(Topic ID: 57136)

Star Trek Club.... Members Only!

By Jean-Luc-Picard

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 7,762 posts
  • 636 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 minutes ago by Mr_Outlane
  • Topic is favorited by 281 Pinsiders


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#5855 2 years ago

We're can you find the orange sling shot rubbers for ST Pro. Are they Super Bands. I can't find them anywhere.

1 week later
#5877 2 years ago

Mine hardly ever ejects to the flipper. I've adjusted it many times. It works best for me on high or the ball just bounced off the sling shot. When I have time, I was going to check and see if the eject hole is damaged or cracked. I thought I read a forum mentioning a fix, because something broke.

#5880 2 years ago
Quoted from InfiniteLives:

I'm having a weird issue on stern star trek pro where the flipper buttons will sometimes register the bottom center opto target. This makes the drop go up and down in game and give you free shots to the vengeance in vegence modes... no idea what could cause this. I swapped out the opto board and doesn't fix it.

Mine had the same problem. I needed to replace the opto itself, not the board. I ended up replacing all of them under the ship, because I didn't want to do it again. The opts on the right are easy to get to, but the ones on the left are difficult. I started a forum recently that went over some of the problems I had. It was called Star Trek Pro drop target other fixes. Hope this helps.

1 week later
#5884 2 years ago

Mine is right at the top of the line.

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#5886 2 years ago

We'll using my clinometer app on my phone and laying the phone on the glass, I'm at 15.1.

#5888 2 years ago

I understand, but for ease of use, transferring incline specs off of the same machine wouldn't going off the glass be easier.

#5890 2 years ago

6.8 incline for playfield

2 months later
#5954 2 years ago

Mine has almost 8000. The playfield is near perfect. I think it still has the original flippers. The only work I've done to it is replace some optos, clean up the plunger, rubbers, lights, Novus and wax.

2 weeks later
#5975 2 years ago

I'm not the best at fixing machines, but I'd look at the wires that go to your volume controls since that's an area that gets bumped a lot. Also, do you have clutter inside the machine that might have hit something?
I have an old Fire Power II that made a similar sound and I needed to replace the sound board in the back box. That fixed it for me.

1 month later
#6023 2 years ago

Stupid question- does anyone know how to erase extra credits in the machine, besides taking the battery out and doing a complete reset.

#6025 2 years ago

ST Pro, I might have missed it, but didn't see one

#6027 2 years ago
Quoted from spidey:

Try reflowing the solder joints at the pin connectors. My arrows were flickering different colors and this fixed it.

Ok, thank you. I did notice the red and white power plug that goes from the DMD to the power board was slightly loose at the power board. I pushed it in and it seems like it helped. The problem is intermittent and I'm not sure if it's fixed. Reading other forums, I noticed other DMD problems look worse with thick vertical lines going through their DMD. I have small horizontal lines. This might be an indicator that it's a power issue rather than ribbon or DMD issue. Thought I'd pass that on. Not sure

#6037 2 years ago

If the magnet doesn't operate behind the target. It's probably the rear opto, opto board or you put the optos in backwards on the board.

3 months later
#6378 1 year ago
Quoted from mystman12:

So I'm thinking about buying this on the Stern Pinball Arcade, but I have one concern. Is there any swearing on this game? I don't want to buy it if there's any swearing.

There's a setting that will make it more kid friendly and turn the swearing off.
My favorite is "Your mother has a smooth forehead". It's not really swearing, but funny. Klingon II

9 months later
#7074 11 months ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

me and a buddy have Premiums and both seeing auto launch problems, like its getting weaker - anyone seen this- got a fix?

I had to replace the plastic O-rings, located under the play field on the plunger mechanism. I think there is one on each side of the plunger and they are small, like 1/8”.

1 month later
#7111 10 months ago

Great game, I have had issues with the optos. They need to be adjusted, cleaned or replaced every now and again. The one under the ship and warp are kind of a pain. However, it's well worth it. I just put some Blitz wax on my playfield and holy crap, it's super fast.

1 month later
#7135 9 months ago

Get a set of blue Titan rubbers. ST Pro is a little messy with coil/ball dust, black rubbers will just make it worse.

#7137 9 months ago

IMO, you get more control with Titan flipper rubbers than Super Bands. Super Bands tend to be very bouncy, however they last a long time. I use SB's on posts that take a lot of direct ball hits.

#7143 8 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Am also going to be installing new balls and rubbers this week along with a thorough cleaning. Any special tips or things I should be looking out for?

