(Topic ID: 247553)

Star Wars Home Edition Fan club.


By Honch

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 150 posts
  • 44 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by Gutterghoul
  • Topic is favorited by 13 Pinsiders

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There are 150 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
#101 44 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Hmm, I suppose you could connect a relay to a specific switch on the pf?

No idea. Not sure if it would be worth it to only have one trigger point for the shaker effect.

#102 44 days ago

Wouldn't you also need a cabinet node board?

#103 44 days ago

You'd probably also need to tune it way down due to the lighter build of the Pin.

1 week later
#104 31 days ago

Got the comic version set up, and looks like the rd2 multiball sensor is now optical, and doesnt always register when playing. Testing the switch always works. Gunna dust the playfield again and hopefully that works.

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#105 31 days ago
Quoted from Gutterghoul:

Got the comic version set up, and looks like the rd2 multiball sensor is now optical, and doesnt always register when playing. Testing the switch always works. Gunna dust the playfield again and hopefully that works.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Dusting didnt work, most recent switch test snd not responding. Gunna try and clean to see if that solves. Looked up options, cleaning or readjusting look to be the only options

#106 31 days ago

Hmmm I’d make sure the opto is aligned with the hole. Is it just one opto shooting up the switch slot hole?

#107 31 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Hmmm I’d make sure the opto is aligned with the hole. Is it just one opto shooting up the switch slot hole?

Just one and it shoots from under the decal, receiver is under the playfield. I tried moving the transmitter and receiver and still nothing. Ball 2 lock works fine even after the adjustment attempts. I read that resoldering worked for some on other pins, but was hoping this would work out the box. Will call stern before going that far.

#108 31 days ago
Quoted from Gutterghoul:

Got the comic version set up, and looks like the rd2 multiball sensor is now optical, and doesnt always register when playing. Testing the switch always works. Gunna dust the playfield again and hopefully that works.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Mine gets flakey from time to time and the fix has been just tightening the post next to the ball 1 lock. My symptoms were both not registering the lock or getting phantom locks without a ball being captured.

#109 30 days ago
Quoted from RebelGuitars:

Mine gets flakey from time to time and the fix has been just tightening the post next to the ball 1 lock. My symptoms were both not registering the lock or getting phantom locks without a ball being captured.

Didn't solve it for me but appreciate the tip all the same! It was a smidge loose, so good to tighten it for sure. The transmitters and receivers are housed in plastic cut outs, so the amount of adjusting i can do is minimal. I haven't cleaned with alcahol yet, but with how new it is id be surprised if it did anything. Emailing stern as everything is under warranty, just hoping for some progress before the holidays are over.

#110 30 days ago

you'd be surprised how much saw dust and dust is in the game after its boxed up. I would suggesting qtip and alcohol to clean both transmit and receive for the opto's. ALso in test can you use your finger to trigger them?

#111 29 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

you'd be surprised how much saw dust and dust is in the game after its boxed up. I would suggesting qtip and alcohol to clean both transmit and receive for the opto's. ALso in test can you use your finger to trigger them?

Have tested with both ball and finger, and ball lock 2 recognizes but not ball lock 1. Did try 91% to clean but no improvement. Flying blind as its my first pin, but i checked active switches in diagnostics and ball lock 1 does show active. Tried looking online and not seeing anything regarding clearing switches

#112 29 days ago
Quoted from Gutterghoul:

Have tested with both ball and finger, and ball lock 2 recognizes but not ball lock 1. Did try 91% to clean but no improvement. Flying blind as its my first pin, but i checked active switches in diagnostics and ball lock 1 does show active. Tried looking online and not seeing anything regarding clearing switches

make sure there are no broken solder joints on the opto boards.

#113 29 days ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

make sure there are no broken solder joints on the opto boards.

They look okay, doesnt look like its not attached at least. Ball lock has single wires and lock 2 has double

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#114 29 days ago
Quoted from Gutterghoul:

They look okay, doesnt look like its not attached at least. Ball lock has single wires and lock 2 has double
[quoted image][quoted image]

Weird that they changed it. I figure optos are more expensive than micros. Last thing I'd check is continuity on those daisy chains. If one is broken, that could be your issue.

