(Topic ID: 57136)

Star Trek Club.... Members Only!


By Jean-Luc-Picard

7 years ago

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There are 9615 posts in this topic. You are on page 185 of 193.
#9201 3 months ago
Quoted from smersh:

So I had a J1 connector on the Warp ramp opto board loose and intermitting. I fixed that! I also had a broken diode on the spinner micro switch so fixed that. Turned on pressed start and nothing....after a moment it started game and started going right up the warps,, skipping sounds, double scoring, extra ball, heck I think it even paid my mortgage. All that with the ball in the shooter lane. I put in test mode and went to switch test and 4 optos where blowing up the test oscillating very fast, rapidly. None of the 3 other opto boards and there four opto would register. So I shut pin off reseted every opto connector to their boards. Seems to work and play correctly now. A little nervous. lol. I did read in a forum post from a few years back that the new code made the optos more sensitive and unplugging and plugging back in was recommended.

This is a intermittent problem with mine since the week I bought it.

My fixes (after a lot of frustration)...

1. Twist the opto wire directly under the magnet. The magnetic field can interfere with the signal if it's not twisted. (Dm me and I'll explain)

2. Reseat all the opto connections on the board under the playfield. Easy. Not time consuming. Just be careful.

3. Reseat ALL the connections in the backbox. Again, carefully. Pull on them a (very) little, then push them back in snugly.

My ST pro has done exactly this numerous times.to the point where I almost sent the boards away to be resoldered.

Good luck my friend.

#9202 3 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

My ST pro has done exactly this numerous times.to the point where I almost sent the boards away to be resoldered.

My LE does the warp thing at least once during Pinball Shows.
I always have to life the PF and wiggle the opto wires.
I never have tried to figure out which connector specific is giving me issues.

#9203 3 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

This is a intermittent problem with mine since the week I bought it.
My fixes (after a lot of frustration)...
1. Twist the opto wire directly under the magnet. The magnetic field can interfere with the signal if it's not twisted. (Dm me and I'll explain)
2. Reseat all the opto connections on the board under the playfield. Easy. Not time consuming. Just be careful.
3. Reseat ALL the connections in the backbox. Again, carefully. Pull on them a (very) little, then push them back in snugly.
My ST pro has done exactly this numerous times.to the point where I almost sent the boards away to be resoldered.
Good luck my friend.

Oh boy! I have pinball friends up here in New England that have Star Treks all models. I'm going to reach out to them also see what problems they have had. I think I'm going to try a glue gun and apply little amount of glue where the opto connector connects to opto board. I have done all reset connections and found 3 very loose and one that will shut opto off. I fixed that by apply small amount of solder on the 2 opto board header pins. Easy to do and made the connector snug. A temp fix until i check out parts. I will reset connectors on the boards in head next. This all started happening after code update. Crazy

#9204 3 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

This is a intermittent problem with mine since the week I bought it.
My fixes (after a lot of frustration)...
1. Twist the opto wire directly under the magnet. The magnetic field can interfere with the signal if it's not twisted. (Dm me and I'll explain)
2. Reseat all the opto connections on the board under the playfield. Easy. Not time consuming. Just be careful.
3. Reseat ALL the connections in the backbox. Again, carefully. Pull on them a (very) little, then push them back in snugly.
My ST pro has done exactly this numerous times.to the point where I almost sent the boards away to be resoldered.
Good luck my friend.

Can u post here how to twist the opto wires?

#9205 3 months ago
Quoted from smersh:

Oh boy! I have pinball friends up here in New England that have Star Treks all models. I'm going to reach out to them also see what problems they have had. I think I'm going to try a glue gun and apply little amount of glue where the opto connector connects to opto board. I have done all reset connections and found 3 very loose and one that will shut opto off. I fixed that by apply small amount of solder on the 2 opto board header pins. Easy to do and made the connector snug. A temp fix until i check out parts. I will reset connectors on the boards in head next. This all started happening after code update. Crazy

Yeah I was told/I red somewhere that those pins aren't meant for many disconnections and will loosen easily. So don't tug them out and push them back. Just be gentle and secure them onto the pins best you can. Mine seem pretty secure in the box but under the pf there are some a little loose. It's really hard to tell which one is the culprit. From what I've gathered if one goes nuts, it effects them all.

