(Topic ID: 57136)

Star Trek Club.... Members Only!

By Jean-Luc-Picard

10 years ago


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  • 10,770 posts
  • 871 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 hours ago by bigguybbr
  • Topic is favorited by 377 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider SaminVA.
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#26 10 years ago

I have all 3 Star Trek pins
Bally Star Trek
Data East ST25th
Williams STTNG
And I am suppose to be on the Stern Star Trek LE preorder list.
I also have 3 working SEGA Star Trek SOS vector games.
One is the Captains chair
One dedicated upright
One conversion in an Asteroids cabinet with Vector Labs multi game with all the correct sound cards.

frontview.JPGfrontview.JPG frontview2.JPGfrontview2.JPG sttng1.JPGsttng1.JPG Grails_009.JPGGrails_009.JPG

#100 10 years ago

Actually; SamVA probably should be Admiral... I don't recall if he has the ST:Voyager arcade like I do... if so he's defiantly a little more hardcore than my collection. We'll have to revisit once my Star Trek: Mirror Universe project
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-mirror-universe-pinball
is done.

Yes, I have a working Star Trek Voyager cockpit as well as a NIB Star Trek Voyager Kit I opened and made sure it worked before putting it back in the box.
Just call me Captain Sam


STVoyagerCP_(2).JPGSTVoyagerCP_(2).JPG StVoyageronG07.jpgStVoyageronG07.jpg

#152 10 years ago
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

Anyone have the laser cannons? I am pondering getting them but I think they will take A LOT of the challenge away from the gameplay and make it too easy. Any opinions?

Yea I have the laser canon mod. Some say it helps but it doesn't help me but looks cool. Here's my install video.

#214 10 years ago
Quoted from Jags:

All you Bally Star Trek owners. I'm looking to buy a Bally Star Trek "Uhura" play field plastic piece as pictured below. If you purchased the full kit and used the original layout you would have this as an extra piece. Get back to me if you have one. Thanks!

You may already know this but if not just a heads up. I was lucky enough to get one of CPR's prototype back glasses before they sold out and I also ordered a set of their plastics which included the prototype pieces. When I installed the new back glass I had plained to only install the prototype plastics and install the rest when they released the reproduction playfield but when I compared the new to the old I found out the blue they used on the new plastics was darker than the originals and it just did not look right so I went and installed all the plastics so they would match. That was the only complaint I had and I hope they do a better job of color matching on the playfield. If you want to see the difference just watch my video. So if you want the colors to match you will need a complete set.

#236 10 years ago
Quoted from SteveW:

I hope you own a fire extinguisher.

I do have a fire extinguisher but I have never had to use it on a G08. The only game so far that I have seen flames in was my Dragons Lair power supply the first time I powered it up but the flame did not last long and put itself out. I also had a BurgerTime with a G07 that went up in smoke but no flames.

#237 10 years ago
Quoted from Jags:

SaminVA, Thanks for the heads up! Yes I have watched your video and that did go through my mind also. Figured the piece is isolated enough that it wouldn't be that noticeable. Not sure though.
Also I noticed in your video that you have a buzzing sound in attract mod that changes with the changing of the display from hi score to last score. I had the same problem with my machine. Seems that it is a ground loop problem with the sound board as once I unscrewed the sound board mounting screws the buzz went away. Decided to isolate the sound board from the mounts by using a thin nylon washer as a spacer and also 8-32 nylon screws to mount the board. Solved the buzz problem. I'm an audio engineer and I'm very familiar with ground loop buzzes. You may want to try that and see if it works for you.
Thanks again for the advice!

Thanks, I'll look into that. The game has been buzzing for the last 31 years, I just figured it was normal for those Bally pins but sense it's the only one of that type I own I have nothing to compare it too. I have a Stern Stars but that has the chimes instead of the sound board.

#242 10 years ago

I found this old post on RPG from 2011
Peter G
Tech: Weird Bally SS Sound Board AS2888 Issue

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Game is Star Trek
So i was getting a loud hum through my speakers each time the four
score displays light up in attract mode. After checking over
connectors and having no obvious issues, i connected a sound board
from another game (without mounting it) and the display hum goes away.

I then reconnect the noisy board back in the game without mounting it
and no hum...

I then move the board onto the mounting bracket and all of a sudden
the hum comes back (this is just while the board is on the plastic
mounts no screws installed). It appears that when the sound board gets
close to the back of the head (or the main harness) that this
interference issue occurs. Anyone else ever see this and know the
solution ? Right now i have the board mounted an extra half inch off
the back and there is no issue, but i would like to know what causes
this and how to fix it properly.

