Star Trek
Bally, 1979
Star Trek
Data East, 1991
Star Trek
Gottlieb, 1971
Star Trek (LE)
Stern, 2013
Star Trek (Premium)
Stern, 2013
Star Trek (Pro)
Stern, 2013
Star Trek: The Mirror Universe
Pinball-Mods.com, 2014
Star Trek: The Next Generation
Williams, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider GoodOmens.
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Is there a way to turn off flashers during attract? I tried in “flash lamp power” to off in settings but I think that setting doesn’t do anything.
I saw this mentioned earlier but never a fix. I seem to have the left black hole standup lean into the left orbit, kicking balls into a center drain. I can bend it back l but usually it’s back to draining balls soon.
Is there a better way to realign it? I looked under the play field but couldn’t figure out away to realign.
Quoted from Zitt:Does MezelMods still sell the switch stack brace?
Yes: https://mezelmods.com/collections/diy/products/stern-target-splints?variant=923513721
What I don't know is if this will work on the black hole target or not. Maybe someone can confirm. I thought the LE (which I have) had a kick target... but I'm not sure. Mine is still packed from Houston Arcade Expo or I'd check.
Stern refrences part number 500-6985-XX, which is a "Standup Target Assembly 1/2 inch Rectangular." They seem to be discontinued / out of stock everywhere. Thanks for the tip - I'll email to see if they will work. Bummer since I just placed an order with Mezel...
Is this the correct resting position for the VUK deflector? It just moves further in when engergized...
Also attached is the underside. Stop seems pretty far in
65AD4B58-0015-4A9D-A9A0-D48AF22350EB (resized).jpeg996D0BB3-066D-4BBD-A076-F6C13459E698 (resized).jpeg
Edit: never mind. Adjusted so when resting it’s over the VUK. Set wrong from the factory... that rubber stop needed to go further back.
Any idea how to fix an issue where my drop target wants to send balls flying? No issues with it holding, but it seems the optos sometimes sees the ball a little early (when it's still over the target, or maybe when its falling back down?) and the target comes up and launches the ball.
I've tried shortening the spring (it's a blue spring), but it seemed to have made the problem worse.
Quoted from Jakers:Just joined the club with a really nice Star Trek pro. Loving it so far.
If I use the menu option of “reset to factory defaults” will that erase all audits or just return all the game settings to factory?
Also, my game is running 1.61 code. I see the newest is 1.62 but I tried multiple times to update and it will not recognize 2 different thumb drives I tried. I’ve updated my metallica and walking dead without problem. Any tips on updating the code on Star Trek?
Ensure the stick is formatted to FAT32. Other tip is to use a small usb drive. Like under 4GB. A cheapo freebie from a trade show that was only a few hundred megs is what works best for my game.
Rubber help?
New to maintenance and my first piece in my machine broke (Star Trek Premium). I'm having trouble deciphering the rubber chart in manual.
The #7 listed on the parts diagram broke, which I thought would correlate to 1.25" rubber. Measuring it makes it seem more like it's a 1.5" rubber (#6)
However, when going to order 1 of every rubber I'm noticing some things don't align. For instance what size is the #8 listed in the manual, its listed on the field but not the chart? Two #9's show up on the playfield but the chart says there should only be 1.... I also don't see the #6 listed on the field, which leads me to think the chart is wrong.
Anyone know the proper sizings of all the rubber rings?
Added over 4 years ago:I’m an idiot. I noticed on the ring was stamped 1 1/4. I’ll stick to what’s listed in the manual diagram and ignore the chart.
Quoted from JonCBrand:titan has a nice chart. also I think a game room supplier in Michigan sells whole kits by the machine
Can you point me to one on Titan? I see people have made various kits on Titan but they are all different. I don't want a full kit as I don't need every piece...
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:That final voyage badge is really cool. Guess they did that for the final run at Stern. Stern ST is a great game. Enjoy it.
