(Topic ID: 57136)

Star Trek Club.... Members Only!


By Jean-Luc-Picard

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 27 minutes ago by Zitt
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#5705 3 years ago

Just got some lexan fender washers for my Star Trek Pro to replace the metal discs on the slingshots (used to protect the plastics), has anyone changed the slingshot discs on a Star Trek Pro? Not sure how involved it would be to replace them as the ramps connect to the plastics which I need to remove. Any advice much appreciated.

#5709 3 years ago

Thanks both, that's good to know. I'll try it out!

#5714 3 years ago
Quoted from PureTO:

I'd like to change the led directly under the Vengeance saucer from white to red.... anyone know what the bulb type is?
Any possible part number and voltage is not legible on the base. Hoping Marco has one since I'm about to put an order in there for some other parts. (GI led there just for scale)

My first thought was take a look at this - Mezel vengeance explosion, have installed on mine and it's incredible, looks factory and adds so much to the game https://mezelmods.com/collections/star-trek-pinball-mods/products/star-trek-pinball-vengeance-explosion?variant=510580073

#5724 3 years ago
Quoted from itshowtime:

yes yo are right about the white light ...installed the red Led in my and a red film in the open top part of the ship....if you want some cool ideas for your star trek then yes you have to head north ...message me if you have time to see what i have done to my games

Do you have any images of this? Interested to see how you added the red film. Might like to try it myself

#5731 3 years ago
Quoted from Rschuetter:

Hey all, just joined the club yesterday with a Star Trek Premium. Looking at some of the tweaks and mods out there and I am a bit confused on the Klingon Bird of Prey. Most are putting in the new Bird of Prey from the recent movies, but it looks like all the references in the game itself is back to the old Bird of Prey shapes, both on the DMD and on the targets. Am I missing something or did Stern use the wrong ships?

The ships on the klingon battle modes appear to have the correct klingon bird of preys

3 weeks later
#5774 3 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Ok I have a basket full over on Zitts site, any other mods I should consider for my STLE? Is there a definitive ST mod list anywhere, tried a search so unless I am looking right at it and not seeing it, which is possible
EDIT: does anyone have experience with both the blackout mods on the market? Opinion? Preferred mod?

Nice to see a fellow countryman with a star trek! Mines a pro. Based near oxford. This is a good list. I have a bunch of mods can send pics if interested.
Bird of prey
Mezel explosion mod
Mirror blades
Trough light kit
Alt translite
Full cliffy's set
Warp ramp light diffuser
I'm sure there's a few more... oh the biggie is dialing in the warp ramp- consistent now every time

http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=549

1 week later
#5779 3 years ago
Quoted from JeffF:

Been loving out ST Pro for about a month now. Whatta great playing game and it's been an absolute joy to mod!
I still have mirror blades and a ColorDMD to install which will happen either today or next weekend.

I put mirror blades on mine, and new translite amongst many other things. Looks awesome!

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#5782 3 years ago
Quoted from pipes:

Did the same as well! I even got the LE stainless steel speaker panel for my Premium.

Looks great!

I'm thinking of buying the speaker light kits soon. And have the vengeance interactive led mod on order from beatmaster

Recently added kbop and trough lighting kit from mezel mods. And cliffy's everywhere.

Thinking of getting a shaker motor also. What a great game to mod.

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#5786 3 years ago
Quoted from pipes:

That's a good list. I have everything there and I can tell you they're all worth it. I held off on the shaker until recently thinking it wasn't really necessary. I was wrong. I can't imagine playing without it now.
It is a great game to mod.

Odd question but when does the skaker...shake?? I am strongly considering it but its the sort of thing that i don't know i'm missing.....as have never experienced it

#5795 3 years ago
Quoted from pipes:

Anyone else not happy with the look of the Hotwheels BoP toy and paint theirs?
Or am I the only one? Lol.
I just think the green/camo color looks out of place on the playfield. I'm happy with how it turned out. Now I just have to install Zitts wing LED mod and I'm set.

That looks awesome! I had considered painting as I had the first initial thought about the camo appearance, however when installed in the game and mostly lit from gi underneath I'm happy with it. Got to say though I would consider painting it in the future. Did you use standard modelling paint?

#5796 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

It gives a nice low rumble for each made shot, and goes crazy for Klingon MB. Having had it, I can't imagine the game without.

