(Topic ID: 57136)

Star Trek Club.... Members Only!

By Jean-Luc-Picard

10 years ago


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13
#8880 3 years ago

Joined the club today!

Couldn't be happier.

Went from Getaway to (another Richie) Star Trek.

Can't wait to grab a few miss and really get into it.

Kids are loving it too. And the wife is happy I'm happy.

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#8887 3 years ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

Awesome. I recommend the pinbulbs.com upgrade for the bulbs. Buy a couple extra Cyans for the shield targets and a couple red/oranges for under the upper L playfield

It was actually all led'd out with 2smd's from cointaker from the last guy. Except for the red ship inserts on the right. Those are on a board.

I got a nice mods package coming already. Couldn't resist. Coming next is a headphone/audio control and shaker.

But I'm eyeballing that stainless steel one in the comments just above tho.

#8889 3 years ago

Looking for suggestions on color of trough lighting for my ST Pro

#8892 3 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Good morning,
I just noticed that the led on top of my vengeance is actually dead. This is lamp 56, and in the manual it's not very clear how it's mounted and what part to use to replace it.
Any pointer on this ?
Thanks

Please let us know when you figure it out. I'd like to change mine to red and want to know how.

Good luck!

1 week later
#8911 3 years ago

Is there a way to post a video without uploading to YouTube (or elsewhere) and linking it?

#8913 3 years ago
Quoted from ectobar:

No. Only images/gifs can be directly posted.

thank you.

i got the mezel mods and the Vengeance interactive mod from Beatmaster and wanted to upload a video.

The Mezel Mods are:

Warp Ramp Light Diffuser - kind of took some bending and fitting. Actually had to take the piece off (the screws were a PITA to get to) and bend it so it would fit without hitting the ramp. It was the most cumbersome of the mods I did, but still only took 10-15 minutes. And it's worth it! Really makes the light look great in the flasher emblem. @mezelmods maybe trim the bottom of the back piece a bit so it doesn't hit the ramp. I had to bend the emblem brackets which added considerable time and was the only frustration.

"Beam me up" tubes for the alarm lights - Really great effect. Takes 5 seconds to put on. WELL WORTH IT!

Explosion under the Vengeance mod - GREAT LOOKING MOD! To run the wires I disconnected it and ran it UP THROUGH the playfield instead of down. Much easier. Then it's just connect and go. IT IS SUPER BRIGHT! Too bright honestly. I'm hoping there is a way to dim it or something. Not sure I can keep it with as bright as it is now, but man it REALLY looks great!!! ( I also added the spring decal for the complete pacakage)

Beatmaster interactive Vengeance mod - WOW! just WOW! Amazing! And super simple. Very easy and the effect is out of this world. It looks like it should have been included on the Premium/LE models. it's great. I went with the red one for effect and it's perfect. Only suggestion would be to get some black to cover up the spaces between the front piece and the rest of the Vengeance. I put black electric tape on it and it worked perfectly.

Cannot say enough about these mods. And, just for full disclosure I'm kind of a beginner with modding like this. Stickers, decals and add ons I'm great with. When it comes to messing with wires I'm very new. These instructions were pretty clear and once you find the flasher wire it's plug and play simple.

I'm going to try my hand at uploaded videos so everyone can see.

#8919 3 years ago

I'd anyone has experience hooking up/connecting led strips to the g.i. lights I would very much like to learn how.

STPRO has the light sockets for everything and I don't know where I would attach a gator clip.

Looking at adding a trough light and a shooter rod strip light.

Thank you trekkies!

#8921 3 years ago

Thanks! When I get it I'll try that.

#8922 3 years ago

Ok guys ... My optos are going nuts again.

The coils won't test.

But the optos are just flipping out. All of them. Thought I had it fixed but tonight they went bonkers again. It won't even start now and when I test the switches all the optos will go nuts.

But the main one is the center target. It won't even respond. The others ones click on and off with the slightest vibration. The center one isn't registering again.

I can't have a game that is like this. And I just got it a couple weeks ago.

What is a good, solid, going to last, solution?

#8924 3 years ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

For "coils won't test", are you remembering to pull out your interlock switch? Coils will not fire with the coin door open unless the switch is pulled.
Good luck!

uuuhhh...... the what where now? hahaha sorry. I have done the test before with the door open. But I don't remember a switch. Could you point me in the right direction please?

And I went through as well as I know how and checked all connections on the optos and their mounting and everything. I can't see anything that is wrong or disconnected. I played it for a couple days after adding the mods though.... so not sure if that is involved or not. Regardless, I did check as best I know how.

I'm taking it to my guy tomorrow to have him give it a once over and fix it. All I do is put band aids on it. LOL

#8925 3 years ago

ok did a quick search and didn't come up with much.

Who's got UV in this game? I want to see it. Comet doesn't have a huge selection and warns against it not really being bright enough. They suggest the strips.

