Unfortunately, the LED board wasn't the issue either. I pulled all the piggyback connectors and reconnected the originals. No difference.

I'm way out of my depth to try and figure this out any further on my own. Of course, it's not a big deal at all and I'm fully prepared to just live with it as a minor quirk of my machine. My only trepidation is that it could be indicative of something that could have an adverse affect down the line. I doubt it though, as it's been like this for years and otherwise, the game runs flawlessly.

That said, I'm always open to suggestions.

Sounds like you’ve got voltage from another source getting to that flasher. Are there other lights in series with this one? If, as you suspect, your backbox light is using the same circuit, look really really carefully at everything there. Sometimes unplugging/desoldering items upstream can can provide helpful clues in diagnosing something like this.

Back in the club for the 4th time. I had the pro, premium, Le and back to another pro.
I got it to do another ramp and wireform conversion kit for myself and I missed having the game.
The stock ramps are really long and the stainless plates are getting higher in price to get. I will make my set and see what the total costs would be as mod and go from there.

Opinion? I can make the left vuk feed into the wireform like the other models, it would just be constant to wireform only as its a pro. Good, bad, dumb or other?

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The Pre/LE always goes to the wireform. I think people would dig it. Having a sloppy feed from that shot is definitely the worst part of the pro

A. I like the idea. That would be a cool improvement to the sketchy feed.

B. I've never looked... is the coil in that VUK strong enough, and is the angle of the kicker correct to send the ball up to the wireform through your mod? It doesn't come out of there with a lot of force... but it is possible I have mine turned down to try and improve the feed out of it.

I will most likely be making a vuk angled plate to replace the one in it now. A higher angle that will launch into wireform. I would guess the pro and other models use same vuk coil? I am incorporating the enterprise in wireform style that the vuk and ramp feed into to the ball return. Way smaller scale then my Discovery, but a variation of that with the enterprise angled. See picture below..
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Added picture. I just need to scale it right, but this explains the wireform idea.

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This is exactly what's happening on my machine right now! Got my new coil + gate assembly on the way

Some sad StarTrek news today: Just saw that Nichelle Nichols (Uhura) passed away at the age of 89.

https://www.cnn.com/2022/07/31/entertainment/nichelle-nichols-star-trek-dies/index.html

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I came across a Star Trek certificate of authenticity from a Stern Limited Edition #389. I would like to get it to the proper owner if that's possible.

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Scoring strategies? is there a guide? thank you in advance

Not exactly a strategy guide, but a detailed write-up of the rule sheet which could help you form your own strategies. I found it helpful.

http://tiltforums.com/t/star-trek-wiki/456

Not sure if this is still current with later updated codes. I haven't looked at it in a long time

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-strategies-for-the-average-player/page/9#post-4390501

Happy Star Trek Day!

PWhiz any chance I could trouble you to post video (or even photo) of the led backbox lighting? Curious to head that route as well with the Aurich translite but I was wondering how diffused the backbox lighting would be with it...

.

I can do that, but might take me some time as I have a busy week.

As promised, here's some photos and a video(first half with translight on, second half with it off to see the led board). Sorry I had to do this during the day when my game room gets a fair bit of indirect sunlight and reflections.

As you'll see from the photos, there's a potentiometer and another bit of hardware to dial the brightness via a knob on the front. There are 4 separate wire bundles that piggyback to various J-connectors on the main boards.

You may also notice that one of the flashers near the bottom kind of gets blocked a bit by the ColorDMD panel, but honestly I never noticed a difference with the translight on. I also noticed, to my chagrin, that a few of the leds are dead on the bottom strip. Guess it's starting to show its age.

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This is amazingly helpful, thank you so much!

Yeah, I have a GZ LE with a custom backboard for the mirrored backglass, and I love it and was thinking about having one done for the ST pro.

...but when I was at NYCPC, they had a Star Trek... pro(?) with a premium translite with backbox LEDs, and you could distinctly see each LED as a bright spot every time it lit up... so there was no diffusion. Rather than the artwork appearing to light up, it was clearly a line of obvious colored LEDs, which distracted from the artwork rather than highlighted it.

