switch since its moving but not actually contacting the switch. Just a few days ago it wouldn't stop coming out and that was a broken wire on the upper switch. And after fixing the wire I still had to go into test mode and manually put the glider back in place so it knew where it was and would work properly.
There is kind of a procedure of testing switches and going back and forth in test modes manually moving it back in place that seems to work for me when it gets all wonky.