Not against it. Just want to know and see what people have done. I've got some good ideas of what I want to do. I do NOT want purple bulbs as it washes out too much. I'm not really looking for dark blue either for the same reasons.

UV/Blacklight is much lighter and adds great effects if done correctly. So I just wanted to see what everyone has.

Thanks Trekkies!

#8929 3 years ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Strongly suggest sticking to some form of white bulbs for GI. Cool (natural i think they call it now) white, frosted 2SMD if you really want to swap them out is what I would go with. Color in the GI reduces visibility in most cases.

Thinking about putting them in the top lane lights and under the purple plastics on the away team area. Was thinking about putting them as the 2 outside (end) lights on the back board as well.

#8930 3 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

UV LED bulbs for pins are dim to the point of being worthless in my experience. I wouldn't bother.

I definitely don't want dim.

#8940 3 years ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

I’ll offer the counterpoint of getting rid of as much white as possible. All the sling and target whites are harsh and distracting. They’re also not thematic at all.
I recommend pinbulbs.com kit and then adding red/orange under the warp/left ramp to go with the explosion theme in that area.
I also put cyan to match the shield inserts and green to match the lock inserts (still undecided on these but they go well with the Klingon BOP).
Oh and red flasher for the vengeance or get out. The pre multiball pulsing is amazing in red.
This pic is a bit more purple/blue then reality. (EDIT: a lot more purple)
[quoted image]

Can you decide if you want to swap out certain bulbs in that kit? Their picture looks stunning and the uv/purple hue is exactly what i'm looking for. I don't want to replace EVERY. SINGLE. Bulb though. I was only planning on spending about $25 and getting the main ones and adding a trough light. But damn, it looks really good on their site.

I upgraded my vengeance flasher to red but the bulb straight fell out. I'll do it again for sure. The one in there was a tower orange and, while it was ok, the red as much better while it lasted.

I really did how yours looks, even though it does look a little washed out in that pic. You are saying you used the pinballbulbs.com kit though correct? I wasn't looking at spending that $$$ on it, but that picture is pretty damn convincing.

The attached photo is from their website.

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1 week later
#8973 3 years ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

So I'm having this opto issue. They are fritzing out, all of them it seems. I've made sure all the holes are clean, the optos are all lined up (by eye), and I reseated all the optos on their boards and checked that the wire tags line up with the board. What's my next step?

This is exactly what mine does. It's currently being looked at by our local pinball wizard. Bad news is, he's stumped.

Stern is only communicating by email right now and it's been a week with no reply to his email. Pretty bad if you ask me.

None of the fixes on here have worked so far, but he's not giving up.

Once he finds it I'll let y'all know.

#8998 3 years ago

Update on the optos problem.

Went and got my machine back today. Have yet to play it but will update after some plays.

Stern has not returned his emails in over a week. Pathetic customer service.

He went through it all and finally ended up moving some of the opto wiring away from the magnet. There is some documentation that says any EMF may mess up the wires if they are too close and not twisted properly. Twisting them makes the EMF cancel out from end to end of the wires. A straight wire will just carry the EMF and could mess up signal.

So, he said he played on it after doing that and has not had any problems. He's not 100% sure but.... Here's to hoping.

1 week later
#9026 3 years ago

Optos on the fritz again. Warp 9.9 before you even flip a ball. Center target lock up alert is not constant.

Sending the boards out to get reflowed then hoping that works.

Why are these optos such a constant and sporadic pain and problem? What does it need with the center drop target? Why does it seem all the optos go haywire together?

I read the early releases were much worse (mine is one) but the vault editions don't have these problems.

#9031 3 years ago
Quoted from foxtj24:

remove and re-seat all connectors in the Head. That fixed mine and some others. Worth a shot.

in the backbox you mean? not just the ones the optos are connected to? im doing this tonight and testing.

Quoted from Ashram56:

I had the same issue, reflowed the solder on the opto board to no avail. Since I could see the opto triggering in test mode when I was touching the wire of one of the opto, I ended up replacing the wire (be sure to have a replacement connector, didn't have one so currently it's hooked up with Dupont.... Ouch), io and behold no issue ever since.

if it comes to that. Going to try a reflow first. if the reseating in the backbox doesn't work tonight i'll be taking the boards off and sending them away.

#9035 3 years ago
Quoted from foxtj24:

Yes, In the backbox.

it freakin worked! spent some time reseating and when i turned it on it worked! Played it lastnight for about an hour.

Right at the end the center drop target started acting weird. It would up/down for no reason, not come up when it should lock a ball. Only happened once or twice that i noticed. Next time i play it i will pay close attn to it and see.

Any suggestions for the drop target issues?

#9038 3 years ago

So since the opto reseating worked I checked out the drop target and reseated that too. No issues for a game or 2 tonight.

