How long do you guys think Stern is going to be selling ST? Pretty sure I want to get one but need to clear year end expenses first. I don't want to wait too long then find out they are no longer available new.
I had a chance to play an excellent modded STTNG this weekend. Wow, what a game! I've never really been a fan of the show so never really payed attention to it. Since I liked the new ST so much and this one looked awesome with leds and color dmd, I had to give it a try. Like the new ST, I was hooked right from the start and quickly learned how to play it. Loved the dual cannons and variety of targets. Loved the choices you get on ball launch and all the different modes. Not so happy about the blackhole like side drains. I still prefer the new ST, though. Hopefully, I can be a member of the club next year.
New member checking in - got ST Pro in the house! It's my 2nd pin and 1st NIB. So excited! I tried out a lot of other pins, including all the new Sterns, but ST is still my favorite by a long shot. The leds, the sounds, and smooth gameplay make for one incredible experience playing it. I got the basics of the rules but still a lot to learn.
I had a great game tonight and got 134,293,110. I'm still not sure about rules and scoring. I just go for lit shots and vengeance. That's what I like about ST - classic pinball hitting ramps, pop bumpers, and targets. Multiball is fairly easy to get to and you don't get punished for every missed shot. Even when I have a bad game, it's still fun.
Quoted from Kcbbq13:
I've been having a few issues with drop target since updating the latest code, but just got an error last night... Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
20150104_182716.jpg 227 KB
Does the center drop target function okay? Some guys had trouble with it and posted fixes earlier in this thread. Something about it sticking.
Funny thing happened last night. My ST stopped serving balls in a multiball and went into ball search mode. All the balls were in the trough and all the switches was working. I was getting pretty upset that my brand new pin stopped working but then I figured it out. A bulb popped out of one of the spot lamps and got stuck in the trough. Doh
I've been playing for a week or so but can't figure out what the Captain's Chair means when it is flashing. Is that related to the middle shot being lit to activate a Vengeance mode?
Quoted from Arcade:
I believe Captains chair pertains to 3 in a row complete. Flashes during Super ramps, pops and spinner.
Okay. I thought it meant there was shot to do something..
Quoted from Nokoro:
Good fix for the bulb popping out of the spotlight is a dab of hot glue at the point where the bulb touches the saucer.
Not a big fan of hot glue but might have to do that.
Anyone install the cliffy protector for the lock on a pro? I have one and looks like you have to take a lot off the playfield to install it. Is there an easy way to get it installed?
I think I have blue putty around the house so will try that. Glue is just too messy. I had an insert bulb that also gave me trouble right off the bat. I had to fiddle with it three separate times to get it to stay lit. It's annoying but if that all the trouble I have for a long time I will be happy.
I had trouble with nero3 and now I see why. Game just gets better and better as I learn more about it.
The best I would say is the Papa tutorial on youtube even though it is old code.
Quoted from Nokoro:
I've been wanting to rewatch Star Trek and Star Trek: Into Darkness since owning the pin. The other night, I just noticed ST on TV so I recorded it, and I also learned that Netflix is streaming STID. I'm psyched to watch the movies again and listen for all of the call outs. Perhaps there is a drinking game to be had in all of this . . . .
I think owning ST has made me more of a fan. Love all the sounds and call outs. I saw the first ST movie but never bothered with the 2nd. Now I really want to see it. I am going to look for it on Netflix!
Quoted from Kahanaohana:
man im pumped i shattered my old high score today, i got 301mil, 1 mission away from EA, i love this game.
Wow. I got 130m not too long after getting mine but can't get no where near it since. I finally had a pretty good game yesterday at 97m but that was with a lot of free balls. The balls seems to love draining now and I barely make any progress. One of the frustrating things is when the left ball lock bounces the ball of the top of the left sling and then straight down the right drain.
Quoted from Zitt:
So imagine my utter disgust when I sat down on opening wkend after putting my PERSONAL machines in several Alamo draft houses to collect money during this obvious Block Buster... I was red faced mad that JJ had took an awesome story line like WOK and just ruined it... he basically painted a slight different tint over a movie that was made 30 years ago... with the same title Star Trek 2. Darkness... yeah in my soul... because I probably would have beat him senseless for that travesty.
Off my soap box.
I'm not that serious about movies. I don't really care about how things are changed or how original the story is. If the movie is well done and entertaining then I like it. I feel the same way about pins. I don't care who designed it, who made it, what the theme is, or any of the drama created by over zealous fans. If it is fun to play then I like it.
Quoted from wheels:
On my STLE, my manual plunger is barely able to contact the ball and it barely moves when it does. I have to use the Fire button. Anyone else have this problem? I confirmed that all the screws are in tight on the assembly underneath the playfield. The top of the manual plunger does graze the automatic plunger assembly, which I've noticed is different that the other Sterns I have including ACDC. Any thoughts?
Have you got under the playfield to investigate? I would put a ball in place and see what it is doing. Maybe it just needs an adjustment.
Question about PD2 mode - is there a pattern or something other than just making lit shots to complete the mode? I usually try to complete all the level 1 modes first but now I am doing columns to explore the level 2 and 3 modes. In PD2, I am making good shots but the mode suddenly ends in a relatively short time. I think I finished the mode but on the next mission start, PD2 is still available. When I start it again, I usually just have to make one or two shots and then it is complete. It seems like I have to make a series of specific shots in a short time and it saves your progress. Am I missing something?
Quoted from spidey:
You're just not completing the mode in time. It has a 30 second timer by default which is pretty short for most mortals. There's only one PD timer in the adjustments and it's for all 3 PD modes, so 60 seconds is great for PD2/3 but makes PD1 a bit long especially if you get GAT lanes. I'd recommend somewhere between 45-60 seconds, with longer times if you want a shot at completing PD3.
Cool, thanks for the tip. I thought there was more to it than that. You have to make every shot in the game with no time to miss a shot. I am definitely changing that timer.
I like playing columns instead of rows. Game seems more interesting that way and easier to get points.
Anyone else have the metal guide bending back? Only had the game for a month and just noticed it. I'm not sure if it makes the shot harder - always a tough one for me. Sometimes the balls does bounce around and not sit but that is rare.
Also, my drop target is getting stubborn about registering direct, hard hits. Soft hits even if it's just a touch always work. I read that the spring might be responsible for this. Is that right?
Quoted from Bricarus:
I have the same issue with the drop target. Soft and/or off center hits work fine, but hard center hits don't drop the target.
My drop target drops fine from what I can tell. My issue was that it does not detect hits when you need to hit a bunch of times to drop or a shot in one of the modes. I suppose it's all related but from I have read there is a spring you can play with to resolve some of these issues. I'm just not sure if that has to do with the up/down mechanism or registering hits.
Quoted from spidey:
One thing I noticed in your pic is the lane guide for the spinner lane, just to the right of the standup target. It looks like that on yours, a ball rolling back down the lane would miss the target. Is that correct? On my LE, the lane guide fits slightly behind the target and if the speed of the ball is just right, it will deflect off the standup and head STDM. Just wondering if there's a physical difference there between the Pro and the Pre/LE.
I don't think there are any physical differences in the playfield. The angle I took the pic probably makes it look different. I don't have the problem of the ball catching on the target on the way down. Is yours bent? You can probably adjust it a little.
Congrats! Aurich just started a new run so contact him quick if you want one. I got one on order and can't wait to get it. The shaker motor is another great mod and easy to install - all plug and play.
Quoted from playernumber4:
I don't have that, but my posts in front of the warp ramp are bent and had to be replaced. That upper flipper needs to be turned down in power. Also....a buddy mentioned that there is no EOS switch on that upper flipper. WTF???
My top flipper is strong but I it has to be to get the ball up the warp ramp. Those post rubbers look beat but not sure that has anything with them getting bent. Mine wore fast and had one break weeks after I got the machine. I went with clear super band mini post rubbers. They look much better and I expect them to last longer than stock rubber.
Quoted from trickpony:
I have superbands (blue) on the flippers and really like them. I have changed the easy to get to post rubbers with superbands and I really like the way they look and that they (so far) dont shred but around the outlanes they same too bouncy to the point of cheating ().
I did the same exact same - blue on the bottom two and red up top. They do feel different but I think I play the same with them. Perhaps the original rubbers are a little better but I really like how the super bands hold up and love the colors.
The super band mini's on the posts are a must around the warp ramp. I used the clear ones and want to replace all of them eventually. I totally agree that around the outlanes they are very bouncy.
I'm starting to a crack in the corner of the alpha ramp. Is this common? It's not very noticeable but wondering what I can do about it. I can live with it but don't want it to get worse.