Thanks

Peter
It's a ground loop, and there's no solution other than to isolate the
ground points from the board from the head, like you have when it's
hanging. All early solid state ballys do this to some degree when the
sound board is mounted to the head (WMS, too)

-scott CARGPB#29
Yup.

All you need is electrical isolation. Even electrical
tape over the mounting bracket will work. Just so you
don't connect the ground on the sound board to the chassis
through the mounting holes.

-Mark
As Scott said, it's a grounding problem, producing 60 cycle hum.
You may be able to eliminate some if not most of it by going through
the machine from the power plug to the backbox, and making sure that
all
ground points are making good ELECTRICAL contact.

Ground check the plug, filter, grounding braid, all pins/connectors
that
are associated with ground.

I did this with an 8BD with success.

Jim

2 months later
#517 10 years ago

I feel much better now about the cost of the Stern Star Trek LE after seeing this QMX Star Trek 2009 Enterprise Artisan Replica which sells for $6,995.00. It's a nice model and would make one hell of a topper but I would rather have the pinball.
https://store.qmxonline.com/Star-Trek-2009-Enterprise-Artisan-Replica_p_147.html

3 weeks later
#611 10 years ago
Quoted from bailorgana:

I've been debating green or blue borg ship window plastics. I was leaning torwards blue because that is more like the original and the backglass... thoughts?
I'd love to see a pic of the green ones lit up on the whole PF

The Borg ship has blue windows because their supposed to be blue. The Borg ship is a Borg Type 03 ship which was Lore's rogue Borg faction and not part of the Borg collective.
http://en.memory-alpha.org/wiki/Borg_Type_03
Borg_type_03_model.jpgBorg_type_03_model.jpg
VOYbscs.jpgVOYbscs.jpg
Borg_Type_03.jpgBorg_Type_03.jpg

3 weeks later
#701 10 years ago
Quoted from Silkenone:

Any fellow owners ever come across problems with the eddy sensors?
Mine aren't working at all - yet it's not showing up as an error (no credit dot), which seems odd.

The eddy sensor board has an adjustment pot which will sometimes get out of adjustment with vibration. It probably wont show up as an error unless it was stuck in the closed position as it's normally open till the ball rolls over the eddy sensor which triggers the switch closed. Have you tried adjusting the pot? Their is a red LED on the board, I believe you turn the pot counter clockwise till the LED turns on then turn the pot clockwise till the LED turns off and then back it up just a little. I hope I didn't get that backward but you will figure it out wile adjusting the pot. Put the game in switch test and run the ball over the eddy sensor and see if the ball triggers the switch . I cover this briefly in my video around 12.26 into the video.

#703 10 years ago
Quoted from Silkenone:

Many thanks Sam. Will watch the vid when home from work.
Yeah, I've tried adjusting pots on both but the LEDS don't come on at all.
Switches aren't triggered by rolling ball over them in test either.
EDIT: Just realised who you are. Your video had already been a godsend, thank you! Fixed my optos thanks to that and it's how I knew how to try adjusting pots in the first place.
But, no, didn't work - no LED on either board.

Well if the LEDs on both boards never come on I would suspect a power problem. Have you checked to see if the board is getting 12 volts. On the 4 pin plug ,pin 1 is ground and pin 2 is +12 volts. You need to check with a DMM-voltmeter. If theirs no power their then check J 118 on the Power Driver board, that's where it gets the 12 volts from.

#704 10 years ago

Yippee, just got an email from my distributor
It says,
"Good News!
Your STLE Is shipping from Stern Today!! Attached is your Bill of Lading (Master Shipping Document) Please Look it over to be sure it looks correct. Tomorrow I should have tracking information for you. "

I am getting excited now

#707 10 years ago

Well it's gonna be a long weekend. My STLE has arrived at the Norfolk VA terminal but they are closed till Monday. So close, dam

#715 10 years ago

Well Murphy's law is alive and well apparently. My STLE arrived at the Norfolk shipping terminal late Friday night. I was going to see if I could pick it up today but this weekend wile getting my pickup truck ready I discovered a problem with my lift gate. The motor needs new brushes, sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't so I decided I would rather not take the chance. If you put the lift gate down and cant lift it back up it's like a boat anchor and your going nowhere.
So I called to make an appointment for delivery sense it's already paid for anyway. Looks like it will be here Wednesday between 12:00 and 4:00pm.
What's 2 more days.

