Have any of you guys seen these in person? They sure look great in the pics, but I've read some pretty bad reviews of them. If they are pretty nice though, they would be very fun to collect.

Ha! That's awesome! I love when things like that happen. My favorite is in X-Men when the Magento magnet throws the ball right back into him. I always think of it as Magneto punching himself in the face. LOL! I've also had that crazy magnet make the Storm and even Iceman ramps for me. Always fun.

Pure awesome. I agree they should be in order though...or at minimum all together with Avatar off to one side.

I really hope to do this someday as well (and heck...I'd be ok if an Avatar came along for the ride too, LOL!). You should be very proud!

If anyone has Aurich's translite and/or decal package available, please let me know. Thanks!

Klingon multiball

Just back the screw out a bit. That will make the ball roll off of it instead of settling there. Common problem, easy fix.

It's amazing how many people do not realize they can do this and it works great. I cringe every time I play one that hasn't done this....especially in competition. Glad it worked for you!

Those would be awesome if the proportions were better between the nacelles and the saucer. They should have shrunk the whole thing a bit if they ran out of room rather than give it a teeny tiny saucer.

FYI...you can buy the real thing from Marco...but they are very expensive.

That fix had to be coincidence. Flipper buzz is pretty common, especially on Sterns, and can usually be minimized by tightening the coil stops. Leveling the machine wouldn't have anything to do with it. It's a very sporadic, hit-or-miss quirk in these machines, so if it changed when changing the slope, it was just luck.

Also...don't trust the bubble. They are rarely, if ever, correct. Use an actual angle finder or digital level directly on the playfield if you want to make sure it's set up correctly. Some care about the 6.5-7 deg recommendation as designed...some adjust to taste and go by how it plays.

Sounds like a trough switch/opto problem. Try reseating any connectors going to them and make sure your solder joints are ok and the optos themselves are clean and aligned.

I'm thinking about the same. Maybe up to $5500 having both the Color DMD and Aurich package which is now tough to find and pretty desirable. I think closer to $5k would be a pretty quick sale, $5.5k might sit awhile waiting for the right buyer, but not crazy.

First thing you need to do is make sure you didn't create a short somewhere with the mods you added. I would start by disconnecting anything not stock. Check the optos and opto boards out closely for shorts, bad solder joints, loose connectors, etc. Then trace the opto board connections up to the main boards and make sure nothing looks fishy there. For the ones that are activating with slight vibration, make sure that the optos themselves are tight and not flopping around, and there is nothing near them that could be moving into their path. If the center one isn't responding at all, and the connections/solder, etc are good, you may have to replace that one. Thankfully they are cheap and easy to replace. There's an off hand chance one bad one could be making the others act funky. Optos can be strange. I had one go bad that would activate when I touched a nearby ramp with my finger. Crazy stuff.

For "coils won't test", are you remembering to pull out your interlock switch? Coils will not fire with the coin door open unless the switch is pulled.

Good luck!

Definitely not a code thing, so just unfortunate timing. It sounds like you have a flaky opto on your warp ramp. Clean them, make sure their connection is solid, and check that the mounting is not loose. If no change, check solder joints on optos and the opto board. Worst case they might need to be replaced, but if so they are cheap and easy.

Yikes...craziness. Glad you found the original gremlins. I'm pretty sure if mine was paying the mortgage I would just leave it be, LOL!

I wonder if maybe you could have plugged a connector in wrong (one pin off?) or created a short somewhere that caused the wackiness. Then when you reseated them again it corrected it? If it happens again, I would check everything over very closely for an intermittent short. It can be really easy to get a drip of solder or a stray bit of wire somewhere.

Yeah...the Pinball Life (or stock Stern shakers, though more $) are the way to go. Both Cointaker versions are awful. The Red Tremor is the most ridiculous thing ever. I like a strong shaker, but you are just asking for something to break using these, and they are a loud, unpleasant experience. Even their standard shaker runs at a faster RPM and just feels weird. With how cheap the PBL version is, there is really no reason to use anything different. They feel basically the same as the stock shaker. They work with the machine, rather than feel like they are trying to destroy the machine, LOL.

In general, no. Spike and SAM systems require different shaker circuitry. It probably can be done if you really know what you are doing to convert, but I remember asking Terry at Pinball Life about that awhile back, and he said no.

Yeah it should definitely be able to make the pops. In fact if you hold down the left flipper button when you launch, it should easily come all the way around for your super skill shot. Besides making sure the forks are centered, also make sure the mech mounting screws didn't loosen up, and check the coil sleeve and coil stop.