And to twist the wire you just disconnect one end from the board and twist it half a dozen times. Then try to move it away from the magnet as much as possible. Reconnect it securely.

#9206 3 months ago

Drinkin' and playin' tonight. It's going to be a long time before I consider selling this one. I'm going to add a second pin soon, but whatever I get will probably be cycled through before letting my Trek go. Such a fun game!

0108211940 (resized).jpg

#9207 3 months ago

So here is a update on my star trek optos and machine going crazy. I secured all optos connections under playfield still had the issue. I bought a new memory stick and formatted it and re-download the new code and installed it again on machine. Star trek is all better now. Played for hours fine with no issue's.

#9208 3 months ago
Quoted from Flyfalcons:

Drinkin' and playin' tonight. It's going to be a long time before I consider selling this one. I'm going to add a second pin soon, but whatever I get will probably be cycled through before letting my Trek go. Such a fun game!
[quoted image]

Couldn’t agree more, Star Trek is one of my longest standing games along with Ironman, TRON and my Avatar and I’m considering letting all of those go except Ironman to make space and fund other games.

Don’t think I will ever move my LE on, it’s Ritchies best modern Stern layout imo and there isn’t a shot in pinball better than the warp ramp!

#9209 3 months ago
Quoted from J85M:

Couldn’t agree more, Star Trek is one of my longest standing games along with Ironman, TRON and my Avatar and I’m considering letting all of those go except Ironman to make space and fund other games.
Don’t think I will ever move my LE on, it’s Ritchies best modern Stern layout imo and there isn’t a shot in pinball better than the warp ramp!

Bashing the ship is right up there too. Probably the most fun interactive toy in pinball! I love hitting the demogorgon in stranger things, but the Vengeance is just better.

I had a Getaway (also Ritchie). Absolutely loved it. Sold it and ended up with my Star Trek. It's awesome! And my shaker motor should be here this weekend.

#9210 3 months ago

AUDIO QUESTION.

The bottom speaker on mine is just a speaker it seems. And it's not very loud. Is it supposed to be more of a speaker or woofer? Are there gains we can adjust?

Really considering getting a subwoofer for it now after realizing it's not that great of a speaker. Concerned it's got a blown cone (no clue how that would happen).

#9211 3 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

AUDIO QUESTION.
The bottom speaker on mine is just a speaker it seems. And it's not very loud. Is it supposed to be more of a speaker or woofer? Are there gains we can adjust?
Really considering getting a subwoofer for it now after realizing it's not that great of a speaker. Concerned it's got a blown cone (no clue how that would happen).

It's just a speaker. I added an external subwoofer to my game and it makes a big difference when I use it.

And I agree on the Vengeance shot. It was important for me in selecting a game, that I could have friends over or let my kids play, that there would be a relatively simple goal to steer them toward that has a big payoff. The Vengeance fills that role well. Despite my kids being Dinosaur nuts, Jurassic Park just doesn't have that singular wow shot. Neither do a lot of other games that are highly regarded by serious players here. Doesn't mean I don't like them either, but a game in my home needs to appeal to all experience and skill levels.

#9212 3 months ago

for the loose opto connectors, if you flick the pins out of the housings (press down the little tab on top of pin then slide out) then get some small pliers and squeeze the pins down a bit. slide them back into housing and you will find the connectors seat far tighter. Improves contact of pin to board and
probably better than putting hot glue everywhere.

Re the shaker motor its the first thing i added to my premium. It really adds allot to this game so a must IMHO. Worth buying a PWM board off amazon if your shaker kit doesn't come with one. that way you can fine tune the shake to what suits you.

#9213 3 months ago

For the opto connectors, with a proper crimping tool it's super easy to replace the pins in the connector housing.

Also, on mine I had a faulty wire on one of the warp ramp opto, it was triggering like crazy. Replaced the wires, it's been rock solid since then, not a single failure (and I've payed quite a few games), so worth checking

#9214 3 months ago
Quoted from paulg100:

for the loose opto connectors, if you flick the pins out of the housings (press down the little tab on top of pin then slide out) then get some small pliers and squeeze the pins down a bit. slide them back into housing and you will find the connectors seat far tighter. Improves contact of pin to board and
probably better than putting hot glue everywhere.
Re the shaker motor its the first thing i added to my premium. It really adds allot to this game so a must IMHO. Worth buying a PWM board off amazon if your shaker kit doesn't come with one. that way you can fine tune the shake to what suits you.