#730 10 years ago

They are chaser lights like on a movie marquee and they are controlled by the CPU. Do your self a favor and get them working. Years ago when I got my ST 25, the small controller board was missing and my rope lights had shorts. I pulled the lights out of the blue tubes and found the shorts, repaired the shorts and replaced a few bulbs with ones I got at Radio Shack. I could not find the chaser board so I built my own from the schematic in the manual and it worked great. The red rope light string is found in Hook. I remember someone replaced the wheat grain bulbs with LED's so that might be a better solution. Just add a resistor to each LED so it will run on 12 volts.As soon as I get my STLE set up, (yea it arrived today) I plain to get my ST 25th out of storage.

#734 10 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

CONGRATS Question for you, did the STPRO come with a keyfob?

These were in the bag with the extra sling shot plastics with the LE. They only have one hole in them so would you say these are key fob's.
STLE 005.JPGSTLE 005.JPG

#752 10 years ago

Here's the un boxing video of my Star Trek LE # 012

#755 10 years ago

The only damage was the scratch on the inside of the box caused by raising the playfield that the factory tried to cover up with paint or a sharpie but it's not too noticeable unless you shine a bright light on it.. The hand plunger problem seems to be a common thing on new Sterns, not sure if the plunger is too short or the spring on the outside has too much tension. You can pull it out all the way and it barely gets the ball to the top of the playfield.
stle2 017.JPGstle2 017.JPG
stle2 016.JPGstle2 016.JPG

1 week later
#813 10 years ago

The Klingolaus

#835 10 years ago

Glad to hear you finally got it.

6 months later
#1421 9 years ago
Quoted from oscarspa:

Hi, anyone knows what is the ship on the transilete the LE version is the NCC-1701-D or the NCC-1701-E, regards.

Nether, it's the NCC-1701 reboot from the JJ Abrams lens flare vision of the new Star Trek. The D is from The Next Generation TV show and movies and the E is from the last STTNG movies.
Scotty said it best but he was talking about the original but it has the same number as the new reboot Enterprise.

1 month later
#1567 9 years ago

I got all my Star Trek pins in order the first was in 1982, or was it 83
Bally Star Trek 82or83,DE Star Trek 25th 1999,STTNG 2003,Star Trek LE 2013.
I got my Star Trek video games in between the pins.
SEGA Star Trek UR conversion 1985,SEGA Star Trek dedicated UR 1999,SEGA Star Trek cockpit 2000,NOS Voyager Kit 2004 and a Voyager cockpit 2009.

#1573 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Dang....and you still have them?

Yes I do

1 month later
#1733 9 years ago
Quoted from oscarspa:

Color DMD for ST
http://www.youtube.com/embed/9H9TKsme-G0?autoplay=1&rel=0
I would like to have this color dmd, can someone tell me how to do it, greetings.,

Very cool, colors look off for that part but it's a good start. It might be a long wait but I am betting on the ColorDMD to be the way to go but you never know what someone might come up with. That's why I haven't pulled the trigger on a ColorDMD for my ST LE yet.

#1771 9 years ago
Quoted from KevinCPR:

Hey Trekkie Club Members,
I'm not a member, but I came here to do a shameless plug for our just-released Bally Star Trek reproduction playfields. Thought you might be interested in the photo galleries at the very least.
http://www.classicplayfields.com/photo162.html
This CPR playfield release also includes our custom Nacelle Inserts Animated LED Mod Kit by default (one comes with every playfield), which marries with the repro playfield and its two hidden inserts. Here is the rollout page for this very special event in CPR history:
http://www.classicplayfields.com/startrek.html
The Bally Star Trek plastics sets (which include the sought-after prototype pieces) have also been re-run, and can be bought at a discount in combo with the playfields, or can be bought separately (in about 2 weeks) at our web site. They had been sold out for about 3 years after selling out quickly in 2011.
IF YOU MISSED THE PLAYFIELD RESERVATION at our site when the Inbox was open taking names, there may be a chance that when the buying group has been served, there might be leftovers available. If you want to be added to our backup-buyers list, just email me using our general web site email address, and I'll save your email. No guarantees we'll have any at the end, but there is a chance. Just throwing it out there, in case some newcomers missed the boat when we were taking names for two years.
KEVIN
Classic Playfield Reproductions
http://www.classicplayfields.com

So did you color match the blue on the plastics to closer match the originals or are they the same as the last run?
Pictures of the playfield look great.

#1797 9 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

My CPR ST pf is due to arrive today, this will be my winter project, been waitin' a long time for this.

