(Topic ID: 57136)

Star Trek Club.... Members Only!


By Jean-Luc-Picard

7 years ago

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  • 9,615 posts
  • 761 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by kapsreiter
  • Topic is favorited by 336 Pinsiders

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There are 9615 posts in this topic. You are on page 179 of 193.
#8901 5 months ago
Quoted from Hypercoaster:

Where do you run the EL paper wire? Are you going through the speaker grill?

I found the following video very helpful in doing the EL paper install:

#8902 5 months ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

i also have some layered metal sheets for the warp-plasma topper

Do you have instructions or references on how to make "Warp Plasma" Topper with your metal sheets?

#8903 5 months ago

its very easy

i use the

eurolite plasma disc 30 cm

just use double sided mirror tape to the metal on it

and use some screws to mount it at the backbox

#8904 5 months ago

Do you guys know where to find an upper left (backbox) decal? I managed to scrape it and would like to find a replacement. For STLE...maybe I’ll call Stern to see if they have any left.

#8905 5 months ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

I found the following video very helpful in doing the EL paper install:

Useful indeed, what I don't quite get however is how to glue the metal panel when he has a relatively thick connector (at least the ones I have are thick) in the middle.

Also kind of a waste to buy two El sheets to cover the length, any pointer to a EL sheet where you can solder wires after cutting?

Regards

#8906 5 months ago

Question to those with a Star Trek Pro. Where does the ball eject to out of the left side mission start? Mine hits off the top of the left sling and it seems wrong, feels like it should come down the edge of the sling to the flipper.

It bugged me that the lock down button lights red, the trim is blue, it felt like it should be blue. The LED board in mine was actually RGB with only the red connected, I guess the premium/LE is actually RGB. Funny that they waste the extra few cents on the board but don't hook it up. I switched it over to the blue circuit but it wasn't very bright. I wired in the LEDs out of a blue flasher (don't forget a diode). Then blue lit clear flipper buttons and the three together looks pretty slick. One other little touch was I swapped the yellow dome for a blue, it way easier on the eyes. The whole area of the top right near the pops is blue no idea why they put that blinding yellow dome. Just some easy mods on the cheap.

IMG_9332 (resized).jpgIMG_9335 (resized).jpgIMG_9337 (resized).jpg
#8907 5 months ago
Quoted from dts:

Do you guys know where to find an upper left (backbox) decal? I managed to scrape it and would like to find a replacement. For STLE...maybe I’ll call Stern to see if they have any left.

Stern will tell you to pound sand, you have to go through a distributor. I know, because I had to order one. The distributor can have it shipped to your house.

#8908 5 months ago
Quoted from Darscot:

One other little touch was I swapped the yellow dome for a blue, it way easier on the eyes. The whole area of the top right near the pops is blue no idea why they put that blinding yellow dome. Just some easy mods on the cheap.

This might sound a little crazy, but on my old Scared Stiff when I swapped the flashers to LEDs they were way too bright, so I baffled the inside with teased out cotton balls. Never did set anything on fire heh, and it diffused everything to a really nice glow instead of a painful searing light.

Now that I think about it I'd probably do it by 3D printing a little inner sleeve in translucent filament these days. Less of a fire hazard. Modern tech!

I see you have my speaker decal installed from the reflection in the glass, nice little easter egg for me. Speaking of, I've closed the alt translite list and am submitting the order to my printer this morning. There's always a couple folks who see this stuff late so I'm gonna spring for a couple extras for whoever asks me for them, or I'll post a reminder here later after I have them in hand.

#8909 5 months ago

Hey can anyone help me with an electronics question for a topper project? I have a Playmates Enterprise toy which has a push button on top that activates the speech, sound, lights etc. I want to adapt it to use a motion sensor so it activates when someone walks by.

I isolated the switch wires and they appear to have a 5v signal based on a multimeter reading. When I touch the wires together the toy activates. Unfortunately if I hardwire the wires together and cycle the toy power it does not activate. This is a bummer as I was hoping to use a mains power battery replacer (amazon.com link ») and an inline mains power motion sensor.

Is there a simple way to hack the wires so they don't connect until after power up? (Using an inline capacitor, or a reed relay perhaps, although the reed relay needs more power I guess?)

I also tried hacking together a PIR sensor and transistor from an old Arduino kit but while I could get an LED on/off on a separate circuit via a transistor hooking up the same transistor to the switch wires didn't activate the toy. The Arduino components are also bulky and won't fit well in the toy which doesn't have a ton of room for electronics such as relays.

I hope this makes sense... obviously I know very little about electronics!

