No idea. Not sure if it would be worth it to only have one trigger point for the shaker effect.

Wouldn't you also need a cabinet node board?

You'd probably also need to tune it way down due to the lighter build of the Pin.

Got the comic version set up, and looks like the rd2 multiball sensor is now optical, and doesnt always register when playing. Testing the switch always works. Gunna dust the playfield again and hopefully that works.

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Dusting didnt work, most recent switch test snd not responding. Gunna try and clean to see if that solves. Looked up options, cleaning or readjusting look to be the only options

Hmmm I’d make sure the opto is aligned with the hole. Is it just one opto shooting up the switch slot hole?

Just one and it shoots from under the decal, receiver is under the playfield. I tried moving the transmitter and receiver and still nothing. Ball 2 lock works fine even after the adjustment attempts. I read that resoldering worked for some on other pins, but was hoping this would work out the box. Will call stern before going that far.

Mine gets flakey from time to time and the fix has been just tightening the post next to the ball 1 lock. My symptoms were both not registering the lock or getting phantom locks without a ball being captured.

Didn't solve it for me but appreciate the tip all the same! It was a smidge loose, so good to tighten it for sure. The transmitters and receivers are housed in plastic cut outs, so the amount of adjusting i can do is minimal. I haven't cleaned with alcahol yet, but with how new it is id be surprised if it did anything. Emailing stern as everything is under warranty, just hoping for some progress before the holidays are over.

you'd be surprised how much saw dust and dust is in the game after its boxed up. I would suggesting qtip and alcohol to clean both transmit and receive for the opto's. ALso in test can you use your finger to trigger them?

Have tested with both ball and finger, and ball lock 2 recognizes but not ball lock 1. Did try 91% to clean but no improvement. Flying blind as its my first pin, but i checked active switches in diagnostics and ball lock 1 does show active. Tried looking online and not seeing anything regarding clearing switches

make sure there are no broken solder joints on the opto boards.

They look okay, doesnt look like its not attached at least. Ball lock has single wires and lock 2 has double

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Weird that they changed it. I figure optos are more expensive than micros. Last thing I'd check is continuity on those daisy chains. If one is broken, that could be your issue.

This is what I was going to say, looks like ball lock 1 is daised off lock 2. I would “resolder” all pads, and double check the “double” wire pads are all solid.

If you have a digital multimeter you could continuity test between them.

Are you saying if you have no balls in locks, you turn the game on, turn on diagnostics, that ball 1 lock shows active? Like it is being tripped without a ball? Or when you use a finger it works.

This exact problem happened on mine. I did all the troubleshooting. It was definitely a bad opto (but now I cant remember which). I contacted stern and they immediately sent a new one. Never had another problem.

Theres the switch test, then the active switch test, when i run the active switch test the ball 1 lock come up along with things like the flippers and trough. If i do a regular switch test, i can only activate ball lock 2, 1 is unresponsive. At some point i knew id have to do electrical work, just eith a nib hoping it wasnt the day i opened it up.

Im really hoping stern gets back to me and its this, crossing my fingers.

And thanks to everyone responding, so appreciate all the guidance!!

I got my Heavy Metal today.
It has the 4 holes in the cab for a shaker.
Is the shaker supported for this title?
HM is a re-theme.

Interesting. If you make sure the under pf optos are shining through the pf, and you take off the top side then hold it straight above the hole, does it not test in active? I’m wondering if it is either not aligned or if it is just a bad solder or opto causing it to be “on” all the time

I had this issue on a clients that I would tighten the post . Align the optos and it would play then after a while would not work or false hit . I ended up putting a little thick paper under the opto that was having the issue and tightened it back down to get the angle right because when it was tightend in the plastic holder it would angle it just enough to move it off to loose contact .

I had no idea of this pin. So it’s a retheme of the Star Wars home pin? Interesting.

As are a % of the SW comic art pins.

Is it a difference spike board? Otherwise I’d think I remember someone modding it into the game?

Heavy Metal has the same layout as SW Home, but its in a standard size cabinet with a real wood playfield, coin mechs, 3 speakers, and an addition node board so each sling and pop can fire independently.

Slingshots twin fire.
Left side target is one big target.

Damn it scores low.
Really needs a colour dmd.

If it has a coin door, then it must have a cabinet node board.

Oh it has a coin door,
Node board one.
The one with the clearly marked 'shaker motor' plug in the bottom right.

I know, cuz it blew out of my Aero when I plugged on my shaker.

Today, captive ball got a third ball in it.
There are only optos at the first 2 spots.
Game kept looking for the ball, would not release ball 4.
I was not in the room when it happened. I will have to really level this machine front to back.
I have it about half over the back line on the level.

