(Topic ID: 57136)

Star Trek Club.... Members Only!

By Jean-Luc-Picard

10 years ago


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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider wtfbliz.
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#9916 2 years ago

Hi all just joined the club and am very excited. My first pin ever. Got a premium with a few mods.

My questions will be dumb and bad because I am so new. I added the movie score 1.62 code, and am trying to balance out the sound. All I see is music attenuation and voice attenuation. Are sound effects listed in one of these groups? Sound effects feel pretty loud compared to music and voice at the moment.

#9923 2 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Adjust the Music Attenuation to -5 and play, then adjust to -10 if you still want the music higher in the mix. You’ll need to turn your overall/main volume down a couple notches on the coin door from what you’ve had it on but you’ll be able to find a balance that works for you. …Yes -5 not +5, I know it sounds strange but that’s how it works(;

Thanks, I completely spaced out the giant VOLUME labels on the red buttons and was searching for a master volume in the actual setup menus.

I turned down main volume, put voices at -8 and music at -12 and I feel like that sounds about right for me.

Having fun other than the right outlane seems brutally wide open and i lose 90% of my balls there. When the slings get going very often itll throw it straight in there.

Only three things ive noticed so far that may not be normal:

Vengeance magnet is a little convex and sticks out of the playfield a touch so sometimes when it releases a ball the magnet deflects it around and it comes down too slowly and the knockdown pops back up before its clear.

Kickback in the left outlane sometimes kicks it up around the warp flipper, but sometimes kicks it straight into the right outlane. Hoping cleaning and potentially realigning it a touch helps

Getting a decent amount of airballs (especially when trying to launch into the warp ramp area and miss the shot. Am hoping this is just dirty field and balls giving the pinballs too much grip and rotation. Going to swap the balls, clean it with novus 2 and put down a layer of carnauba and see how differently it plays.

So much good info here!

Added over 3 years ago:

Also, there is a LOT of clear plastic pieces along the top of the ramps and a couple other places that dont seem to serve any purpose whatsoever, and theres a number of screws that go nowhere and connect nothing. Not sure if theyre aftermarket or just different things that LE/pro/premium have or dont have... shed any light?

#9925 2 years ago

Dont mean to junk up this thread but no one else is posting so update time!...

I opened up the game, tightened a few screws I could find, novus 2 + waxed the playfield, swapped the balls... aaaaand now it is UNPLAYABLY fast even at only 6.5 degrees. It fixed all my ball behavior problems and added the problem of unstable warp ramp feed.

I added velcro to the back of the warp ramp like I saw suggested here and it really seems to help. Only other surgery I've had to do is adjust a few of the red matter post target leaf switches from being stuck open or stuck closed.

#9927 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinzzz:

I would like to know more about the velcro placement on the warp ramp. what post # was it?

Check this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-pro-warp-ramp-adjusting-fail#post-3542605

Theres a few people who have said they did it with nice results. I basically did the same setup as in the pictures, one strip on the bottom and one on the outside of the turn. So far it slows down the feed so that its not bouncing around or coming out crooked and you can actually chain the warp ramp a bit.

2 weeks later
#9940 2 years ago

Im in the process of adding the hotwheels klingon ship as well as the hallmark kelvin to the playfield... Ive never done any of this, zitt is sending them to me mostly plug and play with the circuit boards already installed, but I know nothing about how to wire them... any idiotproof guides? I can solder and understand circuits but I havent messed with pinballs ever.

1 week later
#9950 2 years ago

Grabbed some mods from Zitt at pinball-mods and got them into my ST Premium over the weekend. The Bird of Prey, the Kelvin, and the insignia pop caps

Quick vid of what they look like. Thanks to him on answering a lot of my questions.

3 weeks later
#9980 2 years ago

Hi dudes...

I had the middle line of triangle LEDs for the torpedo shots or w/e they are called become very weird in an unpredictable way... without any rhyme or reason they will flicker multiple LED colors and different colors in each LED and be lit or not lit at seemingly random times when they should or shouldnt be lit. This happens pre-game, in game, and sometimes happens across both players or only during 1 players ball.

I opened up and checked the ethernet cable and the connection to the triangle board its attached to.

Anyone else experienced this? Which board or cable is most likely to be bad? Never had any issues with the mission LEDs themselves on the triangle, only the missile line of LEDs.

#10000 2 years ago

Right now I have one of those cheap remote control multicolor LEDs behind the speakers.

Has anyone ever tried to rig something up where speaker LEDs would change color to match the current mission? Not sure what the wiring would look like or where would be the best place to tap in to get the signal of what color to be.

Thoughts?

#10006 2 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

Does the lockdown bar button change with the mode selected?

It flashes the color for a few seconds, then it flashes red, then it turns off, so not sure tapping in there would be a reliable way to go.

3 weeks later
#10060 2 years ago

Having a new problem... the vengeance often will not return to its normal position after you beat it up. Seems to be a friction/alignment issue, because I confirmed that the latch fires and that if I put half an ounce of pressure on the front of it with my hand itll pop back up, so seems like the mechanicals are working properly and its just rubbing on something.

Ive tried lubing up the pins/retaining clips on both sides of that track that it travels on, but hasnt seemed to help. Any other suggestions to align it better or things I can try lubricating or tightening so that it pops back to life?

#10083 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I need the kickout to be full strength for sure...any less power and the kickout is consistently worse (i.e. into the top of the sling). I just carefully bent the end of the metal ball guide on the left side of the scoop exit to try to direct the ball more towards the flipper and away from the top of the scoop. It definitely improved the kickout for sure. I'll keep tweaking

Its very dependent on the state of the playfield or if other things are popping off at the same time or the shaker motor is going... I get inconsistent feeds when the playfield isnt freshly waxed. For a month or so after I waxed, it would feed directly to the warp flipper prob 90% of the time

9 months later
#10365 1 year ago

Hi dudes, new issue on my ST. The far right badge looks like the led diode doesn't light red. Confirming this is a board problem and not a loose connection problem. I've tried reconnecting wires etc.

Going to start searching for a replacement board if so.

20221012_154104 (resized).jpg20221012_154104 (resized).jpg

Is this the part I need? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/520-6812-01

#10367 1 year ago
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:

Is yours an LE? I found this...
Edit: no no I think I'm wrong. The shape of the board is totally different. I think yours is correct...?

Sorry, that would have been helpful! Its a premium. I believe that part number I linked is the correct board. I guess at this point just making sure this isnt a common issue with a wiring type of fix or a "just clean the diode" or something dumb before i rip and replace the whole board.

1 week later
#10372 1 year ago
Quoted from Zitt:

If the LED isn't outputting Red... the only option is to replace the board or LED.
Look at the schematics at the manual. If this board has a microcontroller; then you'd expect to need to replace the board because the LED is driven locally.
If there is a 4 color "wire harness" coming from another board that has the microcontroller; then it could be the other board or harness.
Another user reported a similar issue with a bad red channel on an LED. I don't recall if it was this thread or another. His solution was to find a equivalent LED and replace it.

Got busy with work, but got the board from Marco and plugged right in and everything works now... looked at the old board and didnt see any issues with connections or soldering... I dont have the expertise to do work that delicate.

Thanks for help folks.

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