Welcome to Pinside! You've got a great classic game, and pretty desirable. Here's where I'd start:

#1 - figure out how far the MPU gets into booting. Follow the instructions on this page, Section 5.5.4.1:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#MPU_boot_issues

#2 - Depending on what you find above, there are a number of ways it can go. My general recommendation would be to confirm power is good to all PCBs. Disconnect all cables except for the power supply rectifier board and confirm the test points on the rectifier PCB match what's expected when the machine is turned on:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Attract_Mode_Test_Points

#3 - If the rectifier test points are all good, plug in the Solenoid Driver Board (SDB) and check those test points. Then do the MPU. Looks like the MPU has the original battery (convert that to NVRAM or remote battery pack as soon as you can) but at least from the picture you provided it doesn't look like there's any acid damage there.

My guess is that you're going to find some test points on either the rectifier board or SDB that are incorrect. If/when that happens, next step will be re-pinning the connectors for that board...they get corroded, bent, or loose after 40 years. If that doesn't bring it back, then it's time to figure out what board to actually repair (plenty of folks here on Pinside will do board level repair if you don't do that kind of stuff yourself).

BTW - as you get deeper into troubleshooting your Bally Star Trek pin, you'll likely get more technical help/response from the SS Bally guys who hang out here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club

Cheers,
Kris

I'm troubleshooting opto craziness again. Wires twisted, repeating back box connectors, insuring wires are routed away from magnet as far as possible. Still keeps happening after .few.games. anything else I could do?

Also heard something fall during game and I found this broken piece. I can't see.where.it may have been or what it's for. Suggestions?

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Flipper end of stroke arm?

just right. I was confused that the flippers still worked well after the piece broke off. Evidently there is no leaf switch on the upper flipper for the EOS arm to engage. I guess I replace it anyway as the screw will probably start to work itself out of the remaining piece.
thanks.

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Hi! I am making video about pinballs, need few pics from ST limited edition. Somebody can make for me few pics on good camera? Who able to help please dm me.

Added a highly modded and pristine ST Prem to the collection just under a week ago

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Is the Vengeance supposed to vibrate etc. like it got hit right away if you turn on the power and start a new game (in free play mode)? I feel like it didn't used to do this, and it doesn't always happen on new game, but seems pretty consistent after power on -> new game.

I suppose it might be this drop-target issue?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-pro-center-drop-target-problem

(Game is Stern Star Trek Premium)

I don't think My LE simulates a hit on game start; unless the drop was down when the game was turned off.

Thanks. It's stopped happening now so I guess it's an intermittent problem.

Most likely, the drop target issue.

The drop target shelf plastic can crack and cause this. I super glued mine and put a little clear scotch tape on it. Works perfect now.

Thanks guys. I went with Aurich's fix as quoted below and (despite my dropping the screw twice and nearly losing it...) so far so good!

"I had this problem, or a similar one, and it wasn't an opto or switch or anything, was purely mechanical. The screw on the drop target that's on the same side as the spring was pushing it so it wouldn't latch properly. Weird behavior like phantom hits, popping up and down rapidly etc. Sound familiar?

My solution was to take out the screw on the spring side, and feed it back in from the other side, so the head wasn't interfering anymore. It won't "bite" anymore, threads won't catch on the plastic, but the other screw holds it in place, so it work fine.

Ever since I made this fix (Rarehero gets the tip for this being the problem, I think he found a smaller screw head though) I haven't had a single repeat of the issue."

If you need someone too I can take some pics with my good camera. Message me if you want some

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Thanks! Already got pics from other pinsider.

still available

I just received my shipment from Marco of a couple mini-coils. I intend to try and install one of them this weekend on my upper electric gate assy so I can finally experience the skill shots properly.
Has anyone done that replacement, and if so any advice before I dive in?

See my post 8737 in this thread and a subsequent 8782.

It's a pretty easy fix, just getting to it is complicated, once you get the gate out the mini coils are easy enough to replace. The biggest disappointment is that I was getting great high scores prior to the fix...

Thanks, I'll check those posts. curious though, why would enabling electric gate reduce your scores? Is it because the ball doesnt stay in the lanes/pops as much?

Has anyone attached a USS Enterprise to the plastic ramps on their pro? Considering getting a hot wheels and attaching it to the right ramp at the return lane.

Would be easier in wireforms but I digress.... Thoughts on attaching it to the plastic ramps on a pro?

I've been having a couple of issues on my ST Prem.

First, the spinner has started to rest in a non-vertical position. Sometimes it sits at an odd angle that will actually act as a 'block' to the left orbit. Other times it will come to rest at such an angle that the ball will pass right under it. It eventually gets shaken back to normal from both of these positions, but it's getting annoying. Does it just need lubrication? What is the recommended fix / product?

Second, the magnet under the Vengeance sits slightly above the playfield, and the ball has started to get caught behind it. Is there a way to lower the magnet a little?

Make sure that the spinner shaft is free to rotate on the frame. You might indeed need to use a tiny amount of light oil on the contact points. As far as the magnet, yes it can be raised or lowered from under the playfield.. It is secured with large nuts.

