I had no idea it was a pinsider, i thought it was the name of the mod hahaha.

I sent him a message

Won't do any good, he was given a cease and desist by Stern I was told.
If you've got an Aurich setup now, you have something special.

Really? was the Cease and desist for the spekaer panel mod or the awesome translite art? (or both?)

My understanding was he got a C&D for the entire art package.
I don't think they can "C&D" more generic art like the speaker panel; but I understand him not waiting to fight the battle .

Aurich's stuff was a package with the translite, speaker panel, score cards, and a few other things.
It's cool and I really like it, but yeah, not worth any legal trouble for him.

My pro has it, very nice quality. I need to list the translite one of these days as I prefer the stock one. Going to have a pin yard sale if a few weeks, too much stuff underfoot.

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I am interested in the translite please. Keep me in mind.

Hi fellow Trekkies. I'm sure plenty of others have run into this issue, so I was wondering how owners are going about replacing this plastic? It's so commonly broken, is there a replacement or a decal someone has made that can be applied to clear plastic that anyone knows of? This picture is just an example, mine is missing completely so I'm looking for alternatives. Appreciate the help. Thanks!

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If you are talking about that gap between those two plastics, that is normal. They are 100% two separate plastic pieces and were designed that way. Strange that both would be missing completely.

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How it looks on mine:

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If you can find someone who has a plastics kit that's willing to part with those two pieces, that might be your best option. Otherwise, Marco Specialties sells a Premium kit that includes them, but it's pretty pricey. Unless you have a lot more plastics that need replacing/missing, it's probably not worth it. I don't think Stern or anyone else sell parts piecemeal.

You're right. The top left side of the plastic is there on mine. It's the other one. The right side plastic that's completely missing. It's so generic. I was thinking I'm just making a decal for clear plastic to replace it. Does anyone have a scan of that plastic by any chance or if not, would anyone be willing to scan their plastic?

Sorry if it was discussed but I was wondering if it is easy to tie in a RBG flipper buttons with the led colors as the game goes on. Would be cool to have them do mission colors as it is happening. I have a premium edition.

No. Never a mod. No one has figured out how to decode the RGB node boards or figured out another method.

I am in need of a crank arm. Does anyone have an extra?

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I carry both on my website:
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/crank-p-58.html

stumblor created a WPC mod dubbed Pinpoint that can use sound triggers. There is no SAM version yet, but maybe if everyone threw money at him he'd develop one for us all.

https://stumblorpinball.com/products/pinp?_pos=1&_psq=pinpoint&_ss=e&_v=1.0

Hey all, I just got a Star Trek Le! What a gorgeous pin! So I have a tiny ding in the right head decal.

Anyone happen to have an extra right head decal they would sell me?

Thanks in advance!!

It may take forever but I believe a distributor can still get them for you.

I'd love to get some advice on tuning a Stern ST Premium. I've owned this now for a few months and have a few questions. I love this pin and it will probably never leave my home so I'd like to get it playing better. It had relatively low plays when I got it. Recently the whole thing was cleaned with Novus 1 and balls changed out but I actually think the problem is worse now.

The Warp Ramp has never been smooth in my opinion. I know this game plays fast but it's a miracle to hit that darn thing and even more a miracle to get 2 hits in a row. I think my record is only 3 in a row over probably 100 games. Most likely it goes up the Alpha Quadrant ramp instead. I've seen videos of game play that seem so buttery smooth. I also have this game virtually on Pinball Arcade for iPad and there's no problem hitting the ramp there.

Beta ramp is kinda hard to hit too. Alpha seems to be the easiest one.. Some of this may be my game's level setup. What percent are people setting this game at and get smooth play?

Also on plunge sometimes it will 'bobble' and not come out cleanly - coming out by the upper flipper and not at the upper lanes / pop bumpers like normal. This only happens about 1:100 times but still makes me wonder if I can tweak something to help that.

