One easy thing to try; Lift the table up. Turn the lights a little low and have the game test the coils...look for bright light coming from one or more coils. If one is grounding it could cause the flippers to be weak.

More than likely you have a shorted coil somewhere in the machine. The coils are linked together so if one fails, or diode fails the chain is broken making other things not work. Is it coils that are not working or is it lights as well? Believe it on not check all the fuses. As far as the weak flippers go check this to see if you can figure out the problem. http://www.pinrepair.com/de/index2.htm#flip0

here is an example:

On solid state flipper games (Robocop and later), if the flipper works but is very weak, the power side of the flipper circuit has failed. Check the fuses on the flipper board (there are 2 fuses for each flipper, one power fuse and one hold fuse). If the power fuse is blown and the hold fuse is working, this will make the flipper work but very very weak (since the flipper is operating at 7 volts). If replacing the power fuse and it blows immediately, replace the TIP36 transistor on the flipper board associated with that flipper. The TIP36 transistor is easily checked with a DMM, see the transistor section for more details). If a TIP36 has an internal short this will blow the power fuse immediately, allowing only the hold's TIP32 transistor to make the flipper move "up". Also check the S2800B Silicon Controlled Rectifiers.
Check the bridge and capacitor that supply voltage for the flipper coils. An open diode in the bridge rectifier that supplies power to the flippers can cause weak flippers. A fatigued or cracked solder joint on this bridge (or its associated capacitor) can do that too. This is rare, but can happen. This problem will affect BOTH flippers equally.

I have a DE Star Wars I am parting out. If you need anything PM me.

Which lights are inop; GI, flashers or inserts? Need to know all of them that are out that a bulb replacement didn't fix. Could be a problem with the switch matrix.

I would maybe start with reseating or replacing the game eprom if you things are going weird without a good explanation. It's essentially the program that loads into the CPU/MPU to run everything.

According to the schematics, the kickback (DE calls it Laserkick) is controlled by transistor Q1 on the PPB, which in turn is controlled by transistors Q15 and Q39 on the CPU board. Check all three of these to see if any of them are shorted and locking on the coil. Hope this helps.

Thanks for joining and replying stangbat. I've never owned a DE machine or that one and told him all I could give was general advice.

Please stick around and welcome.

Transistor testing is covered here:
http://www.pinrepair.com/de/index2.htm#trans

You use a multimeter on its diode test mode and test between the center leg and the outside legs. The type of transistor determines as to whether you attach the red or black lead to the center leg. Pinrepair details which way you hook it up for the different types.