I just got an email from CPR today for the ST pf. Trying to decide if I want the plastics set to go with it. I have the first run plastics set but want the new set if it's a big difference in the dark blue. Did you order the plastics set too? Decisions decisions, also comes the realization of swapping the playfield which will be my first one but ya gotta do whatcha gotta do.

#1807 9 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I also bought the first run of plastics. I guess we'll have to wait and see the difference. I didn't realize they were that different from the originals. I have done 7 swaps so far. They all have their quirks but ST should be a good one for your first attempt. My first was Xenon. I always run new bare supply wire(tinned copper) and new lamp sockets on all my swaps. I also tumble all the hardware in medium to fine walnut media. If you have a nice camera, 8 mp or better, take a bunch of pics, too many is not enough in my book, especially if you're away from the pf for an extended time, you will forget where things go. Also note all the screw placement, you don't want to run a screw through the top side of the pf. Take notes, be well organized and take your time. I use blue painter's tape on the old pf to make notations for placement of posts and other things that can easily get mixed up. Also pre-drill your holes before running in screws, this will help reduce the risk of slipping off or stripping out the head. For really tight screws going into hard wood, I scrape the threads on a soft bar of soap, an old carpenter's trick to ease the screw into the wood without binding.
ST has 2 star roll over inserts as you know. These will be coated with clear coat and will need to be cleaned out to make the stars move freely. This is a very delicate process and takes some small and sharp tools. The insert can brake easily or the clear coat can chip off the top surface and will need touch up so you need to be extra careful. I did 7 of them on Flash Gordon and it painstaking.

Well just sent payment for the combo so I am committed now. Guess I'll have to buy a long nose stapler now.
Shouldn't be too bad, I have a complete ST playfield with harness I bought some 10 years ago with a really bad playfield so I can keep my original playfield intact for now.

2 months later
#2284 9 years ago
Quoted from pauloz:

Main strategy is to try to stop the ball from draining.

That's my rule set for all my pins.
Rules, we don't need no stinking rules.
Just finished code.

2 weeks later
#2443 9 years ago
Quoted from wheels:

On my STLE, my manual plunger is barely able to contact the ball and it barely moves when it does. I have to use the Fire button. Anyone else have this problem? I confirmed that all the screws are in tight on the assembly underneath the playfield. The top of the manual plunger does graze the automatic plunger assembly, which I've noticed is different that the other Sterns I have including ACDC. Any thoughts?

Yea, my #12 LE was the same right out of the box. I find myself using the fire button most of the time but it seems to be working a little better now that it's been in use for a year now but it just barely makes the loop now. How ever my asteroid flashers are just like new because their still not used.
Thanks Stern.

#2478 9 years ago

The opto's and the ColorDMD run off the 12 volt unregulated supply as well as the motors for the cannons. Not sure what else runs off the 12 volts but if the fuse is blowing, something is drawing too much current. Do you have any other accessories installed that use the 12 volts? If nothing obvious stands out you have to use the process of elimination and unplug the stuff that runs on the 12 volt one at a time till the fuse stops blowing. Trace all 12 volt wires to make sure their are no shorts or worn insulation on the wires. You could replace the fuse with a circuit breaker of the same value for testing, fuses get expensive. You could put an amp meter in line with the 12 volt supply to see the amp draw.Dose the fuse blow at random or as soon as you power up? The time it blows could be a clue as to what's blowing it.

1 month later
#2699 9 years ago

This past weekend I installed a blue LED CoinTaker flipper button kit in my Stern Star Trek LE. Near the end I also show my double flex LED I made for the coin return buttons.

#2703 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Very nice and I like the use of the wireless mic.

Wireless mic, I wish. Those things are crazy expensive. I see John's Arcade just got one for his videos and it was between $600-700. Maybe some day but for now I'll deal with the wire. Just got the HD camera so I am still trying to figure it all out.

#2760 9 years ago

I wonder if the new code will include changing the dot's and adding some animation to some of the static non-moving pictures. A couple that come to mind are the picture of Khan when he say's My name is Kai (Khan) and Admiral Marcus, You better think about what you did on Kronos. They should at least make them look like they are speaking by making their mouth move. Can it be that hard? They did it on STTNG with Q and Admiral Biagi so why cant they do it on Stern Star Trek. One last complaint, wile I know people are replacing the music sound track with the original movie sound track I wish Stern would include the main title track somewhere in the game, even if it's only in attract mode. I am fine with the rest of the music but I feel it's criminal not to include it in the official game code. Again STTNG has the original NG music. Wile I haven't seen The Walking Dead in person it sounds like they have the original music from the show. Come on Stern, you can do better.

