STAR TREK STERN BLACKOUT MO PREM/LE

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-le-laser-blackout-mod

The mod is sold out

but i found some empty pcb and parts and i am able to complete 5 kits

if you want to order send me a PM

The Price is 69$ / 59,- euro + 35$ / 30,- euro shipping to US or 19,- euro shipping inside europe
you can order up to 3 kits for the same shipping costs

tom

PM sent. Long shot, but does anyone in SLC, Utah area want to order together and save a few bucks on shipping?

A center punch, drill bit, and awl (pin punch) will pop the rivets off no problem. Drill from the manufactured head side partway through, then stick the awl in and pop it free. The shop head will fall out easily.

You will need a rivet squeezer to put new rivets back in. Your best bet is to go to an aircraft maintenance shop and see if they'll rivet it for a few bucks. Or see if there are any aircraft homebuilders near by.

My Star Trek premium vault has a few g.i. bulbs out. I'm hoping to match the originals as best as possible. Any suggestions on what I should buy?

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Easy 'fix' is to just put some mylar over it to hold it down. That's what I did. Proper fix would involve removing the ramp and trying to bend it or replace it.

The lamp just attaches to the bottom of the ship. I'm sure there's some info in the manual, but I can get a picture later.

555 retro led from cointaker i think are a match. White.
https://cointaker.com/products/555-retro

Awesome, thanks.

If you can please.
The bulb holder is destroyed and bits missing, so would like to know what it should look like.
Also the type of bulb in it

Pretty sure that bulb is a standard 2SMD cold white bulb from Comet Pinball.

Hi Guys, I am looking for color DMD files for my Star Trek PRO Pin2DMD i saw this amazing colorization :

Can anybody Help me out with .pal and .sfq files? (i think i need this, correct me when I'm wrong pls)

That’s ColorDMD you have to use their hardware to get that colourization.

Hi all!
Just got a ST LE and my center shot under the Vengeance is not registering. The optos are working as the points count but when I make the shot in a mode it does not count it as a hit.
Any ideas on what would cause that?
Also will not register ball lock.

So it's a tower flasher, but can't see where the holder is attached to the ship at all.

Which is why I said, check the manual.
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Star-Trek-LE-Manual.pdf

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Hi all just joined the club and am very excited. My first pin ever. Got a premium with a few mods.

My questions will be dumb and bad because I am so new. I added the movie score 1.62 code, and am trying to balance out the sound. All I see is music attenuation and voice attenuation. Are sound effects listed in one of these groups? Sound effects feel pretty loud compared to music and voice at the moment.

Typically the drop target is always up except when the lock is lit and during Vengeance modes. You said the optos are good but it the drop target behaving?

Apologies.
Thank you

Drop target is always down. Based on what you’re saying that should not be the case. I’ll take a look at it today and report back.

Thanks!

Flyfalcons
That was it and all fixed now
THANK YOU

Adjust the Music Attenuation to -5 and play, then adjust to -10 if you still want the music higher in the mix. You’ll need to turn your overall/main volume down a couple notches on the coin door from what you’ve had it on but you’ll be able to find a balance that works for you. …Yes -5 not +5, I know it sounds strange but that’s how it works(;

Thanks, I completely spaced out the giant VOLUME labels on the red buttons and was searching for a master volume in the actual setup menus.

I turned down main volume, put voices at -8 and music at -12 and I feel like that sounds about right for me.

Having fun other than the right outlane seems brutally wide open and i lose 90% of my balls there. When the slings get going very often itll throw it straight in there.

Only three things ive noticed so far that may not be normal:

Vengeance magnet is a little convex and sticks out of the playfield a touch so sometimes when it releases a ball the magnet deflects it around and it comes down too slowly and the knockdown pops back up before its clear.