#115 29 days ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Weird that they changed it. I figure optos are more expensive than micros. Last thing I'd check is continuity on those daisy chains. If one is broken, that could be your issue.

This is what I was going to say, looks like ball lock 1 is daised off lock 2. I would “resolder” all pads, and double check the “double” wire pads are all solid.

If you have a digital multimeter you could continuity test between them.

Quoted from Gutterghoul:

Have tested with both ball and finger, and ball lock 2 recognizes but not ball lock 1. Did try 91% to clean but no improvement. Flying blind as its my first pin, but i checked active switches in diagnostics and ball lock 1 does show active. Tried looking online and not seeing anything regarding clearing switches

Are you saying if you have no balls in locks, you turn the game on, turn on diagnostics, that ball 1 lock shows active? Like it is being tripped without a ball? Or when you use a finger it works.

#116 29 days ago

This exact problem happened on mine. I did all the troubleshooting. It was definitely a bad opto (but now I cant remember which). I contacted stern and they immediately sent a new one. Never had another problem.

#117 27 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

This is what I was going to say, looks like ball lock 1 is daised off lock 2. I would “resolder” all pads, and double check the “double” wire pads are all solid.
If you have a digital multimeter you could continuity test between them.

Are you saying if you have no balls in locks, you turn the game on, turn on diagnostics, that ball 1 lock shows active? Like it is being tripped without a ball? Or when you use a finger it works.

Theres the switch test, then the active switch test, when i run the active switch test the ball 1 lock come up along with things like the flippers and trough. If i do a regular switch test, i can only activate ball lock 2, 1 is unresponsive. At some point i knew id have to do electrical work, just eith a nib hoping it wasnt the day i opened it up.

Quoted from paynemic:

This exact problem happened on mine. I did all the troubleshooting. It was definitely a bad opto (but now I cant remember which). I contacted stern and they immediately sent a new one. Never had another problem.

Im really hoping stern gets back to me and its this, crossing my fingers.

And thanks to everyone responding, so appreciate all the guidance!!

#118 27 days ago

I got my Heavy Metal today.
It has the 4 holes in the cab for a shaker.
Is the shaker supported for this title?
HM is a re-theme.

#119 27 days ago
Quoted from Gutterghoul:

Theres the switch test, then the active switch test, when i run the active switch test the ball 1 lock come up along with things like the flippers and trough. If i do a regular switch test, i can only activate ball lock 2, 1 is unresponsive. At some point i knew id have to do electrical work, just eith a nib hoping it wasnt the day i opened it up.

Im really hoping stern gets back to me and its this, crossing my fingers.
And thanks to everyone responding, so appreciate all the guidance!!

Interesting. If you make sure the under pf optos are shining through the pf, and you take off the top side then hold it straight above the hole, does it not test in active? I’m wondering if it is either not aligned or if it is just a bad solder or opto causing it to be “on” all the time

#120 27 days ago

I had this issue on a clients that I would tighten the post . Align the optos and it would play then after a while would not work or false hit . I ended up putting a little thick paper under the opto that was having the issue and tightened it back down to get the angle right because when it was tightend in the plastic holder it would angle it just enough to move it off to loose contact .

#121 26 days ago
Quoted from BMHouze:

I got my Heavy Metal today.
It has the 4 holes in the cab for a shaker.
Is the shaker supported for this title?
HM is a re-theme.

I had no idea of this pin. So it’s a retheme of the Star Wars home pin? Interesting.

#122 26 days ago

As are a % of the SW comic art pins.

#123 26 days ago

Is it a difference spike board? Otherwise I’d think I remember someone modding it into the game?

#124 26 days ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I had no idea of this pin. So it’s a retheme of the Star Wars home pin? Interesting.

Heavy Metal has the same layout as SW Home, but its in a standard size cabinet with a real wood playfield, coin mechs, 3 speakers, and an addition node board so each sling and pop can fire independently.

#125 26 days ago

Slingshots twin fire.
Left side target is one big target.

Damn it scores low.
Really needs a colour dmd.

#126 26 days ago

If it has a coin door, then it must have a cabinet node board.

#127 26 days ago

Oh it has a coin door,
Node board one.
The one with the clearly marked 'shaker motor' plug in the bottom right.

I know, cuz it blew out of my Aero when I plugged on my shaker.