I'm so bummed my Premium Vault doesn't have it, I guess they threw Pros a unique bone to have. 
Also great pics 
Flyfalcons - looks like you have some pretty serious hobbies - model planes and huge rockets, oh my!
Quoted from iluvak9:I purchased a New ST Premium from a Stern distributor very near the end of the Vault version sales and it came with the Final Voyage plaque.
Huh - maybe I should reach out to my distributer.
Quoted from Doctor6:This rant basically explains hobbit. It seems like a big bland box of fuck all nonsense, but when you know the ins and outs, it is incredible.
Back to star trek, I agree about the modes, but isn't that every game? Isn't batman 66 guilty if the same thing? I don't consider this a bad thing.
Hahaha, I'm borrowing a Batman 66 and after a few dozen plays just finally now starting to get the grasp of things. With chanel, playfield, shot multipliers it's a complex mess to know.
Star Trek could have benefited from a simple 2x in the red insert to alert new players what they mean.
Quoted from sulli10:Owned an STLE, got bored and sold it.
Recently picked up a premium VE. Put in a color dmd , upgraded the back box speakers, loaded the movie music software and all can saw is WOW!
What a great game! The music takes the game to a new level. I actually Think the VE for some reason is a better shooter then my original STLE. Just seems like the geometry works better.
I have to go back and really learn the rules ,but, it is a classic flow and rules game with lots of strategy options. I think this game is going to get the bolted to the floor classification.
Going to order the pin woofer system for the cabinet.
You mind taking a picture of your playfield? Trying to figure out if a piece is missing or if it was a change for the Vault Edition.
Mainly if the rubber in the arrow is also should be where the circle is.
Quoted from Scandell:What's a premium VE??
Vault Edition.
Inked20200707_183539061_iOS_LI (resized).jpgQuoted from gdonovan:Attract mode. I have non-pin people tell me they could stand there all day and watch it... so it has the desired effect.
If it wasn’t for the flashers I’d leave mine in attract all the time. Wish you could turn certain features off for attract like you can in SPIKE games.
Quoted from Aurich:Sorry, haven't answered your PM yet. I might have some extra decals lying around, I'll have to dig. I accumulate stuff over time that I stash away and then forget about. I used to make fun of my grandmother for finding Christmas presents she'd forgotten about in a closet during the Summer, but I'm slowly turning into her ...
Add me to that interesting list. I PM'd you a while back looking for a translite and assumed you didn't respond because of other things but guess you were just swamped.
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:Looking to replace the rubber on my Stern Pro, thinking Titan's silicone ones... (I've already replaced the flippers with their silicone, and I like it).
For those who use non-black-rubber rings, may I ask for some pictures of your setup? Based on some of the pix on Titan's site, I'm leaning towards orange for the slings, but am defaulting to black for everything else, though I'd be curious to see what others have done...
[quoted image]
I used white and kinda wish I went with red to match what I did with the flippers. YMMV, can provide a pic if you are curious.
Quoted from zephee:Hi Guys,
Does Star Trek Vault Premium have a shaker motor by default or is it an add-on?
Thanks
No - you have to buy it. It's an easy drop-in add-on though (get the S.A.M. version). All cabling and pre-drilled holes are in place on the Vault.
Quoted from gdonovan:Premium = shaker
That's incorrect. Vault Premium does not come factory with the shaker.
Quoted from gdonovan:The flyer clearly indicates it does.
It's a missprint that Stern never corrected (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-premium-has-a-shaker). Unless my distributer/Stern screwed me on my NIB purchase...
From TWIP .... Would have been cool.
On the craziest mech one of the designers brought to him that he knew would be costly:
John Rotharmel: For Star Trek, the Vengeance was originally going to be something much much more complicated and probably cooler to watch as well, but the cost got completely out of hand…you know how the field camera works in an NFL game, that air camera that spans the field? [Steve Ritchie] wanted to do something like that. And that turned out to be extremely costly. We almost got there, but finally we pulled the plug on it…but that is originally what Steve [Ritchie] wanted, a ship that would span the game.
