Haddonfield, NJ
Would anyone have the 1.62 custom code with movie music that would work for a Vault Premium? I have one coming next week. thanks and cant wait to join the club.
(Topic ID: 57136)
Linked Games
Star Trek
Bally, 1979-
Star Trek
Data East, 1991
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Star Trek
Gottlieb, 1971
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Star Trek (LE)
Stern, 2013
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Star Trek (Premium)
Stern, 2013
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Star Trek (Pro)
Stern, 2013
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Star Trek: The Mirror Universe
Pinball-Mods.com, 2014
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Star Trek: The Next Generation
Williams, 1993
Topic Gallery
Well look what the cat dragged in,,,,,
After a long Pinside hiatus, I am back and happy to post that I now have a Stern ST Pro to add to my ST collection. I now have the Bally ST (I parts needing major restoration), Data East ST, Williams STNG, and now a Stern ST Pro. I'll post a pic of the newer 3 side by side once I move. The Bally one I will post pics of as I paint/stencil and rebuild that one.
That being said, and being late to the show, would anyone happen to have a line on a Vengance Dress up kit ?? Everywhere I look they sold out ages ago.
Quoted from Ecw0930:Got Tantrum's flipper toppers!
Perfect!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Hey! Those look pretty good. I must admit,
better than I thought they would.
So i bought my Star Trek pro a few months ago. It worked fine until i installed new code. I started getting the frantic warp garbage and the machine going haywire. So i reinstalled the code with a new flash drive and the problem immediately went away and game played correctly ever since. Until Saturday night it started doing the frantic warp again. The pin hasn't been played very much over the last month. I did reinstall code of the same flash drive and the problem is still there. Any ideas before i start investigating?
Quoted from smersh:So i bought my Star Trek pro a few months ago. It worked fine until i installed new code. I started getting the frantic warp garbage and the machine going haywire. So i reinstalled the code with a new flash drive and the problem immediately went away and game played correctly ever since. Until Saturday night it started doing the frantic warp again. The pin hasn't been played very much over the last month. I did reinstall code of the same flash drive and the problem is still there. Any ideas before i start investigating?
I've seen dirty, bad, or loose wires on optos cause this. I'd hone in on that vs. anything being triggered by a SW update.
Quoted from Mathazar:I've seen dirty, bad, or loose wires on optos cause this. I'd hone in on that vs. anything being triggered by a SW update.
Yeah, probably coincidental.
Reminds me, I've had a ramp opto disabled for this very reason for a while now, doesn't seem to affect play but I really ought to fix that someday.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:OK,
I replaced the auto launch coil and no change. A recap...
New coil, spring, sleeve, no binding found. Ball stop and plunger/link good. Installed clips to eliminate side to side play in linkage, adjusted fork so perfect and equal contact with ball.
Shoots nice to the pops for first several minutes then starts to get weak. After a about 10 min. it can barley make it to the playfield! Coil barely gets warm. This happens only after a game is started (whether played or not). WTF is going on? Spoke to a tech at Pinball Classics and he said it's extremely unlikely that it's the driver board. He told me to check for binding. There is none. So what now?
Well, I replaced the J8 IDC connector with a Molex connector and Trifurcon crimps. No change on my ball launcher. Now I ordered a new P40NF10L MOSFET Solenoid Driver to replace Q2. So we'll see if that works. 
I was measuring .7 vdc across auto launch coil when idle with no current flow measured (if that means anything). MOSFET Q2 never gets warm to the touch.
Quoted from smersh:So i bought my Star Trek pro a few months ago. It worked fine until i installed new code. I started getting the frantic warp garbage and the machine going haywire. So i reinstalled the code with a new flash drive and the problem immediately went away and game played correctly ever since. Until Saturday night it started doing the frantic warp again. The pin hasn't been played very much over the last month. I did reinstall code of the same flash drive and the problem is still there. Any ideas before i start investigating?
Reseat ALL connections in the backbox. Lift playfield and reseat all opto connectors. Lastly, twist the opto wire under the magnet. This in essence cancels out any interference from the magnet.
Can we make this a sticky?
The connectors and pins will not tolerate repeated reseating. The pins are plated and the plating wears out.
As of yesterday, I am officially a Star Trek TNG pinball machine owner. I'm so excited to get started. And now I'm very overwhelmed. This thing is trashed and I have no idea where to start. I have fading on the plastics, corrosion on every rail and servo, and a melted battery took out my PCB. At this point I have cleaned the outside and removed the main board. I would love some advice about where I should be starting in restoring this old girl. I'm not even going to power her up until I get her thoroughly cleaned and that board rebuilt/replaced. Any advice out there for me? This is my first pinball restoration.