#8910 5 months ago
Quoted from Darscot:

Question to those with a Star Trek Pro. Where does the ball eject to out of the left side mission start? Mine hits off the top of the left sling and it seems wrong, feels like it should come down the edge of the sling to the flipper.

That needs a tweak. Mine varies depending on pitch. And there is usually some type of bending to make sure it doesn't pop off the top of the sling. I'd say about 80% of them come right down now.

Quoted from Darscot:

It bugged me that the lock down button lights red

I hate you. I never noticed that until you pointed it out. It has been here for years being enjoyed, and now it is broken until I get rid of the red light. Sigh.

#8911 5 months ago

Is there a way to post a video without uploading to YouTube (or elsewhere) and linking it?

#8912 5 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

Is there a way to post a video without uploading to YouTube (or elsewhere) and linking it?

No. Only images/gifs can be directly posted.

#8913 5 months ago
Quoted from ectobar:

No. Only images/gifs can be directly posted.

thank you.

i got the mezel mods and the Vengeance interactive mod from Beatmaster and wanted to upload a video.

The Mezel Mods are:

Warp Ramp Light Diffuser - kind of took some bending and fitting. Actually had to take the piece off (the screws were a PITA to get to) and bend it so it would fit without hitting the ramp. It was the most cumbersome of the mods I did, but still only took 10-15 minutes. And it's worth it! Really makes the light look great in the flasher emblem. @mezelmods maybe trim the bottom of the back piece a bit so it doesn't hit the ramp. I had to bend the emblem brackets which added considerable time and was the only frustration.

"Beam me up" tubes for the alarm lights - Really great effect. Takes 5 seconds to put on. WELL WORTH IT!

Explosion under the Vengeance mod - GREAT LOOKING MOD! To run the wires I disconnected it and ran it UP THROUGH the playfield instead of down. Much easier. Then it's just connect and go. IT IS SUPER BRIGHT! Too bright honestly. I'm hoping there is a way to dim it or something. Not sure I can keep it with as bright as it is now, but man it REALLY looks great!!! ( I also added the spring decal for the complete pacakage)

Beatmaster interactive Vengeance mod - WOW! just WOW! Amazing! And super simple. Very easy and the effect is out of this world. It looks like it should have been included on the Premium/LE models. it's great. I went with the red one for effect and it's perfect. Only suggestion would be to get some black to cover up the spaces between the front piece and the rest of the Vengeance. I put black electric tape on it and it worked perfectly.

Cannot say enough about these mods. And, just for full disclosure I'm kind of a beginner with modding like this. Stickers, decals and add ons I'm great with. When it comes to messing with wires I'm very new. These instructions were pretty clear and once you find the flasher wire it's plug and play simple.

I'm going to try my hand at uploaded videos so everyone can see.

#8914 5 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

I'm going to try my hand at uploaded videos so everyone can see.

This isn't too hard these days. If you have any issues feel free to reach out. I'm sure myself or someone else on here could help you out.

#8915 5 months ago

I gave up on modding the Playmates Enterprise and went with this (10 inch version) for a topper:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/519734375/star-trek-starfleet-command-united
I figure I can add a motion sensor plug later on so it lights up if someone walks close by.

2AE40749-3714-4D18-8A5E-C63C72B8E945 (resized).jpeg

#8916 5 months ago
Quoted from sebgrinke:

I gave up on modding the Playmates Enterprise and went with this (10 inch version) for a topper:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/519734375/star-trek-starfleet-command-united
I figure I can add a motion sensor plug later on so it lights up if someone walks close by.
[quoted image]

It looks really great man. I would leave it lit up all the time.

#8917 5 months ago

Hey fellow Trekkies! I recently picked up a Star Trek Pro at a great price and was wondering about a couple of things. First off, anyone have a lead on this replacement plastic circled in green? I'm sure it's frequently broken so I figured I would ask if anyone had a line on one without buying a whole plastic set or if anyone did a repro by any chance. I could deal with broken, but since mine is missing completely I'm looking to pick one up. Also, my ramps are all playable, but they have the typical cracking at the entrances. Anyone have a line on any Pro ramps by any chance without breaking the bank? Any help appreciated, thanks!

123767440_10221137746466246_2601980079004930331_o (resized).jpgstpro (resized).JPG

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#8918 5 months ago

Signing in at your service

Finally in the club... Got my S.T PRO yesterday.

reg
Matt

#8919 5 months ago

I'd anyone has experience hooking up/connecting led strips to the g.i. lights I would very much like to learn how.

STPRO has the light sockets for everything and I don't know where I would attach a gator clip.

Looking at adding a trough light and a shooter rod strip light.

Thank you trekkies!

