(Topic ID: 152840)

Star Trek Saucer kick out base


By Jlescher19

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 26 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Lovef2k
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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Bracket_(resized).JPG

#1 3 years ago

Recently acquired a Bally 1978 Star Trek. Replaced the playfield an plastics, etc. Noticed that the eject hole base was missing. Now the question: There seems to be a particular shape of the eject hole base required for the saucer kick out hole that I can't match up. All of the bases I and others have are of a shape that does not conform to this set up. The trace on the underside of the kick out mechanism coil plate is of an oval shape with only two screws to go into the base. All of the bases I have are square with four mounting holes - no way to match this kind up. Any ideas out there? Thanks

#2 3 years ago
#3 3 years ago

Do you mean this piece?? See photo in this thread?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/77-bally-saucer-problem#post-22940

Bally has two of these style ejects. One is left... the other is right... it matters.

I also posted a Bally Parts guide from this year.

Check out page 59.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxwaW5iYWxsZmF6fGd4OjQ0MmVmMjRiYzA2NTE4NmQ

I'm not sure how this link will post, so here's a link to my webpage... it's on the very bottom.
https://sites.google.com/site/pinballfaz/

faz

#4 3 years ago

Doesn't look like I need a plastic eject hole plastic. The two pointed metal tabs are broken off on mine and have been replaced by two screws. Functional - maybe - won't know until I get the machine back together. Probably will try to find a new kicker assembly or at least a mounting bracket. Thank you. John

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from Jlescher19:

Doesn't look like I need a plastic eject hole plastic. The two pointed metal tabs are broken off on mine and have been replaced by two screws. Functional - maybe - won't know until I get the machine back together. Probably will try to find a new kicker assembly or at least a mounting bracket. Thank you. John

Post a pic or 2 of the saucer mech. I may have some spares. I just completed a Star Trek resto and have spare parts. There is a left and a right hand version of these kickers FYI.

#6 3 years ago

The two pointed tabs are part of the mounting bracket on page 59. The wings are attached from the underside and tack welded. it's all part of the component. You can't replace just the wings. They don't do anything, it's just a ball guide to get the ball to set on the switch (like your screws).

This is not a plastic part. It's all metal. If you look at the photo I posted in 2011 you can see the image of the back of the bracket. The wings are missing from it, but you can see the dot where the tack weld held them in place.

faz

Bracket_(resized).JPG

#7 3 years ago

The spot weld must have broken off and the tabs are lost? I'll take a look at my parts and get back tomorrow.

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

The spot weld must have broken off and the tabs are lost? I'll take a look at my parts and get back tomorrow.

Back when I got my game I found the fins on the bottom of the game. Without a way to weld it on, I picked up a new bracket from PBR.... again, if you buy a replacement there's a left and a right one of these... make sure you get the correct one.
faz

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Back when I got my game I found the fins on the bottom of the game. Without a way to weld it on, I picked up a new bracket from PBR.... again, if you buy a replacement there's a left and a right one of these... make sure you get the correct one.
faz

Yes I do know about the left and right differences, I found that out when I did my ST swap. So Steve still has these in stock?

#10 3 years ago

If the fin piece fell off, it may be possible that they were attached with some type of adhesive? I never really took a good look at these. I have had several of these replated and never had one fall apart yet.

#11 3 years ago

You may be able to use an epoxy. All it does is guide a ball to a button switch. Rarely get's a hard shot being recessed. But clearly some shock is strong enough to break the weld.

Typically (and I've only seen this condition less than 10X) the piece is missing.... so nothing to bond.
If you have the piece try it out.

As for "Steve still has these in stock".... nobody knows (perhaps even Steve ) Call and roll the dice. He did have this a few years ago.
faz

#12 3 years ago

Off topic but curious Lovef2k, where do you get these plated and what type of plate? Nickel or zinc? I've completely disassembled mine off a Power Play and polished up to mirror, would like to keep it that way because it looks really cool.

#13 3 years ago

Thanks to all of you for helping. Trying to identify left and right handed unit, I find the match with the picture in the parts catalog and the only thing I can do is identify the part by the part number. The mounting bracket is A-643-11 and the Kicker Assembly is AS-428-44. Whether that's left or right from the top or the bottom, is anybody's guess. I will try Steve for the part. Curious faz, is there a way to print out the ST section of your catalog, I don't seem to be able to do that with the PDF format.
John

#14 3 years ago

Take off the part. Have it in your hand when you call Steve. He'll ask you the question that tells him 'left' / 'right'.