IMG_20210223_123431 (resized).jpgIMG_20210223_164818 (resized).jpgIMG_20210223_164921 (resized).jpgStart somewhere and have fun. That's the best advice to offer
That CPU board looks like you just need to try cleaning it.
I'll pull the ASIC and any other socketed chips; then try cleaning the green sludge off of it.
I start with this guide/Thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stripping-battery-corrosion-with-a-strong-acid
IF you decide for some reason you don't want to repair it... or have it repaired; I'd be happy to take it off your hands as a spare.
Quoted from Ecw0930:Reseat ALL connections in the backbox. Lift playfield and reseat all opto connectors. Lastly, twist the opto wire under the magnet. This in essence cancels out any interference from the magnet.
Can we make this a sticky?
I can make your post a key post. What exactly does it fix, just so I can word it appropriately?
Quoted from Flippinski:As of yesterday, I am officially a Star Trek TNG pinball machine owner. I'm so excited to get started. And now I'm very overwhelmed. This thing is trashed and I have no idea where to start. I have fading on the plastics, corrosion on every rail and servo, and a melted battery took out my PCB. At this point I have cleaned the outside and removed the main board. I would love some advice about where I should be starting in restoring this old girl. I'm not even going to power her up until I get her thoroughly cleaned and that board rebuilt/replaced. Any advice out there for me? This is my first pinball restoration.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
First - welcome to the club! Second...man, you picked a hellava pin to be your first restoration. Be sure you fav this forum - read it front to back before you dive in to your pin: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club. There are lots of friendly STTNG folks there who will be happy to help you thru your adventure. No question is too stupid, but please do read thru that thread to see if what you're asking has already been covered.
My advice, in general, would be to pull all the boards out of the backbox and send them to a pro to be refurbished. While the boards are out for repair (which could take weeks or longer), start tearing down your playfield and make sure you're not missing parts. Disassemble the mechs to de-rust and clean/polish. If any are too far gone, look for replacements.
There's lots more to do after that, but that's where I'd start.
Quoted from mbrave77:Was that aurich who made it?
Yes. Check with him, he may have extras from the last run not long ago.
Thanks for the positive responses. I'll start looking for a board recondition specialist. Great advice.
Quoted from f3honda4me:I can make your post a key post. What exactly does it fix, just so I can word it appropriately?
When the optos go crazy and triggers the warp ramp to go nuts. Warp ramp will rack up warps and you won't even touch the ball. Just gently (but firmly) reseating the connectors has done the trick the best. Also, twisting the wire under the magnet (if not already twisted) and moving it away from the magnet helps as well.
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:The connectors and pins will not tolerate repeated reseating. The pins are plated and the plating wears out.
This is very true. I do not mean to take them out and put them back in. Simply pushing them in gently but firmly will do the trick.
Definitely should take them off of you don't have to.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:Yeah, probably coincidental.
Reminds me, I've had a ramp opto disabled for this very reason for a while now, doesn't seem to affect play but I really ought to fix that someday.
How does disabling a ramp opto even let you hit that shot? I mean, you can hit it, but surely it cannot score any points, now.
Quoted from Doctor6:How does disabling a ramp opto even let you hit that shot? I mean, you can hit it, but surely it cannot score any points, now.
On Sterns Stark Trek there are ramp entrance and exit optos. The exit optos score the shot. Because there aren't any sounds/Callouts if you don't make the shot, you barely notice if the entrance optos aren't working. I think the only thing they do is to calculate timers...
Quoted from Flippinski:Any advice out there for me? This is my first pinball restoration.
Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures Pictures
Quoted from Mathazar:I've seen dirty, bad, or loose wires on optos cause this. I'd hone in on that vs. anything being triggered by a SW update.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:Yeah, probably coincidental.
Reminds me, I've had a ramp opto disabled for this very reason for a while now, doesn't seem to affect play but I really ought to fix that someday.
Quoted from Ecw0930:Reseat ALL connections in the backbox. Lift playfield and reseat all opto connectors. Lastly, twist the opto wire under the magnet. This in essence cancels out any interference from the magnet.
Can we make this a sticky?
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:The connectors and pins will not tolerate repeated reseating. The pins are plated and the plating wears out.
Quoted from f3honda4me:I can make your post a key post. What exactly does it fix, just so I can word it appropriately?
Quoted from TrekTobbyGermany:On Sterns Stark Trek there are ramp entrance and exit optos. The exit optos score the shot. Because there aren't any sounds/Callouts if you don't make the shot, you barely notice if the entrance optos aren't working. I think the only thing they do is to calculate timers...