Thanks for the help y'all!

#9040 3 years ago

Can I use these for a f8 fuse? Manual says 3a 50vdc is o.e.m.

Are these the same? The filament is much smaller and different material. but both are rated 3a.

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#9069 3 years ago
Quoted from Bazzy34:

How or where do you order all the right rubber for this game? My vault rubber is starting to go. Can you order it all or piece-meal?

Titan pinball has them all and has premade kits of different assortments. I just ordered the clear kit with blue flippers.

However, like some other posts on her the USPS is sucking balls right now. Lost 2 of my packages for 4 days. Had to go make the manager find them. They currently have one that is 3 days late. My titan order has been in transit for 9 days.... With no update for 7 of them. UPS... Zero problems.

Once I get mine I plan on posting pics of all the mods and additions.

#9070 3 years ago

Aurich these pictures are making me regret not getting one of your kits sir! We need to be able to like posts bc they look amazing. Especially the front view one!

#9081 3 years ago

FINALLY got my package from Titan. Ordered it on Black Friday... Got here 2 weeks later.

But maaaan was it worth it. Here is what I can list from memory.

Comet: multiple frosted bulbs, slow color change bulbs, ice blue thru lane light kit, 3 uv light strips, uv bulbs, and some red fire and a blue fire bulb.

Titan: complete rubber kit in clear with blue flippers rubbers. More uv lights. New balls.

World of difference! The most noticable is the rubber kit. Wow! Looks aren't everything but man the clear looks better than the standard black. And the flippers are amazing.

The long uv strip under the back box I have hooked up to the start button light. My goal was to have it stay on during the beginning of klingon battle. It gives this great, spacey, eery, look when all the lights are off. Uv lights in back wall plus that strip.make the alarm light diffusers glow nice! It looks great. Put a smaller uv strip and lights at the right targets/away team behind the flipper. Makes it glow nicely. Subtle but noticeable.

Maybe my favorite thing is the red fire bulbs under the asteroid field and warp / left ramps. The fire just fits there and looks really badass! Had to remove one bc it got too dark and put a stock frosty white back in to brighten it up. I wish I could post a vid of it. 1000% worth it!

Putting the rubber kit on was easier than I expected but had ita challenges. I did take the left ramp completely off to get to 2 of them at the pop bumpers. Can't wait for the machine to BE CLEAN all the time instead of black tracks after every game.

I'm very pleased with everything. Coincidentally my first game on it after a good cleaning and all the modding I posted a grand champion score!

Please ask questions if you have any.

Cannot recommend Titans kits and Comet enough! Pics to follow.

#9082 3 years ago
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#9087 3 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Can anyone list the skillshots on ST? I just realised after playing AIQ and hitting all the skillshots on that game I don’t think I’ve ever hit a skillshot on my LE other than the warp skill shot but I haven’t seen what that was worth pointswise.

if you hold the left flipped and plunge the ball it will come around the left orbit. You need to then hit a lit target on your first flip for a skill shot. You can do this holding the right flipper also.

-1
#9089 3 years ago
Quoted from camcamaro1991:

Nice, but... you need protection aka Cliffy's, slings, ULEK's &/or pinbits protectors, those ramps & plastics will break.

The game has most plastic protectors already but they are metal and I want to swap them out for clear. Is like to add to the missing ones also. The game flies now so it might be that time!

The ramps have guards on them already but I might get the cliffys for them.

#9098 3 years ago

What seettinh do y'all have your slings on? I have a feeling mine are turned up way too high.

Is it personal preference? What is best for gameplay? Recommended from stern?

What do y'all prefer?

#9105 3 years ago
Quoted from Aard:

I have a Star Trek Pro and want to have some mods installed on it. What are your favourite mods?
I was thinking about upgrading the plastic ramps left and right with the wireframe ramps from the LE machine. Unfortunately I don't know where to buy them.

I have done a few mods. I like them all. And they aren't really that expensive. The play cards were free!

Vengeance light mod is the most noticeable. Along with the vengeance explosion under the ship. Both worth every penny. I got the sticker to cover up above the explosion as well.

I put a new rubbers set on it in clear. Love it. Noticing tho that it gets dirty FAST and I need to clean them already.

Did a bunch of lighting mods and changes and am very happy with them. The trough light is very good and looks great.

I would Love to do the wire forms like you said and do the eject up the loop onto the wire form. Now it ejects and often hits the sling and bounces directly into the right out lane. No fun.

Hoping for side blades and a headphone jack for Christmas. And there are some sling covers with hexagons etched in them that I'll be getting as well. Maybe one day ill be able to afford a better back glass.