Nice mods Rensh. I had not seen those cool sling protectors before. Had to get myself a pair. Sadly, I just noticed that both my sling plastics have cracked at the skinny part next to the spotlight. Why did they make it so thin right there where it is most vulnerable? Oh well, should be hard to see once I get my new sling protectors. I wouldn't mind getting those ramp protectors - anyone in the states selling them?
I finally beat my high score a couple of days ago - got 143m. That was a fun game. Of course, after that I could barely break 10m per game. In one game, I thought I saw broken plastic pieces in front of the left sling. I then saw a screw and quickly turned off the game. It was in the middle of a multiball so everything got knocked around. Nothing was broken so I don't know what that was. I did find the screw in the trough so maybe it was just that. The screw was from the tip of the left ramp where it bolts to the sling. I must of forgot to tighten it when I last worked on it or else the shaker motor worked it loose.
Question for ST owners - When a ball is locked behind the drop target in the Vengeance and you hit the flippers, the score goes up a little. During Vengeance battle, the game seems to make sounds as if it's registering hits. Everything plays fine everything looks fine in the test menu. Is this normal? One of my boys actually discovered this. I found him hammering on the flippers as he was trying to squeeze out the points. Minor thing but curious if something needs to be tweaked.
As suspected, hitting the flippers with the ball in the vengeance registers hits. During vengeance battle, I can just hit the flippers a bunch of times and finish the mode before the drop target drops. Anyone now of a way to fix this?
Quoted from 85vett:
Don't hit the flippers?
Seriously though, I don't have that issue with mine so I wonder if your opto's may be a bit lose and the vibration from the coil is causing them to think the beam is being broken? Check the rear opto's as well as the front.
I poked around a little bit tonight but cannot find anything wrong. In the switch test menu, everything works as it should. Flippers only activate their switches and both optos work perfectly by themselves. Obviously I can just avoid hitting the flippers but I still would like to know what's going on.
I bought the game Jan 1 and it does have the latest code. I will double check it this weekend but I remember making sure it had 1.5 when I bought it. In testing, I did try to hold a ball in the beam and hit the flippers but that worked fine. I just cannot see how the beam of light could get around the ball that is clearly blocking the path. The optos seem to work perfectly otherwise and recognize the ball at the right times. Sometimes the drop target does not catch a ball in time but that seems to be a common issue. If there was a flaky connection I would think there would be all kinds of issues in gameplay. I am going to email Stern support and see what they have to say.
Quoted from PWhiz:
I can get the score to increment by hitting the flippers. Doesn't matter which one. Ball doesn't have to be in play. 3 in the trough, one in the shooter lane, although eventually it may do a ball check unless it is in mission select mode. Then a flipper press will choose a mission because something is triggering a score.
Mine only increments the score with the ball in the vengeance with the drop down up. In the switch test, everything works fine - even with the drop down target up. The score looks like it goes up about 10k per flipper hit during a lock and counts for a vengeance shot during battle.
Installed the pinbits sling covers today. I hated the stock metal washers. Clear washers were better but I still didn't like the look of washers sticking out of the corners. Plus they only protected the corners. These look way better, protect better, and capture the light - pretty cool. I guess they were made for LE/premium because they didn't have a cutout for the spotlight wires. No big deal. I made one myself with a drill and files. The sling protectors are also thick so not a lot of threads left to grab onto. I had to do away with a few washers to get things back together. Just thought I would post that info in case someone else with a pro was thinking of getting these.
Yeah, novus is for cleaning plastics. The higher the number the more aggressive it is. I do use novus1 to clean playfields, though. You want a carnauba wax without cleaners or anything else in it. You wipe it on, let it dry to a haze, and then wipe it off Karate Kid style. Smells awesome, too. I have not waxed ST - heard you don't really need to do it to modern playfields. I waxed my Getaway earlier this year. Played crazy fast to where it was almost unplayable but lots of fun.
Quoted from epotech:
took mine apart last weekend to finally fix the ball sticking on the magnet and also the double flipping triggering in vengance 2. here's my observations as i can't find the other thread.
Tried all the usual twisting wires & swapping boards. here's what i did
Removed the guides with the opto's attached, reflowed the solder but noticed that one of the mountings was not at 90 degrees and therefore not correctly aiming the opto. this pretty much fixed the sticking ball issue but i found improvement by going into game settings #2 and setting disable magnet to yes. Bizarrely it doesn't disable it but appears to let go properly in vengance.
Went into switch test and mashed the flippers, you could see the bottom opto sometimes briefly triggering. It looks like it's the connector end as the don't securely fit. Took the board off and mounted it on rubbers which has fixed it. Seems a vibration issue.
All working now for the first time since i unboxed it!
Thanks for the info. How hard is it to take all that apart?
Follow up on my issue with flipper hits trigger bottom vengeance opto with ball lock: I called Stern and they suggested checking the wiring. They mentioned something about bending the prongs on the board that the opto connects to under the playfield. I suppose the idea is that it's a loose connection and bending them will help create a tighter fit. I checked all that and the connections seem pretty solid to me. I rerouted some of the wires away from the magnet thinking maybe that might be something. After all the fiddling, I still have the issue. Stern mentioned the only other option is replacing parts but don't feel like going down that road over a minor issue.
On the positive side, I've been getting better and beat my high score several times the last week or so. Yesterday I got 162m and 24 warp shots. I was killing it with combos - love this game!
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:
I then looked at the opto set at the front of that magnet entrance/shot, tweaked them so a better beam was present and I haven't had a single issue in months, hundreds of games, no more flipper scoring during vengeance, in fact, no more sticking balls either!
I believe it is because the holes in the metal the beam passes through can slightly block its path if it's not sitting just right. I think the true fix for this is to drill the holes slightly larger.
Glad you fixed your problems. How did you tweak them?
I had a led go out in one of the pops so I swapped it with a comet ice blue 1 smd led. It looked so much better so I replaced all of them. Gives off a rich blue color instead of a pale blue. I also put red LEDs in the coin door. Looks a lot better since the top button and dmd is red. Anyone do any other led swaps?
Quoted from jfh:
Although it's not a fair comparison, the ColorDMD set to blue on my LE was far more pleasing to the eye than the harsh dots on the factory display.
I can agree to that. The red in all Stern's displays are so harsh. I actually prefer the Orange in older games. You would think we could at least choose a few colors or have full color by now. Good thing we should get colordmd support soon.
Jfh - love your game room!
I watched ST: Into the Darkness last night on Netflix. Great movie! I'm not tied to the past and like the reboot stuff. Actors do a good job and I think they have nice chemistry. Nice to finally see what all the modes and callouts are about. My favorite are the rants of Admiral Marcus in the start of Vengeance MB. I also thought it was funny that the "are you drunk" call out is actually from the movie. S. Ritchie and Stern did a great job using so much from the movie.
I also had my best game ever on ST last night and got 232m. I have been using some of the strategies mentioned here by going for ramp multipliers first. My personal goal when I first got it was to get over 200m. I guess my next goal is to get to Amok and 5 yr mission. I keep liking this pin more and more!
The dmd glare always bothered me on my ST. For $16, I figured it was worth trying Comet's glare eliminator and glad I did. I knew it was supposed to work but cool to see it for myself. Now I can see the vengeance and back of the game without that annoying dmd reflection. Installation was a breeze - it just sticks to the front of the speaker panel and perfectly inside Aurich's decal. It does dim the dmd a bit and gives it a matte finish. A plus for me because I think the dmd was too bright and harsh to begin with. Pic makes the dmd look orange but it's still red.
Quoted from CosmosBandit:
Wicked. I need that too. Does it come off easy if you don't like it?
Yeah, it is just a thin piece of plastic with double sided tape on the left/right edges. It would be super easy to remove and transfer to another game - might have to change out the double sided tape, though. It does have a little thickness to it. It mounted flush with Aurich's speaker panel decal.
It appears the latest code has fixed my little problem with the flippers activating the bottom opto during a ball lock/vengeance battles. It's hard to tell if the scoring is going up by the flippers like before because there is usually something other than the score on the screen when a ball is behind the drop target. During vengeance battles, I cannot activate hits by the flippers before the ball drops like before. I don't know how it would of been fixed but it seems to be.
I can check mine later. First thought is that those circuits are not used or not active at that time - no current.
Quoted from Nokoro:
I think you mean the Galatic Away Team mission for Nero1. That's one of my favorites. Normally I hit the red matter targets when I brick the regular shots. During that mode, I actually aim for them. Of course, that is inevitably when I can't help but hit every ramp perfectly. Go figure.
