We're can you find the orange sling shot rubbers for ST Pro. Are they Super Bands. I can't find them anywhere.
Mine hardly ever ejects to the flipper. I've adjusted it many times. It works best for me on high or the ball just bounced off the sling shot. When I have time, I was going to check and see if the eject hole is damaged or cracked. I thought I read a forum mentioning a fix, because something broke.
Quoted from InfiniteLives:
I'm having a weird issue on stern star trek pro where the flipper buttons will sometimes register the bottom center opto target. This makes the drop go up and down in game and give you free shots to the vengeance in vegence modes... no idea what could cause this. I swapped out the opto board and doesn't fix it.
Mine had the same problem. I needed to replace the opto itself, not the board. I ended up replacing all of them under the ship, because I didn't want to do it again. The opts on the right are easy to get to, but the ones on the left are difficult. I started a forum recently that went over some of the problems I had. It was called Star Trek Pro drop target other fixes. Hope this helps.
We'll using my clinometer app on my phone and laying the phone on the glass, I'm at 15.1.
I understand, but for ease of use, transferring incline specs off of the same machine wouldn't going off the glass be easier.
Mine has almost 8000. The playfield is near perfect. I think it still has the original flippers. The only work I've done to it is replace some optos, clean up the plunger, rubbers, lights, Novus and wax.
I'm not the best at fixing machines, but I'd look at the wires that go to your volume controls since that's an area that gets bumped a lot. Also, do you have clutter inside the machine that might have hit something?
I have an old Fire Power II that made a similar sound and I needed to replace the sound board in the back box. That fixed it for me.
Stupid question- does anyone know how to erase extra credits in the machine, besides taking the battery out and doing a complete reset.
Quoted from spidey:
Try reflowing the solder joints at the pin connectors. My arrows were flickering different colors and this fixed it.
Ok, thank you. I did notice the red and white power plug that goes from the DMD to the power board was slightly loose at the power board. I pushed it in and it seems like it helped. The problem is intermittent and I'm not sure if it's fixed. Reading other forums, I noticed other DMD problems look worse with thick vertical lines going through their DMD. I have small horizontal lines. This might be an indicator that it's a power issue rather than ribbon or DMD issue. Thought I'd pass that on. Not sure
If the magnet doesn't operate behind the target. It's probably the rear opto, opto board or you put the optos in backwards on the board.
Quoted from mystman12:
So I'm thinking about buying this on the Stern Pinball Arcade, but I have one concern. Is there any swearing on this game? I don't want to buy it if there's any swearing.
There's a setting that will make it more kid friendly and turn the swearing off.
My favorite is "Your mother has a smooth forehead". It's not really swearing, but funny. Klingon II
Quoted from NeilMcRae:
me and a buddy have Premiums and both seeing auto launch problems, like its getting weaker - anyone seen this- got a fix?
I had to replace the plastic O-rings, located under the play field on the plunger mechanism. I think there is one on each side of the plunger and they are small, like 1/8”.
Great game, I have had issues with the optos. They need to be adjusted, cleaned or replaced every now and again. The one under the ship and warp are kind of a pain. However, it's well worth it. I just put some Blitz wax on my playfield and holy crap, it's super fast.
IMO, you get more control with Titan flipper rubbers than Super Bands. Super Bands tend to be very bouncy, however they last a long time. I use SB's on posts that take a lot of direct ball hits.
Quoted from sataneatscheese:
Am also going to be installing new balls and rubbers this week along with a thorough cleaning. Any special tips or things I should be looking out for?
If your going to do a tear down, I'd suggest to replace all your optos. The Vengeance ship and warp are the hardest to get to. The optos are known to go bad and create a lot of issues when they do. They only cost 5 dollars each at Pinball Life.
I usually save my weapons for Vengeance Multi-ball. That way you can destroy the ship quickly.
Are the warp ramp chaser lights always on or just when it's supposed to be shot at for each mode? They look real nice, especially with you enterprise. I'd love to see another pic of that from further away.
Looks like a cool mod. Is it fairly easy to install? I've had to remove that entire layer of plastics before and it was a pain. I think I had to add a new rivet to the rear plastic.
I just bought an AC/DC translite from Aurich and it looks fantastic. Thank you for your work Auruch!