#9112 3 years ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

Mirror blades look great on my pro. Relatively cheap and easy to install, I highly recommend.
I also put shaker motors on all of my sterns. It adds a whole new element to the game and the resale value holds more than other mods.
Last, if you have the money, this is one of the best games to add a color DMD to. Probably my favorite mod and a must have IMO.[quoted image][quoted image]

I definitely want a shaker and cointaker has them at $45 right now!

My pro has a color dmd too and I have to say it's by far the best thing on it! It's so we'll find that I forget it's a mod and stock is that ugly all red thing. Puke.

#9117 3 years ago
Quoted from FugTM:

Just checking the cointaker site, shows shaker still at $109. Where do you see it for $45? Is it a discount code or something?

https://cointaker.com/products?keywords=Star+trek

Both are on sale here.

Is it worth $45?

#9125 3 years ago
Quoted from cuebert:

Hey everyone! I picked up an Original run Star Trek Pro last week, love the game so far! Came with asteroids mod, mirror side blades and shaker. I just updated the code to 1.62 so we're all set.
The only thing I want to do to it is add a colorDMD to it, but from researching here and abroad it seems like the LCD doesn't sit flush and you need to either purchase the foam gasket they sell or DIY it from the hardware store. does the LED colorDMD sit flush? I really wanted to go with the LCD but i'm concerned the gap will bother me. Does anyone have a pro and the LCD that they could take some pics of to show how it looks recessed back?
Cheers

They do not sit flush. I have one and do not have the gasket. Can you see it, yes. Did it matter, not at all. It's a cheap thing to buy but when you are playing you can't tell. You can only see the gap from the side and light did not bleed threw.

At the end of the day I'll probably get one at some point, but I'm not in a rush and it is not necessary.

#9126 3 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

I have the Stern version and agree that a shaker is a great addition.
I went Stern since it was only a few $ more.
Haven't heard anything bad about the Red Tremor ones, except a few comments that they are very strong out of the box and may need to be adjusted to keep from shaking your house down.

So when you install a shaker you just go into the menu and turn that option on? Nothing else to program?

#9129 3 years ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Plug it in. The shaker setting by default is already on. Maximal is what I usually run. That doesn't really control the strength of the motor, but rather controls how much it is used and perhaps for duration of motor spins.
For the strength of the motor you would adjust the offset of the weights.

Thanks!

#9130 3 years ago

What are the plastics that cover up the lights in the upper pop lanes called?

Stock is blue, and I want clear. But I don't even know what to look up.

Thanks!

#9137 3 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Lane guides?
Make sure you get the right length, since there are multiple sizes.
https://www.pinballlife.com/1-12-double-sided-lane-guide.html

Yep those! Only not those bc the don't have the posts for the screws. But lane guides is what I need to search.

Thank you!

#9139 3 years ago
Quoted from cuebert:

I've always found there is very little wiggle room for the playfields in the cab. Sideblades of any sort are going to bite into any clearance gap. You just need to be super careful when pulling the PF out so you don't scratch/ding your sideblades.

I'm super worried about this if/when I get side blades. I seem to scratch the right side every single time I lift the playfield.

#9151 3 years ago

Ok guys...

The fuse for the coils keeps blowing. First time it blew I moved the left eject power way down. It didn't eject the ball and the ball got stuck. Then none of the coils would work. Blown fuse. Turned the eject power back to factory installed. Replaced the fuse and it worked fine. That was a few days ago.

Just blew again for no apparent reason. Replaced again and upon testing was good. But ball went in the left eject and the fuse blew again.

Fuse has blown 4 times now.

How do I diagnose what's going on? Not saying it's necessarily the left eject but that's when/where the problem started. Could also possibly be the magnet /drop target area as well.

Where do I start, how do I start, and what would I be looking for?

Thanks everyone.

#9153 3 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

Ok, this is a big no in my book. I have shakers in quite a few of my games, including Star Trek. But the reason I’m saying no is to the Cointaker Red Tremor. I love Cointaker. I’ve bought games and And a lot of LEDs from them. But I put the Red Tremor into my Iron Man and hated it. It was WAY too strong. It wasn’t engaging, it was distracting as hell. It was just violent. Detuning it wasn’t a great option because the flat spots on the shafts are intended to be at opposite spots. Then trying to move the weights anyway, the metal was soft and just stripped. Since then I just pay the extra and get the Stern one. It’s not a ton of money, and is just the right amount to add to the game. Just my experience and opinion.

Why not just get the regular cointaker one then?

#9157 3 years ago

Merry Christmas to me! Got my pingraffix side blades installed (wet method, super easy) and a very nice Titan pinmat! Wow that thing is comfortable! For some reason shipping was suuuuuper expensive on it, but I told my wife my feet and back will thank her every day for getting it!

Cleaned it, waxed it, shined it up. But it's super fast and even more fun!