Ain't that the truth. Double scoring should be renamed "time to suck really hard and drain in less than a minute" on my machine.
You need to get 1.61 since it fixes major bugs. Good score, though. Double scoring really can pay off. I like to go for double scoring right before Kobi Mary. If you do well on medals, scoring is huge.
Recently noticed my right flipper buzzes a little. Not sure about the left or how long it has been doing it. Thought that was normal for Stern pins. Is it a sign of a problem?
I have the same led issue with some of the inserts. Not sure what to say. I had to get under the playfield and adjust the wires to get one to light just the other day. I also have a slight flipper buzz but I don't hear it with a normal volume setting. From what others say, it is normal so I am not worried about it.
I don't think the warp ramp is hard to adjust with a long screwdriver - at least on my pro. On mine, I believe it is adjusted all the way to the right. The ball should feed right to the upper flipper. I can get 4-5 consecutive warp shots no problem. Sometimes the ball gets bouncing around when it's going fast and has a wicked spin.
Hitting the mission start is difficult. I find it easier hitting the left lock shot by controlling the ball and hitting it off the end of the flipper. After a lot of plays, it does get easier. I think you will also appreciate more of the gameplay features with more practice. On the surface, modes appear repititive but there are different patterns and different scoring strategies to explore. Once you get better at the away team shot, that kind change up the level1 modes as well.
I enjoyed the game from day1. However, with the update and a better understanding of the details of the rules, I find if much more satisfying to play today. There are so many scoring opportunities and different ways to play.
Don't worry about the fast gameplay and drains. It will slow down and get back to normal after a few plays. I waxed my Getaway and it was almost unplayable for a while. It was fast to begin with but after the wax you had barely any time to react. I can't imagine waxing ST and getting those kinds of speed. Someday I will give it a go.
Unless you have cash to burn, pro is the smart choice imo. The premium is all cosmetics - expensive cosmetics at that. I actually prefer the color led's in the pro instead of all color changers and the plastic ramps. With the help of Aurich's translite/decals and a few mods, my pro looks like a premium for way less. I suppose the premium will probably do better when it comes time to sell but I don't worry about those kinds of things. Buy a pro, get the mods you like, and enjoy.
Quoted from MustangPaul:
Oh if you want to see those mini domes light up try the Crystal Fans in them. I did on my Pro and wow they look great. Don't know if he has Ice Blue in Fans though.
I wish there was ice blue crystals - love the color. I have red crystals in the pops on my Getaway and love them. When I get enough of an order to justify shipping, I will try some crystals in ST. Seems like I always need a dollar or so in parts but never a bunch at once. When I do order, I then remember a few things I forgot. Frustrating.
I put on the same clear super post rubbers. They look perfect, stay clean, and more important don't break. The are super bouncy, though.
The update certainly did create a buzz for the game. More than a few did voice concern over the code in the past so wouldn't be surprised if there was a spike in sales. If they can get more updates out for even older games, I bet their sales would pick up with people gaining confidence that Stern is focused on making things right.
In the future, it would sure be nice to have a larger color display divided in two. Info like score, multipliers, timers, double scoring, shots left, ball locks, etc. get displayed on one part of the display and all animations on another part. That way you can look up and get any important info instantly and still have fun with animations for all things. I still don't understand how Stern can put in such crude displays that have been in use for 25 years in new games. My stupid old phone has a better display than the ST I bought this year.
All the inserts light at different parts of the game. It's part of the light show. The extra ball also is like this. Just because it lights for a brief second, doesn't mean you can get an extra ball. It has to be stuck on. Ball save is only on at ball launch, mb start, and add ball.
Quoted from MustangPaul:
Hey thanks, with 16 games I just can't keep all the rules straight, I don't even pretend to understand them.
LOL - talk about first world problems. I don't know where I would keep so many pins. Maybe when all my kids move out I can turn the entire upstairs to a gameroom. By then I will be broke and pins will probably cost three times as much.
Quoted from locdb:
I've had the pin (ST Pro) for about a week now and I just want to go on record and say that I really, really, really suck at hitting the warp ramp. My best is 3 ...total ...in one game (3 balls) ...and that's only happened once. My high game is currently 45,462,700. I'm mostly in the 20's. Sigh. I wish I was as good as you guys! I still love it and will keep trying to improve. The fast balls that don't register on the vengeance drop target hurt for sure. Maybe I need to adjust my flipper strength - everything is still factory settings.
Don't worry. It takes a lot of practice to get that warp ramp shot and to learn the game in general. I have some good games now and then but mostly mediocre ones. The drop target issue is common on all Stern games from what I understand. There are ways to try and fix it but it seems like the problem returns after a while. It doesn't happen too often on mine and I just deal with it. It's not a difficult shot so I can usually make another shot quickly.
Updates are always cool but I am pretty happy with 1.61. I have had a few issues of not being able to start a mode but have not noticed any other bugs. It would be nice to see better black hole awards and improvements to vengeance modes. Making it easier to start a mode would also be a huge plus but understand that would be difficult. It sounds like TWD could use an update a lot more than ST at this point.
52? Anyone have more warps? My best is 27. Hitting the warp ramp on cue is tough. I can hit it during gameplay now and then but tough when you really need it. Sometimes you can kind of craddle the ball with the third flipper or knock it up a little bit to get an easy shot. Going for the warp ramp on every ball launch is a good way to practice. You can get a nice skill shot award if you do it right. I feel pretty good when I get that.
Quoted from Eskaybee:
Have to share moment. Just defeated the vengeance 3 for 105mil! I had double scoring going and wussed out on the chance to combo it for a 40% score. Decided to take the conservative shot for 20%. Love this game.
It's pretty cool how a few planned shots can blow up the score. I tried something similar the other day to combo the final vengeance shot. Not easy. I ended up draining and loosing a lot of points. Hard to be mad because I was getting greedy.
I think that is what really puts ST over the top. At every point in the game, there are different ways to score. You can play it safe and just go for what is lit or add risk by going for a combo shot or warp 2x. The more I play ST the more I like it.
^^^ That's a lot of setup. I can get a decent score but still have not made it to EA wizard mode yet. I sometimes go for KB 1-3 first but most of the time I just go for completing all lv1 modes. It's more rewarding to do that than to just finish random modes. My focus is on smaller goals like trying to get warp 2x at the best time, playing out gat, and doing well in mb. When I do those decently, I can get a pretty good score (350-400m) without playing out too many modes.
Quoted from Aurich:
Heh, thanks man. Honestly I bought the game wanting to do new art for it, so even if I let it go it was worth it. Fun project. I even beat Stern to the punch with full color speaker decals for that style backbox!
I waxed ST the other day. I didn't take anything apart but did wax the ramps as well. Plays so fast I can barely keep up and a lot more side drains. It's hard to get a good score but did get 38m in one mode with gat and no multipliers. I was nailing the spinner and warp combo over and over. That was fun.
Quoted from ectobar:
Got my first billion!
2X into KM ~ 160m
EA ~ 150m
Beat Vengeance 3 for the first time ~ 150m
Had 2 ball bonuses each ~ 100m+
Still didn't reach 5Y. Had 3 modes left. What an awesome game
Nice work. I can't even get half that score or get to amok. I find it kind of odd you have not beat vengeance3 before with a score like that. The hard thing for me is to hold it off until I get a decent score and then try to do sudden death on a combo. Otherwise it's just a handful of shots up the middle and not a huge payout.
Quoted from tdiddy:
What color super bands is everyone rocking on the flippers on the LE? I'm thinking of going with blue, and clear for everything else. Any pictures out there?
The clear post rubbers look really good and hold up well. I did have one break by the vengeance but the rest still look brand new. I used blue on the lower flippers and red on the upper flipper. I've been thinking of trying the Titan rubbers, though. Sounds like they perform a little better.
Anyone lose music after Kobayashi Maru? It just keeps playing the weird, spacy sounds and does not change when playing lv2 modes. It happened before and happened again this weekend. I think what happened was I entered Kobayashi Maru, skipped the intro, and drained without finishing. Music was jacked up until I drained again.
Having the magnet hold the balls for locks is a great idea. I notice my game fails to catch the ball a lot after the update.
I think I will switch to titan rubbers. I like the super bands but I do get a lot of crazy spin. Anyone try titan post rubbers? I have clear super post rubbers. They look great but might be a little to bouncy.
He is talking about the ball coming out of the pops, not the warp. Mine follows the side and gives you a good shot at warp. If yours doesn't, check if the playfield is level.
Quoted from Jeekayjay:
Actually my warp ramp is not smooth either and that was going to be my next question
Going to fiddle a bit...
