Just joined the club. The screen said it had code 1.0 so that's been upgraded to the latest. Shes gonna get all new rubber and a good clean and wax.

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What are you doing in my basement!! Oh wait, they're in the wrong order. Three great games.

Posting This question here as post in Tech repair won't reply.

Star Trek STERN PRO..

What is the best approach removing the left ramps ? Do I need to remove the warp ramp that goes through the backboard first of all ? I need to get to the two plastics in the upper left corner and install yellow fluorescent protectors... Looking at it, it looks complicated..

In what sequence would you do this and what should I look out for ?

Thanks
Matt

Put some Pinstadiums in it and wow, this machine is really fun. I honestly just grabbed it because it was such a crazy good deal, but I'm thinking of upgrading to a Premium.

Star Trek is one of Sterns best games, seems to have just flown under some peoples radars due to theme and the early code was terrible, Dwight came in last minute and turned it around into an all time great!

Mechanical feature wise the Premium doesn't add a ton, it's basically the same game. But the full RGB inserts alone make it a much cooler experience imo.

I made the mistake of buying my NIB Premium early, when the code was raw, and burned out before Dwight started working on it. Ended up selling because I wasn't playing it enough. Good lesson there, buying early definitely not always a smart play. But I never regretted going Premium.

I always felt the Pro was one of Sterns best as far as value it really feels like the same game you really only lose visuals. The lasers don't do much for me and I hate the asteroids but I do wish I had the Enterprise. The up kick is neat but doesn't add much. If there was any Stern to save money on Star Trek is it. If you have the cash bling is always the way to go.

I've been wanting this one for awhile. Got some side blades, and new rubber coming.

Love my pro... and it’s such a popular machine that it’s not that hard to make it feel like a premium...
With all the mods I’ve put on mine, I’m probably pretty close to the premium price but it’s uniquely my own which is kinda cool...

You might be able to just remove the screws at the warp ramp entrance and the lower L ramp and manipulate as needed. I will tell you that the plastic to the L of the Vengeance are a pain in the rear with some very inaccessible nuts.

I'm about to try to put Cliffys protector in the kickout which requires some L ramp work so I'll continue to post as a I do so.

Sharing a few pics from my Bally Star Trek restore. Hopefully I'll have it done in another week or two.

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Lookin' good.
A real beauty when finished,
that's for sure!

We're all about extra light show. I really want the RGB lights, strong laser mod and blackout.

Question: what's the best way to make the spinner smoother?

I put Zoom Oil on mine, it spins smooth. But I'm go to put a washer under post to raise it up and get the spinner center higher.

This has me thinking. The spinner switch actuating arm on the switch is a major source of friction. I am going to look for a small piece of teflon tubing to fit over the end of the actuating arm so that there is no metal to metal contact between the switch and spinner. That ought to make it rip.

I'm packing up this little run of alt packages this weekend. Still have a few extras left, if anyone wants in shoot me a PM. I don't do these often, not saying this is the last time, but always a chance it might be.

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I was at the Hallmark store yesterday buying a few ornaments with my kids when I stumbled upon this new Star Trek tree topper. Topper is really cool and would look great as a pinball topper - I plan to restore my machine as soon as I am done with my Gottlieb Spider-Man restoration.

Just an FYI to the community if you have not seen it. Cheers

https://www.hallmark.com/ornaments/keepsake-ornaments/star-trek-u.s.s.-enterprise-musical-tree-topper-with-light-1QXI6004.html

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I have some side blades coming, and I'm a bit worried my cabinet and playfield are really tight on the inside. The left ramp touches the side. Is there a way to adjust the playfield in the cabinet to give a little more room?

Frank, I bought a pinbot from you a couple years back. I think you were in the middle of working on a Star Trek back then too!

Thanks for getting back to me. You're the only so far that did. Loosend the warp ramp. Tomorrow I'll see if I can wiggle it out.

Reg
Matt

105477

Well sh-- I have noticed that I have several inserts that have ghosting around their edges. Should I worry? I don't really mind the look its the possibility that the clear could chip or something like that.

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I wouldn’t be worried about chipping. The ghosting is from sight separation of the clear from the insert. The surface looks to be intact and smooth still. Continued movement of the insert would expand the ghosting. If it progresses, you might consider trying to stabilize the inserts from behind with carefully applied epoxy around the edge where the inserts meet the playfield cutout. I’ve had success fixing ghosting by CAREFULLY drilling through the ghosted area by twisting a jewelers bit backwards into the area with my fingers until I just barely feel the bit hit the insert. Then inject 2pac into the void with a tiny syringe until it has filled the affected area. At this stage, I would just leave it alone. Avoid large temperature and humidity swings as those conditions tend to exacerbate ghosting.

Sounds good thank you. My basement stay pretty much 68 year around. I'll definitely keep an eye on them. Hopefully they don't get any worse

In case it's of interest to anyone else...

I was looking for a removable, no damage method to fix the steel panel from kapsreiter to my Premium (i.e without using mirror tape/glue or drilling holes).

After a bunch of searching I found that an automotive J Clip Flexible Seat Clip 1/4" x 1 1/16" from Albright (code "SC0LD" - ignore the smiley it's S C 0 8 O L D), when sawed to the right length, clips on perfectly at the bottom. (I just had to slide it in from one side.) The steel panel is pretty thin and can be slotted in to the bottom. It stuck out a few mm at the top so I pushed cable clips in to the gap, one on each side.

