If your clear plastics on STTNG have yellowed then Pinbits has a set for $30. Really makes the game look a lot newer. Some are a little tricky to install but well worth the time.

Zitt, Yes that is exactly what I'm looking for. Someone who bought the reproduction plastics from CPR and decided not to use the "Uhura" piece. Thanks for the offer of the scan but I'm not set up like you are as far as reproducing a plastic piece like that. By the way, how are you coming along with your "mirror universe" project?

Exactly what I was thinking!

Man that is bad ass! If I get an old playfield I'm going to do that! Love the random cat moments BTW.

Welp; IM me if you don't get a purchaser. Maybe I can throw the piece in with my mirror universe plastics when I commit them to printer.

I had a delay as I had to move my project collection out of storage ... those ashhats raised the prices regularly for the years I was on it. It was the last straw when they went to 363/mo for a 10x10 earlier this year. As I was finishing the back yard shed to replace it; I got another notice that they were going to 383.

It took me 6weekends to get the shed built and loaded with the projects/contents.

I'm working on the cabinet now; doing some regluing to make it sturdy. Plan to strip the existing paint this weekend.

STTNG owner, and proud to be a nerd !!!!
--ed

OK.... my STTNG pinball obsession continues into its 4th straight day (I'm guessing there are people here that have been 'suffering' for a lot longer!).

I've bought some LEDs from CT. I've bought replacement window inserts for my Borg ship. I've bought my Cliffy Neutral Zone protector from Cliffy. I'm thinking I will get those Hallmark Star Trek ships which still seem to be available on Ebay but what I really want to do is paint my shuttle and Borg ship..

Does anyone know of any good guides on model / spaceship painting out there? I was thinking of going into a few of the local hobby shops and talking to the resident modelling-person type but some instructional videos would be great to start with...I did find a few on youtube etc but was hoping someone would have a definitive guide on the best way to go about it.

Cheers!

Thanks! And that spok gif made the welcome ever more awesome!

Thank you very much Zitt! That may be the best way yet to get that piece. I'll PM you with my direct contact info so we can stay in touch regarding this.

I did just finish doing a 100% LED job on my Bally "Star Trek". Hope to be putting a video together soon to share with the community here.

Looking forward to seeing more progress on your project! What's the link to the thread you started on your Mirror Universe" Star Trek?

Thanks again!

You may already know this but if not just a heads up. I was lucky enough to get one of CPR's prototype back glasses before they sold out and I also ordered a set of their plastics which included the prototype pieces. When I installed the new back glass I had plained to only install the prototype plastics and install the rest when they released the reproduction playfield but when I compared the new to the old I found out the blue they used on the new plastics was darker than the originals and it just did not look right so I went and installed all the plastics so they would match. That was the only complaint I had and I hope they do a better job of color matching on the playfield. If you want to see the difference just watch my video. So if you want the colors to match you will need a complete set.

I hope you own a fire extinguisher.

SaminVA, Thanks for the heads up! Yes I have watched your video and that did go through my mind also. Figured the piece is isolated enough that it wouldn't be that noticeable. Not sure though.

Also I noticed in your video that you have a buzzing sound in attract mod that changes with the changing of the display from hi score to last score. I had the same problem with my machine. Seems that it is a ground loop problem with the sound board as once I unscrewed the sound board mounting screws the buzz went away. Decided to isolate the sound board from the mounts by using a thin nylon washer as a spacer and also 8-32 nylon screws to mount the board. Solved the buzz problem. I'm an audio engineer and I'm very familiar with ground loop buzzes. You may want to try that and see if it works for you.

Thanks again for the advice!

STTNG & DEST 25th owner here!

Man this thread has exploded. Who knew there were so many fellow trekkies like me out there.

Who knew there were so many fellow trekkies like me out there

Why wouldn't there be

7of9.png

I need to replace the scoop under the borg ship that you shoot the ball into. Does anyone have a pic of one, know what it is called or have a link to one on a website so I can order one.

