Seems like one of the under pf diverter does not work .
Go into coil test and check if all coils work .

Those all get power through F103 so I would check the fuse first. If the fuse is fine then check J4 on the 8-driver pcb.

Live and learn. We've all made dumb mistakes at one time or another, and I've made a few long after I was in the rookie category.

The coil and sleeve need to be replaced obviously. Check the driver transistor for that coil and see if it is shorted (causing the coil to lock on). All of the problems need to be fixed at the same time or you're going to just keep blowing stuff.

The solenoid table in the manual will provide info on which driver transistor relates to that coil. If the driver transistor is shorted you should also replace the pre-driver just as a precaution.

Yeah the manual only seem to show one of the divertors A-16763, although AFAIK they all use the same type of coil AE-25-1000.

Strangely from your pictures the burnt coil wrapper seem to show a different type which indicate it's been replaced before and possibly with the wrong type. This could actually have something to do with why/if the driver transistor shorted and subsequently fried the coil.

You will also most likely need the coil liner: 03-7066. I presume it will be the same for both diverters.

And a TIP102 transistor and some fuses.

I had a similar issue a few months ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-burned-up-subway-coil

Note: It might depend on where you order your coil from but sometimes they include the coil sleeve when you buy a new coil.

I would also order the pre-driver transistor: 2N4403. They will often get blown if the driver transistor shorts. Order a few of each transistor just in case.

You are gonna need to replace the stuff as mentioned on the aux driver board, and MAKE SURE the tie back wire on the coil is good and connected, otherwise this will happen all over again. VERY common problem on STTNG.

More info here:

http://kcpins.com/archives/542

The temp fix for this problem is to go into the menu and set RT Launcher & LT Launcher to BROKEN. This is how my STTNG is currently operating while a new coil is on order.

Yes, because F103 was heavy overfused, F112 has now blown (luckily). But the reason can also be a failed bridge rectifier (Br.3 on PDB) due to the large current flow.

F112-103.PNG

sttng sol37.jpg

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remove 4 nuts
loosen inbus with Allen wrench
desolder wires
remove mechanism
use brute force

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In my previous picture they where already circled in red, but I can not give advice how to repair this board.

First my words of caution: If you are not experienced in board rework, you take a risk of making things worse with a board in that condition. It's hard enough to work on a virgin board let alone one that has been previously, and poorly, repaired. In fact it is probably beyond what most board guys would even touch (not that they couldn't do it, just not worth the trouble) so replacement should be a consideration.

If you want to repair the board yourself the proper way would be to install eyelets (to replace all the destroyed through-holes) and run proper jumpers (those bare wires are not acceptable).

The fast and dirty way would be to bend the transistor leads over as they are now. Once you've done that you will need to wring out all of those circuits and make sure you have across and through board connectivity and no shorts (before you put power on the board)

There's no need to remove or loosen the plunger from the diverter shaft. Just the bottom screws to loosen the plunger stop, then the coil can be desoldered. The coil and coilsleeve can be discarded and replaced for a new one.

I'd suggest someone else to look at the boardwork though. Is the tieback wire even attached or physically available on the droptarget?

Said it before me: I would just buy a new board and be done with it. I am usually all about fixing or having a board repaired.....But DAMN.....

Also, make sure you remove the diode from the new coil before installing. STNNG does not need diodes on the coils as the diodes are on the boards. Leaving the diode on the coil, you risk installing it backwards and blowing fuses/transistors again.

You sure picked a bad board to try and repair the first time. If you attempt the repair yourself, take lots of pictures and put the new components in EXACTLY the same way the old ones were connected.

Going to drop in here and say the manual and schematics are your friend. It is so easy to get overwhelmed by the PCBs and the moving parts of the machine that you can easily forget the best resource that you have.

I'm not competent in board repair, but one day I will be. Spend some time with the circuit and wiring schematic section of your manual and you can easily trace how every part of the machine is powered and see exactly where that power is coming from. Pinside is the best resource on the internet and has helped me with a great many problems with my machines. Over time I have found that the solutions to problems were at my fingertips I was just too overwhelmed to look and find them.

Good luck with your repair, ST:TNG is a killer pin!

Do you have voltage at 38, 39 and 40?

Are you sure you didn't "lose" a jumper while installing the new components or damage a trace or through-hole?

I would ring-out the circuit for the solenoids that aren't working and make sure you've got across board and through board connectivity.

Can you post a picture of the work done?

While soldering a transistor one of the jumpers came loose and is no longer attached.

As I said before start ringing out the circuit. If you're not comfortable with reading the schematic then I would buy a new board.

Based on the condition of the board before you started I would suspect a trace, jumper or through-hole problem.

You need to look at the coil for the drop target. Verify you have solid connections for ALL the wires. Post some pics if needed.

That hum you hear is probably a locked-on coil. (At least that is what I hear when it happens to me.)

I had the same problem, minus the diverter noise. For what it's worth, I found two issues. Both related to the ball trough opto board. First, my power to the board was flaky due to a bad connector. After I got that straightened out, I found that one of the transmitting optos was out. I replaced the trough opto boards with the upgraded GLM boards. A quick check for this would be to go into switch edges and drop one ball into the empty ball trough. Watch and make sure all optos trigger in a row.

Double post. Stupid phone.

^^ this ... and you replaced the diverter coils and hear them engaging. But are the diverter mechs doing their job?
Are they moving freely ? Those get gunked up at times.

Maybe tighten the inbus and/or adjust top diverter , it looks like it doesn't direct the ball to the right.

You could perhaps post a pic of the SW Edges test screen.

If the loading of balls were successfull, SW optos 41, 36, 37 and 64-66 should be off.

Also I believe if you drop a ball into Top hole (behind the droptarget) you should see SW 45 and 46 briefly flicker as the ball rolls down the subway.

Definitely check the top divertor to make sure it's tight and is activating to send the ball to the right.
I had to adjust mine twice since I've owned it due to the allen screws loosening up over time. When they loosen the divertor arm won't swing over far enough to push the ball to the right.

Excellent video, unfortunately though SW 45-46 seems to react as they should, so that doesn't seem to be the problem.

And it shows the right gun popper doesn't get a ball, else SW 37 should be off, it's not.

Just to be sure you could try and drop a ball down the right gun popper and SW 37 should turn off. This should also stop the ball loadnig cycle.

And as you already verified the divertors work in solenoid test, one suggestion could be to do a U8 Factory reset if you haven't already tried that, keep in mind though you'll probably loose your high scores doing that.

Have you checked the mechanics of the diverter coils to ensure in addition to the coil firing, the diverter is swinging completely?

Have you checked all the subway optos? If they are not working, it can direct the ball into the wrong place and/or not detect that the ball is in the right place. When I have subway opto problems, I get the exact same behavior as you are seeing.

For me, the problem was the switch matrix connector on the opto board. I would jiggle or reseat that connector and it would work for a while.