I also have the hardest time hitting that Away Team shot. Not sure if there's anything there to help that but to practice.

Lastly I've seen some plastics sets and other examples of this pin on here that seem to have a clear plastic piece over the Vengeance shot. Mine doesn't seem to have that. Marco has a whole plastics set, but I'd like to find just this piece. I've had a few balls come out of there wacky.

Thanks for any advice on helping me tune this fantastic and fun pin!

Plastic: https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-star-trek-vengeance-plastic.html

I would order a bunch of those, this way you have them.

As for the Warp shot, it is not an easy shot to make. The ones who make it look easy are the pros.

Away team shot: Practice, Practice, Practice.

Thanks. Yep that's the one. So I'm guessing either it's always been aftermarket or Stern started adding it after mine was built.

Yep. Learn to time dropping the upper right flipper to help shove the ball down that path. If you just leave it up the ball often bounces back out.

First off, after a good cleaning and ball replacement, the game will play squirrely af. I'm due for a good cleaning and I'm kind of dreading it only because I know how much faster and unpredictable it makes the game feel for awhile. Depending on how much you play, it will slow back down though.

As for the warp ramp, there are a couple things that can help. If the ball is not returning to the upper flipper smoothly(as it drops down from the top orbit to the lower orbit), that can be adjusted. There's a screw you can loosen up by the where the ball exits that lets you adjust the plastic ramp a bit from side to side. It's a tough trial and error thing, so only mess with it if balls are like bouncing back to the shooter lane, or taking any other weird hops/bounces when exiting. I had to adjust mine a bit.

The other thing that I personally did, based on a post I saw around here a long time ago, was to put a few pieces of velcro felt(the furry side) along the part of the warp ramp plastic behind the playfield back board. So when the ball is traveling around, the felt slows the ball down just a bit. Maybe a bit of a cheat, but it really helped with my timing and I can more consistently hit 3+ shots in a row now.

Beta ramp is just a timing thing. You can backhand it from a cradled right flipper, but it's not always easy. I've even been able to backhand the away team shot on occasion. It can be done. Backhanding the left orbit and alpha ramp are easily doable and my preferred way of shooting them.

As for the plunge issue, is it only on manual plunging with the shooter rod or also with the auto-launcher? If it's just the manual then perhaps the shooter rod is misaligned somehow?

I think this one is an aftermarket one.

Just don’t quote me on it.

Thanks for the tips on the warp ramp. It appears to be mainly on auto launches - like on ball saves. I'll check out the launcher arm and make sure nothing is bent or binding. I've got all new rubbers and this fall/winter I want to take some of the upper playfield apart for a much better cleaning and re-rubber the whole thing. Maybe I'll see something is off when I can actually get in there and see what is happening.

I took the glass and with the game off played with plunges for a while today and couldn't get it to happen with manual plunges. I was also watching how the ball came down to the upper flipper and it does gently bounce off the right side twice before the flipper. I don't see any adjustment there. Best thing may be to just play it a while and see if she settles down.

I'll skip the velcro for now. I actually like that it takes two different timings of shots to hit it - the first shot then MUCH faster subsequent shots. Plus if I ever see one in the wild I'll be better prepared to play it. But I can see how making it more consistent could be good for home use.

Looking for the left backbox decal for STLE if anyone wants to sell me one or direct me to a source!

Yeah the auto-launcher is a completely separate mechanism from the shooter rod, so if it is just the launcher then it probably is slightly bent or out of alignment. I don't really have any solid advice on how to go about fixing that sort of thing, so I'll let someone else chime in on that.

Here's the spot where you can loosen a screw to make the warp ramp exit adjustment.

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When you loosen the screw, you'll be able to slightly slide the plastic underneath the beta quadrant return lane from side to side, changing the trajectory of the ball exit. There's not much play, so even a tiny amount can have an effect.