I've played with mine a few times and it's hard to get perfect. Often the ball comes out of the warp with a lot of spin/force and is all over the place. I'm wondering if that has to do with the super bands since many claim you get more ball spin with them.
For ST owners:
I decided to do something about the stubborn drop target. Most of the time it works but quite often it did not register hard hits. Common Stern issue. I didn't mind when it failed to register one hit here and there but it was getting 4-5 times in a row. I scanned old threads and found something that seems to work. Supposedly, a red spring is suppose to be used instead of the blue/purple one like I have. Not sure about that but the easy fix is to just extend the spring out a bit and attach it a quarter inch or so short. Pic borrowed from the following thread about Metallica but exactly what I did. It worked perfectly with all type of hits for several games. True test will be over many games but figured I would share for those looking to try something.
Ramps cracking/chipping at the edges are common. As far as I know, the only solution is the freddy protectors. You can get them off ebay. Stock post rubbers don't last long around the warp ramp. Replace them with clear super mini posts for longer life and better looks. There are many issues with the drop target like not registering hits, not moving up/down, and more. Fixes involve adding washers and spring adjustments.
Quoted from Fresh_Wax:
The clear coat cracked where the ball kept dropping from the right beta ramp. At least it did on mine. I looked, and I don't have or didn't take pictures of it. But the slot was definitively starting to get beat up after about a 1000 or so plays.. It was bad enough for me to purchase two slot protectors.
I checked my pro last night and noticed the same thing - cracking in the clear coat where the ball drops on the rollover switch area. It's pretty hard to notice unless you are looking for it up close. I suspect it can only get worse over time.
No grand score for me recently but I did put on mirror blades from pinballsidemirrors.com this week. Looks awesome. My kids were away at camp and when they got back my boys mentioned the game look different. They said it looked brighter or something like that but couldn't figure out what I did until I told them. You forget they are there and the game just shines. I also put on a custom shooter rod from mezelmods. Quality is not all that great but still better than stock.
Quoted from Captain_Kirk:
Been thinking about this myself, but was worried about room. It seems like such a tight fit. How was it turned out for you? Any scratching? Did you have to slide the playfield any? Might doesn't seem to budge.
It seemed like there was plenty of room on mine. I can slide the playfield over side to side what seems like a decent amount. The blades were a little thicker than I expected but I guess they need to be for strength. Putting them in was super easy but it is a tight fit with both in. You have to be slow and careful when raises and lowering the playfield. Not easy with the Stupid Stern system where you have to lift the back while sliding it back in. I had a few scuffs after lowering the playfield but everything looked good after a little hand polish.
Anyone replace all the rubbers in a ST pro? Looks like some of mine are about to go and going to replace all of them with Titan rubbers. The manual is confusing. The rubber part list and diagram don't match up. It says there are 6 of the 3/16" (#13) but I only count 4 in the picture. The picture also shows different rubber sizes for the top of the multiplier lane than bottom. Looks the same to me and maybe that has something to do with the count. Also what is the size of the rubber to the left of the right ramp entrance? The picture says it's a 1 1/4" but the list does not have a quantity count for that. There is a 1 1/2" in the list that is not accounted for in the picture. Which is it? I could buy extras to make sure I have everything but hate wasting money on stuff I don't need.
Quoted from Nokoro:
jawjaw, I'm so glad you posted this. I've replaced the ring to the left of the right ramp three times now, and it keeps splitting. The last one I got was from Titan, and I thought that would be better, but after a couple of weeks, it started to split as well. I was wondering if I went a size up if it would help. From what you write, I bet the thing was mislabeled, and it really should be 1 1/2". Frustrating that the manufacturer can't get such a simple thing right.
Separately, it would be great if you could post about how this goes for you. How difficult or easy was it to do a full shop? Were there any difficulties or lessons learned for us who want to attempt it ourselves. Did you have to remove everything or only a few things?
I want to get clear rings for ST and for my Getaway but Titan is out of stock of those in some of the sizes. When I get the rings, I don't know if I will have time to do a full shop and don't know if I can stop playing lol. It looks like the right ramp will need to come off but the rest doesn't look to bad.
The blue plastic cover for one of the multiplier lanes broke on my ST pro. The side section that protects the bulb broke off. Anyone know where I can buy a replacement? I can't find it listed anywhere, even in the manual.
*Edit* - Figured it out. In case anyone wants to know it's part# 550-5061-05.
Quoted from PWhiz:
I need a bit of help with my extra ball settings. At some point I know I had the replay reward set to extra balls with a fixed setting of 4 intervals. The scores were set reasonably. But no matter what I do now, the first extra ball reward says it won't come until at least a billion points! My GCS isn't even that high, at around ~250mil. Any ideas?
My only guess is to do a factory reset. I don't see a setting for the score itself since it adjusts based on score. There are settings for replay levels but not exactly sure what that means. I know the score setting adjusts up if you get higher scores but not sure if it goes down.
You can get the Freddy protectors on ebay:
They are kind of a pain to put on since they install behind the stock protectors that have to be bent. I don't know why they didn't just design one piece to replace the stock units. Kind of expensive, too, but I don't know of any other solutions. I don't know how common cracked/broken ramps are but many of us have that problem. My left ramp corner near the vengeance broke off. Wish I got the protectors earlier but at least they cover up the damage.
Are you talking about the post rubbers at the front? I've replaced those with super post rubbers. There were a pain to get on but not the worst. I've ordered Titan rubbers to replace all the remaining rubber. Not sure when I am going to have time to install them, though.
Word has been that there will be another update. No major changes. Just fix a few bugs to finish it off.
I started changing out the stock rubbers for Titans. Ran into a few problems. One being I did not order enough rings and the manual has several errors. Two, I'm not sure how to get to this one rubber to the right of the vengeance. I thought I could loosen or remove a few screws to lift the vengeance assembly up a little bit but that sucker is nailed down tight. Any ideas?
I looked at Zitt's instructions but don't think it helps much. The pro is different. I could probably figure it out if I just start taking things apart but not going to do that. It was a pain to just do the ones under the right ramp so I had enough fun. Somehow I ended up with wrong sized rubbers and lacking one but made it work. Not sure I am feeling the clear rubbers either. Better than the dirty stock rubbers but think colors like blue would be better.
I thought all 3 flipper games had staged flippers. Really hard to use that feature for me so I don't even think about it.
Quoted from investingdad:
Has anyone had nagging problems with a few of the lights on their ST not staying on? I've had this problem with the yellow torpedo lights on my Pro. The top one and third one down. If I tug on the wires they come on, and they seem to go on and off as the machine vibrates and such. Is there an easy fix to ensure good contact with the wires and IDC clips?
Also, I'm tired of my Pro kicking my butt.
Seems like the more I understand how the rules work and how to combo shots and modes, the worse I score.
I have a few like that. I've had to play with the wires more than a few times but not lately. Check to make sure the bulb itself is seated properly. I've had them wiggle loose.
Pro is kicking my butt lately, too. I'm not sure if it's the Freddy protectors or the new balls I am using but hitting the left ramp is pretty difficult now. If the ball hits the side at all it just bounces around and falls back down the ramp. I suppose my skills could be better.
I shortened the spring on my drop target a while back. It was perfect for a while but rejects a hard shot now and then. Still works more than 90% of the time so not an issue for me.
Quoted from mcovill125:
I have a Star Trek Pro machine and I bought the blue slingshot covers from Pinbits. I'm just wondering what tools I will need to get those screws up in order to install the protectors. Philips head screw driver was obvious, but I'm not sure how to remove the large beams.
You need a small wrench or something to unscrew the hex risers and for the nuts holding the slings. The protectors are made for an LE and the pro is a little different. I had to drill out a hole and slot the side for the spotlight wires. I talked about doing that earlier in this thread. I also had to leave off some washers when putting it back together.
Cool idea. Mine gets stuck there often but a little nudge is all it needs. Sometimes I leave a ball parked there in multiball - lol.
Broke my warp record tonight - 38! I didn't count but I must of got 7 or 8 in row early in the game. I hit 9.1 the second time right before going into Koby Maru and then hit 9.9 before that double scoring ran out. Ended up with a decent score of 360m. Far from my best but it's been a while since I had a good game like that.
I've beaten Kob Maru a handful of times. The ending is kinda weak. A nice tweak would be a final shot (like at end of lv1 modes) to the vengeance. That way the game could trap the ball and you could have some nice lighting effects and dots.
