Me and my father have recently purchased a stng pinball and have been tring to iron out some of its common problems but havent had any luck yet.

Currently we are trying to fix the common issue of ball location at the games startup. We have narrowed it down to the optos 36 46 and 66 are not triggering but are emitting. In the switch test menu they are all labled as closed and randomly blink open together.

We asumed this meant there was a short in the white blue wire and via cheaking continuity have traced it back to the main board.

Now we are not really sure what needs to be cheaked but we did see what looked like some sketchy soldering on the board. We removed the solder but are not realy sure what the person who did the soldering was doing or what it was suposed to look like.

14966185803991089260144 (resized).jpg
1496618603476389263388 (resized).jpg

Just as an update we tried to solder new resistors into those slots and the board wouldn't take solder. We did the best we could bit when we put it back in and alot more swithches wmt haywire and started flashing and the cannons couldn't find home which was a problem we had already fixed. We only messed with those resistors so we are assuming its just lack of contact with our soldering job.

We are probably just going to purchase an upgraded board considering we got tha machine for relatively cheap.

We actually own a twilight zome as well and are thinking about swapping the board just to see if it helps but we are not sure how risky its is, and sugestions or tips for swaping boards?

Yes that is battery corrosion its what did the initial dammage that the last owner tried to fix, we went ahead and hare having the two main boards looked at and repaired.

So we got our cpu board back and it turns out we have a short either still in the board or under the playfield that is damaging the board. We were cheaking the wires coming from the playfeild on the J207 board and noticed all the wires coming from the opto board (3,4,6) are hot at 12 volts. Is this normal?