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#9165 3 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Greetings fellow ST owners.
Might have a bit of a problem.
The metal plate on the Warp ramp
does not rest perfectly flush on the playfield. Is it terrible? No, but...
You can feel the edge of the metal plate as rub your thumb on it. It is noticeable when compared to the other two ramps which are flush and are nice and smooth.
Trying not to be overly picky but its one of things that start to bug a guy.
Any remedy? Any advice?
Thanks.

Mine does the same thing. It's minimal so I don't worry about it.

#9171 3 years ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

Make sure Pinbits is still up and shipping first
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/is-pinbits-still-filling-orders-the-sequel#post-6028107
Hopefully they are, but saw this thread about a week ago

Oh no! I'm glad you shared that! I was just about ready to pay for the sling plastics! I've wanted them for a while now.

This is not good!

#9188 3 years ago
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:

Zitt's bird of prey is spectacular. I'm working on installing the Nebula mod soon as well...
The Vengeance light ring is an absolute must for our family.
There's an Enterprise mod too, off of the Hallmark Kelvin that's another must have.
The Mezel Mods warp ramp diffuser and their Vengeance explosion mods are great.

I have the warp ramp diffuser as well. It's ok. It keeps coming off. It didn't have much to hold it in and needs a slot in the back so the wires don't press it to come off.

The vengeance ring light mod is outstanding. #1 best mod. I got the red one. The explosion mod is great as well.

One of the coolest mods are the dome covers. They do such a great job of making it look like the "beam me up Scotty" effect with the doke lights. Pretty cool. Not sure why they aren't on every game honestly!

Id love to get the bird of prey and Enterprise but they are pretty expensive.

I just ordered a shaker motor as well and hope to have it installed this weekend.

#9191 3 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

The problem with the Klingon and Kelvin mods is that they are expensive to buy as a pre-built plug-in product. It takes at least an hour for me to build the Klingon mod.. almost 2 for the Kelvin. Of course; both were available as DIY kits so you can do the labor yourself.
I don't even offer Klingon built-to-order anymore as I can't get the Mattel ship easily. Customers now how to buy and ship the ship to me for assembly at their cost.

Oh I totally get why they are expensive. That wasn't a dig. Heard nothing but great things about your mods! I just have to pace myself! I 100% want both of them. How would I go about doing the klingon ship?

#9201 3 years ago
Quoted from smersh:

So I had a J1 connector on the Warp ramp opto board loose and intermitting. I fixed that! I also had a broken diode on the spinner micro switch so fixed that. Turned on pressed start and nothing....after a moment it started game and started going right up the warps,, skipping sounds, double scoring, extra ball, heck I think it even paid my mortgage. All that with the ball in the shooter lane. I put in test mode and went to switch test and 4 optos where blowing up the test oscillating very fast, rapidly. None of the 3 other opto boards and there four opto would register. So I shut pin off reseted every opto connector to their boards. Seems to work and play correctly now. A little nervous. lol. I did read in a forum post from a few years back that the new code made the optos more sensitive and unplugging and plugging back in was recommended.

This is a intermittent problem with mine since the week I bought it.

My fixes (after a lot of frustration)...

1. Twist the opto wire directly under the magnet. The magnetic field can interfere with the signal if it's not twisted. (Dm me and I'll explain)

2. Reseat all the opto connections on the board under the playfield. Easy. Not time consuming. Just be careful.

3. Reseat ALL the connections in the backbox. Again, carefully. Pull on them a (very) little, then push them back in snugly.

My ST pro has done exactly this numerous times.to the point where I almost sent the boards away to be resoldered.

Good luck my friend.

#9205 3 years ago
Quoted from smersh:

Oh boy! I have pinball friends up here in New England that have Star Treks all models. I'm going to reach out to them also see what problems they have had. I think I'm going to try a glue gun and apply little amount of glue where the opto connector connects to opto board. I have done all reset connections and found 3 very loose and one that will shut opto off. I fixed that by apply small amount of solder on the 2 opto board header pins. Easy to do and made the connector snug. A temp fix until i check out parts. I will reset connectors on the boards in head next. This all started happening after code update. Crazy

Yeah I was told/I red somewhere that those pins aren't meant for many disconnections and will loosen easily. So don't tug them out and push them back. Just be gentle and secure them onto the pins best you can. Mine seem pretty secure in the box but under the pf there are some a little loose. It's really hard to tell which one is the culprit. From what I've gathered if one goes nuts, it effects them all.

And to twist the wire you just disconnect one end from the board and twist it half a dozen times. Then try to move it away from the magnet as much as possible. Reconnect it securely.

#9209 3 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Couldn’t agree more, Star Trek is one of my longest standing games along with Ironman, TRON and my Avatar and I’m considering letting all of those go except Ironman to make space and fund other games.
Don’t think I will ever move my LE on, it’s Ritchies best modern Stern layout imo and there isn’t a shot in pinball better than the warp ramp!