I think that is common, Steve. I would definitely talk to your distributor or Stern. I'm pretty sure Stern would send you a replacement no problem. I think someone made a replacement that is thicker but not sure. My pro has been fine over many plays.
I got the double super jackpot in Klingon MB last night. That felt good. I had a decent score (300m) going into Vengeance 3, got greedy going for warp 9.9 double scoring, and drained. That was frustrating because I was so close to a huge one shot score. I did get into Koby Maru with only a few seconds to spare in first double scoring so that was cool. I'm still trying hard to make it to EA but I enjoy little victories like that.
I could use a little help with my ST. I was getting random ramp shots triggered in gameplay. Tracked it to the second left ramp opto. It was extremely sensitive would trigger by just touching the ramp or opto. I fiddle with it and now it is just stuck on. I need to remove the warp ramp to get to it but having trouble doing so. I have it loose but still don't see how it is suppose to come out. Anyone remove the warp ramp? Does it go out the back or pull it out from the front of the backboard? It would be nice to have some idea of how to do it before taking more things apart.
The opto is engaged all the time - shows as triggered in switch test. It was working but extremely sensitive. Hitting the left flipper would trigger it briefly and so would touch the ramp. I tried to see if it was loose and poked at it. I tried reseating connectors but they seem fine. It doesn't seem loose but might be dirty. I just cannot determine much with the warp ramp and plastics covering it.
Quoted from Kahanaohana:
next time someone lifts their stern st pf, can they see if all their flipper coils are the same? the manual calls for 22-1080 on all 3 flippers. Mine has 22-1080 on the lower flippers and a smaller coil on the top flipper. Im wondering if its a manual mistake or my game got the wrong upper coil. thanks
I checked my coils and have the same - smaller coil up top. The manual is wrong about rubbers, too. I'm guessing it was written early in development before changes were made. I would just replace what you have with the same part.
As far as my opto issue, I got the warp ramp out of the way. You have to take everything off the top of the warp ramp to remove it. What a pain. After getting better access to the opto on the right ramp, I'm pretty sure it's defective so ordered a new one.
Do you think you need a stronger flipper?
Quoted from MT45:Help with scoring strategy please! I'm getting top scores of 75 million and am not getting any higher. I am able to hit warps. Max for me was 11 in one game and 4 in a row. Can usually hit 5 or 6 per. I'm having a blast doing it, but ....
I copied the below from a post in its thread (my paraphrase). Can anyone shed a little more light on each or any of these steps?
It just doesn't seem self-explanatory to me ...
Star Trek Scoring Strategy Basic Version:
- Build point multipliers at roll-overs using flippers to light
- Hit warps at every chance as ball passes (7-9 per game)
- Master the Alpha, Beta and Spinner lanes to keep control
- Lock balls then pick next Mission during pause
- Set up and Kickoff Klingon Multi-ball:
- Hit the 3 green lock targets on the middle-left
- Then lock two balls
- Hit those 3 green lock targets again
- Lock 1 more ball.
During Klingon Multi-ball:
- Keep the balls alive to drive scores
- Shoot from flippers, don’t look up, just keep balls in play
This is just the basics of the game. Know what all the targets are for, how to get locks, how to get bonus multipliers, how to add a ball, and practice hitting all the ramps. My advice is just to play out the Level 1 modes in the order you like. Cradle the ball as often as you can and focus on getting your shot, especially in multiball. Be patient and try to mix multiball modes with other modes that have lots of shots. I wouldn't worry about warp shots, away team modes, vengeance 2 or 3 modes, or any scoring strategies. Focus on quality shots and being able to hit the start mission/away team shot to play out modes. If you play all the level one modes, get at least one multiball, and make it to Koby Maru, you should easily have more than 75m.
SKB - Try tapping/shaking on things in the switch matrix. I just had a flaky switch that worked in gameplay/testing but randomly triggered. In the test switch matrix, I could see the switch light for just a split second when hitting flippers and tapping the left ramp.
Quoted from investingdad:
So the left flasher by the outlane on my Pro is loose. After several ball strikes it was just a matter of time. It points to the outside of the playfield.
It's the flasher in the post just above mine, but the other side.
If I try to tighten the screw at the top of the post, the whole thing just turns.
Is there a trick for tightening the post to keep the flasher pointed where I want it?
You have to tighten the hex riser first, then tighten the screw holding the spotlight. One tip is to point the spotlight a little to the left when tightening it. Once tight, turn it towards where it needs to point. Haven't had an issue with them working loose when doing that.
Quoted from Pmaino:
It might be rubber but it's for when the ball rolls down the return lane and hits into the side of the plastic return. Here is a picture of it. I will post a video of what happens when I get home tonight.
That's pinball and what nudging is for. You can try to replace those junk, stock rubbers with clear super mini post rubbers. They have a lot more bounce (not always a good thing) but look a lot better. They also last a lot longer especially the ones around the warp ramp.
New gc score tonight on ST - 563m. Still no Enterprise Amok, though. Close but still several modes away. Best part was defeating the Vengeance and getting 47m. It would of been even better getting that on a combo but decided not to get greedy after trying a few times.
One thing I did notice is that double scoring was no longer displayed after entering Koby Maru on warp 9.9. Someone else pointed that out earlier. I did end up with a lot of points after hitting most of the shots in Koby Maru so maybe double scoring was still active. Hard to say.
I put my shaker in a while ago so my memory isn't so good. I remember there being just one board a only few hookups. Everything dropped right in place and connections were already there. No settings need to be changed. Super easy. If it doesn't fit then I suspect it's for other games - maybe older Stern's or new Spike games.
Any more info on how it helps the switch matrix? I don't have that and don't recall even getting another board when I got my shaker.
Quoted from gweempose:
Can you combine double scoring with Kobayashi Maru? I just played a game where I timed everything perfectly and hit Warp 9.1 right before I began Kobayashi Maru. It awarded me 50M for the medals, but I think it should have been 100M if it was doubled. I also noticed that the crazy rainbow apron lights weren't on during Kobayashi Maru.
Medal awards are definitely doubled. In koby maru, not sure. It no longer says dbl scoring on screen and point shown seem be regular. Hard to see because point values vary.
Quoted from gweempose:
So it's possible that my medal total would have been only 25M and was doubled to 50M.
To get 50m, you would have to have a lot of extra medals or a lot of gold. If I remember right, you get 10m for full set of bronze and 20m for full set of silver. So if you got all bronze (easy), some silver, and a gold or two that would be 25m. That's about what I usually get for just playing lv1 modes.
Quoted from Pmaino:
Has anyone had any issues with the ball going SDTM when starting vengeance and/or hitting the right loop shot(ball passes through the spinner lane)? How would I adjust this as I'm sure the ball is supposed to be fed to the left flipper. It almost seems that it hits something right near the spinner and it kicks it further to the right and SDTM.
Check if your game is level. You could check your spinner and make sure it is not binding. You might want to also check your balls and make sure they are in good shape.
Quoted from investingdad:
So some of my rubber post bumpers and rubber bands are showing signs of heavy wear.
Recommendation for a kit to replace them?
I like the clear super mini post rubbers. I forget the size but think these are it.
For everything else, Titan rubbers work really well and look great in colors (not clear, though).
Quoted from investingdad:
Vengeance Battle 3....
So we can't start new missions on ball drains when in VB3, or VB2 I think.
This has been killing me on Level 2 missions after doing KM and impeding my progress. Was this by design or is it a bug? It makes sense in some ways...can't progress without dealing with the Vengeance.
Also, what is the secret behind lighting the Special? I got it for a second time yesterday in about 1600 games and can't figure out how I lit it.
It does that for all 3 vengeance modes. I doubt it's a bug but would be nice to always start a normal mode on ball launch.
I've only seen the special lit once in the year I have owned ST. Like someone else said, it must be a super rare special award when deep into a game. In general, I wish the special awards were more valuable. All I see is adding time to a mode, 200k, or a bonus multiplier which are not anything worth shooting for on purpose. Best to avoid hitting it entirely until an add-a-ball situation. It would be cool to have more awards with callouts and animations. If no modes were active, it would be cool if it started hurry-ups on random shots. I thought we were getting one more update but not so sure anymore.
The manual lists one rubber to the right of the vengeance when there was actually 2. One of those is hard to get to so I left it alone. The other conflict I remember is the band to the left of the beta ramp entrance. I forget what size I ended up using but I ordered both sizes. Everything else was correct for my pro but it is good to do a visual count. I also don't recommend the clear titan rubbers. The clear super mini posts look great but titan clear is more of a milky white. I ended up using blue and that looks good.
