Just picked up a prem, I've gotten into blackout mode a few times, but not sure how I'm getting there. Very cool, can someone explain how? Thx,

You mean Klingon multiball? If so, you lock 3 balls to begin. The laser should then kick on spreading “red stars” around the play field.

So its only on klingon? Haven't played enough to notice and I'm only one playing it. Thx, I'll try again tonight.

Yes as far as I know. Have owned the game a long time and that's the only "blackout" I've experienced. Love this game. Lots of ways to play and lots of ways to score. Have fun exploring.

Ok next question. How do you qualify for klingon multiball? Hard to see, wife doesn't play often and none of my friends are into pinball so its pretty much just me playin.and I'm avg player haha.. thx for any input on a great game!

Maybe its every other multiball?

The 3 targets below the entrance to the Warp Ramp are what qualify Klingon MB. You should get the laser show at the start everytime, but if you double flip it will cancel the laser. Did you perhaps by a used game that has some mods? I'm pretty sure at one point someone was selling a blackout mod made the laser show more pronounced.

There were two black out mods; one is supposed to be retired as of the last run.
Mine is still in stock.

Cancel the laser? Could you clarify this?

On almost all newer games, you can double flip to cancel animations. In ST, if you do this at the at the start of Klingon MB, it will also usually cancel the laser show.

This (laser) I never knew after owing the game since nib, so thanks for that.
In any case I don’t know why anyone would want to cancel the laser as it adds a nice enhancement to Klingon mb. I’m going to try it though!

This double flip to cancel the laser doesn't cancel it, BTW.

ectobar is a guru on ST!

Thought it did. I've been stuck in the world away from home for a bit so haven't been able to double check. Certainly could be wrong.

It's a great game. I've had my Pre since the beginning. I'm not really a 'bolted to the floor' guy, but this is probably my one.

ALT MOVIE MIX WITH BEASTIE BOYS:

Hi all, joined the club 2 weeks ago with a Star Trek Premium, I love the flow, speed, and sound effects that complete the feel to shooting this game!
I'm not a trekkie but I enjoyed some of the reboot and am a huge Beastie Boys fan, so I had to holler at my buddy cleland with my ideas and he worked his amazing loop magic to complete this remix!
While some don't believe the Bboyz belong in Star Trek, this mix is viable based on the Stern Star Trek universe, if you don't like that then don't get mad at Cleland he was just working with my requests(: but if you enjoy it then feel free to ping cleland with your appreciation.
There were a couple of Stern stock tracks that I liked the energy of that were put back in to balance out the Theme integration imo, and then the two Beastie Boys songs that were in the movies.

This mix is based off of the Movie Soundtrack mix made by Pinsider nosro who did an awesome job incorporating the JJ Abrams movie scores!

Changes to this mix are the following:

'Game Start' track Volume bumped up to help hear the subtle Theme music intro
'Mission Select' audio - put Stock Mission Select back in
'Victory Lap' audio - is basically the same track but loop adjusted to drop in differently
'Vengeance Battles' - put Stock back in
'Klingon Multiball' - put Beastie Boys Sabotage in
'Game Over' music - put Beastie Boys Body Movin in
*Set Music Attenuation between -15 & -20 depending on preferences

PM me or cleland if you want a free copy of it and there's both Pro and Prem/Le versions.

Have Fun

I have a stainless steel speaker panel in stock at the moment

The last one

Finishing off my long weekend with a brew and some pins. Just GC'd my ST!

2.7B!
140m ~ KM
214m ~ EA
600m!(double scoring) ~ 5Y
450m ~ VIII
EBs from Warps and VII
53 medals.

Probably not getting much better than that today.

Nice! How many times have you gotten to 5Y?

7ish. Not exactly sure, but enough at this point that if I'm close to double scoring I'll press the issue. Have been burnt, but have also cashed in a double scoring 5Y before as well.

That's impressive! Best for me is 9 missions completed, only halfway to 5Y.

I don’t mind the constant ads for your product as much as I mind that you sell “the last one” about every 2 months. I did a search and the first “last one” that you sold was 4 yrs ago. At least do us the favor of saying that it’s the last one until you do the next run. /rant.off

Or he could just have a store set up on here. He has never once made a contribution to this thread other than to try and sell his crap. Super annoying.

I'm back!

20210707_210929 (resized).jpg

You shouldn't have left....

I pledge to never leave the club again...

on the left side ramp above the left flipper the ball sometimes takes two or three tries to kick back up into play.on my le st also the ball gets stopped to the right of the pop and behind the ramp,ball search will kick it out.

Assuming you're talking about the up kicker. I would say give the plastics and wireforms a look and make sure they aren't blocking the path. If they are, you can can loosen them up and slightly readjust. My vuk works 99% of the time.

This is common. Easiest solution is to get a little rubber nubbin, or circle piece of felt and put it there so the ball doesn't hang. Myself, I usually just have a sip of my beverage and wait for the search.

thank you I will try these including the beverage break

Check for level / right pitch. If you haven't Already

Also making the lower pop switch skirt more sensitive might help

added a nice sub a couple days ago wow great game experience got even better.I usually on add a sub for music pins but this was a nice addition

Anyone ever upgrade the speakers in their game?

my speakers are stock and not impressive looking but for this game sound very good especially with a sub .But even stock it seems plenty for this machine.I usually add pinwoofers setup to all my machines not sure you need it here but if you want more try pinwoofer or add the sub.Hit Play

So how does everyone hook up their external sub to their Stern? In the past I just used speaker wire to alligator clips on the bottom speaker. Then I snuck the wire out the back.