#128 26 days ago

Today, captive ball got a third ball in it.
There are only optos at the first 2 spots.
Game kept looking for the ball, would not release ball 4.
I was not in the room when it happened. I will have to really level this machine front to back.
I have it about half over the back line on the level.

#129 24 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Interesting. If you make sure the under pf optos are shining through the pf, and you take off the top side then hold it straight above the hole, does it not test in active? I’m wondering if it is either not aligned or if it is just a bad solder or opto causing it to be “on” all the time

I used a toothpick to see if it was aligned, and it did go through the hole if placed against the edge where the sensor is, and from the top side i could see the sensor of the opto from under the pf, so im sure alignment isnt the issue. Im assuming its a bad opto/solder, since everything i tried didn't work. Even wiggled the transmitter around while trying to trigger the lock and no matter how i moved it i could never get it to.

Quoted from Phatchit:

I had this issue on a clients that I would tighten the post . Align the optos and it would play then after a while would not work or false hit . I ended up putting a little thick paper under the opto that was having the issue and tightened it back down to get the angle right because when it was tightend in the plastic holder it would angle it just enough to move it off to loose contact .

Tightened the post, and cut a business card so it was 2 layers, and put that inbetween the board and the plastic on the top side, but didn't help, but glad to rule another option out!

#130 23 days ago

We just purchased the comic version before the holidays and it’s been pretty fun so far. Our Iron Maiden pro is still the house favorite but the ‘pin’ still gets a lot of play when people are over.

#131 22 days ago

I purchased the comic version inner side art blades that were made for the Pro, Prem, etc. so for the Pin I had to modify a bit (holes for the bolts had to be cut in a diff location) but they look really nice. Also added flipper toppers.

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#132 22 days ago

Added an external volume control.

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#133 22 days ago
Quoted from A248410:

I purchased the comic version inner side art blades that were made for the Pro, Prem, etc. so for the Pin I had to modify a bit (holes for the bolts had to be cut in a diff location) but they look really nice. Also added flipper toppers. [quoted image][quoted image]

Gorgeous!!!! Wanted the art blades but was told they wouldn't fit. Didn't have to trim anything?

#134 22 days ago

Thanks, no trimming on these I just had to cut new holes for the bolt locations on the pin. They come with precut circle areas where the bolts would be on the pro, I saved the pre cut circle pieces and then just stuck them back in their spots, if you look closely you will see a white circle on each blade, this is where the pre cut holes were at. I did not get my new holes cut perfect but live and learn

#135 22 days ago

I see a few people have added an extra speaker to the top, anyone have any success with also adding a bottom speaker in the cab? If so is it easy?

#136 21 days ago

Hi. I did add the bottom sub speaker, but when I plug it in to the main spike board I get no sound.
I went in to the setting to see if anything needs to be turn on or activated, and nothing.
I watched a video last year of George G saying they will have a full sound system upgrade for this pin in the future, a Stern accessory, but nothing as of today.
I did add the 2nd speakers to the speaker panel and speaker lights to mine.

#137 21 days ago
Quoted from A248410:

I see a few people have added an extra speaker to the top, anyone have any success with also adding a bottom speaker in the cab? If so is it easy?

I went with a Pinnovator subwoofer kit and an external powered sub.

#138 17 days ago

Finally got ahold of Stern, they are sending me new optos for that pesky r2d2 ball lock. Did some research and it sound like circuit board soldering is on the riskier side. As this would be my first attempt in soldering, im thinking I might bow out and get a local repair tech to do the job. Again wanted to extend appreciations to all the advice ive gotten here though!

Added 17 days ago:

Looks like professional help is unavailable, or would cost much more then preferred. Original warnings for circuit board soldering were on a pinball repair site. But looking at tutorials im not seeing the same level of apprehension. And with the cost of the part, i could ruin 8 sets before hitting the cist of professional repair. Might have to try on my own anyways. Any first hand advice is totally appriciated

#139 15 days ago
Quoted from Gutterghoul:

Finally got ahold of Stern, they are sending me new optos for that pesky r2d2 ball lock. Did some research and it sound like circuit board soldering is on the riskier side. As this would be my first attempt in soldering, im thinking I might bow out and get a local repair tech to do the job. Again wanted to extend appreciations to all the advice ive gotten here though!