As far as the pdf. Each page is relative to the beginning. Cover is page 1.... and so on. So, print off pages x-y as per how they appear within the PDF... not the page numbers on the graphic stored within... right?

faz

#15 3 years ago

Faz, haven't figured out yet how to print off the PDF I am sure it will come to me eventually.
Anyway since you have restored ST before, how did you replace the little metal boots on the clear plastics? They seem to be press fit and no way to pull - replace. Your thought would be appreciated. Hey, my printer just sprung into action! Here com 'd manual! Thanks John

#16 3 years ago

I have not restored anything... just basic repairs, a few mods.

The "metal boots"... not sure what that might be. I seem to recall a few had a standoff built in... that?
I'll look tonight.

faz

#17 3 years ago

Yes, that sounds like the right terminology - built in metal standoffs.

#18 3 years ago

Sorry... late nite. I looked this morning. It does seem fused into the plastic.
faz

#19 3 years ago

Yes, that's what I thought. So there is no way to replace those plastics even though I have new ones that came with the set I purchased from CPR along with the playfield.
John

#20 3 years ago

I did not say that. There may be a technique. Perhaps a separate post to the forum and/or ask CPR.
faz

#21 3 years ago

Lovef2k: When you replaced your Star Trek Playfield, did you run into these plastics with the metal stand offs fused together? I can't figure out what to do with them.
John

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from Soop:

Off topic but curious Lovef2k, where do you get these plated and what type of plate? Nickel or zinc? I've completely disassembled mine off a Power Play and polished up to mirror, would like to keep it that way because it looks really cool.

I live near a industrial plating shop. I built the owner a multi-cade and as a thank you, he re-plates parts for me. He does nickel and zinc. My choice. The only requirement on my end is to clean the parts and remove any surface rust. If the rust is too much, pitting will show after replate which is only cosmetic so I use the best parts I can find. Results vary depending on the type of metal. Sometimes there's some minor spotting which can't be avoided but for the most part they look brand new when finished. Cost is very reasonable. Mike Chestnut does my chrome.

#23 3 years ago
Quoted from Jlescher19:

Lovef2k: When you replaced your Star Trek Playfield, did you run into these plastics with the metal stand offs fused together? I can't figure out what to do with them.
John

No John. I have never seen any plastics come with the stands already assembled. There's a few different methods of swapping the stands. My preferred method is to use a cheap 30 watt soldering iron, not gun. With iron hot, place the tip into the opening of the stand, top side. let it heat up and with pressure they pop out. It takes about 5 to 10 seconds for each one. Note this only applies to plastics that you are not saving. Once all removed, I run them in the tumble with walnut to make them shiny.

To install on the new plastics. Reverse the process. This takes some hand eye coordination and practice. Hold the iron with tip facing up, place stand over the tip also facing up. Hold the plastic with one hand facing up and with other hand, holding iron upright, align the top of the stand with the hole and center the tip of the iron to hold once centered, you want to press the stand into the hole. With pressure between the stand and the plastic, the stand will get hot enough to penetrate the plastic. This is the critical part, once the stand starts to go in, you need to let the flat part of the stand become flush with the plastic. Make sure the stand is straight and don't go too far or you can damage the plastic. To practics this, use the old plastics first until you feel comfortable. It seems more complicated than it sounds. I have done many games this way. There are other ways of doing this but it requires more tools and drilling. The stands were originally pressed on with tiny eyelets(open hole rivet) and then flared over.

#24 3 years ago

Sent out a query to Kevin at CPR.

#25 3 years ago

Thanks Love2k. That's a very fine description of the process. I will do it just that way - sounds like fun.
John

#26 3 years ago
Quoted from Jlescher19:

Thanks Love2k. That's a very fine description of the process. I will do it just that way - sounds like fun.
John

Like I said, practice first. The CPR clears of the ST plastics are slightly thinner than the originals so be careful. You may need need to clean some of the plastic from the stand holes after pressing in. I use a dremel for that. There's also a video on CPR about changing these which involves drilling http://www.classicplayfields.com/f2khelp.html

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