6/11/2018

In your example (buying 1 speaker light kit and 1 acrylic design set) you would only be paying $6.02 more to get my RGB Speaker Light Kit with an acrylic design set, as opposed to buying a single color kit elsewhere and the acrylic design from me. The double shipping takes away most of the saving you get from buying the limited, single color kit from someone else. As my shipping is set up....adding a Speaker Light Kit to an acrylic design order doesn't raise the shipping price at all. So it's the same shipping price if you are only buying an acrylic design or if you are buying a Speaker Light Kit with an acrylic design ($8.45 or cheaper for a Speaker Light Kit & acrylic design set, shipped in the USA). That includes the new, bigger / heaver SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kits even though I take a loss on the shipping costs.

With the single color kit you are also stuck with one color and that color is not adjustable. On my RGB light kits you can change the static colors shades. So if you want your blue a little lighter or darker shade of blue you can adjust it and save that custom shade to the remote. My kit also has adjustable brightness whereas the single color light kits do not.

My light kits do turn on and off with the machine and remember the last setting that the light kit was set on so it is the same when you turn the game on each time.

Also, if a person is sure they only want a standard red, green or blue color...they can do some creative things with the RGB controller or it's connections to make the single color of your choosing (red, green or blue) to be able to flash / fade / strobe that single color. Yet another thing you can't do with the single color light kits.

It seems that extra $6.02 cost adds a lot of useful features and flexibility that a single color light kit just can't offer.....even if you do think you only want the light kit set to one color.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

Home of the original pinball Speaker Light Kit

You can do it a couple of different ways....some being more easily reversible then others. What you are trying to do is to limit the colors that the RGB controller can send to the light strips.

So let's say you just want RED to fade on and off. There is no way to set the RGB controllers I use to just flash / fade a single color....BUT if you take away the green and blue signal....the RGB controller only has red left to display. So instead of the FADE3 going from red, green, blue, repeat....it will simply fade red on and off. I have done this on my Spider-Man and have it set to FADE7 and adjusted the speed so it has a nice red pulsing effect.

This can easily be done with any of the 3 primary colors (red, green or blue) and can be done in a much more limited way if mixing 2 of those colors. If you want to use yellow, cyan or magenta...you can cut off 1 of the 3 colors...keeping the other 2 colors to mix, but the only added effect you can get with those 3 colors is if you are using white and the only white only effect is the FLASH effect (though you can still adjust the flashing speed and the brightness with that effect).

The way I have always done this limiting of colors is to cut the pins off that connect the light frame connection cables to the RGB controller. Cut off the pins you don't want the color of and leave the color you do want. Many people don't realize it but those pins are USUALLY not connected to the connection cable or the RGB controller...they are standalone pin sets that are just inserted between the connection to hold the wires together. They are cheap and readily available on ebay if you would like to experiment.

ebay.com link: 4 Pin Black Connector for RGB SMD 3528 5050 LED Strip light Coppered

If you are ordering a light kit from me and would like some extras to use...please let me know at [email protected] RIGHT AFTER you place your Speaker Light Kit order and I would be happy to add some extra pin sets in with the RGB controller.

You can also cut the connection cable wires before they connect to the LED light strip or even pop open the RGB controller and snip the unwanted wires from where they connect to the controller PCB. Though keep in mind in either or these wire snipping cases....don't count on the color of the wires insulation to be the color of the signal that wire is sending. You will probably want to use a multimeter to test that. This is much harder to reverse if you later decide to go back to full RGB.

These same techniques can be used to make one light frame one color while the other light frame is another color. EXAMPLE: kill the blue and green signal on the right side and the red and green signal on the left and you will always have red lit on the right and blue lit on the left. This will be the case no matter what lighting effect or transition you have selected with the remote. In a case where red is used or a color that uses red to be made is used the right side will light up red. The same will be the case for blue on the left side. If you want both sides lit up at the same time, you would select white as white uses all 3 colors to make itself.

Sorry if this sounds complicated (which is part of the reason I don't advertise these single color effects). I have attached a picture showing how the pins can be snipped to make the different colors with my Speaker Light Kits and RGB controllers. The pin snipping is generally the method I use as it can easily be reversed and changed just by swapping another pin set in.

When doing any of this snipping or pin swapping be sure to have the RGB controller unplugged or the game turned off.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

PINS (resized).JPG

Using the FADE7 or JUMP7 effect works pretty well with red (better than the FADE3 or JUMP3) as it staggers the timing better. Instead of being red, blank, blank, repeat it is red, blank, red, blank, red, blank, red, repeat. So it makes the spacing between each lit period and dark period more uniform. The speed adjustment should also help with getting the pulsing / flashing effect you are looking for. Good luck.

http://www.speakerlightkits.com/Type-9.html

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

You would go to my website, select SPEAKER LIGHT KITS on the left or bottom of the screen and then select the game you want the light kit for (Star Trek: Stern LE) from the list of games.......and it takes to to the page to buy the proper light kit for that game (it's a Type 9 kit for ST LE).

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

Does the lockdown bar button change with the mode selected?

I didn't really know how the button reacted, but I thought it may behave something like that.

There was a DIY thread showing how one user used the RGB info from the lockdown button on Game of Thrones to control some undercab lighting he had added. I'm not sure if the button is wired the same in a SAM game oppose to a SPIKE system game. His DIY work did quite well on GoT, but I believe I heard the way the button lit up changed with the last GoT update and botched it a bit.

Star Trek LE would use a type 9 light kit:

http://www.speakerlightkits.com/Type-9.html

Go to www.SpeakerLightKits.com
Select "Speaker Light Kits" on the left or bottom of any page.
Select the game you would like the light kit for: "Star Trek (Stern:LE)" in your case.
Then it will take you to the webpage with details on what your light kit options are for that game.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)