Star Trek
Bally, 1979
Star Trek
Data East, 1991
Star Trek
Gottlieb, 1971
Star Trek (LE)
Stern, 2013
Star Trek (Premium)
Stern, 2013
Star Trek (Pro)
Stern, 2013
Star Trek: The Mirror Universe
Pinball-Mods.com, 2014
Star Trek: The Next Generation
Williams, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Gogojohnnyquack.
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I have a Premium Vault and installed the Stern Factory Authorized shaker kit from Pinball life and it worked fine for a day but tonight it started running constantly. It stops/starts with the coin door switch as a high-volt device should, and it stops when I pull the brown/white wire connection on the shaker board. The transistor on the shaker board is very hot.
Any thoughts?
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:I have a Premium Vault and installed the Stern Factory Authorized shaker kit from Pinball life and it worked fine for a day but tonight it started running constantly. It stops/starts with the coin door switch as a high-volt device should, and it stops when I pull the brown/white wire connection on the shaker board. The transistor on the shaker board is very hot.
Any thoughts?
Thanks for everyone's input. I contacted Pinball Life where I purchased the kit and Scott Danesi forwarded me to Stern support where I talked with Chaz. He said that they had a bad batch of shaker boards and instructed me to check the Q1 transistor on the shaker board to see if it is a P22NE10L, which it is. He is now sending me a replacement board and a return shipping label for the bad one.
I'll report back how it goes with the new board. Here is a pic of my bad Q1 transistor:
Quoted from Da-Shaker:There's a screw next to where your ball gets stuck and the pop bumper. It's been awhile, but I think it just screws into your playfield. Back it off a little until the ball doesn't get stuck anymore.
I haven’t been able to get that screw to move yet. Next is pulling the ramp for better access.
Quoted from Brog319:I noticed that the left flipper coil had a stuck coil sleeve. I was able to force the old sleeve out and replaced it with a new one, although the new one went in very reluctantly.
This is a sure sign that the coil has overheated and is now swollen. If the new sleeve has to be forced into the old coil then you need a new coil. You should also check the transistor that drives it - you will probably find that it has been replaced in the past after the original one shorted, locked the flipper in the up position, and heated up the coil. Not an unusual event.
Quoted from arthurrag:I have a STTNG, '93 by williams. When I bought it there was already an LED upgrade done. Now it seems there is always a couple of lights out. I open it up and check them and usually removing and replacing the lamps fixes the issue.
If you are referring to the wedge-style 44/47 bulbs under the inserts then I recommend checking the little contact wires on them. I have found that some brands of LEDs need the wires adjusted/moved/bent toward the outside of the wedge in order to make proper contact with the twist-in wedge base style sockets. Here is the socket style I'm talking about and pics of how to I adjust the wires. Comet's LEDs have a wedge shape that keeps the wires in place and generally don't need the wires adjusted.
44/47 twist-in wedge base
wires in the middle, may not work wires on the outside, should work
#star-trek-the-next-generation Topper Project - Make It So!
https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-It-So-Star-Trek-TNG-Mini-Engineering-Computer
FAVXUQWKB9D8LTM.LARGE (resized).jpgF6SDIX7KB9D8LTL.LARGE (resized).jpg
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Hot glue isn’t that aggressive.
Isopropol alcohol will release hot glue easily.
Time to go to school and then beat those GC scores, Trekkies! New tutorial video from Buffalo Pinball's @mcsirtuna. His #the_walking_dead tutorial gave me a whole new perspective on that game.
Quoted from Flippinski:Any advice out there for me? This is my first pinball restoration.
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Quoted from pinheadpierre:Looks like there’s some potential for shorting with those bare wire ends in your photo….
Word. Tidying those up is highly recommended!
Quoted from DVDA:Just joined the club with a premium and it came with a external Polk audio sub and I noticed the volume on speakers in the backbox are very low even after I turn of the powered sub. I also have more sound coming out of the sub in the cabinet than the speakers in the backbox. Has anyone else experience this? if so how do I correct this?
Sounds like (see what I did there?) the speakers in your backbox were replaced/upgraded and a sub-out was added. I did this to my #the_walking_dead and the speakers are now lower in volume than the cabinet woofer. I purchased an inline bass-rolloff inductor and volume control to balance it, but never installed them because I'm now used to the sound. The powered subwoofer should have its own volume and low-pass adjustments to blend it to taste.
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Seattle, WA