My vengeance has always leaned. It looks like it is due to the weight of the cable going under the playfield and soft spring. The cable has plenty of slack and don't want to tie it up because it needs plenty of slack for movement. Kind of bugs me but not enough to invest much time into it.
Quoted from tonedef131:
Has anyone ever encounter the problem of the game randomly starting multiball and then continuously giving triple jackpots? I've tried swapping CPU, driver board and installing new ROM. Could this be related to a trough opto board problem? I plan to install a new set of those once they are back in stock but if that doesn't work I'm not sure where to go.
Not exactly but have had problems with optos triggering randomly causing score to go up and sounds to trigger. The last time was an opto that was flaking out. It worked okay in testing but triggered under vibrations. I would go into the switch test and check all optos. Tap ramps and slap around to see if anything is getting triggered. It sounds like your game is triggering locks so concentrate on the vengeance optos and left lock. Could be worth calling Stern if you cannot find a bad switch.
Learned something a few days ago. I had a really good game on ST one night earlier this week. I got within two shots of Enterprise Amok - arg! End up with my 2nd best score so that was cool. Next day, I turn on my machine, see that score show up as previous score and think . Well, my next game sucked but game asks for my initials. Wat? All scores and stats are wiped out except grand champion score. I think something is wrong but turns out there is a setting to erase scores after a certain play count on Sterns. Mine was set to 2000. Game is only year old. Guess I should stop restarting so many games. I forget where the setting was but it was easy to find. Figured there would be a few more out there unaware of this feature.
Quoted from rai:
I've done the washer fix, so it doesn't fire all the time, but now I notice if I have a strong hit on the target it won't go down at all. Regular hits are OK but a strong hit not.
Try adding more tension to the spring. I think Stern used too soft of a spring. Check out this thread. Different game but same issue. I did this and definitely helped. Still get rejected hard shots now and then but much more rare.
Quoted from rai:
I just watched the whole ST PAPA tutorial since this was at an early code not sure how much is still valid. I wanted to know what's the effect of the medal awards they added? Since the old code you would get whatever points for the level one mode during the KM mode as a JP shot. Does the medal award change anything or is just another goal where you want to get more silver/gold medals?
The Away Team awards, is that only for that ball or does it carry over?
Medal awards are just points. You get points for each medal and all medals earned for whatever mode get cashed in at wizard modes (Kob. Maru, Enterp. Amok, and 5 yr mission). Sets of 6 of each medal type (bronze, silver, gold) also earn bonuses. Thus, it pays off to play lv2 and lv3 missions before getting to Kob. Maru. Keep track of your warp count and go for 9.1 (or 9.9) before starting Kob. Maru. That will double your medal count score.
Away team modes are just alternative modes to level 1 modes and basically worth more points per shot. Completing levels 1,2, and 3 of a particular mode will give you a shot multiplier for the rest of the game. For example, completing all the Klingon Battle modes will make all left ramp shots double for rest of game. Sometimes fun to go for shot multiplier and then away team that uses that shot. If you are really good, you can set up some crazy scoring shots with ramp multiplier, warp multiplier, and combos all together.
Quoted from kwvogel:
I have two questions about multiball on my Stern (Pro)--
(1) Was in klingon multiball today-- While you usually need to hit the Vengeance in order to knock the locked ball loose and get the other balls to autolaunch, today the 3rd and 4th balls started to autolaunch from the shooter lane almost immediately (before I knocked the locked ball loose). Just wondering if this was anything I somehow did on purpose (without knowing it!) or it was some sort of glitch. I think this has happened before on rare occasions but you know how multiball is-- it's hard to pay attention to the shots and the display when you're just trying to keep the balls in play!
My vengeance optos have always been a bit twitchy on mine. The last update did help some of that but still have an issue now and then. I've seen it act as if I hit the captured ball before it even launched the next ball. It's done other weird things like that but it's really not all that often. Not sure why. The last weird thing was a few weeks ago playing Vengeance3. I had double scoring and was going to go for a quad score by hitting the final shot on a combo. Never had the chance. On the last shot before the drop target is raised, the game acted as if that was the last shot. Hard to be too upset with a big payoff but kind of upset that I didn't get the chance to double it.
Quoted from rai:
For you rules guys; do you go for Away Team all the time, sometimes (depending on the mode?) are some AT bonuses more valuable than others?
Does the Away Team bonus last for the entire ball or just for the mode?
Starting away team adds 20 seconds to the mode timer. It's just gives you an alternative way to play the mode so once the timer is over, so is the mode and away team.
I try for all of them except Space Jump and Klingon Battle. Space Jump away team is one shot. Decent points but you can get more points for playing out the mode and going for a gold medal. Klingon Battle away team is alternating left/right ramp shots. I never seem to be able to do well with that so avoid. Nero away team is risky in that it is easy to drain hitting red targets. If you are good at hitting the warp ramp, STE away team can be huge points. DTD uses the spinner and I just find that fun. I don't know of any extra bonuses - just more points per shot. It's good to go for them not only for points but to get better at the under the flipper shot to start modes. If going for points, it's better to get as many shots as possible in the regular mode before starting away team.
Quoted from golfingdad1:
So before starting kobiashi maru tonight the pin was awarding me my medals as usual...
2 gold...What ?
So for some reason it gave me 2 more gold medals on a completely new screen after it had already awarded gold medals.
Any one else ever see that ? I could swear that's what I saw .
Did you play lv2 or lv3 modes? It sounds like you got a full set of bronze, one extra bronze, 4 silver, and 2 gold. Never had an issues with medal counts. It is kind of weird the way it counts when you have more than 6. It should just tell you how many bronze with whatever points. One of the annoying things I dislike about ST is the way the screen messages pile up. Every little thing has to have it's own screen message and most of it is just plain text.
Quoted from golfingdad1:
So before starting kobiashi maru tonight the pin was awarding me my medals as usual...
2 gold...What ?
So for some reason it gave me 2 more gold medals on a completely new screen after it had already awarded gold medals.
Any one else ever see that ? I could swear that's what I saw .
I might have to take back what I said about this being impossible. Tonight I had something similar happen but think I have an explanation. Starting Kobi Maru, I had 5 bronze, 6 silver, and a few gold. I only played level 1 modes but think it had something to do with space jump. When I played space jump, I only got one shot before starting away team. After getting the last shot, I got a silver medal but the game never awarded the bronze. Never seen that before. I got the last shot in multiball so maybe that had something to do with it.
In a different game, I had another weird glitch. I finished all level 1 modes except Klingon Battle. I started Klingon Battle but then the game suddenly said Prime Directive 2 and all the inserts changed to blue. I made one shot and the inserts went back to red and Klingon Battle 1 played out as normal. No explanation for that.
Uh, all ST's have the torpedo lights. It's tempting to smash the button anytime you have them lit but save them. You can use them to instantly activate Vengeance Multiball at the best time - like the start of a mode. You can also save them to help beat Vengeance Multiball quickly. Torpedo shots count as hits on the vengeance. If you have a full bank of shots, you can unload at the start of the mode and then you only need a few shots to finish.
Quoted from Meegis:
Update for St owners. This was in a stle, but I'm gonna gander it is on all models.
Having had issues with my entry opto on the left ramp I have been going crazy trying to clean, adjust repin, etc etc and to no avail.
Finally removed the assembly tonight and found out a hidden culprit that all machines may be victim to one day.
The pair of optos on the ramp have both wires very tightly zip tied together in the ramp (out of sight). My initial problem with the opto was vibration, bit having tried to fix it so many times the wire became more taught and the zip tie only became a mystery and invisible hinderance.
I removed the vengeance ship and found the zip tie only once I couldn't pull the opto wire out without pulling on the opposite side.
If you get lucky, you can sneak mini snips in from under the pf and carefully chop the zip off the wires. This allowed me to remove the "faulty" opto.
I decided to test it else where and see if it was salvagable for parts and maybe it was a wire short or something. But now removed and no longer being pinched and pulled down, it worked fine.
So I reinstalled it, leaving the wire loose and using a different drop hole this time, it seems to be completely fine and functional again.
I reassembled everything and so far it seems my issue is totally gone. I'm thinking the tension and added pressure may have cause the opto to physically be moved and angled enough that the sensor was tripping non stop.
Just food for thought for any of you guys experiencing similar problems.
Wall of text over.
Not sure I understand. I don't think a wire being zip tied tight is an issue but I don't have much experience. I had an opto go bad on the left ramp. It started with being triggered by vibrations but went dead after trying to adjust it. It was a pain to get to but don't remember any hidden zip tied wires in the process. Pretty straightforward replacing it with a new one once I could actually put a screwdriver on the screws holding the opto in place. If an opto is flaking out, I would just replace it. No reason to go through all that trouble of taking things apart to chance it over a cheap part.