#8920 5 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

I'd anyone has experience hooking up/connecting led strips to the g.i. lights I would very much like to learn how.
STPRO has the light sockets for everything and I don't know where I would attach a gator clip.
Looking at adding a trough light and a shooter rod strip light.
Thank you trekkies!

On a gi socket you should be able to peel off a bit of heat shrink (if it's there) and just clip on next to the solder point.

#8921 5 months ago

Thanks! When I get it I'll try that.

#8922 5 months ago

Ok guys ... My optos are going nuts again.

The coils won't test.

But the optos are just flipping out. All of them. Thought I had it fixed but tonight they went bonkers again. It won't even start now and when I test the switches all the optos will go nuts.

But the main one is the center target. It won't even respond. The others ones click on and off with the slightest vibration. The center one isn't registering again.

I can't have a game that is like this. And I just got it a couple weeks ago.

What is a good, solid, going to last, solution?

#8923 5 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

Ok guys ... My optos are going nuts again.
The coils won't test.
But the optos are just flipping out. All of them. Thought I had it fixed but tonight they went bonkers again. It won't even start now and when I test the switches all the optos will go nuts.
But the main one is the center target. It won't even respond. The others ones click on and off with the slightest vibration. The center one isn't registering again.
I can't have a game that is like this. And I just got it a couple weeks ago.
What is a good, solid, going to last, solution?

First thing you need to do is make sure you didn't create a short somewhere with the mods you added. I would start by disconnecting anything not stock. Check the optos and opto boards out closely for shorts, bad solder joints, loose connectors, etc. Then trace the opto board connections up to the main boards and make sure nothing looks fishy there. For the ones that are activating with slight vibration, make sure that the optos themselves are tight and not flopping around, and there is nothing near them that could be moving into their path. If the center one isn't responding at all, and the connections/solder, etc are good, you may have to replace that one. Thankfully they are cheap and easy to replace. There's an off hand chance one bad one could be making the others act funky. Optos can be strange. I had one go bad that would activate when I touched a nearby ramp with my finger. Crazy stuff.

For "coils won't test", are you remembering to pull out your interlock switch? Coils will not fire with the coin door open unless the switch is pulled.

Good luck!

#8924 5 months ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

For "coils won't test", are you remembering to pull out your interlock switch? Coils will not fire with the coin door open unless the switch is pulled.
Good luck!

uuuhhh...... the what where now? hahaha sorry. I have done the test before with the door open. But I don't remember a switch. Could you point me in the right direction please?

And I went through as well as I know how and checked all connections on the optos and their mounting and everything. I can't see anything that is wrong or disconnected. I played it for a couple days after adding the mods though.... so not sure if that is involved or not. Regardless, I did check as best I know how.

I'm taking it to my guy tomorrow to have him give it a once over and fix it. All I do is put band aids on it. LOL

#8925 5 months ago

ok did a quick search and didn't come up with much.

Who's got UV in this game? I want to see it. Comet doesn't have a huge selection and warns against it not really being bright enough. They suggest the strips.

Not against it. Just want to know and see what people have done. I've got some good ideas of what I want to do. I do NOT want purple bulbs as it washes out too much. I'm not really looking for dark blue either for the same reasons.

UV/Blacklight is much lighter and adds great effects if done correctly. So I just wanted to see what everyone has.

Thanks Trekkies!

#8926 5 months ago

Strongly suggest sticking to some form of white bulbs for GI. Cool (natural i think they call it now) white, frosted 2SMD if you really want to swap them out is what I would go with. Color in the GI reduces visibility in most cases.

#8927 5 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

UV/Blacklight is much lighter and adds great effects if done correctly. So I just wanted to see what everyone has.
Thanks Trekkies!

I would be interested as well. I was considering adding a 'poor man pinstadium' UV ledstrip controlled by some game driven electronics, and I would welcome some feedback on whether UV works well on Star Trek. For example I was considering adding sideblade art to enhance the UV effect

#8928 5 months ago

UV LED bulbs for pins are dim to the point of being worthless in my experience. I wouldn't bother.

#8929 5 months ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Strongly suggest sticking to some form of white bulbs for GI. Cool (natural i think they call it now) white, frosted 2SMD if you really want to swap them out is what I would go with. Color in the GI reduces visibility in most cases.

Thinking about putting them in the top lane lights and under the purple plastics on the away team area. Was thinking about putting them as the 2 outside (end) lights on the back board as well.

#8930 5 months ago
Quoted from Aurich:

UV LED bulbs for pins are dim to the point of being worthless in my experience. I wouldn't bother.

I definitely don't want dim.

11
#8931 5 months ago

Finally got an LE banner, will be going up next to my LE, the thing looks awesome!