Not familiar with a PWM board. I found a few of them on Amazon tho. Can you recommend one? Link?

#9215 3 months ago
Quoted from smersh:

Hi folks. I just made may way here to the club. I picked up a star trek pro monday and played great until. Lol. It had the original code in it so I updated it last night to the new code on sterns website. Everything went good in installing code. But now i have weird behavior, the game keeps saying warp 5, warp 7 and more warps kinda like a cd skipping. Goes into double scoring and a few other crazy stuff. Im not sure if it's a bad switch that just showed up the same time as i installed code or shortly after or is this the code doing it? I did play a game or two right after install and played with no issues but no long game. I don't know star trek enough so I am reaching out for a solution. Thank you.

There's an excellent alternate code w/some great improvements in sound (somewhere). I might have a copy of it still. With an external sub, it just sounds amazing.

#9216 3 months ago

For the best play on star trek, what are all of you using for a pitch? Using the bubble level on right side where is the bubble on your game?

#9217 3 months ago
Quoted from smersh:

For the best play on star trek, what are all of you using for a pitch? Using the bubble level on right side where is the bubble on your game?

I use the bubble to get a rough idea then use a digital level, I have most my games about 6.7.

6.5 is usually a good place to start for 99% of games, I have them slightly up from that to just add a touch more speed.

Ultimately just pitch them at whatever plays best in your opinion, it’s your game so set them up to your liking.

#9218 3 months ago
Quoted from J85M:

I use the bubble to get a rough idea then use a digital level, I have most my games about 6.7.
6.5 is usually a good place to start for 99% of games, I have them slightly up from that to just add a touch more speed.
Ultimately just pitch them at whatever plays best in your opinion, it’s your game so set them up to your liking.

Thanks. I was curious, mines pitched slightly steep touching the line on top of playfield bubble. I'm getting lots of air balls which .migbt be common but i don't like how hard and fast the ball comes down the plastic ramps. I like to use the bubble on my stern games it works fairly good as does a digital level or phone app as long as you take glass off and sit on play field.

#9219 3 months ago

I don't bother "dialing in" because I move my games regularly between home and Texas Pinball Shows.
I just put the rear bolts all the way out and the front bolts all the way in.
It's close enough given I moved games twice a year prior to Covid.

#9220 3 months ago
Quoted from smersh:

For the best play on star trek, what are all of you using for a pitch? Using the bubble level on right side where is the bubble on your game?

6.5-7 ° for just about every game ever. I like mine around 7. Star Trek is no exception.

#9221 3 months ago

Shaker motor installed.

How do I dial in it? Tune it? Turn it down....

I got the regular cointaker one. It's amazing. But I could turn it down a little if it's possible.

#9222 3 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

Shaker motor installed.
How do I dial in it? Tune it? Turn it down....
I got the regular cointaker one. It's amazing. But I could turn it down a little if it's possible.

Is there a threaded rod that runs from one side of the metal bracket to the other? If so, tighten it.

#9223 3 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

Shaker motor installed.
How do I dial in it? Tune it? Turn it down....
I got the regular cointaker one. It's amazing. But I could turn it down a little if it's possible.

You can change the orientation of the weights

#9224 3 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Is there a threaded rod that runs from one side of the metal bracket to the other? If so, tighten it.

There is yes. I will try that next. What does that do?

Quoted from DudeRegular:

You can change the orientation of the weights

I tried that. It either didn't shake or shook too much. It isn't easy to find a sweet spot.

It just sounds loose. Everything is tightened.

I'm going to get a PWM board controller and use that. A few other threads have outlined how to install them and everyone loves them.

#9225 3 months ago

no need to mess with the weights. use a PWM like this. Its easy to wire in.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06XHGP58T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh and as already mentioned the alternative 1.62 with the movie music is a great improvement although the stock audio isnt bad either.

#9226 3 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

There is yes. I will try that next. What does that do?

Tightening it lessens the intensity somewhat. Try that first. It might be all you need.

#9227 3 months ago

If you want to do the pwm, no worries. I don't think its a big deal to adjust the weights personally. Its also free.