If your going to do a tear down, I'd suggest to replace all your optos. The Vengeance ship and warp are the hardest to get to. The optos are known to go bad and create a lot of issues when they do. They only cost 5 dollars each at Pinball Life.

#7147 8 months ago

I usually save my weapons for Vengeance Multi-ball. That way you can destroy the ship quickly.

1 month later
#7195 7 months ago

Welcome to the club. It's an awesome game and you won't be disappointed.

1 month later
#7388 6 months ago

Are the warp ramp chaser lights always on or just when it's supposed to be shot at for each mode? They look real nice, especially with you enterprise. I'd love to see another pic of that from further away.

#7390 6 months ago

Looks like a cool mod. Is it fairly easy to install? I've had to remove that entire layer of plastics before and it was a pain. I think I had to add a new rivet to the rear plastic.

1 month later
#7519 4 months ago

I just bought an AC/DC translite from Aurich and it looks fantastic. Thank you for your work Auruch!

#7530 4 months ago
Quoted from PWhiz:

Speaking of the speaker decal, mine has the tendency to slightly bubble up in the middle-ish due to a wide range of temperature fluctuation that can't be helped. Hasn't seemed to adversely affect my machines otherwise thankfully. I'd like to find a good solution to better affix the decal with a non-permanent adhesive or something. Thinking something like a 3M contact spray would be a bit much. Anyone got a good idea for a solution?

Can you pop the bubble with a pin and smooth it out?

#7536 4 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

Good alternate translites for both as well

Hey Aurich,
Do you make a Demolition Man translite?

3 weeks later
#7603 3 months ago

Push in the Warp opto plugs & clean your Warp (transmit and receive) opto lenses. If this doesn't work, then replace them. They are very cheap and you can buy them at Pinballlife.com.

1 month later
#7681 45 days ago

Pinball Life has those optos, pretty cheap too.

#7687 44 days ago


These are them. I replace them all when I get a chance. If your removing the ramps, it's good to take the time and switch them out. ST is known for faulty optos and causes a lot of problems. I've changed a bunch out on this machine and POTC. The Warp ramp is a little difficult. I believe I had to rivet 1 or 2 of the plastics.

#7688 44 days ago

Sometimes you can clean them up with a que tip and alcohol. You should check they are lined up too.

#7692 43 days ago

I bought a bunch from Pinlife and never had a problem.

#7694 42 days ago

I can't figure out Pinball Resource. I wish they would revamp their e-commerce site. If I can't find it at Pinball Life, I go to Marcos next. Marcos usually has the better selection, especially for older games.

#7695 42 days ago

I like the Ghost Buster lights at Pin Life too. Except, they do ghost in certain games, haha.

1 week later
#7719 33 days ago

You should definitely take pictures during tear down.

#7722 33 days ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

For sale: Star Trek Pro half assembled.

Haha, lol

#7723 33 days ago

That happens. I just picked up a Super Spin for 100 bucks like that.

#7732 30 days ago
Quoted from Irishbastard:

Curious...What would cause the flippers to completely die for a few seconds during gameplay? Appears to happen once in a blue moon.

Trough switch or trough opto maybe.

1 week later
#7739 19 days ago

I think you'll need to disassemble it from underneath and replace the drop target and ledge that it sits on. Mine used to do that. Fairly common

#7740 19 days ago

The drop target starts to slip, especially on the 2012.

#7742 19 days ago

I don't think it's allowed to drop, unless it's pushed / falls off. You might need to replace the drop target too.

Somewhere in this thread, there was a fix. For me, I replaced both drop and ledge and was ok. Mine would constantly drop with nothing hitting it.

When you put everything back together, make sure you have a maximum ledge.

#7745 19 days ago

I put a red and yellow reflective sticker on my drop target

#7751 17 days ago

It's easy to check your optos. Just put in switch test and put a screw driver through the red beam. It should show up on the switch test. Optos are like 6 bucks at Pinball Life and opto boards are maybe 20 dollars.

#7753 16 days ago

The first one is easy, the other one is difficult. I had to take out the Warp ramp and the plastics to the right of it are difficult. I think I had to remove a rivet holding two plastics together

2 weeks later
#7761 1 day ago
Quoted from Spagano314:

I’m new to the club as of Saturday. I have a quick question. I have level the game perfectly side to side and have the pitch just touching the top middle black line. When the ball comes out of the kickout on the left side, it hits the top of the left pop bumper almost every time. Do I need to adjust the level or is there an easier way to fix this? My machine has new clear titan rubbers on it. I don’t know if that’s an issue. Thanks for any help.

Mine does that too. I've never attempted a fix. There might be a coil adjustment in settings.

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