Stern ST customers were having issues with the Micro Display Mod being plugged into the aux plug on the right side of the cab by the coin door. I found out from ColorDMD that Stern had made some changes on just this title that was effecting this line.

I'm providing DK Pinball's power tap now for this title, which should solve the problem. Because the Stern power taps are a little more expensive than the WPC power taps, price for ST MDM's are now $124. I'm going to offer these power taps to be purchased separately for other Stern titles, as well.

Hi all. On my Star Trek Pro, I just got an alert that said "Trough Jam Switch" is malfunctioning. Does anyone know what that is? My game seems to play fine. In the switch test, however, there is an "X" on the screen showing the matrix where that switch is, indicating that it is malfunctioning. The game is registering all 4 balls in the trough. Very confused. . . .

Never mind, I figured it out . . . with the power of Google! The switch registers if a ball is stacked on top of the other in the trough. The switch must have glitched, and the pin just wanted me to test it. I tested it by blocking the opto light, and the alert cleared.

I got Sparkys MDM hooked up on my Pro. I put it on the right ramp just before the ball drop. Looks great there. I LOVE it. Thanks Sparky.

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thanks for the pics paul, looks good there.

I think it's the perfect spot.

You've found some great spots for all your MDM's! Thanks for posting them!

Stern Trekkers, I've got some warp ramp issues/questions.

What type of rubber are you using on the entrance to the warp ramp? I destroy that thing constantly. The stock rubber broke in about a week. I've had 3 different super band colored rings on there, they seem to last the longest but still only 1-2 months. And just this last weekend, I replaced a broken colored ring with a clear one and it broke over the weekend.

The ring is tight in there, as in being pinched at the back by the ramp. I'm thinking its putting extra stress on it which could be causing them to break. Pin gets played a lot, but not more than 1-2 hours a day generally.

Next, the metal flap on the entrance to my warp ramp is starting to warp. It sticks up a little and affects ball movement. Should I tape it down some how? Or adjust the ramp? I remember seeing a thread on adjusting the ramp, however, my warp ramp is still very makable, and gives a consistent feed to the flipper, hence I haven't been too eager to mess with it.

I'm guessing if I could adjust the ramp by moving it back away from the post a little it might solve both my issues, just not sure how feasible that was.

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_{Post edited by ectobar: added picture}

I have the superband minipost rubbers and they have been working great. It seems, from the comments that I've read, that they work for other pinsiders as well by the Warp ramp. I think your problem may be that they are getting pinched, like you said. I checked mine, and I have plenty of space, so I'm not sure why yours are pinched. However, they do come in two sizes. While 7/16" is specified, they also come in 3/8". I bought those by accident, and they work fine. That extra 1/16 of an inch might be just the space you need so that they are no longer pinched.

The pinching on the rubbers is what I suspected as well. I replaced all of them on the pin originally, and all are still going strong with this exception.

For a great mod such as this how could I NOT post.

The white rubber in your picture looks larger than the blue one to the right. Are they the same size? It definitely shouldn't be pinched. They also look different, with the blue one having a flat bottom. The blue rubber looks correct. The white one does not.

They are the same size to my knowledge. Didn't actually measure, but when I ordered them I got a variety of colored ones, and then another batch of clear ones. The one in the picture is 'clear'. Got them from pinball life, the clear ones are most certainly shaped different. Colored ones having a flat bottom, clear not. I think diameter is the same, just the clear one in the pic is split open so looks a little wider.

What are the shaker effects like with ST? I just ordered a shaker kit since I already have one on ACDC and MET. ACDC is great, but MET is a bit 'meh' with the shaker. Hopefully ST is better than MET is.

Rob

To my knowledge, they are all supposed to have flat bottoms. Perhaps they sent the wrong ones with your batch.

Shaker is pretty darn good in Star Trek. I love the effect the shaker gives at the start of Klingon Multiball. Probably worth it just for that!

I put a cliffy post there at the warp entrance. But be warned, it's a bitch! Threaded pf.

The shaker is great, especially with the flow of the game. I wasn't sure I needed it at first. Now that I have it, I can't imagine the game without it.

Do you have some photos?

I just broke my first one the other day. It's the exact same one that broke on the OP's game. I plan on ordering a bunch of super band ones and swapping them all out on the game. So the correct size for all of them is 7/16"?

Had the same prob with the stock black ones. Put new whites on and OK so far. I think Stern was using some dried up old stock--they went to crumbles.