#9228 3 months ago

This might be a dumb question... But...

Does it make a difference if the weights are going (rotating) sideways across the machine or if they are longways front to back?

I assumed it was only installable in one direction (rotating across) but I just got to wondering....

#9229 3 months ago

Also, the shaker motor itself is the loud part. Like too loud. Like annoyingly loud.

Anyone have this issue? Is it too much power? I have the pwm board coming Wednesday. Is there an existing adjustment I could try?

#9230 3 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Tightening it lessens the intensity somewhat. Try that first. It might be all you need.

I tightened it a bit. No difference. Maybe I will really crank it down later.

#9231 3 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

Also, the shaker motor itself is the loud part. Like too loud. Like annoyingly loud.
Anyone have this issue? Is it too much power? I have the pwm board coming Wednesday. Is there an existing adjustment I could try?

Is the shaker motor loud, or are you hearing something else, like the playfield glass rattle? Try pushing down on the edges of the glass as you trigger the motor and see if it goes away. If so, add some duct tape to the edge of the glass in that area to stop the rattle.

#9232 3 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Is the shaker motor loud, or are you hearing something else, like the playfield glass rattle? Try pushing down on the edges of the glass as you trigger the motor and see if it goes away. If so, add some duct tape to the edge of the glass in that area to stop the rattle.

I added tape to the glass thinking it was that, but the glass is off now while I'm testing. It's 100% not the glass, and not other parts.

I'm 99% sure it's the motor. I emptied all loose things. The noise is coming directly from the motor. And it really only does it at TOP speed. But at that TOP speed it is LOUD! My family is making fun saying there's a lawnmower down there.

Moving the weights only effects the shake. The noise is constant whether the weights are at 0 or 90 or 180°....

#9233 3 months ago

Sounds like a bad motor ... if it's making that much racket.
That said; I have zero experience with after market; as my LE came with shaker at the factory.

#9234 3 months ago

Can u folks give me the ultimate speaker replacement for Star Trek and what would be killer in Areosmith?

#9235 3 months ago
Quoted from smersh:

Can u folks give me the ultimate speaker replacement for Star Trek and what would be killer in Areosmith?

Instead of replacing, I added a Polk external subwoofer under the cabinet. Really fills out the sound well.

amazon.com link »

#9236 3 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

I tightened it a bit. No difference. Maybe I will really crank it down later.

Get the Stern approved shaker from Pinball Life. They are perfect.

#9237 3 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Get the Stern approved shaker from Pinball Life. They are perfect.

Yeah...the Pinball Life (or stock Stern shakers, though more $) are the way to go. Both Cointaker versions are awful. The Red Tremor is the most ridiculous thing ever. I like a strong shaker, but you are just asking for something to break using these, and they are a loud, unpleasant experience. Even their standard shaker runs at a faster RPM and just feels weird. With how cheap the PBL version is, there is really no reason to use anything different. They feel basically the same as the stock shaker. They work with the machine, rather than feel like they are trying to destroy the machine, LOL.

#9238 3 months ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

Yeah...the Pinball Life (or stock Stern shakers, though more $) are the way to go. Both Cointaker versions are awful. The Red Tremor is the most ridiculous thing ever. I like a strong shaker, but you are just asking for something to break using these, and they are a loud, unpleasant experience. Even their standard shaker runs at a faster RPM and just feels weird. With how cheap the PBL version is, there is really no reason to use anything different. They feel basically the same as the stock shaker. They work with the machine, rather than feel like they are trying to destroy the machine, LOL.

I have a standard PL shaker in my LOTR. I took the standard CT one out. I will be getting a Stern recommended shaker for my LZ premium to keep the warranty. It is only $20 more than the regular PL shaker.

#9239 3 months ago

Question i have a shaker in my GOTG Pro would it work in my Star Trek Pro?

#9240 3 months ago
Quoted from smoothbore19:

Question i have a shaker in my GOTG Pro would it work in my Star Trek Pro?

In general, no. Spike and SAM systems require different shaker circuitry. It probably can be done if you really know what you are doing to convert, but I remember asking Terry at Pinball Life about that awhile back, and he said no.