That works fine, but pinnovators is the best way. Only about 35 bucks and a 5 minute install

This one for Star Trek I assume...

https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/products/pinsub-sam-stern-kit

Yes. They are great to work with if you have any questions. If you buy a mixer from them, you can run 4 pins on same sub at same time

Yup.
I have the Pinnovators hook up to an external sub (that I share with their splitter with a few other machines) but I also upgraded the backbox speakers and in cabinet sub with a Flipper Fidelity set which (with the original score alternate music) sounds so great on this machine...

I have Pinwoofer systems in my JP and GnR and that system is also amazing. I had already upgraded my ST before I found out Pinwoofer existed...

Bottom line: lots of options but all audio upgrades are worth it to elevate the experience!

So with Pinwoofer you don't need an external sub? Is this the better way to go?

Anyone have some spare plastics for a Stern Pro?

It's down to personal preference.
In my GnR, I bought the line trimmer to go with the Pinwoofer amp to hook up an external sub.

For Star Trek, the previous owner wired for an external sub so I had that before I installed the upgraded Flipper Fidelity speakers.

Bottom line: I find Pinwoofer an excellent upgrade for overall balanced sound. If you just want more thumping bass, a Pinnovators sub connection is excellent.
If you want both, splurge on a Pinwoofer system, the line trimmer and an external sub. But that's your most expensive option.

Just wanted to close this topic up. Thanks again for all of the insights. Turns out the problem was in fact transistor Q51, which had shorted. Ordered a replacement transistor, a friend taught me how to desolder, swapped in the transistor, tested the coil circuit to make sure it wouldn't melt anything again, and now everything's right as rain.

Thanks again!

223604495_10107465806894935_449842300724041656_n (resized).jpg

Bringing to Pinfest tomorrow a brand new, complete alternate artwork set for Stern Star Trek, made by Pinsider Aurich.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinfest-2020-buy-sell-trade-want-no-hotel-talk/page/35#post-6413090

Currently debugging an issue on a Star Trek Pro for a friend. The upper right flipper is not working.

Checked voltage level, oddly enough zero volt on both. At the IO power board, it's also zero on J9-P5 (note that there is an error in the manual on this, the schematics points to J9, the coil summary points to J8).

So time to check and change Q12.
What puzzles me however is the other signal : cabling is Grey, coil summary points to J10 Grey... Which does not exist. The wiring is indeed Grey on the coil, but I can't figure out where it's connected on the power board.

Any pointer?

Also what is the recommended reference for a replacement transistor?

Thanks and regards

I replaced Q2 with a P40NF10L MOSFET Solenoid Driver. Looks to be the same one.

Thanks

Actually based on the symptom (no 50V DC), I would rather suspect a faulty diode than a shorted transistor (as otherwise the fuse would blow).

Just need to figure out the footprint, hard to judge I would tend to think 0803, am I right?

Actually neither. Transistors allow ground to pass to the coil, not voltage. All coils should have 50v between either lug and ground(use the ground strap). Only time it would show 0v is a blown fuse or the interlock switch not being pulled.

,

Fuse is correct, since other coils dependent on the same fuse operate properly (and I checked them).

Interlock switch is correct as well, I checked when doing my measurements that 50v DC was present on the other coils from the same group.

When looking at the schematics, you can see that the 50v rail is connected to the output pin of the connector through a diode (on Sam the diodes are directly on the Power board itself) . If this diode is open regardless of current direction, then 50v cannot reach that particular pin. And there's one diode per coil, so that would explain why other coils are operating. At least that's my analysis, I don't see any other rationale explanation

Still need to figure out where this damn Grey wire is connected though

I stand corrected. The grey wire is of course connected to the fuse which is below the playfield, and I did not check that one, so chances are that the fuse is blown because the transistor is actually shorting to ground. I'll check tomorrow, but this is far more likely than a faulty diode.

I'm puzzled...

- checked the fuse, it was indeed blown, 70v was on the other side of the fuse
- checked the transistor, it was shorting vcc to ground, explains why the fuse was blown

- replaced the transistor, and when doing so I noticed that the trace connecting 50vdc to the diode (which on Stern Sam is in the power board) was blown as well. Surprising, I soldered a wire, checked the diode, all good

- powering it up, checked voltage on both side of the faulty coils, getting appropriate voltage

- test mode, tested another coil just to be sure, then tested the upper flipper, nothing. Noticed that no other coil was working after that, master fuse on power board was blown

- replaced fuse, power on, this time fuse blows directly

- removed power board, checked continuity, and... Turns out that new transistor fried, along with the diode, whish was no shorted as well, so instant blown fuse

What could cause a brand new transistor to fry like this, and blow the diode at the same time?

The fact that the trace was blown originally would tend to indicate that something was odd with the diode in the first place, but why it worked for a few minutes before I activated the coil is very odd

Suggestions welcome

Regards

Just joined the club with a premium and it came with a external Polk audio sub and I noticed the volume on speakers in the backbox are very low even after I turn of the powered sub. I also have more sound coming out of the sub in the cabinet than the speakers in the backbox. Has anyone else experience this? if so how do I correct this?