Yes, but as I said, I accidentally ordered the 3/8" and they work fine.

For those that were interested in my Stern Star Trek custom caps ... please see:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/opinioninterest-check-stern-star-trek-popcaps
I'm taking Pinhead feedback on the design... and prepping quotes to have them CNCed out of 6061 Aluminum.

Color DMD for ST

http://www.youtube.com/embed/9H9TKsme-G0?autoplay=1&rel=0

I would like to have this color dmd, can someone tell me how to do it, greetings.,

My Vengeance drop target occasionally registers two hits when it should only register one. I remember seeing a post about this with a recommended fix, but I can't find it. Does anyone know? Thanks!

What I haven't tried yet but is supposed to really help is add a couple thin washers to make the lip the target sets on slightly deeper.

I saw that fix somewhere, but I thought it was for a drop target that wasn't resetting. Mine doesn't go down (unless it is supposed to), it just sometimes registers two hits when it is only hit once. Do the washers still work for that? What's the theory? Thanks again.

The rubber for the warp ramp, I ordered a bunch of them. I trimmed the back of the rubber and it has lasted a lot longer than the original untrimmed rubber.

Different note, is stern sending a fix out for the emblem on the warp ramp? Note sure how they didn't perfect that before shipping. Lots of times, I don't even realize it is blinking.

STLE & STTNG here!

Stern no. But TMezel did. Cheap mod with good results. Pics and how to make your own in here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/st-proprele-warp-ramp-insignia-lighting-mod-/page/2

I've had the target fall twice, with a quick reset in between them. I really think that lip issue is the root of multiple problems.

I'll have to watch it more closely. I'm pretty sure the target isn't dropping. I think it just stays in place, but the coil hits the Vengeance twice as if it received two hits. The sound effect even registers twice. Maybe the target is dropping slightly, and I don't notice it. Too busy watching the ball shoot back down at me. I'll try playing with it with the glass off.

This afternoon, I replaced all the black mini post rubbers on my STLE with clear super band versions.

Holy crap does the game play fast now. I love it!

Very cool, colors look off for that part but it's a good start. It might be a long wait but I am betting on the ColorDMD to be the way to go but you never know what someone might come up with. That's why I haven't pulled the trigger on a ColorDMD for my ST LE yet.

I noticed the same when I put my super bands on. The ball bounces all over the place! Definitely a bit different, but fun.

What has it done for air balls?

It hasn't changed anything in that respect. The best cure for air balls is still slingshot power at 15-16 and a decent pitch to the game. I still get some air balls, but it is not because of the super bands.

Agreed. I haven't noticed any increase or decrease in airballs since installing the super bands. They are just are just way bouncier than the black rubbers. The ball zings all over the place now. It definitely keeps you on your toes.

well im in the club finally.....but i got tons of work ahead of me to get this monster working (tng)

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not to dirty right folks....lol

I put cliffy posts at the warp entrance and it has reduced air balls very much. I'll post a pic later this week.

Oh my god. Would it be easier to just buy all the parts and build one from scratch?

You'd be surprised what can be hiding under dirt. A good cleaning can unearth some nice games.

i'm sure you're right. but this thing appears to be missing most of the parts too. no slings, no cannons, no lanes, no plastics, no apron, no flippers ... and the pic only shows the lower half of the playfield. if the rest of the game is in similar shape, he is going to be purchasing most of this game from parts suppliers. playfield could be nice though, granted.

Oh, I was assuming he'd already stripped those to begin cleaning and shopping.

ohhhhh. uh.

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yea i removed the apron and lanes etc already lol. everything works on it mostly. just need a coil for the start mission and left cannon. i plan on taking my time because this thing had been in some dusty ass storage for who knows how long.

Post progress pics! I bet you coax a good looking game out of that dirt.

The cabinet looks ok from the one pic provided, decals seem alright. You've definitely got some work to do cleaning that playfield but that will make the project all the more satisfying once it comes to life. Good luck with the restoration

I also find the bounce prevents a lot of automatic drains down the outlanes. That's not a bad thing for me, since my skills are just average to begin with.

I've now spotted what was happening in action, and it is exactly as you described. I want to try the washers, but it is not immediately obvious to me where they go. I've lifted the playfield. Do you need to take the drop target assembly out to do this? Does anyone have a picture? Thanks!

Anyone have advice on getting the chase lights working on ST 25th Ann. ?