Bashing the ship is right up there too. Probably the most fun interactive toy in pinball! I love hitting the demogorgon in stranger things, but the Vengeance is just better.

I had a Getaway (also Ritchie). Absolutely loved it. Sold it and ended up with my Star Trek. It's awesome! And my shaker motor should be here this weekend.

#9210 3 years ago

AUDIO QUESTION.

The bottom speaker on mine is just a speaker it seems. And it's not very loud. Is it supposed to be more of a speaker or woofer? Are there gains we can adjust?

Really considering getting a subwoofer for it now after realizing it's not that great of a speaker. Concerned it's got a blown cone (no clue how that would happen).

#9214 3 years ago
Quoted from paulg100:

for the loose opto connectors, if you flick the pins out of the housings (press down the little tab on top of pin then slide out) then get some small pliers and squeeze the pins down a bit. slide them back into housing and you will find the connectors seat far tighter. Improves contact of pin to board and
probably better than putting hot glue everywhere.
Re the shaker motor its the first thing i added to my premium. It really adds allot to this game so a must IMHO. Worth buying a PWM board off amazon if your shaker kit doesn't come with one. that way you can fine tune the shake to what suits you.

Not familiar with a PWM board. I found a few of them on Amazon tho. Can you recommend one? Link?

#9220 3 years ago
Quoted from smersh:

For the best play on star trek, what are all of you using for a pitch? Using the bubble level on right side where is the bubble on your game?

6.5-7 ° for just about every game ever. I like mine around 7. Star Trek is no exception.

#9221 3 years ago

Shaker motor installed.

How do I dial in it? Tune it? Turn it down....

I got the regular cointaker one. It's amazing. But I could turn it down a little if it's possible.

#9224 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Is there a threaded rod that runs from one side of the metal bracket to the other? If so, tighten it.

There is yes. I will try that next. What does that do?

Quoted from DudeRegular:

You can change the orientation of the weights

I tried that. It either didn't shake or shook too much. It isn't easy to find a sweet spot.

It just sounds loose. Everything is tightened.

I'm going to get a PWM board controller and use that. A few other threads have outlined how to install them and everyone loves them.

#9228 3 years ago

This might be a dumb question... But...

Does it make a difference if the weights are going (rotating) sideways across the machine or if they are longways front to back?

I assumed it was only installable in one direction (rotating across) but I just got to wondering....

#9229 3 years ago

Also, the shaker motor itself is the loud part. Like too loud. Like annoyingly loud.

Anyone have this issue? Is it too much power? I have the pwm board coming Wednesday. Is there an existing adjustment I could try?

#9230 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Tightening it lessens the intensity somewhat. Try that first. It might be all you need.

I tightened it a bit. No difference. Maybe I will really crank it down later.

#9232 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Is the shaker motor loud, or are you hearing something else, like the playfield glass rattle? Try pushing down on the edges of the glass as you trigger the motor and see if it goes away. If so, add some duct tape to the edge of the glass in that area to stop the rattle.

I added tape to the glass thinking it was that, but the glass is off now while I'm testing. It's 100% not the glass, and not other parts.

I'm 99% sure it's the motor. I emptied all loose things. The noise is coming directly from the motor. And it really only does it at TOP speed. But at that TOP speed it is LOUD! My family is making fun saying there's a lawnmower down there.

Moving the weights only effects the shake. The noise is constant whether the weights are at 0 or 90 or 180°....

#9248 3 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

As far as playability there are very few changes. Instead of a kickback on the left, it launches a ball back into play in the shooter lane. Instead of shooting the ball up to the rail and dropping it into the lane for the left flipper it shoots it in front of the left sling to the flipper. There is really no reason to hold out for a Premium just snag the Pro and mod it up the way you like.

What he said! He's talking about the pro. The premium has a kickback and a VUK to the wire form. It also has wire forms instead of plastic ramps. And all the lights are RGB with clear inserts for a better light show

But as far as playing... Very little difference. I've got a pro, fairly modded and I love it!

#9251 3 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

Mine did not feed properly, I posted in this thread on how to adjust it. Took me probably an hour to sort out. It's just regular tweeking any pin needs.

My pro is very inconsistent. Will be great for a while then feed to the top of the sling again for a while.

What was your fix?

#9260 3 years ago

Just installed the pwm board to control the power to the shaker motor. Wow. Absolutely perfect. Turned it way down, maybe 30% power. Have weights set to stock.

It's almost darn near perfect. I'm going to mess around with the weights to see if I can add power and make it smoother.

But man... $8 and 8 mins to install it.

Why don't they just include it and charge $20 more preinstalled?

20210113_214230 (resized).jpg20210113_214230 (resized).jpg
#9263 3 years ago
Quoted from cldgin2:

I’ve joined the club! Traded my guardians pro for a pin I’ve wanted for some time . Love this game so much. It’s very modded here still a couple I can do!
[quoted image]

looks great! congrats! Do you like ST more than Guardians? When i got my ST PRO it was either that or GoG. Wondering what you think.

and yes, the color DMD is a must.

