I could use a little help with my ST. I was getting random ramp shots triggered in gameplay. Tracked it to the second left ramp opto. It was extremely sensitive would trigger by just touching the ramp or opto. I fiddle with it and now it is just stuck on. I need to remove the warp ramp to get to it but having trouble doing so. I have it loose but still don't see how it is suppose to come out. Anyone remove the warp ramp? Does it go out the back or pull it out from the front of the backboard? It would be nice to have some idea of how to do it before taking more things apart.

I don't understand when U say "stuck on"

I had the same problem. I can't remember if the opto was too tight or too loose. I adjusted it and made sure the eyes were in line. No more problems for over a year now

I've had it happen once to my warp ramp and reseated connectors under pf. *cross fingers* that's all it is. I may have cleaned the opto sensor too.

The opto is engaged all the time - shows as triggered in switch test. It was working but extremely sensitive. Hitting the left flipper would trigger it briefly and so would touch the ramp. I tried to see if it was loose and poked at it. I tried reseating connectors but they seem fine. It doesn't seem loose but might be dirty. I just cannot determine much with the warp ramp and plastics covering it.

next time someone lifts their stern st pf, can they see if all their flipper coils are the same? the manual calls for 22-1080 on all 3 flippers. Mine has 22-1080 on the lower flippers and a smaller coil on the top flipper. Im wondering if its a manual mistake or my game got the wrong upper coil. thanks

I'd like to know the same, even though I'm not with my game right now to check it

Bummer - just watched the "Naked Time" episode last week. I bought the original series after buying my ST Premium

http://www.foxnews.com/entertainment/2015/10/19/star-trek-actor-bruce-hyde-dies-at-74/?intcmp=ob_article_footer_text&intcmp=obinsite

next time someone lifts their stern st pf, can they see if all their flipper coils are the same? the manual calls for 22-1080 on all 3 flippers. Mine has 22-1080 on the lower flippers and a smaller coil on the top flipper. Im wondering if its a manual mistake or my game got the wrong upper coil. thanks

bump

Just lifted to check for you. Lowers are 22-1080, upper is a 23-900. Hope that helps, pics below

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I checked my coils and have the same - smaller coil up top. The manual is wrong about rubbers, too. I'm guessing it was written early in development before changes were made. I would just replace what you have with the same part.

As far as my opto issue, I got the warp ramp out of the way. You have to take everything off the top of the warp ramp to remove it. What a pain. After getting better access to the opto on the right ramp, I'm pretty sure it's defective so ordered a new one.

Back of the Vengeance ship mount ... Anyone know why this bracket is here? Is yours bent like this? Is yours hooked to anything?

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Help with scoring strategy please! I'm getting top scores of 75 million and am not getting any higher. I am able to hit warps. Max for me was 11 in one game and 4 in a row. Can usually hit 5 or 6 per. I'm having a blast doing it, but ....

I copied the below from a post in its thread (my paraphrase). Can anyone shed a little more light on each or any of these steps?

It just doesn't seem self-explanatory to me ...

Star Trek Scoring Strategy Basic Version:
- Build point multipliers at roll-overs using flippers to light
- Hit warps at every chance as ball passes (7-9 per game)
- Master the Alpha, Beta and Spinner lanes to keep control
- Lock balls then pick next Mission during pause
- Set up and Kickoff Klingon Multi-ball:
- Hit the 3 green lock targets on the middle-left
- Then lock two balls
- Hit those 3 green lock targets again
- Lock 1 more ball.

During Klingon Multi-ball:
- Keep the balls alive to drive scores
- Shoot from flippers, don’t look up, just keep balls in play

Check this thread out:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-strategies-for-the-average-player

It will help.

Thanks ...read the first page and already understanding better

thanks a lot for that, Thats what mine has too, 22-1080 lower, 23-900 upper. so my upper went out and i called stern, of course they sent me the one in manual (22-1080) which is a little bigger. When i called and asked them, they said its ok to use the 22-1080 in place of 23-900, it will just be a little stronger. What do you guys think of that?

I have that too. No idea why, but the King put it there...so it must do something.

No way. Unless they are exact strength, I see a broken warp ramp in your future

Do you think you need a stronger flipper?

This is just the basics of the game. Know what all the targets are for, how to get locks, how to get bonus multipliers, how to add a ball, and practice hitting all the ramps. My advice is just to play out the Level 1 modes in the order you like. Cradle the ball as often as you can and focus on getting your shot, especially in multiball. Be patient and try to mix multiball modes with other modes that have lots of shots. I wouldn't worry about warp shots, away team modes, vengeance 2 or 3 modes, or any scoring strategies. Focus on quality shots and being able to hit the start mission/away team shot to play out modes. If you play all the level one modes, get at least one multiball, and make it to Koby Maru, you should easily have more than 75m.

Stern Star Trek Pro - Balls exiting warp ramp will bounce on playfield and hop into the shooter lane once in awhile. I did put wax on table which seemed to cause this to occur. In the meantime Ive used Novus 2 and new balls but the problem still occurs.. Any feedback would be appreciated.

