Condition is king--no matter where it comes from.

Some people value an import slightly less, but if it's in nice condition with little to no wear, condition usually wins out.

A problem area on the game is usually the cannons not working. From what I understand, it can sometimes be a challenging problem to fix.

When importing it, you will need to change the voltage and power plug so it will work in the US.

Make sure you get plenty of good, clear photos both inside and out of the game before you commit to buying.

And don't forget to post your location. Not really sure why people don't add their location to pinside. It makes a big difference when you are buying or selling.

Great choice for a pin! These haven't gone down in value and I don't see where it matters if its a re-import or not as long as everything is working. There is a ton of things that can break on this game, like FF said the cannons are known to be problematic but I wouldn't let a non working cannon deter from making the purchase since parts are readily available for them; for each cannon that doesn't work take off $100 from what you would pay if they worked, even if the cannon works but sounds really bad assume the gearbox is going to fail which is a $70 part. Make sure you get a really good look at the neutral zone hole as this is one of the high wear areas. Get good pictures of the subway as well, this is plastic and often times get broken from people lifting the playfield without first removing the balls from the game, $100 part. Look for broken ramps, all ramps are available for but are expensive, little over $300 for the set. Original WPC circuit boards, this is a topic of much debate, personally I like to have all the original boards since I can perform the repairs on them. A big thing to consider is the DMD, if it has a ColorDMD this is a $400 upgrade, if it has the original DMD, plan on having to replace it.

Its under the playfield, takes the balls from the 3 playfield holes to the the VUK's. Looks like the one in this picture.

1127_(resized).JPG

As for Neutral Zone wear, that's something you will have to decide for yourself, most cover it with a cliffy so it can be difficult to tell how much wear is there. I personally don't like the way this cliffy looks, but that's just me.

moowk, I am less than 3 hours down the Thruway. Located just outside of Syracuse.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-fsft-star-trek-the-next-generation-1

Some people will care that it is a reimport, some won't. Condition is what matters. STTNG is a very expensive game to fix up. Expect to pay high 3's to low 4's for an average machine. A nice one should pull more due to the cost of parts and the crazy amount of labor to fix it.

Things to look at on a STTNG.

Ramps tend to crack, they are 300 to replace all 3.

Playfield tends to get wear. The teal shield inserts in the middle of the playfield can melt or ghost badly. Micro has made playfields I believe they are 850.

Borg ship at the back of the playfield tends to warp from heat. It is available, pinball life has it for 60.
Cannon covers tend to break. 35 a piece from marco

Cannons tend to not work (wiring harness breaks inside). 50 for the pair from marco/

The delta quadrant ramp has a diverter to send the ball into the borg ship. This tends to get gummed up and not work. (time consuming, but free fix)

Trough optos tend to fail due to vibration. There is an upgrade to replace/fix this, but it is oos from what I have seen.

Trough can wear out. 125 to replace from marco for the upgraded trough. Someone makes an insert that is cheaper to fix it.

Subway optos tend to fail. Cheap fix, but annoying to pull the trough and replace optos.

Cabinets get slight fade, but the bigger issue is the head decals have a blue base. When they get scratched you get blue. Head decals are available separately from full cab sets. Cab set is 300.

You should probably start your own thread in the tech forum for troubleshooting help:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/tech-dot-matrix-games

Are you saying the end of stroke switch registers but no the cabinet button's ? These are 2 different switches.
Great lakes has led light that lights when button is pushed in, is this working?
I would start by looking at the connectors at the flipper circuit board first, also check to make sure you don't have dirty optics.