I used a toothpick to see if it was aligned, and it did go through the hole if placed against the edge where the sensor is, and from the top side i could see the sensor of the opto from under the pf, so im sure alignment isnt the issue. Im assuming its a bad opto/solder, since everything i tried didn't work. Even wiggled the transmitter around while trying to trigger the lock and no matter how i moved it i could never get it to.

Tightened the post, and cut a business card so it was 2 layers, and put that inbetween the board and the plastic on the top side, but didn't help, but glad to rule another option out!

We just purchased the comic version before the holidays and it’s been pretty fun so far. Our Iron Maiden pro is still the house favorite but the ‘pin’ still gets a lot of play when people are over.

I purchased the comic version inner side art blades that were made for the Pro, Prem, etc. so for the Pin I had to modify a bit (holes for the bolts had to be cut in a diff location) but they look really nice. Also added flipper toppers.

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Added an external volume control.

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Gorgeous!!!! Wanted the art blades but was told they wouldn't fit. Didn't have to trim anything?

Thanks, no trimming on these I just had to cut new holes for the bolt locations on the pin. They come with precut circle areas where the bolts would be on the pro, I saved the pre cut circle pieces and then just stuck them back in their spots, if you look closely you will see a white circle on each blade, this is where the pre cut holes were at. I did not get my new holes cut perfect but live and learn

I see a few people have added an extra speaker to the top, anyone have any success with also adding a bottom speaker in the cab? If so is it easy?

Hi. I did add the bottom sub speaker, but when I plug it in to the main spike board I get no sound.
I went in to the setting to see if anything needs to be turn on or activated, and nothing.
I watched a video last year of George G saying they will have a full sound system upgrade for this pin in the future, a Stern accessory, but nothing as of today.
I did add the 2nd speakers to the speaker panel and speaker lights to mine.

I went with a Pinnovator subwoofer kit and an external powered sub.

Finally got ahold of Stern, they are sending me new optos for that pesky r2d2 ball lock. Did some research and it sound like circuit board soldering is on the riskier side. As this would be my first attempt in soldering, im thinking I might bow out and get a local repair tech to do the job. Again wanted to extend appreciations to all the advice ive gotten here though!

Looks like professional help is unavailable, or would cost much more then preferred. Original warnings for circuit board soldering were on a pinball repair site. But looking at tutorials im not seeing the same level of apprehension. And with the cost of the part, i could ruin 8 sets before hitting the cist of professional repair. Might have to try on my own anyways. Any first hand advice is totally appriciated

Ill be in Phoenix this weekend if you have the parts. It’s really easy though. I literally did this very repair. Just be quick about it so the heat doesn’t fry anything else.

Thanks for the offer and the tip! Part hasn't showed ip yet, but i did get reffered to a tech that could do it if i brought him the part. First thought was how am i gunna bring the pin to him, but I didn't even consider just bringing the part as it seemed very tucked in. But git some cutters and took it out, so ill be able yo get it fixed when the part comes in

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You’ve already done the hard part! The soldering is quick and easy. It will be a great exercise in soldering for you. Order a $10 kit from amazon and it will be here before your part!

I do wanna be able to take care of my pin, just was hesitant from all the warnings I saw. For this the method to use is tinning right? Thats what ive seen recommended.

Man, I heated the iron, touched it to the solder blob on the old part while pulling on the wire. It popped right out. There was already a solder blob on the new one. Put the wire down on it and put the iron on the wire until it liquifies and them pull the iron away. Done.

Practice on and off the old one a couple times. Then you can reattach to the new part.

Dang does sound easy, and good idea to practice on the old one! Thanks again!

Played this at the Great Escape on the showroom floor. We really enjoyed the game! Thinking of adding this to the collection as a the economic third machine. Can anyone speak to the code? Are there any modes or missions? I.e. do you build up actually destroy the Death Star, etc. similar to other versions?

It’s certainly scaled back code. Not super deep but there’s some building. I feel like it’s more like an 80s era code where it’s more about building multipliers and combining multiballs to get the highest score. Not like hobbit where I’m playing to kill Smaug and rarely pay attention to score.

Anyone have a mod for the right ramp cover?
I have to adjust mine on HM every few games.
I am thinking of a piece of sheet metal with an arm down to the nearby post to secure it.
I can't see those 2 plastic tabs lasting very long.

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Anyone know or heard if Stern has plans to continue making other titles of the ‘pin’ in the future?

They surely will. They've been making home games for a long time, starting with the Ironman Classic and the Batman Costco release. They are getting better and better. I kinda hate that they cost more than a Pro used to a few years back, but these things are going up, not down. I really think the Transformers/Avengers layout was decent and it would be cool in a real pin cab, not that plastic junky one they used back then.

Finally heard back after some follow up emails. The part is on back order, so going to be a hot minute before I can get it up and running. Asking them if they can just send it soldered to me given the time its taking, and the warranty covering both parts and labor. We will see, hoping to have it playable by summer at this point