(Topic ID: 167307)

Star Trek - Punch-It Button

By KellerDj

7 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 33 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by KellerDj
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 7 years ago

Does anyone know what would need to look at for the "Punch-IT" LED not lighting, Stern sent me a new LED Board and still no luck, have traced the wires all the way to the back of the box to a small board and then up to the main board and cannot see any loose connections but to be honest disconnected the wires on the small board to see if anything would stop working while testing the lamps and nothing stopped working so at a lose as what I should look for next. BTW this was a NIB and has never worked since set it up.

Thanks in advance

#2 7 years ago

Grab a meter and check continuity of the wires from LED to board. You probably have a break.

LTG : )

#3 7 years ago

I would look at the wires in the connector it runs to which is a IDC connector. A lot of times you can have a wire come loose there. If the wire is not all the way down in it's housing it will be a problem. Sometimes you can single the wires and seem if the lite comes on and you know that is the one that is the problem.

#4 7 years ago

Thanks will give those ideas a try, when should the light work since never seen it on, should it be lite when testing all LEDs in a single color?

#5 7 years ago

I agree with Tom. My friend's button was not lighting on his LE. While looking at the wiring harness, the Z connector that connects to the launch button, one of the wires were ripped out of one of the connectors on the Z connector (I believe the red wire from the 6 wires in the harness). Make sure all the wires are intact. Also follow the pattern on the good connector and match it up to the other connector to follow the pattern if one of the wires are missing. The colors will match on both sides of the Z connector. It took me some time to figure it out but after I found the wire that was ripped out, it was easy to fix. Also to check the LED to see if it works, I took off the LED from the machine, grabbed a 9volt battery and connected two wires to the battery. Next I attached the two wires to the LED connectors to see if the LED was working. With this test I noticed the LED was in working condition and knew it had to do with the wiring in the machine. When you start a new game hitting the start button, the button should flash before launching the ball. Good Luck.

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#6 7 years ago

Thanks for the picture on mine the red wire on the bottom connector was out when I first got it but put it back in one thing I do notice on your picture does the red wire on the other end have a loop and not end at the switch as mine connects to the Z Connector and goes into the wiring harness doesn't end at the Z Connector like all the other wires?

#7 7 years ago

Here is the connector that the red wire was not connected in red and continues out of the z Connector picture is upside down took from top, doesn't look as though the one in the previous picture does that.

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#8 7 years ago

Here's mine and the LED board

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#9 7 years ago

Check also the wires on the opposite side of that z connector. As LTG mentioned, also check continuity of the wires if you have a Multimeter

#10 7 years ago
Quoted from KellerDj:

Here is the connector that the red wire was not connected in red and continues out of the z Connector picture is upside down took from top, doesn't look as though the one in the previous picture does that.

Just looked at my wiring again, The red wire as you indicated does not connect into the molex connector from the end of the wire. It connects mid wire into the connector and is looped back into the cabinet. All the other wires start at the end of the wire into the molex connectors on both sides of the Z connector. Also, test the LED with the 9 volt battery to make sure both LEDS you have are working. The LEDS probably work, but it takes one minute to check. Just takes that part out of the mix of trying to figure out the issue. I am an IT director for a living, and my job pretty much is all about a checklist and taking things out and retesting to make sure that part is not the problem. Let me know if you need more pics or questions.

#11 7 years ago

Tested the LEDs and they do in fact work so that's not the case, I will continue to work my way to the back, if I put all lamps in test mode should this lamp light as well or is there another test for it as would like to keep on test so if find a lose wire might light while going through everything?

#12 7 years ago
Quoted from KellerDj:

Thanks for the picture on mine the red wire on the bottom connector was out when I first got it but put it back in one thing I do notice on your picture does the red wire on the other end have a loop and not end at the switch as mine connects to the Z Connector and goes into the wiring harness doesn't end at the Z Connector like all the other wires?

if the wire came out the back and you manually pushed it back in, that might be your problem. I've never had success manually putting wires back in those crappy original connectors.

#13 7 years ago

Suggestion on the best way to put them back in if they come out? I used a very small screwdriver to press in the center and obviously not sure if made the connection.

#14 7 years ago

there is a special tool designed just for those. I don't own one either, and used the small screwdriver method, and whatever I put in that way, either still doesn't work, or works for a bit then doesn't anymore.

I think once they are in and come back out, they slice the wires. I'd try and push the casing back and make sure the wire is actually making good contact with the pins in the connector. They really have to get down in there.

#15 7 years ago

I was able to verify they are connected and was able to trace all the way to the back of the box that all wires are connected. does anyone know how to test this board as this is where all the wires connect into before heading the back box the red, white, blue, black head up and connect to J5.

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#16 7 years ago

Did you check continuity of the wires yet?
Not visiually but with a multimeter.