Thanks in advance for your help.

I call an Internet Post Foul here....

You linked a THUMBNAIL of that photo?!?!?!? Jeez man, where's the large format high rez version?!?!

My apologies ,here's a peace offering

1062L.jpg

I need to replace the scoop under the borg ship that you shoot the ball into. Does anyone have a pic of one, know what it is called or have a link to one on a website so I can order one.

Thanks in advance for your help.

and the correction

seven_of_nine.jpg

It's none of those things. If you follow the "start mission" all the way up the middle it ends in a scoop hole. I'm looking for the scoop that goes there. Can you also send me a link to those ramps too.

Also where you circled "1" I need the little thing with three screws that hold the opto board in. Right now it is held in with three zip ties.

I think he's talking about the mode start scoop, the weldment that drops the ball into the subway?

Yes, THAT IS EXACTLY IT. THAT'S WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT........THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!

So can someone give me a link to one for sale somewhere?

Yeah I was thinking the same thing.. You have to be really quick on the scroll wheel

Hey I'm noticing a little problem developing with my STTNG at the start of each ball. The 'kicker' that spits the ball out so that it can be first launched into play has several attempts before successfully doing so.

What happens most of the time is that it just bounces back into the hopper to which it instantly attempts again to kick the ball out. After 3 or 4 attempts the ball drops down into the launcher and gets successfully put into play. Has anyone else had the same problem? It seems to be that it is popping the ball out with too much force which causes it to bounce back rather than just drop in...

Anyone else having this same problem? What did you do to fix it? I was thinking maybe putting something on the outer wall to absorb some of the ball energy but not sure what to use..

I do have a fire extinguisher but I have never had to use it on a G08. The only game so far that I have seen flames in was my Dragons Lair power supply the first time I powered it up but the flame did not last long and put itself out. I also had a BurgerTime with a G07 that went up in smoke but no flames.

Thanks, I'll look into that. The game has been buzzing for the last 31 years, I just figured it was normal for those Bally pins but sense it's the only one of that type I own I have nothing to compare it too. I have a Stern Stars but that has the chimes instead of the sound board.

The easy way to figure out if it will solve the buzz problem is leave everything connected and powered up and simple remove the mounting screws and move the sound board slightly away from the mounts. The buzz should just disappear! If it does you can then use the nylon washers and screws to isolate the board from the mounts. Let us know if it works for you or not.

Thanks!

You know There is more than just Uhura; right. Illia was created from the busty redshirt (as I call her). You can see the before here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52968060@N00/8223651958/sizes/l/in/set-72157632324309845/

My biggest concern is color match issues. Even the pictures I've seen of CPRs repos; the blues are way too blue. I think even peps who bought the CPR set said that they weren't really a match to existing plastics. Correction... SamVA confirmed the blue issue.

I made it a point of attempting to get the colors as close as I could. We'll see if that color match carries over to the printer.

Looking forward to seeing more progress on your project! What's the link to the thread you started on your Mirror Universe" Star Trek?

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-mirror-universe-pinball

Decided to isolate the sound board from the mounts by using a thin nylon washer as a spacer and also 8-32 nylon screws to mount the board. Solved the buzz problem. I'm an audio engineer and I'm very familiar with ground loop buzzes. You may want to try that and see if it works for you.

Great data. My machine does the same thing. Do you think inproving the ground between soundboard and it's psu would help? Isolating the grounds lugs of the soundboard seems like a temp solution to the overall problem.