Excellent I'm fitting mine this weekend - will report back. What do you say to these scare mongers I've come across saying shakers are bad news as it loosens stuff on bottom of playfield with constant shaking? I don't believe it, interested to see if you've experienced any negative effects at all.

Way I see it pinballs are built tough and are intended to be nudged around, shaken etc. I mean they have pre drilled holes for them and code, plug in, even the LE models come with them so they must be fine!

#5799 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

No, that's nonsense. I wouldn't worry about the shaker for those reasons. I will say that it rattled my glass pretty fiercely when I first got it. I had to add tape to the glass to give it a tighter fit in the rails and tamp down the shake from the shaker a bit. But that's all stuff that people are used to dialing in.

Thanks, good to hear. So do you add electrical tape to the edges of the playfield glass? I assume there aren't issues with the translite glass rattling.

What is tamping down the shake? lol

#5806 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Definitely listen to pipes. Not everyone has problems with the glass rattling. When it happened to me, it was actually a bit difficult to trace. I couldn't tell whether it was the coin box, playfield glass, translite, etc. I kept running the shaker in test mode and pushing on things to see if the rattle would stop. Eventually, I discovered that it was the right side of the playfield glass. I tried electrical tape, but it was too thick for my channels. Duct tape worked best.
As for tamping down the shake, on my shaker, there is a threaded rod at the top. If you tighten it, it lessens the shake a bit. There is no in game setting to do this. The in game settings just deal with how often it shakes, not with what intensity.
Anyway, you'll figure it out. Hopefully, you won't need to adjust anything, but if you do, there are ways.

Thanks guys good advice. I'll try it out tomorrow

#5813 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Definitely listen to pipes. Not everyone has problems with the glass rattling. When it happened to me, it was actually a bit difficult to trace. I couldn't tell whether it was the coin box, playfield glass, translite, etc. I kept running the shaker in test mode and pushing on things to see if the rattle would stop. Eventually, I discovered that it was the right side of the playfield glass. I tried electrical tape, but it was too thick for my channels. Duct tape worked best.
As for tamping down the shake, on my shaker, there is a threaded rod at the top. If you tighten it, it lessens the shake a bit. There is no in game setting to do this. The in game settings just deal with how often it shakes, not with what intensity.
Anyway, you'll figure it out. Hopefully, you won't need to adjust anything, but if you do, there are ways.

Wow. I can't believe I didn't get a shaker sooner, what a difference!! I already can't imagine the game without it. No rattling either. Thanks guys

1 month later
#5883 3 years ago

Stern star trek owners - playfield angle: do you have it as recommended ie the spirit level as manufacturer intended, or do you Jack up the rear legs?

#5891 3 years ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Mine is right at the top of the line.

Thanks guys. Mine was at the lower end of the spirit level, but just adjusted it at the weekend to the top of the line just like your photo. I was interested as it has definitely changed the feel of the game. I like it! Feels right

2 weeks later
#5903 3 years ago
Quoted from Zora:

O.k., Perfect, I will tre this, thanks a lot!

First of all check the screw-bolt on the bottom of the drop target assembly is tight. If it is loose then Tighten it. Fixed it for me with no need for ledge adjustments

4 months later
#6111 2 years ago

I have a star trek pro, and just recently my game/ball occasionally ends early while the ball is in play (for no good reason), the flippers die, the ball drains (end of ball 1 etc)... I'm assuming this is a switch in the ball trough or something - causing the game to think the ball has drained?

Has anyone else experienced this?

Any ideas how i'd go about diagnosing/fixing this problem?

I'd really appreciate any pointers. Thanks!

#6113 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

I've had the same happen here. No idea why. All switches test good in the trough, no vibration closes that I can see. Plus it doesn't act like end of ball, it's just the flippers stop flipping, then the ball drains, then back to business as usual.

Mine seems to act like end of ball when it's still in play - so this may differ from what you've experienced.

#6116 2 years ago
Quoted from Budman:

Just joined yesterday with an LE ..... what a blast! I'm having a few issues. One is that once in awhile I start a game and it chooses a mission for me and feeds a ball into the shooter lane. The second issue is that right before multi ball( Vengeance I think) there is this loud , brief ear splitting shriek . It doesn't sound like a game sound effect, rather some sort of digital feedback.... makes one jump out of their skin!
Any suggestions?

The shriek is normal. Its the digital knocker. You can turn this off in settings

IT doesn't choose a game for you, I'd imagine you will still have not finished the previous mode when the ball drained, hence auto locking you into that same mode and hits ball into shooter for you.