#9266 3 years ago
Quoted from cldgin2:

I’ve joined the club! Traded my guardians pro for a pin I’ve wanted for some time . Love this game so much. It’s very modded here still a couple I can do!
[quoted image]

BTW that topper is badass! Love that!

1 week later
#9303 3 years ago
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:

I just took your advice this week, picked up a cheap, used, polk psw10 off of eBay and grabbed a pinsub from pinnovators. Thanks for the recommendation, was well worth it!
One thing that surprised me was the option for headphones for a pin. As a newbie I'm just wondering: do people generally use that to get a better, more direct pin audio experience, or to reduce ambient sound in the presence of multiple pins in the same room in use at the same time? Or both?

Headphones add another dimension to the game. Stranger things is amazing with headphones. You're more... Immersed... No other sounds. Headphones are cool!

2 weeks later
#9411 3 years ago
Quoted from StoneyCreek:

cool, thanks for the advice. shame the GC score is now a sham!

You gotta cancel out the GC score!

This is common (happened to me a ton!) and lots of answers in this thread if you search it. But as mentioned reseat everything in backbox.

Also. Twist the wire under the magnet for the optos if it is not already twisted. And reseat the under playfield optos as well.

Feel free to dm me if you have continued issues or any questions.

#9422 3 years ago
Quoted from StoneyCreek:

Thanks, this is great advice and I'll follow it. I just had a 'center lane lockup' tech error crop up too, could be related. Sounds like the Opto needs some attention. I'll do some testing this weekend. cheers.

That was the very first error msg I got. All related. Good luck. It took me a couple months and my repair guy and $$ to figure it all out. But it's good and you can do it all yourself.

#9423 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

FYI, I've created some Star Trek 3D flipper toppers if anyone is interested in purchasing: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/109929
[quoted image]

These are lovely.

1 week later
#9453 3 years ago

Got Tantrum's flipper toppers!

Perfect!

20210219_210422 (resized).jpg20210219_210422 (resized).jpg20210219_210434 (resized).jpg20210219_210434 (resized).jpg
#9459 3 years ago
Quoted from smersh:

So i bought my Star Trek pro a few months ago. It worked fine until i installed new code. I started getting the frantic warp garbage and the machine going haywire. So i reinstalled the code with a new flash drive and the problem immediately went away and game played correctly ever since. Until Saturday night it started doing the frantic warp again. The pin hasn't been played very much over the last month. I did reinstall code of the same flash drive and the problem is still there. Any ideas before i start investigating?

Reseat ALL connections in the backbox. Lift playfield and reseat all opto connectors. Lastly, twist the opto wire under the magnet. This in essence cancels out any interference from the magnet.

Can we make this a sticky?

#9468 3 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

I can make your post a key post. What exactly does it fix, just so I can word it appropriately?

When the optos go crazy and triggers the warp ramp to go nuts. Warp ramp will rack up warps and you won't even touch the ball. Just gently (but firmly) reseating the connectors has done the trick the best. Also, twisting the wire under the magnet (if not already twisted) and moving it away from the magnet helps as well.

#9469 3 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

The connectors and pins will not tolerate repeated reseating. The pins are plated and the plating wears out.

This is very true. I do not mean to take them out and put them back in. Simply pushing them in gently but firmly will do the trick.

Definitely should take them off of you don't have to.

#9480 3 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Little shout out to Chris aka mr_tantrum for these flipper toppers, super cool guy who made sure the designs where exactly what I wanted and the quality is brilliant, highly recommend Chris and his flipper toppers.
[quoted image]

I got a ton of stuff from Chris for my Getaway that were all great! Got the flipper toppers for St and they are quality and look great!

#9490 3 years ago
Quoted from Boat:

Hello, I picked up a ST LE a bit ago. Doing a bit of dialing in. One thing I noticed is that the ball guide isn’t flush with the flippers.
I noticed I have blue ball guides, are they factory? [quoted image][quoted image]

These are the ones like Pinbits makes but they are not fulfilling orders.... The hexagon patterned blue plastics...

Where can I get these? I freaking love them!

1 week later
#9505 3 years ago

The upper spotlight... When is it supposed to be on?

I thought mine wasn't working then realized it's hardly ever on! It is a nice bright touch for the bumpers (I have uv bulbs back there for effect and it's great!) So I'd like it on more often.

Anyone know the rules for on/off of this?

1 week later
#9534 3 years ago
Quoted from ectobar:

In other news, both STTNG and ST have tough matchups in this round of the tourney. Go show some Trek love.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/round-2-greatest-pinball-game-of-all-time-tournament-edition-2021

Star trek is SUUUUUCH a better game than AC/DC. this should NOT be a close call. Go vote!