For me, adding the velcro felt was actually more of a way to keep the ball from exiting out too fast and taking odd hops or bouncing back down the shooter lane. I wasn't getting as much consistent results by adjusting the exit alone. The slowdown effect is only slightly noticeable and also depends on how much velcro you put. I think I did a strip of about 2-3" along the straight part behind the backboard and another little piece along the wall of the curve as it heads to the exit.

Hey all, need some help. I bought an sttng. It has leds in the gi (but not the inserts.. why?!). Anyway, a few of the gi lamps are flickering. And the flickering moves!! I’ve swapped bulbs around, etc. finally after reading about the dimming on sttng causing flickering, I just went ahead and put a gi ocd board in it.

Still flickering!! I didn’t think that would be possible. Other than switching all the led out for incandescent, any thoughts?

You need these add-ons (for both GI and for Inserts) for STTNG to work properly with LEDs:

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/led-ocd-boards

I’m not sure I made that clear, but I did put a GI-OCD in and still flickering. Would putting a led ocd in make the gi stop flickering?

Ya, it wasn't clear at all that you had the GI-OCD board in your STTNG which is why I pointed you to that. If you've got it in, something certainly doesn't sound right. Any LED should work with that board in that machine (regular or non-Ghosting LEDs). I've got it in my STTNG, along with the version of the board for control (insert) LEDs, and I've got no flickering whatsoever.

Is the flickering worse with the GI-OCD board out? Maybe something wrong with that board or it's not installed correctly? Be sure to thoroughly read the STTNG Club topic....tons of great info in there for new STTNG owners and lots of posts regarding the OCD boards for GI and Control. And you'll get specific STTNG support there as well. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club

What do you mean by this? Individual bulbs are flickering?

Have a Stern Star Trek translite for sale.

$40 shipped in the US.

Pm if interested.

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Yeah. One time one bulb is flickering. Then another time it’s a different bulb or a few that flicker! So weird.

And it’s exactly the same with the ocd board. I’ll triple check my setup. Crazy. Weird signal being sent from the mpu?! Idk

No. LED OCD is not for GI so it wouldn't help you.

You said that the LED that flickers moves around. Are you able to narrow it down to a specific few LEDs that take turns flickering or is it seemingly random?

Seems like under the slings then up under the Klingon ship then up in the back left

Looking for a set of head decals for a Stern Star Trek Pro. Local dist has been asking Stern for over a year (along with a couple Spike boards) with no answer.
If you have something, or know of someone selling a set, please let me know.
Thank you.

I tried to get one for a Premium, was impossible and gave up in my case. Tried Stern and a distributor.

Looking for the alternate translite that Aurich did. Bonus points for the decals also. Hoping someone has one collecting dust somewhere lol

Two questions...

I've had my ST Premium for a few months now and have a question about how my Vengeance reacts when defeated.
Note: when I bought the game I had to replace a transistor (Q53 I believe) to get the Vengeance to move. I believe there's a test function for Vengeance so I'll try that tonight.

My Vengeance moves when hit but doesn't crash to the playfield when defeated like I've seen in some online videos. Did that code change in the last couple years, is there a setting, or perhaps even something wrong with my game?

Second, has anyone found a good way to slightly mute the flasher under the playfield by the pop bumpers? It's quite bright and tends to blind me. I'm thinking maybe I slip a cover over the bulb or something. I did point it more horizontal and that helped some.
Thanks.

Man what a great game. Made my way up to Pinball Gallery last month. With 80 games there, I spent the most time on their Star Trek LE. I had a pro for a bit and my STTNG is bolted to the floor. I'll rotate one through again some day. Why are the warp ramps so hard!

I figured you as having an LE.

Which do you prefer, Next Generation or Pre/LE Stern?

I think Stern may have more code but I think STTNG is the better game for me.

STTNG is the longest sitting game in my collection at over 4 years. My wife is a huge Trekkie watching STTNG, Deep Space 9, and Voyager as her comfort show while doing laundry continuously. My wife and I have watched almost every episode of every season of every Star Trek show together (1/2 season away from being done). STTNG is our favorite.