Quoted from rai:
I guess it's a Catch-22
I'm no as good therefore I play less often therefore I'm not as good. It feels more like work.
I can be not good on IM or Tron or Met and feel like I've had *fun* but on ST I just feel like I've had a bad game.
Another game I need to make major progress into the game is Potc if I have a 10M point game I pretty much don't enjoy it. On Metallica for example I'm just happy getting a row complete coffin hurry up, maybe start a MB and I'm excited and pumped.
With ST, I've hardly got to KM yet so it's more frustrating than fun. Maybe not the games fault, but just don't get much excitement in the opening sequence of play.
It took me a long time to get decent at ST. I still get frustrated with it to be honest. I recommend focusing on getting better at the start mission shots and the warp. It really helps to get the ball under control, cradle, and focus on the shot. Setting smaller goals also helps the fun factor. Sometimes I play level 2 or 3 modes just for fun. My favorite is Nero2. Playing level 1 modes all the time gets boring and higher level modes help you getting better by demanding specific shots. It's also fun going for Away Team in level 1 modes and seeing how many points you can get in that mode. It's very satisfying for me to do well in one mode even if the rest of my game sucked.
You can also adjust the game to be easier. I turned down my slings and narrowed my outlanes. The warp ramp can be adjusted if it does not feel back to the upper flipper smoothly. You can also change settings to give more extra balls based on warps or score. You can even set it to 5 ball play. I tried that once but felt dirty so I changed it back. lol
Not sure about sound issue but other sound like common problems. Warp ramp can be adjusted left and right. Look for screw on warp exit. Loosen and you can adjust ramp. Vengeance drop target not registering hard hits probably related to spring. Shorten spring by a quarter length or so. It's a common issue with stern drop targets.
Not sure about prem and le, but on pro the 'T' flashes when the virtual kickback is active. As far as I know, all the trek letters do is increase spinner value when all are lit.
Quoted from rai:
It's a shame Stern can't spend a few extra bucks and include them on an area like this that is kind of a pain to get to the rubber. I am not any good at working on the pin myself always feel I may mess something up. I tried many times to install some mods and half the time I get stuck or mess something up and make it the game unplayable never really damaged my game but I've heard stories such as someone drill into through their PF by accident or break a bolt off.
Don't worry. Replacing the post rubbers is not hard. I didn't take off the left ramp. Just undo enough some of the screws up front, loosen the ones in the back, and you can lift it up enough to give access. Most of them are very straightforward.
Quoted from jaystile:
About a month ago I purchased my ST Pro. It is my first pinball. This past weekend I did my major cleaning and upgrades. I installed a cliffy hanger on the left scoop. To access the mounting screws I had to take off the left cover, but to get to that I had to take off the left ramp, but to do that I had to take off the warp ramp, but to take that off I had to take off the right ramp! Does that seem normal to anyone else? When you take off your ramps do you leave the little red LEDs attached or do you pull the wires off the circuit board? I pulled mine from the board, but I don't think that was the easiest way to go. While everything was disassembled I put in new blue rubber rings from cointaker http://cointaker.com/products/star-trek-polyurethane-rubber-ring-kit-36-pcs. They look pretty sharp. Most went on smoothly but the rings for the (what do you call them?) gates above the the popups wear impossible to put on. The rings seemed too small but matched the manual's size indicator. My wife pried them apart with needlenose pliers while I used my snap ring tool to spread it over the post. How do you do this without so much effort? (Or just with one person?) I was thinking about getting a castration banding tool before I try this again! Everything is put back together and is working great and looks super clean. I used novus 2 on the playfield and on the deep grooves on the ramp and novus 1 on the rest of the plastics. The job took me one long 12 hour session. I hope I'm faster next time!
I think I was able to get the cliffy in on mine without much effort. I think I just loosened the ramp so I could get under it and was able to work the cliffy in with a little finesse. Did it a long time ago so don't remember. I did once pull off all the ramps to get to a busted opto and that was a bit of a pain. I've also replaced all the rubbers with Titan rubbers. They are silicon based and stretch much better than polyurethane. Check out the Titan rubbers next time you need rings.
Freddy ramp protectors are important. They are a pain to put on but not sure if there are any alternatives. Plastic sling protectors are also needed. Clear mini post rubbers look good and hold up way better than stock black rubber. The ones around the warp ramp take a beating. Shaker is nice but not needed. The warp light and diffuser are really nice. Other thing that makes a nice visual difference is swapping out some of the bulbs in the back for colored bulbs. My fav mod is Aurich's art package but sadly that is no longer available.
Quoted from heni1977:
Noticed a buzzing sound from the r/flipper being held down to control shots. Is there a fix for this or will I have to live with it?
Buzz is normal. Mine has always done it. Volume up helps to drown it out.
Quoted from PureTO:
Is this a glitch?
Brand new machine a few days ago. Latest code 1.61
Can't remember the first time if I had high score and entered initials.
But definitely tonight...
Left room, returned 5 min later
Hit start button.
Game automatically selected mission and had points on board. Same points both times.
Sounds like you have a twitchy opto. Some switch is triggering giving you points and making the game think a ball is in play. That is why it jumps straight into a mode. Go into the switch test and test each opto. Bang or tap around to see if any switches go off. Could also try same with hitting flippers. Opto may just need to be cleaned or coming loose.
Quoted from Nokoro:
I took about a 2 month hiatus on playing Star Trek due to the acquisition of a new pin. Now that I've gone back, I've discovered that I suck at playing it again. I also feel like my games are much more inconsistent on it than other pins. I can have a 10 million point game followed by a 150 million point game. Perhaps its because it is so incredibly fast. Some balls go down the drain before I can even realize they are heading in that direction. I still love the game. Just have to figure out how to get back in the groove.
I've always been inconsistent playing ST and it gets frustrating. I will have a great game going deep in modes and then not be able to clear two modes in the very next game. A lot of my high scores were set way back when I didn't know the rules that well. Still really enjoy the game, though. Love the speed, flow, and light show. I haven't played mine in a while either. Finally got my Congo reliable and just got a nice Shadow so have been playing those a lot. Kinda nice to take a break from a pin from time to time. Makes the game feel fresh and fun all over again when you play that first game in a while.
Quoted from PureTO:
I have yet to play a pin with a shaker motor. The feedback through your fingers or palms resting on the machine would be neat.
But I believe the absolute worst thing you could do to a pinball machine would be vibrate the shit out of it. So I don't know if I'll be installing one. Hopefully I can check one out soon though.
The shaker does not bring the house down. It just rumbles a bit. Games were built for commercial use so a little vibration not an issue. Stern builds there games to accept them so it's pretty much a stock piece. Works great in ST so I highly recommend getting one.
Quoted from jaystile:
I have a ST Pro and I was wondering if anyone has run into the issue where the ball drain is not detected? When the ball drains the pin 'searched' for the ball and eventually prints an error that there is a missing ball. I haven't researched it too much, but I do not recall seeing it mentioned in the forums. A point in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like trough switch issues. Fairly common. Might just be a loose connection.
Did you turn off dimming in settings? You have to do that unless you get the ocd board.
Quoted from JordanB:
I'll give that a try, thanks! Guess "non-ghosting" LEDs don't solve this problem.
Non ghosting bulbs help prevent ghosting and not really flicker. Ghosting is where the bulb is supposed to be off but there a little current that slightly lights a led bulb. Non ghosting bulbs add a little resistance to prevent bulb from lighting on weak charges. Dimming is the fade effect in game or power saving mode in attract mode that led bulbs don't handle well and flicker.
Is your score still zero when this happens? Sounds like a switch is triggered making the game think the ball was plunged. Test all the switches and optos by hand. Bang around the playfield and see if that sets off a switch. I had one opto going bad that did this. Make sure the drop target is also functioning correctly in the test menu.
Impressive, ectobar. I'm still trying to get to enterprise amok. I get the nerves thing, too, anytime I start getting close. Sure makes it tough.
Ball save insert seems to light as part of the light show. Same thing as the extra ball light.
Quoted from investingdad:
My Vengeance never kicks to drain. What angers me is the Start Mission lock releasing the ball, hitting the left sling, and bouncing straight to the right outlane drain. This happens a LOT on my pro.
Try adjusting the power of the coil in the menu. I had the same issue with my pro. Mine still gets a bad eject now and then after lowering the power but still better.