... And I didn't know if this was a "translite vs backglass" thing or not.

Yours looks amazing. I might take the plunge. Thanks again for the video, it's really quite appreciated!

No problem, glad to help!

I don't know if the pics and video even properly convey how bright the leds on this board actually are, which is why I think it includes the brightness knob. It kind of hurts to look at them directly and I don't think I even have it at full brightness, although it may be close. But perhaps the Aurich translite is less translucent than the Stern ones so they don't shine through enough to see individual leds?

Anyway, I will say that with this led board and my pinstadium neo fusions, and when the extra ball effect gets triggered, well...let's just say I'm glad I'm not seizure prone, lol! But I love the lightshow that this pin is with the mods. Not to mention just how much I continue to love this game. Every time I play it, it gets me going. With the lights, movie music mod, and everything else, it's just very cinematic.

Sounds like a bad transistor, could you look for a discolored or slightly cracked/leaking transistor on the your flasher board?

find the flasher number, the reference the flasher transistor #...

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Star-Trek-Pro-Manual.pdf

I would have to agree with camcamaro1991 that it is likely a transistor. I had to replace one of mine on a Premium because the Vengeance ship wouldn't move. Luckily the flasher # matches the transistor #. So for you Flasher 27 (Center 3 Bank) is an issue so look at transistor #27. It's on the main board just above plug J6.

You can visually check it but if it looks ok I'd also check it with a multimeter. Mine looked fine but was bad. Just put your meter in diode test mode and with the machine off test between: pin 1 to pin 2, pin 1 to pin 3, and pin 2 to pin 3. Then reverse your leads and do it again recording each reading. Then test some of the other ones beside it. They should all show about the same reading between the same legs with the leads in the same orientation. If transistor 27 is different it is bad. Usually they fail as a dead short. You can send your board out to get it fixed or do it yourself if you feel confident enough in soldering. I snipped mine off, carefully removed the 3 leg stubs one at a time, and soldered in the new one. Took me all of 15 minutes and I was being careful.

That J6 is the plug for flashers 25-32. So you could also unplug that plug from the board and try a game without causing any issues (you'll just lose your flashers). If flasher 27 is STILL lit then, like someone else said, it is getting power from somewhere else in the wiring.

Thanks guys, that's definitely something to go on now, and I'll take a look at it when I can. I know soldering a transistor is probably no big deal, and I've soldered new led boards for inserts and such. I just haven't worked on a main board before and that would probably require pulling it from the backbox and such. If it is a bad transistor, then it will probably come down to me deciding how much it really bothers me and maybe if I can get a local friend who's rebuilt machines to come help out.

NP, I forgot to mention just make sure nothing is touching the flasher power/ground underneath the PF, or the wiring harness is pinched. Before you just replace the transistor, but they do go bad esp if someone grounded to it. Replacing the transistor is easy, when I desolder I use the copper mesh vs the sucker, the sucker sucks! copper mesh and its so much cleaner afterwards.

Hey guys - are mirror blades for the LE still available/sold anywhere?

Have you tried CoinTaker, you may have to email Melissa or Chris.

I might have an old used set I could let go, I need to look them, it will have some scratches like most do after use.

I did call CT no dice. Would be interested in used as well

Hey, I've been a bit embarrassed to ask this, but what the hell...

What the heck is that call out right before Klingon Multiball starts? It sounds akin to (but most certainly isn't) "KLINGOOOOOON HAGGIS"? What is actually being said?

I am pretty sure it is Klingon for "klingon Multiball"

Pingraffix?

For those TOS fans, watch ep1 of the current season of the masked singer ... If you don't know who "the knight" is... I'm not sure you're a big enough fan.

Will these work?

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I have a ST Premium and was considering mirrors as well. If delt31 is not interested I am.

That set is for the Limited Edition with the chase lights in the side of the cabinet. The Premium just uses regular mirror blades.