Were you able to resolve the opto issue?

Hi Everyone,

I just installed four new DE/Sega/Stern leg brackets (Pinball Life) to protect my Stern Star Trek Pro cabinet from splitting. However, now when I turn on the machine it starts in the service menu. I then open the coin door and nothing happens but when I hit the service/green button the machine appears to go back to normal play.

Unfortunately, then I cannot get into the service menu then. What did I do wrong? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Joe

Problem solved thanks to Stern service support (Thanks Guys). Pinched wire was the culprit.

Ours is attached to the upper "weapons"
bank of stand-up targets by a very strong thin piece of wire and fastened by a screw. Not attached to the ramp at all.
Don't ask me how to as it was installed before we bought it.
Well worth the expense though as it adds a lot to the game imo.

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Here you go, like this.

On my machine, all the Opto leads were twisted nicely already. It appears that the connectors are hot-glued! is that normal?

After seating all the connectors in the back box, and generally feeling like I didn't do anything of substance, the game works fine now. I expect this behavior to recur until I really figure out what is causing it. thanks for following up.

I'll have her open this weekend to try my luck at changing out the mini coil in the Left gate and replacing a broken (and unnecessary) actuator arm on the upper flipper assy.

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Hi Joe,

It sounds like you pinched, pulled, or cut a wire or two. So the first spot to look would be around the brackets you put in. Don’t even bother looking for colors, just look for wires first.

If that doesn’t lead you directly to the problem, time to tract the wires back. I’m not near my ST right now, but basically you are tracing the wires from the button panel back to the back box. Again, that should find the connector or wiring problem.

It usually does feel like you haven't really done anything when I do this. It's just reseating. It's a connection issue and it just needs to be wiggled.

I would say the hot glue is due to the same issue and previous owner did it. Not sure I would so that but I guess I can see the logic of trying to keep them connected permanently.

I'd have to think over the ruleset a bit to sort that out. On mine the L gate was there but not working so all R orbit shots and plunges went to the pops, that's a possible explanation. The R gate was missing so any L orbit shots always cleared to the R orbit which you would think would set me up for multiple warp ramp shots but since I suck I doubt that was the case.

In reality I think I'm just angry cause my son has the current GC which I can't seem to beat despite trying multiple different strategies so I'm using the gates as a excuse.

Oh now that you have changed the setup by fixing the gates, you get to clear the GC, and all of his scores

Props to kapsreiter for rerunning the blackout mod. Put mine in today. Easy to install and soooooo cool! Thanks again man.

still waiting on mine

we have 1 ST Topper back in stock
275$ shipped

works with a 12V 1A plug

we have some blackout mods for PREM/LE in stock again

I just lifted the playfield on my ST Premium and discovered this yellow / red stripe wire had been pulled out of the IDC connector. This board is mounted on the back wall inside the cabinet.
I’m not sure what this little board does but I’m assuming this yellow/red wire goes to CN4 pin 2? Right next to the solid red wire?
Can someone please confirm that is where it should go?

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Saw your thread and responded, but yes, that's where it goes.

Thank YOU! I appreciate the quick response. Do you know what he function of this little board is?

Not sure. Took a quick look at the manual and the only CN4 ref I saw was with an led board. So lighting somewhere I'd guess.

My guess is an ocdled board... looks similar to the one I have in Tommy.

From TWIP .... Would have been cool.

On the craziest mech one of the designers brought to him that he knew would be costly:

John Rotharmel: For Star Trek, the Vengeance was originally going to be something much much more complicated and probably cooler to watch as well, but the cost got completely out of hand…you know how the field camera works in an NFL game, that air camera that spans the field? [Steve Ritchie] wanted to do something like that. And that turned out to be extremely costly. We almost got there, but finally we pulled the plug on it…but that is originally what Steve [Ritchie] wanted, a ship that would span the game.

Any update on when mine is shipping?

Nope, definitely not that. I have one in my Mustang as well. I was helping someone diagnose their game, and without that board some lights were not working (as I recall a couple years ago). LEDOCD looks much different.

Just joined the club!! What did I miss??

You have missed years of missing the critical shot to get to Enterprise Amok. I cannot count how many warp speed comebacks off the left standup that splits the scoop from the spinner lane, and you forgot to decide which you wanted to hit and smashed the middle right down to the outhole. You have missed me screaming out "FIRE EVERYTHING" at the top of my lungs 479 times as I started into Nero 3. You have missed banter between me and friends as we tell each other "You better think about what you did on Kronos".

I only hope you can catch up. Better get playing!

Anyone in the club with awesome photoshop skills? Looking to add some nice instruction cards, I’ve got the idea but lack the photoshop skill to create them. Thanks

I’m sure someone here could do it

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only/page/24#post-6239856

How did it work out? If positive, can you post info, or link to the motor speed control switch?

.

I installed one on my regular coin taker shaker motor and it's freaking amazing. 10 min install and you can dial that motor in exact where you want it. Pretty much a necessary install imo.

It was super easy to install and works flawlessly. I now have the perfect amount of shake.

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYSBQK7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_W3STZPS1M85VQC10K5SP