I love the Vengeance modes. I don't think the risk is any higher than going for any other shot. Going for the stand up targets in Nero away team is much more dangerous. Getting the extra ball from Vengeance2 is a great reward. Finishing Vengeance3 can be a huge payoff if you have a big score and have multipliers in effect. Vengeance3 is actually one of my favorite modes in pinball. When you start to think about how many points that one shot is and if you can just get it on a combo, with a warp multiplier, and then you drain. Khaaaaaan!
Any tips for replacing the back vengeance opto? Looks like mine needs replacing. It's triggering randomly and on vibrations. I had the same problem with a ramp opto before. The ramp opto was a pain to get to but the vengeance looks even more difficult. I tried taking the vengeance a part once before to replace a rubber but could not figure out how.
If you start Away Team during Space Jump before earning a bronze medal, it will award you a silver only. I'm not sure if that is really a glitch because it's a one shot mode.
Quoted from Concretehardt:
I have STLE but feel like I don't really grasp all the rules, is there a written rule sheet for this game?
Basic rules are pretty easy. There are 9 modes, each with 3 levels. Thus there are 27 total. Completing all three levels for a mode gives you a specific ramp doubler. Completing all modes in one level gives you a wizard mode. Completing 3 modes in a row gives you super spinner, super ramps, or super pops. Modes are played by basically hitting lit shots. Shots flashing or strobing different colors are worth more or advance your medals. Medals are rewarded for how well you play the modes and you get points for all medals at the start of the wizard modes. Away Team is lit after the first shot on level one modes. It's an alternative way to play the modes and better points. Starting another mode by hitting under the upper flipper or the left scoop.
There are three vengeance modes that you progress through by hitting the drop target or using the lock bar button when the yellow inserts in the middle of the playfield are lit. All vengeance modes are pretty much hit the vengeance up the middle. The second is a hurry up and you earn an extra ball for completing. The last is good for points where you get 10% of your score for completing.
Locks get you to Klingon Multiball. It's pretty much hit every shot twice. Always try to play this mb and vengeance mb with another mode.
Warp shots are very useful. You can earn extra balls and get 2x playfield for warp 9.1 and 9.9. That's can be huge points when cashing in medals at the start of a wizard mode. Warp 9.9 also kicks out an extra ball in play. Combos are also useful for points. Hitting a shot on a combo gives you 2x on that shot. That can be pretty huge on things like the final shot on vengeance 3. Mix that with a 2x playfield and you get 4x for a shot!
There are several skill shots. Hold down the right flipper and hard plunge. The ball should go all the way up and back down to the upper flipper. Hitting the warp shots gives you a nice score but you also get awarded the right orbit shot if lit on a mode. Holding down the left flipper lets the ball come all the around and lights either the vengeance or the right ramp for the skill shot. You can do both skill shots during a ball. I like to save the left flipper skill shot for when I need the ball quickly to the flippers for a timed shot that is about to run out.
Not sure about the LE, but you don't have to completely take ramps off to get the sling plastics off on a pro. Maybe loosen a few screws. Very easy.
After over 2 years of owning ST, I finally made it to Enterprise Amok. Finally! Didn't know what to do and drained pretty quick lol. Still, I had an epic game. It was late and I was just going to play a quick game before putting my kids to bed. I was making shots, getting lucky bounces, blowing through modes, getting all the extra balls, double scoring at the right times without really trying, etc. Crazy. Never had a game like that on any pin. Ended up with 829m - way more than my other high scores. I might of got close to a billion if I could of got the last shot on vengeance3 with a combo or didn't fumble the last few balls. Even could of went for vengeance3 twice since I completed vengeance2 twice. I also blew away my previous warp record with 50. Doubt I will ever have a game like that again.
I think they go for around $4500 for modded nice ones. Stock probably low $4000. Can't go wrong for that price. Great game and doubt you will lose money if sold a year or two later.
All the post rubbers are the same size. I replaced all mine with clear super band minis. Like zitt said, the ones around the warp ramp take a beating and regular rubbers don't last too long even in a home environment.
Sure, you can adjust the power of the coil in the settings. I backed mine off but still end up with drains from it sometimes - very frustrating.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:
New owner here.
Can so tell what gives 9.9 warp ramp?
And what it gives when you succeed 2 three in row in the same time? Is super ramp and pop bumpers are stacked (for exemple)?
Warp 9.9 gives you a 2nd ball on the playfield and 2x scoring. Funny when you have a ball in play when starting Koby Maru. You get to play in the dark through the medal count and intro. You even get a head start on making shots lol. Not sure the developers thought that through. After warp 9.9, you start over on warps.
You get the awards for both rows completed if done where the last completed mode completes two rows. I always play for this because why not?
Quoted from colonel_caverne:
how works the medals reward? the more arrow lit shots you succeed in the timed mod the more the metal of the medal is high?
and how works the captain's chair? i know it is lit when you make a 3 in a row mod and that gives up super ramps or pops, but how time it lasts?
In level1 modes, you get medals for certain number of completed shots - every 3 I think. You also earn medals faster by doing the alternative away team modes. On level2 and 3 modes, you get medals for hitting the flashing, alternating color shots. Captains chair just means you completed a row. It's not a mode or anything. Kinda strange that it's a huge insert - probably meant to be something at one point. Super ramps/pops/spinner is based on how many times you hit those shots and not based on timer. For big points, try playing out the easy level2 and level3 modes before entering Koby Maru. You get medal awards for all medals you have earned in all modes. If you can get the 2x from warp 9.1 or 9.9 with a lot of medals, huge points. Tough to pull off, though. I always seem to play the worst when I am trying hard to pull off a big game.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:
what is level 1,2,3? you mean when you complete a mode you can select it again and so play the level 2 then 3? or you play level 2 of a mode when you completed all level 1 modes?
when you say: "Super ramps/pops/spinner is based on how many times you hit those shots and not based on timer. "
you mean till you loose the ball?
Each mode has 3 levels. Level 1 modes are timer based but level 2 and 3 you have to complete shots to finish. When you finish all 3 for a mode, you will get 2x scoring for a particular shot rest of game. Finishing all the modes in a level gets you a wizard mode. Finish all level 1's you get Kobayashi Maru. All level 2's get Enterprise Amok. Finish all modes to get 5 year mission.
I can't remember if the super pops/ramps/spinner end when you drain. Honestly I don't pay attention to them and only focus on completing modes.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:
Hi guys, my Star Trek LE is acting up like crazy. It keeps thinking that a ball is going into the warp ramp and keeps doing warp like crazy even though no ball is going into the ramp. ANy ideas what to do? I have tried resetting the machine and it keeps doing it.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
It's your optos. There are two on the warp ramp. Go into the switch test in the menu with the glass off. If you tap on the ramp/opto you will probably see it being triggered. You can try cleaning them with a qtip and alcohol or check if one is loose. Otherwise, you will need to figure out which one is bad and replace it. Transmitter and receiver are interchangeable so it's just one part to order. I recommend buying several to have some on hand. I've had to replace several on my ST.
Quoted from Nokoro:
Replace the rubber ring with a superband minipost rubber. That will at least help the ring. I'm not sure about the post.
Agreed. Rubber ones were not lasting long at all when I first got my ST. Put superband minis on and think only one cracked. They are harder than rubber so not sure if that will help with bent posts. Never heard of that problem.
I would check all switches, especially the optos. Sounds like game thinks ball is in play because a switch triggers.
Quoted from heni1977:
Went through and checked some switches. Prod should sit down and read the owners manual!
So what does the boxes mean in switch alerts? I took glad off and went through and changed to out of service and now the game is playing fine. What did I do???
And that decal looks very nice by the way!!
I'm not sure what you mean that you "took glad off" or what you are changing to out of service. If you are disabling features/switches then that might get the game playing but not 100%. This is a picture of the switch matrix from my pro. The boxes mean that the switch is closed. Look in the manual and it will show you what switch belongs to each dot in the switch matrix. If you look in the manual, you can see that the 4 optos in the trough are all triggered because all 4 balls are loaded. Yours has a plus sign for one of the trough switches. I'm not sure what that means but probably due to you changing settings for those switches. I would get all switches back in service and working normally.
In the switch matrix, go through every switch in the game and make sure a square lights up in the switch matrix when pressed (or light beam interrupted for optos). Also bang on the playfield in different places and see if any optos go off. I had one opto get flakey - worked fine in testing but triggered on vibrations. Also note that the coils are not going to fire in switch testing. You are only testing switches. You can test coils in another part of the menu but that isn't the issue with your game. If a wire is off or a switch is bad, it will not respond or stay closed. Once you can determine which switches are not working correctly it gets a lot easier figuring out how to fix them.