One of the other projects I keep getting side tracked on is I've been working on a 3D model of an accurate Shuttle for the STNG... One day; I intend to finish it and 3D print it. I plan to put in some windows and some tiny Data/Picards like Bob'sMods did back in the day. Too many projects... not enough time.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52968060@N00/9354402461/sizes/l/in/set-72157604320572388/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52968060@N00/9357178980/sizes/l/in/set-72157604320572388/

It's not a problem improving the ground as the ground is already there through the wiring. What causes a ground loop "buzz" is when there are two electrical paths for the ground to take. In this case the wiring and the board mounts. You need to eliminate one of the paths to solve the problem. This was a common problem in doing sound work as often different equipment was plugged into different electrical outlets with ground and also connected to each other with another ground through the audio cable. This would cause the ground loop and the buzz. Solution is to have everything plugged into the same electrical source thus the same ground point.

Yes I know about the "busty redshirt". I'm not interested in her as she was not in the movie. I want to keep the movie theme of the game and Illia needs to be there. I just don't need 2 of her on the playfield and would rather have Uhura at her communications post and not Illia. I'll keep Illia (and her foot) on the two right side pieces. Hopefully if you can make the piece for me it will be a better color match with the originals.

I attended a Star Trek convention about 20+ years ago and I have a great story regarding my meeting with Mike Okuda and the shuttlepod "Onizuka" as was seen in TNG. I suggested that a model of the shuttlepod "Onizuka" be made and donated to the Onizuka Space Center here in Kona, Hawaii where I live. 6 months later I get a call from my High School aerospace teacher who now is the curator at the museum. She tells me that Mr. Okuda just walked in and presented a model of the shuttlepod "Onizuka" to the center and mentioned that I had made the suggestion to him. It's really cool to go visit the museum and know that I "made it so" in bringing a glimpse of the future of space travel to the center.

Just wanted to share! Thanks again!!

Onizuka_3.jpg Onizuka_2.jpg
Onizuka_4.jpg Onizuka.jpg

I found this old post on RPG from 2011
Peter G
Tech: Weird Bally SS Sound Board AS2888 Issue

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Game is Star Trek
So i was getting a loud hum through my speakers each time the four
score displays light up in attract mode. After checking over
connectors and having no obvious issues, i connected a sound board
from another game (without mounting it) and the display hum goes away.

I then reconnect the noisy board back in the game without mounting it
and no hum...

I then move the board onto the mounting bracket and all of a sudden
the hum comes back (this is just while the board is on the plastic
mounts no screws installed). It appears that when the sound board gets
close to the back of the head (or the main harness) that this
interference issue occurs. Anyone else ever see this and know the
solution ? Right now i have the board mounted an extra half inch off
the back and there is no issue, but i would like to know what causes
this and how to fix it properly.

Thanks

Peter
It's a ground loop, and there's no solution other than to isolate the
ground points from the board from the head, like you have when it's
hanging. All early solid state ballys do this to some degree when the
sound board is mounted to the head (WMS, too)

-scott CARGPB#29
Yup.

All you need is electrical isolation. Even electrical
tape over the mounting bracket will work. Just so you
don't connect the ground on the sound board to the chassis
through the mounting holes.

-Mark
As Scott said, it's a grounding problem, producing 60 cycle hum.
You may be able to eliminate some if not most of it by going through
the machine from the power plug to the backbox, and making sure that
all
ground points are making good ELECTRICAL contact.

Ground check the plug, filter, grounding braid, all pins/connectors
that
are associated with ground.

I did this with an 8BD with success.

Jim

There you go! It's a ground loop like I said. Easy fix to get rid of that annoying buzz!

Sure thing, here ya go:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16626

Yeah, in my experience it's a ground loop too. The post above detailing a need to secure all ground connections is probably the best course, as completely isolating the sound board from the brackets would leave it with no path to ground, right? Probably not a good thing?

Agreed. Nice contribution there. You're place in Trek history!

That's not correct. The sound board is still grounded through the wiring, other wise it would not work. The ground created through the mounting screws becomes a second ground path thus creating the loop and the buzz.

Thanks for the kudos!

Thank you! you are the man! I vote you for 2nd in command!

Ah, glad I asked. Didn't know that was secondary. Thanks for the info.