There's a warp ramp adjustment screw just at the exit of the warp ramp. You need a long skinny Phillips to reach it but it's easy. Just unscrew it and adjust the warp ramp left or right then tighten. Play and test. May take a few tries to get it right.

Mine does this as well but I can't decide if it bugs me enough to fix. It's kinda nice to have the break and the free rollover hits to increase the bonus X.

thanks for the quick response, ill give it a shot and follow-up with results.

My ST did this... found the wiring for the opto on the left ramp hanging infront of the warp ramp exit. Moved and tucked it out of the way. Warp ramp flow is more consistant now..

So what is the PD3 exploit?

That was old code. No longer exists.

^ Choice!

hahaha

I just recently picked up a NIB ST Pro. Everything worked great out of the box except for the Punch it button. It didn't flash and it wasn't working. Went and did a switch test and to no avail it wasn't registering. SO i took a look at the switch wiring and found that the Red/Yellow, Pink/Black wires were not connected to anything. I saw another connector that was there with the same wires and colors. Please see the pictures below. It looks like I have two "female" connectors that need to be added together. Would a Z Connector solve this problem? Thanks in advance!

-Pete

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Do you have a distributor? That's who I'd ask.
I have an LE; so unsure if they are identical from a wiring perspective.

Same happened to me - BNIB ST Premium. A section of wiring harness was laying in the bottom of the cabinet, never hooked up. Plugged one end into the wiring that ran to the Punch It button, then fished the other end up into head and plugged into board - worked then

I just got off the phone with stern. They are sending me a Z connector. Hopefully this fixes the problem.

This to me is unacceptable. This is QC issue. It's one thing for a bulb to come loose from shipping. But to have an entire connector missing or unplugged even. This tells the games are not played or tested for full functionality before leaving the factory. Unacceptable

Yes I agree. It is very disappointing to setup a NIB game and not have a major component working because of a missing connector.

That's nothing. I got a NIB Stern 2 weeks ago…haven't played it more than 30 seconds.

Cabinet node board was bad. Stern sent a new one. Plugged it in, only to find out that the CAT 5 cable was bad, plugged in a new one, only to find out that the SD card went bad, put in my friend's SD card (same game), only to find that another node board went bad due to a wire getting cut on a coil and shorting out a node board.

Now I'm waiting for the new SD card, which I will have today. Then in 2 days, I should have the new node board, and then my game should be fully operational.

By that time, I will have had the game for 16 days and only put on 30 seconds of gameplay. Sometimes shit happens. These are hand built and the machines travel thousands of miles before getting to my house, then up a set of stairs.

All my friends can't figure out how I stay calm and don't go off on the tech guys at Stern. I just figure they get yelled at all day. You get more bears with good honey than you do bad honey. And that at the end of the day, it's only a game. I play pinball to relieve stress, not cause it. Plus I know my distributor and Stern won't let me down.

I agree with you on some points but it is still hard to believe that they tested out my machine and didn't realize that the punch it button wasn't connected.

Either way I hope it is just a simple add this connector and it works.

We shall see. I'll keep you all updated.

When I received my NIB Premium it had no sound , none at all.
Stern had NO idea what could be wrong, so I said screw it I need to install the new code anyways, after that it worked for whatever reason.

Ah yes.....the bonus of buying HUO.

OK, so which side do I add 5-10 loops to?

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Thanks!

got a quarky issue arise lately. Periodically when i make warp shots or the vuk shot (shaker induced?), my right flipper and upper right flipper will do a slight semi-flutter like the switch is barely getting double tapped. I figure the problem is in the switch with the metal prongs making some sort of weird contact when the shaker motor goes off, but all the contacts appear normal. Looking for ideas mainly before i dig deeper but ill shoot over a pick of my switch tonight when i get home.

SKB - Try tapping/shaking on things in the switch matrix. I just had a flaky switch that worked in gameplay/testing but randomly triggered. In the test switch matrix, I could see the switch light for just a split second when hitting flippers and tapping the left ramp.

Added 6-7 loops to the spring. Still didn't fix problem. Took it back apart and the plastic bridge broke in two. I think I stressed it back when I had the credit card shim in, which was too think in the middle.

I'll call Stern tomorrow, and order another bridge. I assume they are cheap. Might just get 5 bridges and 5 shims, if they break this easy.

I don't understand how the credit card shim could have been too thick. Did you accidentally leave the washers on in addition to the shim?

Beam. Me. Up.

I just figured out that the flippers rotate which of these rollover targets are lit, allowing you to move the unlit target around to increase the chances of the ball rolling over it.

Anybody else spot this already?

Since Firepower

Flippers also switch "T R E K" in bottom lanes.

I think because it wasn't the whole length. Wasn't sure how to get screw holes out of it, so just did the inside. That caused it to bow when screwed down. Too think, and stressed the plastic shelf.

Talked to Chas today. They are going to send me another.

Are you sitting down? You can also choose what mission you want to do with the flipper buttons!

Just teasing ya!

Whatever you do, don't tell him that there's actually more than one ball.