The game isn't able to detect flashers that are out.

Don't worry about this. Not a problem.

Diagnosing flasher issues is exactly like diagnosing coil issues.

See: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Solenoid.2C_Flasher.2C_and_Motor_problems

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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
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bursits....you need to slow down, and review the reading that I linked above.
At least you found F111 blown.
What doesn't make sense now is that LED5 is lit. If F111 is blown, LED5 will be out.

I can say with virtual certainty, that BR4 is shorted. Your first course of action is to verify/refute this.
See: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#LEDs_and_test_points_on_WPC-089_Power.2FDriver_Boards

If you have a DMM, testing the bridge is simple.
See: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier

Test the bridge. Report back.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
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There probably is a way...but it would take some research. It's just easier to remove the board. You're going to need it out to change the bridge anyway.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
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If your meter shows zero when there is a short, then yes. That is what that means.

I'd say replace and then be impressed by your new repair expertise.

If you are going to replace it yourself, cut the old bridge off with side cutters.
Heat each leg individually. Just as the solder melts enough, pull the old leg out gently.
Clean out the holes using your favorite method.
Install the new bridge about 1/2" off the PCB surface to allow good air flow.
A 35A/400V bridge is the standard part.

If you want it professionally repaired, and the rest of the board checked out, LMK. I can take care of that.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
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You're right...that would be inviting more problems.

Nope...not in this case. And, those are much harder to replace without damaging the board.

Check out this link: http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/

My pleasure bursits!
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
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Did you test for flash lamp power on the driver board when it was in the game?
Are you sure that you reconnected every connector once completed?
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
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http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
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If your soldering device is slender enough, you should solder both sides of the bridge connections to the board.
Since F111 is no longer blowing, LED 5 is not lit, and you still don't have flasher power, the only thing left is the work done on the bridge.
Can you post a couple of pics?
Back side of board focused closeup on the bridge you replaced.
Side shot showing as best you can under the bridge.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Nice! Thanks bursits!
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info