Quoted from Mathazar:Known as "bricking". Less common on new games, but fairly common on older games. You can sometimes make adjustments for it....I've found that if the target spring tension is too strong on my EBD or MH, I get bricking more often. Looser springs have a tendency for more consistent drops, at least in a couple of my machines.
Yea my 2019 made vault that has all the fixes still does it occasionally for a really, really hard direct shot. Maybe once every couple of games, rare.
Quoted from shaunpurslow:Thank you everyone for the great feedback. I will try to find a Spiderman, GOT or LZ to play locally and see how they feel. I appreciate all of you.
There is also Fish Tales done by Steve’s younger brother Mark. Another fun (and punishing) shooter. Love backhanding the spinner on that one for the monster fish.
Random Q - for the premium / LE is it always supposed to go to the wire form or sometimes kickback? Mine always goes up. Curious if the deflector is adjusted right.
Flyer says should do both.
Quoted from J85M:No lose there, I hate the way it kicks back on the pro and was one of the reasons I wanted the LE.
Do later run premiums have the non adjusting VUK then?
No - same device as earlier. My 2019 build vault had it. From the factory the diverter was off centered/ mostly off at rest. I thought it was a mistake and re-centered it over the VUK but I guess it was intentional.
Quoted from CryHavoc:I've been offered a NIB premium for $7500. Am I an idiot if I buy it? I have been out of the hobby for a few years and looking to jump back in, so I'm not sure if this is a fair deal or not. I really want a Star Trek pin again, I regret selling my pro. Help me with a sanity check please.
Vault? That was retail so I say not a bad deal.
Quoted from CryHavoc:Yes, vault. Thanks for the input everyone. Nice to have some confirmation. And I thought pinball was expensive 3-4 years ago! But I need Star Trek in my life so here I go again.
Yea unless you can get your hands on a LE, vault is the way to go for this one. Has all the fixes and some slight under the hood enhancements to make it a little more robust.
Quoted from Ashram56:Color me intrigued... I've never looked into the details of ST LE, so I dived into the manual (which fortunately has the schematics), and it "looks" to me that rebuilding these phaser effects should be possible, unless I'm mistaken.
At least the signals seem to be there, from what I could see of the wiring diagram, it requires an additionnal 520-6820-00 board, and two specific boards which cannot be found online, respectively 520-6809-01 and 520-6809-02, but for which schematics are available in the manual. These last two boards seem to be the LED rails, 22 leds. I could not figure out if these LEDs are right and left of the PCB (ie interior and exterior of the cabinet)
There does not seem to be anything else required that I could see
[EDIT] Looking at the videos of an LE, I'm positive that each rail is 22 led long, placed horizontally, and with opening left and right of the cabinet you can either see them from the inside, or the outside.
The issue will be rebuilding these rails if they cannot be found online. Schematics are available, but I suspect building them will not be cheap because of the very unusual shape.
Best would be to use an Arduino to sample the control signal, which seems to be a simple serial SPI signal, and use WS2812 ledstrip instead...
I don't have an LE but can you test each bulb in the single lamp test? They are numbered 78-100. That might be a start. My only other thought is if its a feature that can be turned on and off. Maybe a previous owner disabled it? Try going through the features and see if you see anything.
Then I'd start to make sure it's wired correctly - reseat the connections listed in the schematic attached and maybe try replacing the two control boards and see if it changes anything. Maybe before ordering others you can even just try swapping them to see if you can at least get one side working?
trek (resized).JPGQuoted from HectorCM:Thanks a lot! So I followed your advise, and...
1. It is not something that can be changed in any setting/feature.
2. When I go and try to single test each phaser led, nothing really changes (the phasers from both sides continue to stay on permanently).