Kickback in the left outlane sometimes kicks it up around the warp flipper, but sometimes kicks it straight into the right outlane. Hoping cleaning and potentially realigning it a touch helps

Getting a decent amount of airballs (especially when trying to launch into the warp ramp area and miss the shot. Am hoping this is just dirty field and balls giving the pinballs too much grip and rotation. Going to swap the balls, clean it with novus 2 and put down a layer of carnauba and see how differently it plays.

So much good info here!

Also, there is a LOT of clear plastic pieces along the top of the ramps and a couple other places that dont seem to serve any purpose whatsoever, and theres a number of screws that go nowhere and connect nothing. Not sure if theyre aftermarket or just different things that LE/pro/premium have or dont have... shed any light?

ST uses the old style magnet which tend to mushroom over time. It's not very difficult to adjust or replace though. You can try lowering or rotating it before replacing.

Dont mean to junk up this thread but no one else is posting so update time!...

I opened up the game, tightened a few screws I could find, novus 2 + waxed the playfield, swapped the balls... aaaaand now it is UNPLAYABLY fast even at only 6.5 degrees. It fixed all my ball behavior problems and added the problem of unstable warp ramp feed.

I added velcro to the back of the warp ramp like I saw suggested here and it really seems to help. Only other surgery I've had to do is adjust a few of the red matter post target leaf switches from being stuck open or stuck closed.

I would like to know more about the velcro placement on the warp ramp. what post # was it?

Check this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-pro-warp-ramp-adjusting-fail#post-3542605

Theres a few people who have said they did it with nice results. I basically did the same setup as in the pictures, one strip on the bottom and one on the outside of the turn. So far it slows down the feed so that its not bouncing around or coming out crooked and you can actually chain the warp ramp a bit.

Do any of you guys know the powdercoat color for STLE? I’m trying to match custom hinges and am attempting to get close with Prismatic brand.

I have a couple of badly cracked ramps.
Are the ramps and decals available from anywhere?

There are 6 different machines from different manufacturers covered by this thread. You certainly have to be a bit more specific.

Oh yes, sorry
Stern ST Pro

Marco has 2/3 in stock.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/GX3024?S_CAT1=PFLD&VIEW_SIZE=60&view=card&sortOrder=SortProductField:totalTimesViewed

Edit: Those appear to be partial ramps for the premium/Le even though they're listed under parts for the Pro.

I color matched based on powder by the pound a while back... but I don't know if I documented the color.
Correct; I did not document the color:
https://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=689

If no one else steps up; send me a pm asking me and I'll see if I can find the "correct" bottle in the garage stash.
I can't guarantee it's an Exact match - but it's very close.

---
Thinking about retiring the STNG wingLEDs due to part shortage issues:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stng-wingled-kit/page/2#post-6563145
Please go to that thread and comment if you think you might be interested in a future build.

Just joined the club with a ST PRO. Great condition from a fantastic seller!

Question...

Is it possible to add the USS Enterprise from Marco onto a Pro?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-9830-00

Thanks! Looking forward to contributing here!

Just grab a Hallmark ornament, easy to wire up and mount and higher quality than the Stern version (also a lot cheaper, I believe I paid $7 on ebay)

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Do any of you guys know where I can track down a decal that was scraped on my STLE? Backbox left side, not a big deal but I'd like to get it fixed.

Contact your local distributor, they can order one for you. Stern won't deal directly with us peasants. (I received mine that way after getting no where with Stern)

I also used the Hallmark ornament, it's the perfect size and it's more detailed than the Stern LE ship.
Here are two very good threads about it here on pinside...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-pro-mod-anyone-doing-an-enterprise-model

and

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-uss-kelvin-diy-mod

Using the info above I did this mod myself, here is mine, I painted the post "hammer-black". In these pics it makes it look like the post is chipped but it's not, in real life it glitters and sparkles like stars as the light hits it.

One correction to my friend above.... I could not personally find this ship for less than $25 on eBay. Maybe he found one for $7 but I don't think that's a typical price.