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Optos on the fritz again. Warp 9.9 before you even flip a ball. Center target lock up alert is not constant.

Sending the boards out to get reflowed then hoping that works.

Why are these optos such a constant and sporadic pain and problem? What does it need with the center drop target? Why does it seem all the optos go haywire together?

I read the early releases were much worse (mine is one) but the vault editions don't have these problems.

remove and re-seat all connectors in the Head. That fixed mine and some others. Worth a shot.

I had the same issue, reflowed the solder on the opto board to no avail. Since I could see the opto triggering in test mode when I was touching the wire of one of the opto, I ended up replacing the wire (be sure to have a replacement connector, didn't have one so currently it's hooked up with Dupont.... Ouch), io and behold no issue ever since.

Just did a full rubber replacement, and wax. Only have one plastic i forgot to put back on before the left two ramps. I have the Aurich alt package coming and a shooter lane protector. I still need to put the side blades on, but I'm saving those for when I dont have to lift the playfield anymore for awhile. I'm worried since the damn playfield is so close to the cabinet on each side. Oh and I got to the Kobayashi maru multi ball and BAM FN TILT JUST BEFORE IT STARTED.

Hopefully soon, the tracking is a mess on things right now though, I don't see them updated yet. Post office was a zoo when I dropped everything off yesterday, not really counting on 2 day priority to count this time around. Just that time of year, plus the pandemic isn't helping.

Edit: Tracking should be working now, looks like most people should get their package by the weekend. I definitely picked the worst possible week to try and ship things I think!

in the backbox you mean? not just the ones the optos are connected to? im doing this tonight and testing.

if it comes to that. Going to try a reflow first. if the reseating in the backbox doesn't work tonight i'll be taking the boards off and sending them away.

Yes, In the backbox.

Joined the club a few weeks ago with a ST pro. Absolutely love this game!

My question is did anyone make a mod for the upper rollovers by the pops so you can see the rollover lights better? Ala ToM or GB....

It's impossible to see the far left and difficult for the center unless you actually move your body to the right and try and peer over the Vengeance ship.

Anything out there?

If you order this... like I did... go to the Star Trek Official site. https://shop.startrek.com/

They have a code for 30% off anything in their store. CYBER. It knocked the price down to $105. With shipping and tax only $118.

Couldn't pass it up...

it freakin worked! spent some time reseating and when i turned it on it worked! Played it lastnight for about an hour.

Right at the end the center drop target started acting weird. It would up/down for no reason, not come up when it should lock a ball. Only happened once or twice that i noticed. Next time i play it i will pay close attn to it and see.

Any suggestions for the drop target issues?

Does it try multiple times to get to the up position but drops? If so the small plastic ledge frequently breaks. It was cracked and fell apart on my game and the game was nearly brand new. There is a 3d printer file running around or you can order one too. A guy I work with printed me one and it was worked great.

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-1-bank-target-rest-ledge.html

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-clubmembers-only/page/180#post-5972060

So since the opto reseating worked I checked out the drop target and reseated that too. No issues for a game or 2 tonight.

Thanks for the help y'all!

One thing to understand about the connectors is that they are rated for only a few disconnects and reconnects. In other words, they wear out. The conductive layer gets thin and current doesn't flow as well.

Can I use these for a f8 fuse? Manual says 3a 50vdc is o.e.m.

Are these the same? The filament is much smaller and different material. but both are rated 3a.

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F8... which game? Stern? Williams? Bally? Data East. Can't be WMS... Must be Stern.
The question does the manual indicate fast blow or slow blow?

It's probably a normal blow... so that fuse should work fine.
Pretty sure they do not make glass fuses at 50V. I'd bet it's 250V.
Do you not have the original fuse to read the value from it?

I did this DIY speaker light mod, I posted in the 3D Printing thread but figured people might like it here.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printing-sharing-thread-lets-better-the-hobby#post-5996064

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Nice, I didn't know there was a 3d printing thread. Will be checking it out.

I didn't either, but thanks to Darscot we do now.

That looks great, perfect match for the decal design. Smart idea, I like your model. Pretty good for a first attempt, what software did you use?

Just FreeCAD, I was considering putting the insignia in the ring so it would be a silhouette. With your art It just felt like they perfectly represented the warp drives so left them out. I think it was the right choice I love how they came out.

Less is more, I think that was a good call.

I started to learn Fusion 360 but got a bit overwhelmed with the time I was needing to spend really learning it. My fallback for doing simple stuff is to just use TinkerCAD. You can do surprisingly complicated designs with it, very useful for whipping up functional stuff.

Hi Aurich, I am waiting on mine too. Tracking shows it was supposed to be here Friday and it's running late, not a big deal, it will get here I am sure but an FYI for you is that this is very typical of the post office right now and not just because of Christmas. Since about June or July they have gone to shit. I had two priority mail packages coming from Illinois to Ohio back in August. The 1st package took 6 weeks! The second package did a bit better @ 3 weeks. Ever since that happened I stopped using the post office for packages and I won't use them again until they get their crap together. Don't be surprised if you get a lot of late deliverys from them.

Hey again, quick question, I have your package coming but I totally forgot the speaker grill was coming too. My question is this. I have the vault edition. It has a nifty little metal tag on the speaker panel showing it's a vault edition. Have you seen anyone remove the tag and reapply it to your speaker panel?
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Yeah because I work in gaming I actually have access to full licenses for pretty much everything. It’s just too much, I wanted to keep it simple.