From a pin point of view it hits ALL and I mean ALL of my boxes. Nostalgia from something I knew as a kid... my parents had one in their amusement park growing up. It has a license that I know, love and grew up with (and my wife loves it). It is by my favorite designer (Steve Ritchie). It is from my favorite era of pins (DMD Classic Bally Williams). It has the best theme integration for its time (Full voice cast and full assets). It has a great back glass with all my favorite ships and actors. It has great side art. The playfield art is... okay. It is a Super Pin. It is a flow monster with a Wizard Mode I can sometimes get to. It has great toys with the Borg lock and Phasers. It checks every box I could conceivably want and from a personal perspective is my all time favorite. It will be the last pin to go for me and for less than the price of a Stern Pro I can't be tempted to sell/trade it away for something else.

The Stern Star Trek is another great game with a great theme. The code is arguably better and it is 100% deeper, but there is no nostalgia there for me with that one. I've had a Stern Star Trek Pro and will probably temp trade for one again down the line. I will say the LE has the best armor of any pin. I will also say that for its price point Stern Star Trek is a huge bang for the buck pin for me off of theme.

Just to add my thoughts regarding the 2. I know you already know, but for others to see, I have a Next Generation I just restored and a Star Trek LE.

- Next Generation has by far the best theme integration of any game out there. All the voice actors. All the major bad guys (is Q truly a bad guy) in the show. The music.

- Next Generation is a fantastic shooter. I saw that as someone who isn't really a fan of wide body games.

- Star Trek LE, can't agree more, by far the best armor of any pin. Very disappointing that Stern can't match that with all the LE's after Star Trek.

- Where the Stern code is better, is that modes need to be played through. The weak spot with Next Generation is you can just cradle the ball to time the modes, which I refuse to do. I want to earn Final Frontier. Secondly for Next Generation, I am not a fan on the lasers on the cannon. On my first Next Generation machine, I did have that....just made the shots too entirely easy.

Putting this out here for a lucky chance:

I need the right head decal for Star Trek LE. If anyone is hoarding a set, could you PLEASE spare the right head, or just let go of your fears and sell me the whole set? Pretty please?

Or does anyone have a high res scan of that by any chance?

Had a power surge at my house New Year’s Eve. It blew all kinds of things - our stove, hvac equipment, led lights. And a few other things. Thank goodness for the varistor on my ST Premium. It may have saved it from damage.
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I had a few on hand because another pin I own was missing one entirely. All my pins will have one now, the $1.50 is totally worth it.
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Hey anyone have a lead on a replacement ramp for the left Alpha Quad ramp?
The right entrance to mine broke off with the protector and now from the left flipper sometimes you can get air balls flinging off where the ramp entrance is missing):
Thanks for any help if anyone else has dealt with this and has a bandaid or knows of a ramp!

I bought my ramps from flippers.com

Thanks, they have STTNG ramps but not Stern Star Trek Prem/LE ramps unfortunately. Sorry I should’ve included the model of my machine in the request.

I want to say I saw Marco had the Alpha ramps months ago - but I just looked and they are OOS. Maybe they will get them back in.
What do you mean it broke off with the protector? I need to get some cliffy’s on mine so this makes me nervous.

Yea I saw them OOS on Marco that’s when I began to worry, but good to know they had some recently maybe that means they can still get more.
Not a great pic but here’s the missing chunk, the ramp broke even with the protector on. I got the game 2nd hand and it came with the protectors on all ramps, but I did notice a chip off the beta ramp when the game arrived. So it’s possible there were other cracks that started and the previous owner put the protectors on after the damage started. I’ve had this machine in one of my pin parlors the last year and it’s a top 5 fav in the lineup so gets a lot of plays, I’m guessing the damage had already started before the protectors were applied and my players just eventually finished it off. I’d definitely put the protectors on before a crack starts and then you should be good to go.

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