Quoted from PWhiz:
Speaking of the speaker decal, mine has the tendency to slightly bubble up in the middle-ish due to a wide range of temperature fluctuation that can't be helped. Hasn't seemed to adversely affect my machines otherwise thankfully. I'd like to find a good solution to better affix the decal with a non-permanent adhesive or something. Thinking something like a 3M contact spray would be a bit much. Anyone got a good idea for a solution?
Can you pop the bubble with a pin and smooth it out?
Push in the Warp opto plugs & clean your Warp (transmit and receive) opto lenses. If this doesn't work, then replace them. They are very cheap and you can buy them at Pinballlife.com.
These are them. I replace them all when I get a chance. If your removing the ramps, it's good to take the time and switch them out. ST is known for faulty optos and causes a lot of problems. I've changed a bunch out on this machine and POTC. The Warp ramp is a little difficult. I believe I had to rivet 1 or 2 of the plastics.
Sometimes you can clean them up with a que tip and alcohol. You should check they are lined up too.
I can't figure out Pinball Resource. I wish they would revamp their e-commerce site. If I can't find it at Pinball Life, I go to Marcos next. Marcos usually has the better selection, especially for older games.
I like the Ghost Buster lights at Pin Life too. Except, they do ghost in certain games, haha.
I think you'll need to disassemble it from underneath and replace the drop target and ledge that it sits on. Mine used to do that. Fairly common
I don't think it's allowed to drop, unless it's pushed / falls off. You might need to replace the drop target too.
Somewhere in this thread, there was a fix. For me, I replaced both drop and ledge and was ok. Mine would constantly drop with nothing hitting it.
When you put everything back together, make sure you have a maximum ledge.
It's easy to check your optos. Just put in switch test and put a screw driver through the red beam. It should show up on the switch test. Optos are like 6 bucks at Pinball Life and opto boards are maybe 20 dollars.
The first one is easy, the other one is difficult. I had to take out the Warp ramp and the plastics to the right of it are difficult. I think I had to remove a rivet holding two plastics together
Quoted from Spagano314:
I’m new to the club as of Saturday. I have a quick question. I have level the game perfectly side to side and have the pitch just touching the top middle black line. When the ball comes out of the kickout on the left side, it hits the top of the left pop bumper almost every time. Do I need to adjust the level or is there an easier way to fix this? My machine has new clear titan rubbers on it. I don’t know if that’s an issue. Thanks for any help.
Mine does that too. I've never attempted a fix. There might be a coil adjustment in settings.
There's a screw next to where your ball gets stuck and the pop bumper. It's been awhile, but I think it just screws into your playfield. Back it off a little until the ball doesn't get stuck anymore.
You don't need a sleeve. Put a 1/4 screw with a round top directly into the table
Quoted from pkrobin:
Regarding the pop bumper ball trap. I definitely didn't need to remove a ramp for access. Don't remember probably just a small screwdriver, or even sometimes I just use the bit itself and a little crescent wrench to turn it. That said it's not the hardest ramp to remove if you had to.
The point of the felt pad is probably so the screw doesn't damage the ball. I hadn't seen that idea so I used one of those little screw hider plugs you use in Cabinetry, I had some around and it sort of mushroomed up when tightened to mostly cover the screw so shouldn't be any metal on metal and no loose screws.
My concern with backing the screw out as suggested is the ball will hit it more solidly and could wiggle it enough to make the hole bigger over time.
My fix has been perfect but only in place 100 games or so. Not a single stuck ball.
I only had to unscrew it a 1/4 - 1/2 turn and it completely fixed my problem. I did this maybe 3 years ago.
Quoted from Zitt:
Not true. This started as one group to service them all... then someone started an STNG group... and then another a DEST group.
I'm not sure anyone has started a BallyST Group.
Today I got a new garage door installed; and while moving machines (packed in PinArmor -except the ballys which don't have pinarmor which fits) - I accidentally hit my Bally ST too hard/too close and tipped it over on the head. I screamed and expected a shattered Backglass or worse. Turns out - the Pinball Gods must have been smiling on me because it managed to knock the top wood "channel" off WITHOUT shattering the Backglass.
I'll post pictures later; but right now the top wood is clamped for Gorilla Glue.
It could have been MUCH worse; I'm so glad I can fix this with some glue, paint, and wood putty.
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