Hit up a distributor. They might still be able to get from Stern. I bought one a while back. Cost was like $30.

Thanks.

Is this one of your black out mods? Found it in my parts box labelled ST.

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Random Q - for the premium / LE is it always supposed to go to the wire form or sometimes kickback? Mine always goes up. Curious if the deflector is adjusted right.

Flyer says should do both.

They defeatured that functionality as it wasn't working right. Not sure why they didn't update the flyer

No lose there, I hate the way it kicks back on the pro and was one of the reasons I wanted the LE.

Do later run premiums have the non adjusting VUK then?

No - same device as earlier. My 2019 build vault had it. From the factory the diverter was off centered/ mostly off at rest. I thought it was a mistake and re-centered it over the VUK but I guess it was intentional.

Question for anyone who has ghosting inserts. How long have you had the machine, and have they gotten worse overtime? I have a few on my original run Pro, and would like to know if overtime I need to worry about them getting worse.

Anyone familiar with the Bally Star Trek and able to help me troubleshoot a resetting issue?

Turn the game on the the number display next to credits *(current ball, or used in settings) begins counting up to 11 and then the game resets. It stays powered on, but the score display go out for the most part and then return to counting up to 11 and the whole process starts again. The game was a flipping project prior to this occurring.

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Looks like it.

Stern star trek original runs didn't have ghosted insert's IIRC. It wasn't until later Spike models (or maybe Vault run) that the clear *may have* became a problem. Ofcourse; there may have been a handful of people with issue ... but Stern probably took care of them directly.

I didn't see any problems on my LE. I haven't looked at my game for issues in years.

That doesn't sound correct for a game not in test mode.
Both my STMU and Bally games boot straight into attract mode without any "count".
I think some of the displays print the gamecode version prior to high scores. Don't recall which displays print what.
It "sounds" like your game is going straight into test mode for some reason.

Mine is a Sep 2015 build. I'm not sure if that would be considered an original run, or Vault

Not all of them, apparently. My Vault Pro didn't come with the badge, but it has a "V" on the serial number label. I got mine when the Vaults just starting shipping....maybe the Final Voyage badge was for the last batch when the Vault run was ending?

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I always thought the Final Voyage name was given to the final run of Star Treks.

Good morning Pin Treker's- I have a Preimum LE and the game is sending balls for no reason on it's own and on a drain the game will reset to the next ball while the other on the field is in a dead game mode.

Anyone have these issues with the game, thoughts of resetting software?

Opto or switch problem in the trough.

YES

i have 2 ST stainless steel panels in stock, again

send me a pm

they are ready to ship

tom

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I moved and lost track of the two bolts that holds the head in place. Does anyone know offhand what size they are?

https://www.amazon.com/Stern-Pinball-Spike-System-Backbox/dp/B07Z8HHG3W

Dimensions: 3/8-16 x 2-1/4 Inch - 5/8 Inch Acorn Head

And by the way, did you ever finish the last first level mode at the left saucer (Pro), and as it released, just slap it into Kobayashi Maru at the Vengeance? It was an instant reaction before I had time to even get nervous it was lit. For about 3 seconds I posed with my arms up as my medals counted.

In other words, I still love this damn game.

check your switch inside coin door, bend out metal bracket so door keeps it closed better.

ebay.com link: itm

Sorry, should have specified for a 2014 Stern

Went to the hardware store, took a guess and nailed it. Found them in the furniture fastener drawer. Wide head hex drive 1/4 x 20 x 1.5”

I screw that up on AC/DC and Metallica all the time. On Star Trek, I've never been any good at hitting the warp ramp. If I was right at Warp 9 I might try, but other than that, I just go into Kobayashi. Which makes it sound like I do it all the time, but we all know I don't

Here comes the rush of Star Trek LEs for 9k. Let’s see if one sells. It’s a great pin and I have one but I’m not selling!

I wouldn't sell mine for 9k. Just sayin.

Yeah, probably to pry it out of my hands I’d do 10k plus because I don’t want to sell. If I was selling, I’d be happy in the 9k range though.

I would sell my modded up one for $9.3k.

I would sell my Premium for 19999.99

List it and see what happens

Well clearly my Stern Star Trek premium did not enjoy being moved. I have a physical knocker installed. It has decided to lock on. I don’t see anything obvious that’s causing it. Anybody have thoughts or suggestions?

You're in luck, you have a decent wire harness. Mine came with just crimping connectors, which could not crimp because there were not appropriate for the laser cables so I'll have to rebuild the wire harness myself to make it work

Hi, all! Question on the Stern Star Trek (Pro). So, when I got my pin, the left orbit gate was dead... I replaced the whole assembly (gate + coil) last September, and it worked fine for me until now, so I'm guessing it's the coil on the assembly.

1) Are you folks finding that this gate coil dies this often, or is this unusual?

I'd like to replace the coil, and Marco has it at $30/pop with the connector (lower half of screenshot), but they also have the coil itself without a diode (upper half of screenshot) for $10 less...

coil (resized).png

2) Is the difference as simple as an 1N4004 diode to be placed inline somewhere? I don't suppose it as simple as transferring the connector leads to this coil?

3) Or would you recommend biting the bullet and grabbing the coil w/ connector and saving on a headache?

Coils really don't just go bad. You should figure out what is causing the problem.

Hmm... I hate to ask, but any ideas what could cause something like this?

Is your game running "hot"?
Is the jumper correct for your house voltage?
Seems like either the coils is sticking on... or the "high" voltage rails for the coils is way outside of normal.

Yeah sorry, that was kinda vague.
Did you test the coil you previously removed to see if it was actually damaged?
Does it look burnt or crispy?
What does it read for resistance?

Stainless speaker panel received in perfect condition and installed today. Thank you kapsreiter!

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Thx for the advice, RCA1 and Zitt ! I'm going to take a look at all of those options in the next few days... I actually still have the dead gate assembly that it initially came with, so I can use that for a datapoint along with the new dead one... Will update as I can, thanks!

(I don't think the coil was stuck on except during Vengeance multiball... When I'd launch the ball without holding the left flipper, the gate would stay closed and bring the ball to the pops, and would open on launch if I did hold the left flipper (which I do pretty infrequently)... But will definitely pay closer attention when I install the replacement, cheers and thanks!)

I stand very much corrected. Oh yeah. That's definitely melted.

20210618_191731 (resized).jpg

The thing I changed before this happened was swapping out the IDC connector to the drop target, which had stopped functioning correctly...

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After reseating the wires to a fresh connector, the drop target is back to working properly, but the melted left orbit gate coil may be an unintended effect?

Are the two systems directly related? Not sure if the two events are connected... though the timing is suspect.

Also worth noting that I cycled through all of the coils/flashers in the coil menu, that's the only one that seemed to be stuck "on." The others all responded normally...

Looks like there’s some potential for shorting with those bare wire ends in your photo….

Word. Tidying those up is highly recommended!

Thanks kindly, good advice... yep, that was the before picture, cheers... Here's what I did afterwards (sorry, not the greatest shot of the actual IDC connector.)
20210613_213851 (resized).jpg

So, I measured the left orbit gate. It's at a constant ~73V upon powering up, and stays there. The (functioning) right orbit gate is at ~0, and does a short burst to ~70V on coil test. Appears to be stuck on, not sure what's causing it... Current idea is dead transistor, but open to other ideas?

Can't tell from your description.
The ground side of the coil is pulsed to ground when the coil is told to energize. +70 should always be there.
If the defective coil reads 70V across it all the time; and the ground lug is effectively always at 0 volts; then yeah … you have a wiring fault or a shorted transistor.