Do you mean this piece?? See photo in this thread?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/77-bally-saucer-problem#post-22940

Bally has two of these style ejects. One is left... the other is right... it matters.

I also posted a Bally Parts guide from this year.

Check out page 59.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxwaW5iYWxsZmF6fGd4OjQ0MmVmMjRiYzA2NTE4NmQ

I'm not sure how this link will post, so here's a link to my webpage... it's on the very bottom.
https://sites.google.com/site/pinballfaz/

faz

Post a pic or 2 of the saucer mech. I may have some spares. I just completed a Star Trek resto and have spare parts. There is a left and a right hand version of these kickers FYI.

The two pointed tabs are part of the mounting bracket on page 59. The wings are attached from the underside and tack welded. it's all part of the component. You can't replace just the wings. They don't do anything, it's just a ball guide to get the ball to set on the switch (like your screws).

This is not a plastic part. It's all metal. If you look at the photo I posted in 2011 you can see the image of the back of the bracket. The wings are missing from it, but you can see the dot where the tack weld held them in place.

faz

Bracket_(resized).JPG

The spot weld must have broken off and the tabs are lost? I'll take a look at my parts and get back tomorrow.

Back when I got my game I found the fins on the bottom of the game. Without a way to weld it on, I picked up a new bracket from PBR.... again, if you buy a replacement there's a left and a right one of these... make sure you get the correct one.
faz

Yes I do know about the left and right differences, I found that out when I did my ST swap. So Steve still has these in stock?

If the fin piece fell off, it may be possible that they were attached with some type of adhesive? I never really took a good look at these. I have had several of these replated and never had one fall apart yet.

You may be able to use an epoxy. All it does is guide a ball to a button switch. Rarely get's a hard shot being recessed. But clearly some shock is strong enough to break the weld.

Typically (and I've only seen this condition less than 10X) the piece is missing.... so nothing to bond.
If you have the piece try it out.

As for "Steve still has these in stock".... nobody knows (perhaps even Steve ) Call and roll the dice. He did have this a few years ago.
faz

Off topic but curious Lovef2k, where do you get these plated and what type of plate? Nickel or zinc? I've completely disassembled mine off a Power Play and polished up to mirror, would like to keep it that way because it looks really cool.

Take off the part. Have it in your hand when you call Steve. He'll ask you the question that tells him 'left' / 'right'.

As far as the pdf. Each page is relative to the beginning. Cover is page 1.... and so on. So, print off pages x-y as per how they appear within the PDF... not the page numbers on the graphic stored within... right?

faz

I have not restored anything... just basic repairs, a few mods.

The "metal boots"... not sure what that might be. I seem to recall a few had a standoff built in... that?
I'll look tonight.

faz

Sorry... late nite. I looked this morning. It does seem fused into the plastic.
faz

I did not say that. There may be a technique. Perhaps a separate post to the forum and/or ask CPR.
faz

I live near a industrial plating shop. I built the owner a multi-cade and as a thank you, he re-plates parts for me. He does nickel and zinc. My choice. The only requirement on my end is to clean the parts and remove any surface rust. If the rust is too much, pitting will show after replate which is only cosmetic so I use the best parts I can find. Results vary depending on the type of metal. Sometimes there's some minor spotting which can't be avoided but for the most part they look brand new when finished. Cost is very reasonable. Mike Chestnut does my chrome.

No John. I have never seen any plastics come with the stands already assembled. There's a few different methods of swapping the stands. My preferred method is to use a cheap 30 watt soldering iron, not gun. With iron hot, place the tip into the opening of the stand, top side. let it heat up and with pressure they pop out. It takes about 5 to 10 seconds for each one. Note this only applies to plastics that you are not saving. Once all removed, I run them in the tumble with walnut to make them shiny.

To install on the new plastics. Reverse the process. This takes some hand eye coordination and practice. Hold the iron with tip facing up, place stand over the tip also facing up. Hold the plastic with one hand facing up and with other hand, holding iron upright, align the top of the stand with the hole and center the tip of the iron to hold once centered, you want to press the stand into the hole. With pressure between the stand and the plastic, the stand will get hot enough to penetrate the plastic. This is the critical part, once the stand starts to go in, you need to let the flat part of the stand become flush with the plastic. Make sure the stand is straight and don't go too far or you can damage the plastic. To practics this, use the old plastics first until you feel comfortable. It seems more complicated than it sounds. I have done many games this way. There are other ways of doing this but it requires more tools and drilling. The stands were originally pressed on with tiny eyelets(open hole rivet) and then flared over.

Like I said, practice first. The CPR clears of the ST plastics are slightly thinner than the originals so be careful. You may need need to clean some of the plastic from the stand holes after pressing in. I use a dremel for that. There's also a video on CPR about changing these which involves drilling http://www.classicplayfields.com/f2khelp.html