(Topic ID: 183869)

Star Trek TNG right Cannon slow


By gnokketto

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 25 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by gnokketto
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 2 years ago

Hi guys I have a problem on my ST TNG, the right cannon move slow in play but in test working fine...
Switch and opto working fine
Any suggestion ?

Thanks

#2 2 years ago

You've got a dirty shaft. There's a metal bushing that runs through the playfield and contains a shaft that's attached to the gun and makes it rotate. The bushing gets dirt inside it and makes the gun drag. Take your gun apart and clean the bushing and the shaft. And yes, the shaft does pull out through the top. If it's as gunked as the last one I did, it may take 20 minutes and a lot of swearing to pull it out.

#3 2 years ago

100% agree with Cadillac music as that the exact symptoms on my STNG and cleaning the shafts fixed the problem.

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from Cudaman:

cleaning the shafts fixed the problem

#5 2 years ago

Thanks man! this week clean the shafts ... strange that in tests mode go fast ...

#6 2 years ago

It changes speed when a ball is in the gun. It slows the motor down slightly. If it's all gunked up, this change is enough to slow the gun considerably. Put a ball in the gun during test mode and you'll see the same thing.

#7 2 years ago

You will want to clean both the shaft and the inside of the sleeve to remove all of the old geese. You should also reapply a small amount of geese to the shaft when you reassemble.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from CadillacMusic:

You've got a dirty shaft.

I'd be careful of the woman you choose to hang out with.

But seriously I had exact same issue and cleaning it fixed it.

#9 2 years ago

I have the same issue, and know of another Next Gen also doing the same thing. Always the right cannon too. I figured it was something way more complicated. Thanks guys

#10 2 years ago

Hey, it was the left on the last one I did. Both are susceptible. Also please put grease on your parts, not waterfowl.

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

You will want to clean both the shaft and the inside of the sleeve to remove all of the old geese. You should also reapply a small amount of geese to the shaft when you reassemble.

be sure to take out them geese!! LOL

#12 2 years ago

+1, had the same problem. It was the left for me! And yeah the test mode thing threw me off a bit, too.... but a good cleaning and it was good as new.

#13 2 years ago

Great thread. Can you do this work from the top of the playfield or do you have to remove the assembly underneath?

#14 2 years ago

This is one of the rare exceptions in pinball where it's okay to lubricate something.

Quoted from CadillacMusic:

Also please put grease on your parts,

#15 2 years ago

I had something similar on mine, in my case replacing the BR2 rectifier solved it on the power board. I think it was starved for power when the game was being played and lots of lights and solenoids were firing, whereas in test it was the only thing running, pretty much.

Just thought I'd mention that in case cleaning the shaft doesn't solve it for you.

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

be sure to take out them geese!! LOL

that's what I get for using swipe on my tablet

#17 2 years ago

Would this be the same procedure for the cannon in t2? Mine is a little slow.

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from Droptargets:

Would this be the same procedure for the cannon in t2? Mine is a little slow.

Yes, I do believe they are basically the same mech.

#19 2 years ago

Sounds like I have 3 cannons that need some cleaning

#20 2 years ago

How is this done? Does anyone have a video of how to take apart. If not, could someone make one? I tried but doesn't seem to want to come off. I afraid of pulling too hard and breaking something.

#21 2 years ago

No video but pics...

step 1: disconnect the linage by removing screw and washer connecting it to the switch plate.

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step 2: Pull it out!

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OPTIONAL STEPS:

step 3: clean old grease off parts then toss in your tumbler for 1-5 days depending on how nasty it is.

3 (resized).jpg

step 4: clean with alcohol to remove tumbler media residue.

#22 2 years ago

Awesome! Wow! It is very hard to get out. Any advice on pulling it out? Still afraid I may break something. Thanks so much for pic's.

#23 2 years ago

Just twist while you pull, its a snug fit even without old hard grease in it, just make sure the square end on the bottom of the shaft is out of the switch plate before you twist it.

I am assuming you have already removed the cannon and wiring harness...

#24 2 years ago

This is my same problem..

#25 2 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I had something similar on mine, in my case replacing the BR2 rectifier solved it on the power board. I think it was starved for power when the game was being played and lots of lights and solenoids were firing, whereas in test it was the only thing running, pretty much.
Just thought I'd mention that in case cleaning the shaft doesn't solve it for you.

Thanks! I try...

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