Quoted from Ecw0930:This is very true. I do not mean to take them out and put them back in. Simply pushing them in gently but firmly will do the trick.
Definitely should take them off of you don't have to.
Quoted from Ecw0930:When the optos go crazy and triggers the warp ramp to go nuts. Warp ramp will rack up warps and you won't even touch the ball. Just gently (but firmly) reseating the connectors has done the trick the best. Also, twisting the wire under the magnet (if not already twisted) and moving it away from the magnet helps as well.
I worked on star trek and it seems to be playing fine again. I did reset j6 and made sure the opto connections on all board under playfield were pushed in firmly. The wires were twisted by magnet but not pushed away from it so i moved them. Kinda freaks me out that someone said do not reset connectors as they are plated? Never heard this.
Warrington
Little shout out to Chris aka Mr_Tantrum for these flipper toppers, super cool guy who made sure the designs where exactly what I wanted and the quality is brilliant, highly recommend Chris and his flipper toppers.
D430B6CB-5D9C-4B7A-A1DB-F30D50C05022 (resized).jpegQuoted from J85M:Little shout out to Chris aka mr_tantrum for these flipper toppers, super cool guy who made sure the designs where exactly what I wanted and the quality is brilliant, highly recommend Chris and his flipper toppers.
[quoted image]
Chris does awesome mods.
Finally got my Star Trek Pro working (fixed magnet issues and new coil stops) now trying to dial it in. The mission start shot will occasionally eject right into the top of the left sling then directly right outlane, any fixes for this? Also I keep cracking the upper rubber at the entrance to the warp, other then shooting better is there a optimal placement or different rubber to use? Also occasionally the ball will get stuck in the pops at the bottom at the rubber.
Chilliwack, BC
Quoted from xddanx:Finally got my Star Trek Pro working (fixed magnet issues and new coil stops) now trying to dial it in. The mission start shot will occasionally eject right into the top of the left sling then directly right outlane, any fixes for this? Also I keep cracking the upper rubber at the entrance to the warp, other then shooting better is there a optimal placement or different rubber to use?
Mine had the issue of bouncing of the top of the sling. I gave the guide a bit of a bend at the bottom and now it comes down nicely to the flipper. Be careful how much you bend it though, if you go to far it will be in front of of the rubber on the post. The ball could hit it going in.
Quoted from xddanx:Also I keep cracking the upper rubber at the entrance to the warp, other then shooting better is there a optimal placement or different rubber to use?
Normal rubbers on the mini posts get shredded on this game. Switch to superband mini post rubbers. They’ll last a lot longer, though they are quite bouncy so will change the feel of the game a bit.
So I have a question. Why are the optos in this game (stern star trek) so flakey? It all seems to boil down to the opto boards under the playfield. I have had seemingly two take a crap when I did a playfield swap. Is this common for those to fail THIS often? What causes them to fail, and what on the board is actually failing? Anyone have any theories?
Quoted from J85M:Little shout out to Chris aka mr_tantrum for these flipper toppers, super cool guy who made sure the designs where exactly what I wanted and the quality is brilliant, highly recommend Chris and his flipper toppers.
[quoted image]
I got a ton of stuff from Chris for my Getaway that were all great! Got the flipper toppers for St and they are quality and look great!
I picked up a vault premium a few days ago, only had around 400 plays. This game is awesome. I actually ordered the alternate translite kit a couple months ago in anticipation of picking up a pin. (A must have)
I have a color-dmd being delivered tomorrow. I will be ordering a few other mods for it. Looking to at least order the laser upgrade and black-out mod to start.
This game won't be leaving.
Quoted from Doctor6:Why are the optos in this game (stern star trek) so flakey? I
It's the craptastic build quality of the game. Seriously.
They use what looks like cheap ass clear speaker wire to "connect" the optos to the opto detector boards.
Then use a cheap ass 2 pin connector to connect that speaker wire.
It works fine for building the games... but as a maintenance issue... they could have done a much better job ensuring these worked in real use environments. Choosing a better, more vibration resistant connector. Better wire.
These are my opinions as an EE... watching Stern race to the bottom of quality. but I'm sure someone will have a different opinion.
Quoted from Doctor6:How does disabling a ramp opto even let you hit that shot? I mean, you can hit it, but surely it cannot score any points, now.
If you tell the software to disable the first right ramp opto, it compensates using just the second opto. But yeah, I need to fiddle with it one of these days.
Most connectors on most games are rated for just a few disconnects and reconnects. Beyond a few, they can get flaky just from that!
Quoted from Zitt:It's the craptastic build quality of the game. Seriously.
