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Quoted from Pahuffman:How does the playfield look?
Not great. This deal has been in the works a while. That's why I've been looking for options and putting the bug in the hard top guy's ear lol. Some areas, the paint flakes right off by rubbing your finger over it.
IMG_20191104_202318_01 (resized).jpgIMG_20191104_202318_02 (resized).jpg
Also made a thread asking for opinions on how to save the backglass.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-star-trek-early-production-backglass-in-need-of-help
Quoted from Pahuffman:That's not surprising. These things are almost always blown out. Yours isn't as bad as a lot of others. You just have to get really luck or spend a lot of money to get a nice one - sometimes both. A Hardtop would be awesome, but I saw where he mentioned licensed games are probably a long ways off unfortunately.
I saw that too, but they offer licensed titles already. FG and EK are 3rd party licenses. Unless they aren't paying those 3rd parties. IF I can clean this PF without losing much more paint, I'll try my hand at some touchup and see how I do. Got a plan on the backglass that has worked for others, so I'm optimistic on that front.
Could still use this piece in my earlier post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-clubmembers-only/page/158#post-5293634
Would also like to grab used left sling and the 2 right side pieces that show the bald lady if anyone has used ones intact.
I found and purchased a much nicer playfield today. Just missing some paint in the standard middle area and at the kick out hole. This should be easily touched up and won't have that sever paint flaking issue.
Looking to replace every insert in a Bally Star Trek with clear. Not finding clear jeweled inserts for the smallest ones. The ones in the bonus ladder area in the tractor beam. Anyone have leads or am I stuck with white non jeweled?
Quoted from Zitt:I think you're SOL. Someone else was looking for those small inserts can couldn't even find the basic colors.
Have you considered some laser cut jobs? Something like
I did on STMU?
I hadn't thought of that. Thanks for the suggestion.
Quoted from drfrightner:Just opened it LAST NIGHT... awesome game. It's amazing looking.
Dude I upload them they automatically do that... is there a way to fix them?
After you upload, you can rotate them by hovering over each one and clicking the icon that looks like a circle with arrows. Seems they almost always upload sideways for me these days. Didn't used to do that. You can also edit your post and hover over them and fix them.
Quoted from Zitt:Unlikely a real proto bg... probably a CPR repo.
That said; my Bally has a real set of prototype plastics that I acquired by pure accident on a TPF swap meet playfield.
The PF was shot; but the plastics were nice. I didn't even realize they were proto until I compared against my original.
Mine is real, but has seen better days. Repaired with super glue, but needs a little more love. Also have prototype plastics and playfield but my playfield is a goner. I was testing the repair in my Harlem in this pic.
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Quoted from Scoot:I recently noticed one of my inserts will not produce the color red. I contacted stern on their website but had no response. Is this something I can fix myself? Purchased second hand.
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Those little boards have 4 wires. 1 for ground and 1 for each or R/G/B. Double check that the wire hasn't pulled away before paying for a new one.
Quoted from zephee:Just to follow up on my laser issue as I was able to fix it. It really was not the angle of the laser (though it was off), it was the laser itself. I took off the apron and was able to verify the laser motor worked fine. Turns out there is a button on the laser mechanism that is being held down by a clamp. That button depresses another button inside the mechanism that 'powers' the laser. It needs to be depressed when the motor spins in order for the laser to shine.
Anyway, it turned out the outer button that is held down by the clamp was broken. It was knocked loose somehow and was not able to depress the inner button while clamped. I had to jury rig it. I just put in the end of a tie rap over the inner button and put the clamp down on that to get it to work.
Seems like a silly system to have since the two buttons are always pressed down.
Fixed now though so think i will enjoy the laser show a few times before tackling my shaker motor problem.
Thanks
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If your game is 5 days out of box, you should not be rigging anything. Stern should send you the correct and working part if you call them.
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