Added yesterday: Looks like professional help is unavailable, or would cost much more then preferred. Original warnings for circuit board soldering were on a pinball repair site. But looking at tutorials im not seeing the same level of apprehension. And with the cost of the part, i could ruin 8 sets before hitting the cist of professional repair. Might have to try on my own anyways. Any first hand advice is totally appriciated

Ill be in Phoenix this weekend if you have the parts. It’s really easy though. I literally did this very repair. Just be quick about it so the heat doesn’t fry anything else.

#140 14 days ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Ill be in Phoenix this weekend if you have the parts. It’s really easy though. I literally did this very repair. Just be quick about it so the heat doesn’t fry anything else.

Thanks for the offer and the tip! Part hasn't showed ip yet, but i did get reffered to a tech that could do it if i brought him the part. First thought was how am i gunna bring the pin to him, but I didn't even consider just bringing the part as it seemed very tucked in. But git some cutters and took it out, so ill be able yo get it fixed when the part comes in

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#141 14 days ago

You’ve already done the hard part! The soldering is quick and easy. It will be a great exercise in soldering for you. Order a $10 kit from amazon and it will be here before your part!

#142 14 days ago
Quoted from paynemic:

You’ve already done the hard part! The soldering is quick and easy. It will be a great exercise in soldering for you. Order a $10 kit from amazon and it will be here before your part!

I do wanna be able to take care of my pin, just was hesitant from all the warnings I saw. For this the method to use is tinning right? Thats what ive seen recommended.

#143 13 days ago
Quoted from Gutterghoul:

I do wanna be able to take care of my pin, just was hesitant from all the warnings I saw. For this the method to use is tinning right? Thats what ive seen recommended.

Man, I heated the iron, touched it to the solder blob on the old part while pulling on the wire. It popped right out. There was already a solder blob on the new one. Put the wire down on it and put the iron on the wire until it liquifies and them pull the iron away. Done.

Practice on and off the old one a couple times. Then you can reattach to the new part.

#144 13 days ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Man, I heated the iron, touched it to the solder blob on the old part while pulling on the wire. It popped right out. There was already a solder blob on the new one. Put the wire down on it and put the iron on the wire until it liquifies and them pull the iron away. Done.
Practice on and off the old one a couple times. Then you can reattach to the new part.

Dang does sound easy, and good idea to practice on the old one! Thanks again!

#145 12 days ago

Played this at the Great Escape on the showroom floor. We really enjoyed the game! Thinking of adding this to the collection as a the economic third machine. Can anyone speak to the code? Are there any modes or missions? I.e. do you build up actually destroy the Death Star, etc. similar to other versions?

#146 12 days ago
Quoted from KC_Green:

Played this at the Great Escape on the showroom floor. We really enjoyed the game! Thinking of adding this to the collection as a the economic third machine. Can anyone speak to the code? Are there any modes or missions? I.e. do you build up actually destroy the Death Star, etc. similar to other versions?

It’s certainly scaled back code. Not super deep but there’s some building. I feel like it’s more like an 80s era code where it’s more about building multipliers and combining multiballs to get the highest score. Not like hobbit where I’m playing to kill Smaug and rarely pay attention to score.

#147 10 days ago

Anyone have a mod for the right ramp cover?
I have to adjust mine on HM every few games.
I am thinking of a piece of sheet metal with an arm down to the nearby post to secure it.
I can't see those 2 plastic tabs lasting very long.

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#148 10 days ago

Anyone know or heard if Stern has plans to continue making other titles of the ‘pin’ in the future?

#149 10 days ago
Quoted from A248410:

Anyone know or heard if Stern has plans to continue making other titles of the ‘pin’ in the future?

They surely will. They've been making home games for a long time, starting with the Ironman Classic and the Batman Costco release. They are getting better and better. I kinda hate that they cost more than a Pro used to a few years back, but these things are going up, not down. I really think the Transformers/Avengers layout was decent and it would be cool in a real pin cab, not that plastic junky one they used back then.

1 week later
#150 14 hours ago

Finally heard back after some follow up emails. The part is on back order, so going to be a hot minute before I can get it up and running. Asking them if they can just send it soldered to me given the time its taking, and the warranty covering both parts and labor. We will see, hoping to have it playable by summer at this point

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