That latter one got me too when I first got it

2 weeks later
#6195 2 years ago

My Star Trek Pro has just started registering random warp ramp shots but while the ball is totally elsewhere on the playfield. This could be linked to the right flipper but all happened quite quickly, following noticing the first few 'false warps' during play - I cradled the ball on the right flipper and the the game kept registering warp, warp, combo etc with the score increasing again and again.

Has anyone else experienced this? And any pointers on how I'd go about diagnosing/fixing would be much appreciated.

Thank you as always Pinside!

#6200 2 years ago
Quoted from camcamaro1991:

unplug & re-plug all optical 2-pin connectors at the boards under the playfield, insure the wires are twisted (to reduce noise in the signal) as well.

Interesting you say that re the 2-pin connectors on opto boards (I assume you mean EVERY 2-pin connector under the playfield?), as just yesterday I re-seated the 'two' 2-pin connectors on the trough opto boards as the game was occasionally registering the ball as having drained (when it had not). This issue seemed to be fixed from my re-seating.... could this be linked?

#6201 2 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

I fixed this for a friend of mine. Make sure that the optos on the ramp are aligned and that there's nothing blocking the IR beam. In his case, the chase lights had become unglued and were triggering the optos.

Thanks, i'll have a look - am I right in saying both IR beams need to be crossed to score a warp shot? In this case would both beams need to be broken for this to be the issue?

#6207 2 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

It’s alwsys a pair; a transmitter and a receiver. If they cannot see each other, the switch is closed.

Thanks, what I meant was - there is one beam (transmitter and receiver) halfway up the ramp, then there is another beam (transmitter and receiver) further up the ramp behind the back box. And i assume both these beams would need to be affected to score faulty warps. If this is the case re the beams.

I'll check re-seating all optos as recommended also. Thanks again

#6208 2 years ago
Quoted from camcamaro1991:

LCD requests! here is a quick and dirty video of the ColorDMD LCD on HIRES, I might have to lower the brightness so it shows more detail the iPhone camera can't pick up in this video, looks much better in person.
» YouTube video

I just got mine in the post today, I hear DOTS XL is the one to go for to get the authentic dmd look, will be installing tonight!

#6213 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

If you could put some video up of DOTS XL that would be great, I am leaning towards the LED at the moment, I don't like the Hi Res look on most games but it would be good to see some DOTS XL.

I agree, I'm not a huge fan of the high res look at all, DOTS XL is meant to be the best I keep hearing, and have seen videos of different machines with DOTS XL that look spot on. Will see if I can upload a video once installed.

#6214 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

If you could put some video up of DOTS XL that would be great, I am leaning towards the LED at the moment, I don't like the Hi Res look on most games but it would be good to see some DOTS XL.

This color dmd video is filming an LCD display in DOTS XL. Looks awesome! I don't like high res either so will likely stick to dots XL.

#6249 2 years ago

Anyone fitted flipper fidelity speakers (3 piece Inc sub) to their stern star trek?

And is it a worthwhile upgrade?

#6256 2 years ago

I'm just not a big fan of anything outside - below the cabinet - I prefer it all to be contained in the cab, I'm tempted by the meaty bassy set from FF https://flipperfidelity.com/sound/stern-speaker-systems/meaty-beaty-big-and-bassy-10-3-way-speaker-system-for-sam-and-whitestar-machines.html - looks like the best of both worlds! But each to their own.

#6257 2 years ago
Quoted from camcamaro1991:

unplug & re-plug all optical 2-pin connectors at the boards under the playfield, insure the wires are twisted (to reduce noise in the signal) as well.

Thanks, i've unplugged and re-plugged all optical 2-pin connectors, seemed to work for about 10 games. But now multiple switches are going off one after the other in a machine-gun like stutter (i'm in switch test mode) - see image to see affected switches, it seems to be left ramp, right ramp, warp, and centre lock switches that are affected. All IR beams 'appear' to be inline. I did the unplug/replug 2-pins again but hasn't fixed it.

Any ideas? I'm a bit concerned as seems a major issue but sure it is an easy fix once I diagnose what it is. Any help much appreciated.

20171030_183803_resized (resized).jpg

#6262 2 years ago
Quoted from spidey:

Do the red and black power wires as well. That was my problem.