They use what looks like cheap ass clear speaker wire to "connect" the optos to the opto detector boards.
Then use a cheap ass 2 pin connector to connect that speaker wire.
It works fine for building the games... but as a maintenance issue... they could have done a much better job ensuring these worked in real use environments. Choosing a better, more vibration resistant connector. Better wire.
These are my opinions as an EE... watching Stern race to the bottom of quality. but I'm sure someone will have a different opinion.
I can only concur. I had warp ramp issues on a HUO Premium (I'm the third owner). After trying reseating the connectors, twisting the wires, it turns out the cable itself was at fault (I could cause the opto to trigger by just touching the wire). Replaced the wire (and connector while I was at it), not a single problem since then.
Definitely not what I would call reliable over time....
Here is the info on electronic connector durability.
https://www.electronics-notes.com/articles/electronic_components/connectors/specifications-parameters-datasheet.php
Linz
hi
we will do a new group order the next days
for the stainless steel speaker panels
if you are interested, let me know
also available
Tron
AC DC
Spiderman
LOTR
Metallica
tom
253c7f83ce0ff7cfc212cdbc22885b596dccc0f4 (resized).jpgHello, I picked up a ST LE a bit ago. Doing a bit of dialing in. One thing I noticed is that the ball guide isn’t flush with the flippers.
I noticed I have blue ball guides, are they factory?
A9543004-57DA-4CE1-B99F-49FD4E0BEFBA (resized).jpegC14EDC2A-3F77-44BB-A636-D94738B41B9D (resized).jpegQuoted from Boat:Hello, I picked up a ST LE a bit ago. Doing a bit of dialing in. One thing I noticed is that the ball guide isn’t flush with the flippers.
I noticed I have blue ball guides, are they factory? [quoted image][quoted image]
These are the ones like Pinbits makes but they are not fulfilling orders.... The hexagon patterned blue plastics...
Where can I get these? I freaking love them!
Quoted from Ecw0930:Where can I get these? I freaking love them!
He asked about "blue ball guides" ... ie the inlane guides which are factory from stern.
I'm assuming Not the slingshot plastics you are talking about.
I'm not aware of any alternate vendors for those ... yet.
Quoted from Ecw0930:These are the ones like Pinbits makes but they are not fulfilling orders.... The hexagon patterned blue plastics...
Where can I get these? I freaking love them!
https://pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_77&products_id=589
Here's a video of them...Quoted from Boat:Hello, I picked up a ST LE a bit ago. Doing a bit of dialing in. One thing I noticed is that the ball guide isn’t flush with the flippers.
I noticed I have blue ball guides, are they factory? [quoted image][quoted image]
So this just comes down to a lot of play in the system. Most of the time this is just someone being careless when they took the ball guides out last time. So the first thing to do is to take the ball guides out. Make sure the bottom plastic post parts were fitting right and not pinched. Then usually it’s just a matter of putting them back in, and adjusting them correctly so it lines up. Tighten just enough to hold them and roll a ball down the i lane. Any hop or looseness, readjust. Tighten a bit more, and keep checking to make sure they are right. Finally tighten and check. It should only take a few minutes to get it right, and will play much better.
Quoted from Boat:Hello, I picked up a ST LE a bit ago. Doing a bit of dialing in. One thing I noticed is that the ball guide isn’t flush with the flippers.
I noticed I have blue ball guides, are they factory? [quoted image][quoted image]
Excuse me, are those aluminum flippers?
Quoted from Red_Devils:just finished installing the KBOB, USS Kelvin and the warp ramp LED, many thanks to zitt for his awesome work. They really set off the machine! Goes great with the pop caps and the laser upgrade. John's mods are the best Here's a video of them...
Looks great, I'd like to add those two mods to my STLE. Did you have to do assembly or was everything shipped to you plug and play?
Quoted from Zitt:He asked about "blue ball guides" ... ie the inlane guides which are factory from stern.
I'm assuming Not the slingshot plastics you are talking about.
I'm not aware of any alternate vendors for those ... yet.
Correct, and sorry not sure about t
Quoted from DaveH:So this just comes down to a lot of play in the system. Most of the time this is just someone being careless when they took the ball guides out last time. So the first thing to do is to take the ball guides out. Make sure the bottom plastic post parts were fitting right and not pinched. Then usually it’s just a matter of putting them back in, and adjusting them correctly so it lines up. Tighten just enough to hold them and roll a ball down the i lane. Any hop or looseness, readjust. Tighten a bit more, and keep checking to make sure they are right. Finally tighten and check. It should only take a few minutes to get it right, and will play much better.
Thank you for the response! I will give it a go!
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