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#17 7 years ago

Yes used multimeter and was able to apply 9v to wires and get the led to light I am thinking either board or no ground

#18 7 years ago

I have the same problem, thought it was the led itself but after seeing this I'm not too sure about that.

#19 7 years ago
Quoted from KellerDj:

I was able to verify they are connected and was able to trace all the way to the back of the box that all wires are connected. does anyone know how to test this board as this is where all the wires connect into before heading the back box the red, white, blue, black head up and connect to J5.

In your picture, you should have a connector at cn3 (upper right of board).

Test the voltage at cn4 red wire. Put multimeter to DC V and black lead on ground strap and red on the red wire far right of connector cn4 (do in all lamps test on with coin door open). You should get a reading 4.8-5 Volts.
If no voltage, set multimeter to continuity and test red wire from board to wire on led. If no buzz to tone, then you have a broken wire.

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#20 7 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

I have the same problem, thought it was the led itself but after seeing this I'm not too sure about that.

I was just able to get this fixed last night with the help of friend it seems the factory doesn't know what direction the plug in the back of the box should go as they installed wrong in the picture circled this is how came from factory but in fact the red wire should go on the left not the right, once switched the LED's worked but believe the board is shorted as the RED LED only gets 2v when should get 5v and doesn't light enough, your green start button should also start blinking as it was intended to. I am just surprised things were working with this upside down and sad that I have had to work on a NIB for this long over something that should have been caught in Quality Control, and what makes this even more messed up is the fact that Stern sent me a Manual with ST covers but all pages inside for the "Walking Dead" which made troubleshooting this that much more difficult. I will let you know what Stern tells me they will replace in order to get this finally operational as it was intended.

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#21 7 years ago

TomGWI thanks for the picture that may explain why the RED LED doesn't have the power since do not have a connector on CN3 could you tell me where that wire connects to when it leaves CN3 on your machine? as I do not have any lose connectors that are not plugged into anything?

#22 7 years ago

I'll do some investigating tonight in regards to cn3.

Do you have a LE or a Premium?

#23 7 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

I'll do some investigating tonight in regards to cn3.
Do you have a LE or a Premium?

I have the Premium, thanks in advance

#24 7 years ago
Quoted from KellerDj:

I have the Premium, thanks in advance

I have a LE so it maybe a connector for the added LE lights but I'll check it out tonight.

#25 7 years ago
Quoted from KellerDj:

I have the Premium, thanks in advance

Keller, just checked my Premium, nothing attached to CN3

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#26 7 years ago

OK thanks and thanks for the picture shows that I now have the connecter connected correctly now, just have to wait to hear from Stern on if the board needs replaced.

#27 7 years ago

I've been helping on this with KellerDj. I wonder if Stern installed the LE part in his Premium? Notice the part #'s are different on his PCB vs. the one that wigg07 posted. I also looked at schematics and shows two different part #'s for that PCB between models.

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#28 7 years ago

Looks like CN3 is for the side cabinet LEDs on the LE so you won't need it.

#29 7 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

Looks like CN3 is for the side cabinet LEDs on the LE so you won't need it.

Ok thanks

#30 7 years ago

Mine was working and stopped working. Was your not working from the factory?

Quoted from KellerDj:

I was just able to get this fixed last night with the help of friend it seems the factory doesn't know what direction the plug in the back of the box should go as they installed wrong in the picture circled this is how came from factory but in fact the red wire should go on the left not the right, once switched the LED's worked but believe the board is shorted as the RED LED only gets 2v when should get 5v and doesn't light enough, your green start button should also start blinking as it was intended to. I am just surprised things were working with this upside down and sad that I have had to work on a NIB for this long over something that should have been caught in Quality Control, and what makes this even more messed up is the fact that Stern sent me a Manual with ST covers but all pages inside for the "Walking Dead" which made troubleshooting this that much more difficult. I will let you know what Stern tells me they will replace in order to get this finally operational as it was intended.

#31 7 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Mine was working and stopped working. Was your not working from the factory?

It was not working from the factory, technically still not working since need the RED Led to work the way it should. You may want to check the Z Connector the LED connects to as I had loose wires there as well

#32 7 years ago

I wanted to thank everyone for their help with this, was able to work with Stern support today and they believe since the connector was installed incorrectly it shorted out the small board that controls the led board, so they are sending out a replacement hopefully this will resolve the issue.

1 week later
#33 7 years ago

Well finally got the Phaser control board and that was the cause of all my issues due to the main plug from the backboard being installed wrong, so when get a new ST would recommend looking at the connector is installed correctly before turning it on as don't believe was checked prior to leaving the factory and will connect easily in any orientation.

Thanks again for everyone that worked with me on this issue.

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