(Topic ID: 183284)

Star Trek next gen issue


By Jbo324

2 years ago



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  • 34 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by SideTrackTap
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 2 years ago

This is a pretty new machine and restored beautifully. I was playing and the ball got stuck somewhere and the game went a little haywire for a bit. I turned off the machine and a big red light came on in the top right corner. The game will turn on but won't launch and just searches for balls constantly but they're in the thing next to the launcher. Any idea what went wrong?

Edit: so it seems the machine can't locate any balls or launch from anywhere other than the moving launchers. It got to Borg mode and wouldn't launch the multiball. I got the balls on the play field manually since the first launcher doesn't seem to be working. The test report says the spinner f7 is a problem but everything else seems okay.

#2 2 years ago

Do you have all 6 balls accounted for? If not, maybe 1 is stuck somewhere and is just going into search mode. If you have all balls accounted for then it is an opto or maybe damage on CPU board. Do you have acid damage on CPU? I think maybe opto issue. Go into test mode and check switches.

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballT:

Do you have all 6 balls accounted for? If not, maybe 1 is stuck somewhere and is just going into search mode. If you have all balls accounted for then it is an opto or maybe damage on CPU board. Do you have acid damage on CPU? I think maybe opto issue. Go into test mode and check switches.

All the balls are there. I'm very new to this so sorry if I ask very stupid questions. I reset factory settings and the problem persists. I can get to the switch test but how do I actually do the test? What do you mean Opto? The cpu looks fine to me.

Okay, so I've managed to find all the balls but I think it has something to do with the ball trough.

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#4 2 years ago

If the coils are all working then, as suggested, it's likely an opto issue. An opto is just an electrical switch that uses an infrared light beam. A transmitter LED emits light and a receiver LED receives the light. When the receiver sees the light it tells the CPU there is no ball there. When a ball rolls between the transmitter and receiver, it blocks the light and tells the CPU a ball is there.

There are 5 or 6 of these in the ball trough next to the plunger and probably about that many more in the subway troughs under the playfield. If you drop all 6 balls into the trough and turn the game on, the game will shoot 3 balls up to the lock shot to pre-load them in the subway troughs under the middle of the playfield. If any one or more of these optos is dirty, has a cracked solder joint or just plain died, the game has no clue to where the balls are and will go into an endless ball search.

To find the bad opto, you'll need to go into switch edge test and start blocking each opto pair with a ball. In the main trough at the bottom of the game they're mounted to two long green PCB on either side of the trough. The clear is the transmitter opto and the dark is the receiver opto. In the mid playfield subway areas they are on individual green PCBs with a white or black plastic light shield around them. Probably going to have to roll a ball in the troughs to get them to register in test.

#5 2 years ago

So I'm going to try and test the trough but I have found something troubling. I managed to do the solenoid test and the following aren't making any noise during the test which means they're messed up? The knocker, left sling, right sling, left jet, right jet, bottom jet, trough top divertor and Borg kicker don't make any noise during the solenoid test. The other tests seem to be running fine.

#6 2 years ago

The spinner switch has nothing to do with your problem, but you should replace it since the machine is telling you it's not working, (unless you have not hit the left orbit in over thirty games, then the game THINKS its bad)

Anyway, there are two things to look for with this problem. When you start a game on this machine there are only three balls in the trough. The game stores three balls under the playfield, one at each cannon up kicker, and one on the left up kicker (the one right by the left orbit that feeds the mini ramp to the left flipper.

With the balls removed lift the playfield all the way up and find each of the switches that go to these kickers, they look like little flashlights bulbs on green and blue circuit boards. While in the switch test take a dollar bill and fold it up about three times lengthwise and insert it between the "bulb" you should hear a tone indicating that the switch registered, do this for all three switches, if one of them does not bong it is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Also I recommend replacing the trough board with a Great Lakes Modular set, they are more reliable.

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from Jbo324:

So I'm going to try and test the trough but I have found something troubling. I managed to do the solenoid test and the following aren't making any noise during the test which means they're messed up? The knocker, left sling, right sling, left jet, right jet, bottom jet, trough top divertor and Borg kicker don't make any noise during the solenoid test. The other tests seem to be running fine.

The coils wont fire unless you push the interlock switch in to reactivate the high power circuits to the game.
It's the little white switch inside the coin door with two buttons on it. push and hold them in and your coils will fire

#8 2 years ago

Blown fuse for solenoids 9-16? F104 located second from the right in the top center of the power driver board. 3A fuse.

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Blown fuse for solenoids 9-16? F104 located second from the right in the top center of the power driver board. 3A fuse.

Or possibly that too, but I don't think the slings are in the 9-16 group. Don't have my manual handy, but I think they are in 1-8.

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from buffaloatx:

The spinner switch

On your game is a dedicated switch, check for broken wire at your EOS switches.

LTG : )

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from buffaloatx:

Or possibly that too, but I don't think the slings are in the 9-16 group. Don't have my manual handy, but I think they are in 1-8.

9 sling
10 sling
11 trough
12 left jet
13 right jet
14 bottom jet
15 top diverter
16 borg kicker

From the manual...but those have been known to be wrong too.

#12 2 years ago

Under l l.lock sw2 is open in the switch test. Is it supposed to be? The coils 7-16 with the exception of 8 aren't working even with that white button pressed. A blown fuse. Looking for it.