15870FAB-E594-42AD-920F-6A5F1E5BA74D (resized).jpeg
#8932 5 months ago

On another note, has anyone replaced completely Star Trek Premium GI with pinstadium pinduino driven ledstrip style ?

One of the downside of the integrated GI is that they are too bright during the Klingon sequence. Replacing them with ledstrip would have the benefit of having a better control of the lighting across the playfield, maybe adding some nice effects along the way

#8933 5 months ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Strongly suggest sticking to some form of white bulbs for GI. Cool (natural i think they call it now) white, frosted 2SMD if you really want to swap them out is what I would go with. Color in the GI reduces visibility in most cases.

I’ll offer the counterpoint of getting rid of as much white as possible. All the sling and target whites are harsh and distracting. They’re also not thematic at all.

I recommend pinbulbs.com kit and then adding red/orange under the warp/left ramp to go with the explosion theme in that area.

I also put cyan to match the shield inserts and green to match the lock inserts (still undecided on these but they go well with the Klingon BOP).

Oh and red flasher for the vengeance or get out. The pre multiball pulsing is amazing in red.

This pic is a bit more purple/blue then reality. (EDIT: a lot more purple)
66D837BD-59AE-4A55-8839-F5FBFCF38670 (resized).jpeg

12
#8934 5 months ago
Screenshot_20201107-203511_Facebook.jpg
#8935 5 months ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

I’ll offer the counterpoint of getting rid of as much white as possible. All the sling and target whites are harsh and distracting. They’re also not thematic at all.
I recommend pinbulbs.com kit and then adding red/orange under the warp/left ramp to go with the explosion theme in that area.
I also put cyan to match the shield inserts and green to match the lock inserts (still undecided on these but they go well with the Klingon BOP).
Oh and red flasher for the vengeance or get out. The pre multiball pulsing is amazing in red.
This pic is a bit more purple/blue then reality. (EDIT: a lot more purple)
[quoted image]

The good thing is you can do what you want to your game. Not my style but that's ok. I would have a tough time tracking the ball with that going on.

#8936 5 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

uuuhhh...... the what where now? hahaha sorry. I have done the test before with the door open. But I don't remember a switch. Could you point me in the right direction please?
And I went through as well as I know how and checked all connections on the optos and their mounting and everything. I can't see anything that is wrong or disconnected. I played it for a couple days after adding the mods though.... so not sure if that is involved or not. Regardless, I did check as best I know how.
I'm taking it to my guy tomorrow to have him give it a once over and fix it. All I do is put band aids on it. LOL

Mine is doing the same thing. Can not trace down the error. After putting the playfield back down tonight (hard) now everything is working again. Chasing ghosts is the worst.

#8937 5 months ago

Cool but how do you update a colourdmd? I only own one (my first and only) and the previous owner installed that etc.

#8938 5 months ago
Quoted from J85M:

Cool but how do you update a colourdmd? I only own one (my first and only) and the previous owner installed that etc.

Go to colorDMDs website and look under the FAQs section. Very simple and easy to do, takes about 5 mins total.

#8939 5 months ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

One of the downside of the integrated GI is that they are too bright during the Klingon sequence.

This is exactly why I created my GI_dimmer. Not only can you adjust the GI to any brightness... but it allow for different settings between Klingon Multiball and normal play. There are multiple channels to control various mods including an LED strip for Side art as I did on my personal machine. More detail at:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-stern-star-trek-products

#8940 5 months ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

I’ll offer the counterpoint of getting rid of as much white as possible. All the sling and target whites are harsh and distracting. They’re also not thematic at all.
I recommend pinbulbs.com kit and then adding red/orange under the warp/left ramp to go with the explosion theme in that area.
I also put cyan to match the shield inserts and green to match the lock inserts (still undecided on these but they go well with the Klingon BOP).
Oh and red flasher for the vengeance or get out. The pre multiball pulsing is amazing in red.
This pic is a bit more purple/blue then reality. (EDIT: a lot more purple)
[quoted image]

Can you decide if you want to swap out certain bulbs in that kit? Their picture looks stunning and the uv/purple hue is exactly what i'm looking for. I don't want to replace EVERY. SINGLE. Bulb though. I was only planning on spending about $25 and getting the main ones and adding a trough light. But damn, it looks really good on their site.

I upgraded my vengeance flasher to red but the bulb straight fell out. I'll do it again for sure. The one in there was a tower orange and, while it was ok, the red as much better while it lasted.

I really did how yours looks, even though it does look a little washed out in that pic. You are saying you used the pinballbulbs.com kit though correct? I wasn't looking at spending that $$$ on it, but that picture is pretty damn convincing.