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Is this the one? Seems right. 2009 version. I've been hard pressed to find one under $50!
ebay.com link: itm

Im in the process of adding the hotwheels klingon ship as well as the hallmark kelvin to the playfield... Ive never done any of this, zitt is sending them to me mostly plug and play with the circuit boards already installed, but I know nothing about how to wire them... any idiotproof guides? I can solder and understand circuits but I havent messed with pinballs ever.

You won't need to. Both will come with "bulbs" to plug directly into into an existing bulb socket

That's the one and make sure you review those links and understand you will have to work with some small wires and solder. 99% of the risk is on the ornament though. I actually melted the saucer section on my 1st attempt. I use a butane soldering iron and I failed to account for the heat coming out of the side....the little flames should have been my first clue but I digress! I did it correctly on my second attempt. Even at $41 bux a piece it's STILL less than 1/2 price of the one you can get at Marco. There is some good info on the mod here in this thread also someplace back about a zillion pages...search for that..hallmark is a good keyword to search for I think. The other small challenge in this is that you have to run power supply wires up to the bottom side of your playfield. You have a free 5v plug sitting there right now coming out of your power supply on the bottom of your cabinet. I bought a splitter with 2 plugs so I would still have another a 5v plug down there if needed and I used the 2nd plug to run a wire to the back of the machine and then from the back of the playfield, with enough slack to open and close the playfield and carefully following other wires and securing with zip ties until I had the extension plug right under the area I needed it to be. It's not real hard but it's not child's play. On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10 for pinball mods I would put it at a 3 or a 5 if you've never soldered before in your life.

Yup, I bought mine years ago but you will be able to find it cheaper if you hold out and keep searching. It's a bad time of year to buy holiday ornaments right now, aa prices will be higher. Also, don't only search by year, some sellers won't have the year in the listing. I think the one I got was only listed as "Star Trek Christmas Ornament". I got the Kelvin for around the same price, and paid $15 for the Klingon Bird of Prey (which I screwed up trying to install LEDs, I think I tossed it).

After about two months, finally finished Zdoor 's laser-cut lighted side armor mod. Pictures don't do it justice. Thanks, zdoor!

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Good morning/afternoon

All of sudden my Star Trek Premium decided that coils were not useful after all for playing pinball. Needless to say, I kind of disagree

Anyway, checked the fuse : all are correct

F5 especially is good, but the status led just above does not turn on (L17)
Measuring 50V, I get a 21V, which kind of explains why the coils don't work, but don't explain why it's at this level

Manual I have is useless, as it does not include the power board schematics, so can't figure out where to probe.

I'm assuming 50V DC is generated through a rectifier from the 48V AC input, but which is the correct rectifier ?

21V DC seems like half of the rectifier is dead, resulting into an average DC current of 21V (since it's missing half the phase)

Thoughts ?

Regards

(edit) I found a power board schematics on Shrek manual. Based on this, this should be BR1

Oddly enough L17 is an indicator of 48v AC, through two diodes. Only way it can be off if 48VAC is present is iff the two diodes are dead... Which would seem rather odd (two diodes, AND BR01 seems like a stretch to me, but after all maybe there's been a power surge)

Do you mean that you pulled the fuses out and checked them for continuity with a meter?
Fuses can appear fine and be blown.

Yes, tested in continuity mode

Found the culprit : the plug on the safety switch next to the coin door was actually unplugged

This resulted into only one phase at the input if the rectifier, thus 13V AC RMS, resulting into 21V DC

Interestingly, L17 was not lit (indicating a problem on ac voltage), but the 50V rails led indicator were lit, as they turn on below 21V

i have 1 Star Trek Blackout MOD for stern PREM/LE in stock

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-le-laser-blackout-mod/page/12#post-6586777

Does anyone know the blue color stern used on the LE powder coat? I have some laser cut hinges I want to get powdered to match.

Grabbed some mods from Zitt at pinball-mods and got them into my ST Premium over the weekend. The Bird of Prey, the Kelvin, and the insignia pop caps

Quick vid of what they look like. Thanks to him on answering a lot of my questions.