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from Jbo324:

Under l l.lock sw2 is open in the switch test. Is it supposed to be? The coils 7-16 with the exception of 8 aren't working even with that white button pressed. A blown fuse. Looking for it.

Pretty sure there's your problem.. replace the fuse and the optos (replace both at the same time) and you should be back in business

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from Jbo324:

Under l l.lock sw2 is open in the switch test. Is it supposed to be? The coils 7-16 with the exception of 8 aren't working even with that white button pressed. A blown fuse. Looking for it.

With all balls out of the game, all standard microswitches will appear open with no square around the dot in switch edge test. All optos will look closed with a square around the dot in switch edge. If you look at the switch matrix in the manual, the optos are the grayed squares, so just compare to what you see on the dmd.

#15 2 years ago

Which Opto? Again new to this so sorry if this is a stupid question. Here's the fuse. Looks blown. Where can I get a new one? Should it just pop out?

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#16 2 years ago

Yep blown. 3A, Slow Blow. If you still have a Radio Shack in your town I'd try there. Or you can order on-line

#17 2 years ago
Quoted from Jbo324:

Where can I get a new one? Should it just pop out?

Pop out. Fuse puller or small screw driver.

Pinballlife.com has them. Get the right size.

This one is blown, you can't always tell by looks, you can pull and check with a meter too.

LTG : )

#18 2 years ago

Awesome, thanks guys. About to head to the store. So in regards to optos. The manual has this diagram. Does that mean the under l.lock sw2 should be closed?

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#19 2 years ago
Quoted from Jbo324:

Awesome, thanks guys. About to head to the store. So in regards to optos. The manual has this diagram. Does that mean the under l.lock sw2 should be closed?

Yes. The opto is dirty, bad solder joint. wire off the board or dead opto.

#20 2 years ago

Here is a link to my Tech Chart:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Williams_Star_Trek_TNG_Tech_Chart.pdf
Everything on one chart....

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

#21 2 years ago

Thanks guys! Replaced the fuse now everything is back to normal. The under l lock sw2 is closed again as well which means it's not a problem? I can't believe it. My first repair. Really couldn't have done it without you. I get so stressed when the machines mess up.

#22 2 years ago

The opto could be intermittent. I'd keep an eye on it now that you know it's acted up.

#23 2 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

The opto could be intermittent. I'd keep an eye on it now that you know it's acted up.

Okay, one more thing. After I restarted the game, there was a weird smell. I double checked the fuse and it was fine. Then checked the bottom of the playing field and found this. im guessing this is burned out and prob has something to do with the Opto you were talking about? The smell seems to be coming from some oilish substance around the thing. Also, is this just black because it's black or burned def not the same color as the others. Where would I order a replacement part for this? What would the part number be?

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#24 2 years ago
Quoted from Jbo324:

What would the part number be?

Look it up in your manual.

Quoted from Jbo324:

im guessing this is burned out and prob has something to do with the Opto you were talking about?

No. Please check your purple wires with a green stripe to the drop target coil. Three of them, though the thin one is more lavender and green stripe. The thin one breaks off, it is your diode tie back wire. And you fry that coil and do some damage to the small board upper right corner in the back box.

STNG owners should remove those three wires, solder them together and to a single wire, and solder the single wire to the drop target coil lug. That way if the single wire breaks off, the other three are still connected and you don't burn stuff up.

LTG : )

#25 2 years ago

If you can master repairs on STTNG you can repair any pinball....Thats one temperamental machine.

#26 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

STNG owners should remove those three wires, solder them together and to a single wire, and solder the single wire to the drop target coil lug. That way if the single wire breaks off, the other three are still connected and you don't burn stuff up.
LTG : )

So you think the burning is coming from that wire?

#27 2 years ago
Quoted from Jbo324:

So you think the burning is coming from that wire?

No.

That thin wire breaks off, a back surge of electricity took out a transistor and some parts on that board I mentioned, and locked the coil on and burned your coil into uselessness.

LTG : )

#28 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

No.
That thin wire breaks off, a back surge of electricity took out a transistor and some parts on that board I mentioned, and locked the coil on and burned your coil into uselessness.
LTG : )

Is this the Board you were talking about in the last post? Any idea about the level of diffficulty of fixing this?
Things I would need to replace would be the coil, the transistor and?

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#29 2 years ago
Quoted from Jbo324:

Any idea about the level of diffficulty of fixing this?

I'd use a meter and check the transistor first. Difficulty is more are you comfortable with board work and do more good than harm.

Then check if that wire broke off the drop target coil.

Then replace the coil and power up, if it locks on turn game off and fix more stuff.

LTG : )

#30 2 years ago

Inside cover on your manual, that coil is an AE-25-1000

LTG : )

#31 2 years ago

I'll get the part, a meter reader and then go from there! Will update as I progress.

#32 2 years ago

What could have caused this problem? Isn't there an underlying issue typically?

#33 2 years ago
Quoted from Jbo324:

What could have caused this problem? Isn't there an underlying issue typically?

Please see my post #24 above. Common STNG problem.

LTG : )

#34 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

STNG owners should remove those three wires, solder them together and to a single wire, and solder the single wire to the drop target coil lug. That way if the single wire breaks off, the other three are still connected and you don't burn stuff up.
LTG : )

Thanks for this info Loyd; I'm going to double check these when I get my STTNG set up and running.

Chris

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