1 week later
#2842 9 years ago

Wile the new code is great with the fixes and new stuff, I am still bummed about not adding the main movie theme and the static lack of animation with some of the Dots. Everything else looks great.

#2849 9 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I like the music, I don't wish any of it was changed. It's all high energy, good pinball playing music.
The main theme from the movie is great, but I don't think it particularly works to play to personally.

Sure it does, it defines the Star Trek Reboot. Did not Williams Star Trek The Next Generation have original Star Trek music? Did not Data East Star Trek 25Th Anniversary have original Star Trek music? Hell even the Bally Star Trek played the Star Trek start up tune. All we get with Stern Star Trek is fake music that sounds like Star Trek music which don't get me wrong, it's great music but is it too much to ask for one original track from the two movies that this pin is suppose to be made after? Ok rant over. Don't get me started about the Dots.

4 months later
-6
#3615 8 years ago
Quoted from thedarkknight77:

It's the LED disk that is attached to the vengeance. It blinks and flashes with the game.

I don't know why anyone would want to turn the Vengeance into Close Encounters Of The Third Kind. It's a Federation Star Ship not a UFO. Some mod's should never be made.

#3666 8 years ago

Mine is a keeper but I am a Trekkie and a video game pinball guy.
It's an early Bally SS game that I have heard people say is slow and boring but I love the game.

4 months later
#4484 8 years ago

About the tird JJ Trekverse movie. Mom always said if you cant say something nice.
Yea I said turd

2 years later
#7069 5 years ago

Yea someone pointed it out to me when I got my Star Trek CPR reproduction playfield. It seems their may be 3 different variants of the playfield inserts but I think most were like the one in my game which you can see in my video. The CPR reproduction is just like yours which has white inserts where my original has yellow BALLY inserts on the saucer and one red and one white on the out lane inserts. I show the difference in my video near the end. I really need to install my new playfield.

1 month later
#7085 5 years ago
Quoted from scottslash:

I'm not saying you're not welcome, but y'all might want to take things to the STTNG owners thread at https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/
I *think* this one is for Stern ST. No matter to me. Just trying to help. They're both great machines!

I guess you did not read the first post in this thread.

"Hello Trekkie's and Star Trek Pinball Collectors.
That's right! A club for all 6 (Star Trek Pinball)!
You need to own at least "one" of the following to be in the club:
------------------------------------------------------------
Star Trek: The Next Generation: Williams, 1993
Star Trek: Data East, 1991
Star Trek: Bally, 1978
Star Trek: Gottlieb, 1971
Star Trek: Stern 2013
STAR TREK: THE MIRROR UNIVERSE
Make It So,
Captain Jean-Luc Picard"

1 year later
#7924 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

What is wrong with that front decal?
The engauge and insigna should line up with the start button.

The continue button is in a different position than mine. I wonder what's up with that?

sttng7 (resized).JPGsttng7 (resized).JPG
2 weeks later
#7993 4 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Thanks D-G
Hmmmm....I think I would have to spray on a foam brush then spread it around (if that's possible). One corner peeled a couple of inches, but the sides peeled off about 1/2 inch. Can't spray in there. I saw on the link gallons are available, I'll search around for a smaller container of liquid.[quoted image]

To re glue decals ,side art or vinyl where the adhesive has let loose for small areas I use a foam/plastic safe contact cement which comes in a tube called UHU POR.
I usually buy it at Hobby King an on-line hobby store but they are out of stock right now but I have also bought it off Ebay.
ebay.com link: 2 x Uhu Por Adhesive Transparent Flexible Expanded Polystyrene Glue 40g 50ml
Here is one of my videos where I fix a small area of vinyl on my Star Wars cabinet.

6 months later
#8589 3 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I get that CPR wanted to match the plastics to the play field... but imho; those plastics are just too blue as is the background on the PF.
I mean if you were going to go that dark; why not just make the background black?
Is it just me; or a trick of the pictures?

Zitt,I had the same complaint when I bought the first set of CPR plastics and they did listen back when they made the first run of the playfields and they changed the blue on the next run of the plastics. You can see the difference in my video I made when I got my playfield. I still haven't got around to installing it yet. Wile the blue on my playfield still looks darker than my original it's not as dark as the blue in the first run of the plastics. I noticed this playfield the blue looks darker and they did not paint the back gray like they did mine.

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