Where can I get the asteroids mod I have seen on the stern ST?

there are some good tutorials on you tube on how to make your own...however i think these are still available. https://modfatherpinball.com/products/star-trek-asteroids

That is great. Thank you. I think I can make them!

i made them... was a fun project for sure. Rainy day in garage with tunes, beer and a cigar. Yeah buddy.

This might be more of a general question than a ST specific one, but since it happened on my ST...

so, now I open the coin door, the power to the playfield stays on, even though the DMD says "50V/20V disabled". When I pull out the interlock switch, the DMD acknowledges that the switch has been pulled out, but there's no change to the fact that the playfield has power. Same, if I push the interlock switch all the way back in.

If the pin detects that the switch has been pulled, is the switch itself still functioning to a degree? Trying to look in the manual for the wiring, all I'm finding is pg 65 in the pro manual, which isn't very helpful...

That only disables COIL voltages... ie 20V and 50V.
The PF inserts and what not will still have power.
Are you saying you still have voltage on the coils?

Nope! I'm saying that I'm an idiot who's spent a lot of time working on Godzilla lately, and forgot that the playfield lights don't go off on Star Trek when the coin door opens, unlike Godzilla. Thanks, @Zitt, sorry all! All is well...

Scored this gorgeous ST pro this weekend. Game plays great and came with shaker motor, mirror blades, and this topper included. Topper isn’t plugged in though, any idea where it connects to?

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Not stock; no idea.
You need to find out who created that abomination (wrong enterprise) and email the company who made it.
I seem to remember that topper being discussed in the 207 pages... but I just don't remember where it came from.

Tilt topper made that topper. Go to their web site and I believe they have instructions on how to connect it to a light source. I have one just like it and it shines up great, giving the illusion of a 3D effect. Congrats on the new pin. I love my LE!

You may not like the topper but the enterprise is absolutely the correct one. The reboot version. Look closely. Curved nacelles etc.
EDIT: Upon closer inspection on the company's website, you are correct Zitt it's a weird mix of both the OG and the reboot 1701. Eeek.

The company did also make a version with the 1701-D but that was discontinued years ago.

Just joined the club with a Premium and its a hit. I have been told by some of the non pin head friends that the reason they come back to it is its super easy to understand what they need to do via the mode they select and what to do to get a mode started. I love it for its depth in code, I love that each mission has 3 levels as well as the bonuses you get for getting 3 in a row. When to start MB ext..... Oh and man when you get 3 or 4 consistent shots on the warp ramp its a fantastic feeling. Right now I just ordered upgraded speakers and a motor shaker. Next is topper.

I... am not certain you're correct. The Bussard collectors on the nacelles of the reboot version are blue, the original version are red. And the font on the ship name/registry lettering are the font of the original, not the reboot. And I can't tell from the photo, but if the ship has a gold deflector dish (original) rather than a blue backlit one (reboot)...

Still, it looks nice!

... And to be clear, the reboot version is on the translite, but I'm 95% certain that's the original on the topper.

Wow I went to the Tilttopper website to look at close-ups. Agreeing with Zitt now. It's an abomination. It's actually a bit of a mix between the reboot and the OG. Nacelles are lit on the topper. OG was not (other than the front). However OG had fan blades on the front of the nacelles rotating in fron of the lights. Reboot does not and topper does not. But topper has the color front nacelle color of the OG with the style of the reboot. What a mess. lol.

I have the 1701-D on my STTNG and it looks awesome. But obviously it has the appropriate ship.

I'm pretty sure Tilttopper stole that image from some fan art site like the RPF and then "photoshopped" it into a topper.
I'm betting some fan re-imagined the TOS enterprise or something.

There's nothing "wrong" with that - other than copyright theft or whatever... but IMHO; if it isn't a true Abrams Enterprise... it really doesn't belong on a topper being sold for the Stern Star Trek machines.

Agreed. Although still not as offensive as selling STTNG alternate cabinet artwork with the reboot Abrams Enterprise lol. Yes they exist.