#9241 3 months ago

Ok that's kinda what I was thinking. I'll have to just order on for the Star Trek

#9242 3 months ago

I'm thinking about purchasing a ST Pro here this weekend....I've played one before and really love it. But, I cant' find a matrix that lists the dif between a pro and premium. the Pinside ratings are quite a bit different for the two, but what is the real diff? I dont' want to start a row, just would like to understand what makes the Premimu so much better? (or is that the LE?) I don't know...

#9243 3 months ago
Quoted from StoneyCreek:

I'm thinking about purchasing a ST Pro here this weekend....I've played one before and really love it. But, I cant' find a matrix that lists the dif between a pro and premium. the Pinside ratings are quite a bit different for the two, but what is the real diff? I dont' want to start a row, just would like to understand what makes the Premimu so much better? (or is that the LE?) I don't know...

Laser, light show, more rgb inserts, left eject, powdercoating. Mostly cosmetic, but they are nice cosmetics.

#9244 3 months ago
Quoted from StoneyCreek:

I'm thinking about purchasing a ST Pro here this weekend....I've played one before and really love it. But, I cant' find a matrix that lists the dif between a pro and premium. the Pinside ratings are quite a bit different for the two, but what is the real diff? I dont' want to start a row, just would like to understand what makes the Premimu so much better? (or is that the LE?) I don't know...

Here ya go....

Pro vs Prem vs LE (resized).jpg
#9245 3 months ago
Quoted from StoneyCreek:

I'm thinking about purchasing a ST Pro here this weekend....I've played one before and really love it. But, I cant' find a matrix that lists the dif between a pro and premium. the Pinside ratings are quite a bit different for the two, but what is the real diff? I dont' want to start a row, just would like to understand what makes the Premimu so much better? (or is that the LE?) I don't know...

As far as playability there are very few changes. Instead of a kickback on the left, it launches a ball back into play in the shooter lane. Instead of shooting the ball up to the rail and dropping it into the lane for the left flipper it shoots it in front of the left sling to the flipper. There is really no reason to hold out for a Premium just snag the Pro and mod it up the way you like.

#9246 3 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Here ya go....[quoted image]

Thanks!

#9247 3 months ago
Quoted from StoneyCreek:

I'm thinking about purchasing a ST Pro here this weekend....I've played one before and really love it. But, I cant' find a matrix that lists the dif between a pro and premium. the Pinside ratings are quite a bit different for the two, but what is the real diff? I dont' want to start a row, just would like to understand what makes the Premimu so much better? (or is that the LE?) I don't know...

One of the reasons I chose this game on a Pro budget is because the Pro is missing very little in gameplay versus the higher trims. Not all Sterns can claim that. And just a few simple mods can bring more excitement and bling to this game. If a Pro is what you're thinking, then I doubt you would be disappointed.

#9248 3 months ago
Quoted from Darscot:

As far as playability there are very few changes. Instead of a kickback on the left, it launches a ball back into play in the shooter lane. Instead of shooting the ball up to the rail and dropping it into the lane for the left flipper it shoots it in front of the left sling to the flipper. There is really no reason to hold out for a Premium just snag the Pro and mod it up the way you like.

What he said! He's talking about the pro. The premium has a kickback and a VUK to the wire form. It also has wire forms instead of plastic ramps. And all the lights are RGB with clear inserts for a better light show

But as far as playing... Very little difference. I've got a pro, fairly modded and I love it!

#9249 3 months ago
Quoted from Darscot:

Instead of shooting the ball up to the rail and dropping it into the lane for the left flipper it shoots it in front of the left sling to the flipper.

Allegedly.
I've played around 5 different pros. Not one of them would ever give a consistent feed. I'm sure yours and everyone elses about to chime in works perfectly, but I've yet to experience that.

The pro is still a great game. I think the all plastic ramps actually shoot nicer than the habitrails.

I've had my Premium for years. No regrets.

#9250 3 months ago
Quoted from ectobar:

Allegedly.
I've played around 5 different pros. Not one of them would ever give a consistent feed. I'm sure yours and everyone elses about to chime in works perfectly, but I've yet to experience that.
The pro is still a great game. I think the all plastic ramps actually shoot nicer than the habitrails.
I've had my Premium for years. No regrets.

Mine did not feed properly, I posted in this thread asking how to adjust it. Took me probably an hour to sort out. It's just regular tweeking any pin needs.

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