#9561 3 years ago

All of my GI just went out.

I lifted the playfield bc the warp ramp started going nuts while I was crushing a vengeance multiball. It hasn't happened in months! Been solid.

So I reseated everything. Went to play and the gi isn't working. And all of those fuses don't have their red lights on.

Anyone have any experience, wisdom, or help? I appreciate it. Thanks guys.

P.s. the warp ramp thing seems to be fixed again. Hahaha. Always sumthin....

20210321_212650 (resized).jpg20210321_212650 (resized).jpg
#9568 3 years ago
Quoted from Kjarkur:

For the stern star trek. How do I activate the vengeance MB? Rules says hit x time vengeance. What number is x? Does it mean that I have to hit when target is down?

You have to hit the drop target like 6 times maybe. Then it locks the ball inside with the target down. Launches a new ball and you have to hit that captive ball to release it. Or, if you aren't very good aim like me, it will release after a time. Hit the black hole for add a ball.

2 weeks later
#9595 3 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

This was discussed here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/opinioninterest-check-stern-star-trek-popcaps/page/5#post-5874987
Once the reworked caps are made available by invitation only; that is it.
I will not be re-running the ST Popcaps as the vendor was the same that sent me garbage for the stng popcaps. As a result I wouldn't give them another bit of business.
So; if you want a set of pop caps when they are made available - you'll need to follow the post above.

I have signed up and anxiously await this opportunity!

1 week later
#9619 3 years ago

Has anyone attached a USS Enterprise to the plastic ramps on their pro? Considering getting a hot wheels and attaching it to the right ramp at the return lane.

Would be easier in wireforms but I digress.... Thoughts on attaching it to the plastic ramps on a pro?

#9628 3 years ago
Quoted from StoneyCreek:

On my machine, all the Opto leads were twisted nicely already. It appears that the connectors are hot-glued! is that normal?
After seating all the connectors in the back box, and generally feeling like I didn't do anything of substance, the game works fine now. I expect this behavior to recur until I really figure out what is causing it. thanks for following up.
I'll have her open this weekend to try my luck at changing out the mini coil in the Left gate and replacing a broken (and unnecessary) actuator arm on the upper flipper assy.[quoted image]

It usually does feel like you haven't really done anything when I do this. It's just reseating. It's a connection issue and it just needs to be wiggled.

I would say the hot glue is due to the same issue and previous owner did it. Not sure I would so that but I guess I can see the logic of trying to keep them connected permanently.

2 weeks later
#9649 2 years ago
Quoted from Maleko:

How did it work out? If positive, can you post info, or link to the motor speed control switch?

I installed one on my regular coin taker shaker motor and it's freaking amazing. 10 min install and you can dial that motor in exact where you want it. Pretty much a necessary install imo.

1 week later
#9680 2 years ago
Quoted from shaunpurslow:

Howdy guys. I bought an ST Pro back at the beginning of the year and I have to say, it is my absolute favorite machine. I just love how it flows so perfectly AND I never feel like it's "out to get me" if that makes any sense. If I miss a shot it's not the end of the world and I can recover fairly easily. Other machines I have feel like the entire table is set to drain a ball for even the smallest mistake. (I'm looking at you.. Stranger Things..)
Anyway, I love this game so much I am thinking about upgrading to a premium/LE when one becomes available in my area.
So my question to you long term Trek fans... What other games out there play like a Star Trek? What should I consider for future purchases?

Slider man layout is almost identical. Never played it.

For flow.... Led Zeppelin is awesome. Even the pro is fun to shoot. JP is not fun imho. Shots are hard. Not good flow at all.

GOT sucks. Nuff said about that.

Deadpool is fun and can flow. Good shots and fun to play. Bksor PREMIUM is fun. Pro bloooows.

Not a lot of games compare to star trek for flow, fun, and forgiveness.

Stranger things is great fun! Avengers is cool but a very loooong game. TMNT can really flow but I
The scoring is whack and usually the play feels choppy.

Guardians of the Galaxy!!!! Now THAT is a game you can compare to Star Trek. Tons of fun. Tons of shots. Flow can be great. Try GOTG man.

#9689 2 years ago
Quoted from StoneyCreek:

Agree on the JP assessment. It's challenging in a very different way than ST.
Another good flow game, also simple layout but very fun is Beatles. I know there's haters out there, mainly because of the pricing at launch, but the ball times are fairly short, and it flows like crazy.

Beatles was way more fun when I got to play it then I thought it was going to be from looking at it. I was like... Emmm... This is a modern pin? Hahaha

But the fun only lasted like 5-10 games. Then I wasn't really feeling it. Very smooth and very good flow tho. Really i! if you hit the shots it flows with the best. But... Not a lot going on.

Definitely not comparable to star trek.

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