The attached photo is from their website.

pasted_image (resized).png
#8941 5 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

Can you decide if you want to swap out certain bulbs in that kit? Their picture looks stunning and the uv/purple hue is exactly what i'm looking for. I don't want to replace EVERY. SINGLE. Bulb though. I was only planning on spending about $25 and getting the main ones and adding a trough light. But damn, it looks really good on their site.
I upgraded my vengeance flasher to red but the bulb straight fell out. I'll do it again for sure. The one in there was a tower orange and, while it was ok, the red as much better while it lasted.
I really did how yours looks, even though it does look a little washed out in that pic. You are saying you used the pinballbulbs.com kit though correct? I wasn't looking at spending that $$$ on it, but that picture is pretty damn convincing.
The attached photo is from their website. [quoted image]

Ya my pic looks terrible. I took a quick pic before heading to kids practice, clearly need to work on my balance or something.

Theirs is closer to accurate. I started with their kit and then tweeked from there. You’ll be very happy with it, plenty of lights without going over the top (probably where I’m at but I like it).

#8942 5 months ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

Can you decide if you want to swap out certain bulbs in that kit? Their picture looks stunning and the uv/purple hue is exactly what i'm looking for. I don't want to replace EVERY. SINGLE. Bulb though. I was only planning on spending about $25 and getting the main ones and adding a trough light. But damn, it looks really good on their site.
I upgraded my vengeance flasher to red but the bulb straight fell out. I'll do it again for sure. The one in there was a tower orange and, while it was ok, the red as much better while it lasted.
I really did how yours looks, even though it does look a little washed out in that pic. You are saying you used the pinballbulbs.com kit though correct? I wasn't looking at spending that $$$ on it, but that picture is pretty damn convincing.
The attached photo is from their website. [quoted image]

Cool white with some sunlight thrown into add some warmth in areas. I personally like the cool white look to the game makes it feel very clinical like the enterprise looks and feels in the new films. Then again I always use white or sunlight on my games, only places I’ve ever added colour are my war machine flashers on Ironman (Orange & red) to look like he’s firing back at me. White GI for the win.

#8943 5 months ago

I just wanted to give props to the original color on Star Trek and to Randy for letting me touch up a couple of minor issues. It gave me a whole new appreciation of how good the dots are on this pin and the effort that went in to the color. The dots and color really are next level.

#8944 5 months ago

I added some more cable clamps today to protect plastics from the Vengeance. They seem to work pretty well.

Seloky 120 Pcs Black Nylon Screws Plastic R-Type Cable Clamp Clips(6 Sizes) amazon.com link »

58B7774B-2105-4BFD-8793-A57F4A97D389 (resized).jpeg
#8945 5 months ago

Time to go to school and then beat those GC scores, Trekkies! New tutorial video from Buffalo Pinball's McSirTuna. His The Walking Dead (Pro) tutorial gave me a whole new perspective on that game.

#8946 5 months ago
Quoted from J85M:

Cool but how do you update a colourdmd? I only own one (my first and only) and the previous owner installed that etc.

Remove backglass. Remove color dmd and lay on towel, on glass. See what ver you have.
Go here.
https://www.colordmd.com/support_firmware.html
They have video. 5 min job.

#8947 5 months ago

So as soon as I start commenting on lighting I get my own lighting issue.

When I first picked up the game the blue on the L ramp rgb was out so I replaced it with a rgb board from PBL

https://www.pinballlife.com/rgb-pcb-led-replacement-board.html

Its been all good for a couple months until today when I noticed it faintly glowing when it shouldn’t be active. It still gives me all colors during modes but the colors are slightly off and it’s faintly in when it’s shouldn’t be.

I took a look at it and everything looks fine connection wise.

Thoughts? Pic is from a lamp test, it’s on when testing all lamps

84CC2C98-AEBA-4FBE-A63B-B42DC07CA77C (resized).jpeg
#8948 5 months ago

Has anyone replaced all the Factory rubbers with Titan/perfect play/superbands? If so have you gone with coloured to match up the games art or stuck with black?

#8949 5 months ago

I went with mainly blue but a couple of red. I swapped my sling posts to blue and went with Chrome flippers. I use Pinball Life for everything I also did color flashers and it looks great.

6D029E58-03CF-4E91-B254-0CB8C0CC438E (resized).jpeg8276B80B-1361-49D5-98B2-46ED9215D5DF (resized).jpeg

#8950 5 months ago
Quoted from Darscot:

I also did color flashers and it looks great.
[quoted image][quoted image]

The color (white) flasher at the right and left slings? What color did you use?

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