If the diode tie back wire is off of the drop target coil, you likely blew up the new board again.

LTG : )

The gun motors run with the coin door open, yet the other solenoids won't. Is your coin door closed? If so, check the power cutoff switch by the hinge of the coin door. If that is OK, check the solenoid fuses.

Single drop target in the way back of the playfield. There are three wires tied together that go to a single lug (I think they're green and green/white but don't recall exactly). If one of these breaks loose but not the others, it'll take out all sorts of components.

Those are switch wire colors.

The OP is looking at the up coil wires. Three to one lug. Purple with a green stripe. Though the thin one looks more lavender and green stripe.

Best to remove them, solder to a single wire, and then solder the single wire to the lug. That way if it falls off the coil stops working, not blow stuff up. Small driver board, smokes a subway coil, etc.

LTG : )

Thanks, Lloyd. Agreed 100% - did it to mine already but couldn't recall the colors. Here's a link to this on PinWiki: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Auxiliary_8-Driver_Board_.28A-16100.29

Another example of how awesome you guys are on here, so much help. God Bless you, and hope one day to pass on knowledge as you do. Thumbs up !

Check the resistance of the subway diverter coils. At least one of them is driven by that 8-way driver and it is common for one to burn up if the game continually tries to load balls into the subway while in attract mode.

Parker

Your day will come. And when it does, please help.

This continues to make pinball great going forward.

LTG : )

Have you checked the optos by all three of the upkickers? How many balls do you have installed in the game? There should be 6 total,one pre-staged at each of the three upkickers and three in the trough. Also, check to see if the trough board optos are all working, particularly the jam opto.

You might change the title of your post to reflect 'Next Generation' as I thought you might be talking about the new Star Trek pin. Scared me!

I feel your pain... It's very frustrating when problems just keep piling up. I tend to break at least 1 other thing whenever I am fixing something else. (not always, but when it does happen, it feels that way)

PS : Sorry this post didn't have anything useful for you to try. Although, sometimes just stepping away for a bit and doing something else gets the juices flowing again and something might pop into your head.

F112: located top middle of the driver board. 7 amp slo-blo. Used for solenoid AC input voltage. If BR3 is bad, can cause this to blow.

F103: located top middle of the driver board. 3 amp slo-blo. Used for solenoids 25 to 28 which are the Borg flashers and one underneath the playfield. A shorted or locked-on coil (or flasher in this case) can cause this fuse to blow.