I haven't managed to fix this and wanted to try this with the red and black power cables - I couldn't locate these under the pf? Any pointers would be great

#6267 2 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Well it started with the ~$450 ColorDMD, and then I got the shaker, mirror blades, the interactive Vengeance mod, a full set of Pinbits protectors, a full set of Cliffy protectors, Superbands for the flippers and all of the mini posts, Zitt's Vengeance Nacelle Mod & Warp Ramp LED, service rails to replace those stupid poles under the playfield. I think that that is all, but may have forgotten something I bought during my spree. Also, I'm looking for an Aurich translite (and full kit if possible).

I tried superbands on the mini posts, but found them way too crazy - so I switched to white rubber on the mini posts which IMO are perfect, but have superband sleeves on entrance to vengeance and the spinner post. Bit of a mix but it works really well! Yeah, I need to replace the white rubber more often but it's HUO and I don't mind a bit of maintenance every few months

#6276 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Great list of additions, ST is one of the few games that has a lot of high quality mods, with very few shite ones, speaking of high quality mods, I highly recommend @zitts Nebula mod it's possibly my favourite mod for ST and just adds a whole new level of awesomeness to the game!!

Is the nebula mod easy to install?

I've almost bought the pop caps so many times but just not sure I can be arsed with the PIA install. I wonder if I can install on the pro without taking the right ramp off if I just get a low profile L shaped screwdriver?

Other mods I have and would highly recommend are mirror blades, custom backglass translite, flipper fidelity 10" sub kit, color dmd lcd, vengeance explosion, kbop, lexan discs on slingshots, perfectplay flipper rubbers, new red led on vengeance, trough lighting kit, cliffys, shaker motor, and a few more I'm sure... I kinda went crazy with the mods! Really happy with all of them. They add so much to the game.

#6280 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

It really is not that bad. All you really need is a medium to long screw driver and a shortie and a nut driver as described in the instructions. Follow zitts guide and you will be good!
http://www.pinballsupernova.com/images/repair/sternST_PopCaps_InstallW.pdf

Thanks for this, in this guide it looks like he's got a premium/LE - where the left pop bumper is beneath the vengeance, however I'm sure on the Pro I can get to that pop bumper without removing the vengeance - can anyone verify this? zitt ?

#6285 2 years ago
Quoted from camcamaro1991:

Did you twist the wires that run under/near the Vengeance ship & PF, I believe there was someone that posted about that a bit ago in the forums. Also your optical node "boards" maybe loose under the PF, if they are loose snug them up, keeps them from vibrating and 2 pin connectors coming loose over and over.
2nd I prefer "switch alerts" or "active switch's", I tend to not use the test switch's. see pics. btw that's what you should see active 7 switches on a good working game on start up with pinballs in the trough.

Thanks I appreciate it. I'll give those things a try

#6296 2 years ago

Erm?! I just got a kirk combo and don't remember seeing that before. Pretty sure it was off a spinner shot to warp combo

IT came up with KIRK COMBO on the dmd!

#6306 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

There's gotta be more to it than that. I've hit the spinner to warp shot tons of times but have only seen the KIRK COMBO message once.

I could be wrong but I thought I only saw this during space jump modes

#6307 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Teheheheheh.
I got the order. Will go out later today.

Hey Zitt. Sent you a dm re pop caps. I couldn't resist either

#6326 2 years ago

Quite a beginner question I'm sure but can anyone explain how the scoring works after you have drained a ball on stern star trek? Bonus multipliers etc ..

1 month later
#6385 2 years ago

Can anyone recommend what sound settings they use with say flipper fidelity or pinball pro speakers on their star trek? I have the FF 10 inch sub kit fitted which is great! Just tweaking it now. Currently I have music volume down (+10) and sound effects up (-40)

Interested to see how you guys have it set up

#6386 2 years ago
Quoted from Bruce:

Can anyone recommend what sound settings they use with say flipper fidelity or pinball pro speakers on their star trek? I have the FF 10 inch sub kit fitted which is great! Just tweaking it now. Currently I have music volume down (+10) and sound effects up (-40)
Interested to see how you guys have it set up

For reference if anyone interested. The above setting created a lot of distortion on the speech and sound effects. I've now adjust music volume to 30 and speech volume to 0 - thus making the sound effects and callouts really stand out.

I'd highly recommend this setting. It's transformed the game, improved clarity and can play higher volume with no distortion. Love it!

Now to apply the anti rattle tape that was provided - to the glass. The 10" sub is rattling it a fair bit when I crank the volume. Hope that'll sort it

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