3. All cables/connection (from the schematic) seem ok...
You think I have to order new control boards? ):
I’d ping Stern first for additional trouble shooting before plunking down money on the parts: [email protected].
There might be a short somewhere. I’d try taking the board on the left side and swapping it into the right side. Leave the left unplugged and see if the right side works.
Quoted from Silvabullet:Wondering if anyone has had this problem or maybe can point me in the right direction. I purchased a NIB Star Trek Premium about two years ago. The game is out of warranty and I reached out to Stern for technical support and we've just been unable to resolve the problem.
So the problem is with the Ball Saver Kick back coil, #6. When I power up the machine the coil comes on and stays on blowing the fuse. Ran an ohm test and it measured 3.9 ohms, as rated on the coil. I pulled on the wires and they seem well connected. I followed the two wires and I didn't find any damage or pinched portion. I disconnected the two wires and was able to power up the machine without blowing the fuse, testing all the coils successfully. I checked the transistors on the board and most tested .42 with the coil disconnected.
I've been dealing with Stern and they were great in the beginning getting back to me except now after running all their tests and following their suggestions there's just silence and no one is getting back to me. I would gladly have a technician come over and look at the problem except I can't find anyone in my service area. At this point I would even consider taking Pin out of my basement and bringing it to a location to have it fixed.
Help! Love the game, and would love to have it working again. Anyone have any suggestions.
As others have mentioned might be a blown drive transistor. See this post (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-clubmembers-only/page/196#post-6404955 and their history in this thread) who had a similar issue with their gate. Except for Q51 I think you change Q54, that's what is driving the kickback (You mention coil #6 - but that's the VUK). Check the transistor, there are a few ways you can google to test. See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-q15-issue for one method. I think it might be a STP40NF10L? Should say on it - but if it's a bad driver it's a relatively easy swap.
Quoted from Ceemunkey:Hi fellow ST peeps - I'm hoping this might be common knowledge, but more and more frequently when I play I get random activations of Vengenace hits and warp ramp loops. I assume its an opto issue, but I've checked them in switch test and they appear to be ok.
Also looked under the playfield and checked the connectors to the opto boards were good (seems to be fine, they aren't exactly "tight" but I think they are ok). Is there any other place to look - anything in the backbox (eg, where optos connect to a cpu/power board or anything)? Do the warp ramp and vengeance optos all connect to the same opto board?
Have your tried putting in switch test and pounding on the playfield with your fist to see if anything triggers?
That’s be where I start.
Also for the optos did you just check the connectors or did you actually unseat and reconnect them? You should try unplugging and replugging in.
Quoted from Fifty:I know this has been beat to death, but I am going a bit bonkers trying to place a new rubber order for a Star Trek Pro. I know the manual is not accurate, so I'm using the Titan DB to narrow things down. The kits there are littered with extras, so I can't tell what is standard and what is being ordered as "extras". Also, the kits there have a 1 1/2" rubber that isn't in the manual.
I've pulled together this list so far...
#14, qty 18, 7/16" O.D. (Post Rubbers)
#13, qty 04, 3/16" I.D. (Top of Rollovers)
#12, qty 02, 5/16" I.D. (Bottom of Rollovers)
#10, qty 01, 7/16" I.D. (Above Right Pop)
#09, qty 02, 3/4" I.D. (Above Left Pop, Below Right Pop)
#08, qty 01, 1" I.D. (Right of Center Pop)
#07, qty 01, 1 1/4" I.D. (Left Side Right Ramp)
#03, qty 02, 2 1/2" I.D. (Slings)
#17, qty 03, (Flippers)
+qty 01, (Shooter Tip)
I've read that the #7 rubber might actually be a 1 1/2" size. Can anyone confirm this?
On my premium it was 1 1/2" 545-5348-07-40. Missprint in the manual. Stern can confirm for the pro if you email them but it should also be printed on the ring if you have your game torn down already.
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Lee's Summit, MO