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(Topic ID: 57136)

Star Trek Club.... Members Only!


By Jean-Luc-Picard

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8,879 posts
  • 722 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by cpr9999
  • Topic is favorited by 318 Pinsiders

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There are 8879 posts in this topic. You are on page 177 of 178.
#8801 21 days ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Back with another code question. What do the T-R-E-K inserts in the outlanes do when all lit up?

Increase the spinner value.

#8802 21 days ago
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:

Recommendations as to method? Fine sandpaper or the like? Thanks kindly...

I wouldn't. At worst; I'd use some ME_Foam?tag=pinsidecom05-20" target="_blank">amazon.com link » and some simply green.
At best; maybe just some novus 2 as suggested by d-gottlieb ... all depends how deep the inground dirt is.

#8803 21 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I wouldn't. At worst; I'd use some ME_Foam?tag=pinsidecom05-20" target="_blank">amazon.com link » and some simply green.
At best; maybe just some novus 2 as suggested by d-gottlieb ... all depends how deep the inground dirt is.

Thanks kindly, both! Am on it...

#8804 21 days ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Back with another code question. What do the T-R-E-K inserts in the outlanes do when all lit up?

I think it increases the spinner scoring.

#8805 20 days ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

I'm a little late to the Stern Star Trek (pro) ownership game but better late then never. But I need the Pinside crews help.
I bought a Pro that had seen some routed time. At some point the R gate (52) was removed, I didn't realize this until I started playing it, it really isn't an obvious game play loss. I found the empty molex and it is working (plugging it into the Vengeance (53) fires the vengeance). So now I have to track a R gate assembly down.
The good people at Pinballlife are going to ask stern for one but they note that this is hit or miss. In the event they don't find one I guess I have a couple options. First does anyone have a Stern Star Trek they are parting out that I can buy the gate from? Second the R gate appears to be a fairly generic stern rail gate, whats the consensus here about using the R gate from Spiderman or BKSOR (they appear to be exactly the same, BKSOR has a extra removable bracket)?
Incidentally the coil on the L gate (51) is out as well. Again the power to the gate is live but the coil appears to be out, insulation fried to the copper. The L gate is more rare because of its bracket. In the spirit of the fixes noted in the discussion after the post above I have a new coil for it coming so I think that will work.
Thanks everyone, I'm waaaayyyy new at this but the pinball bug has invigorated some Mech Engineering I haven't done in 23 years. Only wishing I had paid more attention to my EE classes...[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Posting an update on my Stern Star Trek Pro for posterity so that if someone comes across some of the issues I've had in the future they can find it on a search. Side note, I find Pinside to be a bit like that old Dane Cook joke that if you search A:F6 someone will have posted about it on here.

I was able to get the L gate functioning by replacing the coil with the Stern Relay Coil 090-5060-01-ND (non-diode) from Pinballlife. Disassembling the gate is easy after dremeling the rebound pin to remove it. Then just solder in the new coil and you're gtg. If you ever have to replace the L gate and don't want to solder don't toss the L gate bracket as that's what makes it unique for star trek. Otherwise I think you could use any stern L gate and just replace the brackets.

I highly recommend the QuadHands helping hands from Amazon for soldering. Nice heavy base if you need it for your workbench but also the arms are magnetic and long so you can attach them to your pin with the playfield up to solder under the pin.

Pinballlife was able to get the R gate for me for $55 (don't hold them to that price forever). I do actually think that any R gate from other machines could be used for the Star Trek R gate. It has a standard rail mount bracket which looking through build manuals seems to be pretty standard for orbit gates for several machines, some of them just have different extra brackets attached but the rail mount is the standard starting point. In fact whoever provides stern with gates industrially engineered the gates to be reversible by just flipping the gate, rebound pin and clevis pin. The holes are already manufactured in the metal brackets so you can always go L to R or R to L if needed. The gate from PBL does come with wiring so don't waste several days trying to find a local source for Molex connectors and tinned 18 g wiring (marine boat equipment store if you're wondering) like I did.

The Vengeance kickback wasn't working but interesting I would test with the Ohmmeter and get an occasional connection. Turns out the wire was broken as it passed through the soldering base so when I would put pressure to test with the meter I would sometimes get a tone. Easy to solder this, just hard to get to because of some poor playfield plastic protector screw locations at the L ramp.

I had one RBG which had a non-functioning blue LED, easy to solder and cheap part to replace.

I used a spherical adhesive bumper pad, the kind you see on the back of framed pictures, at the lowest pop bumper to prevent ball hangups. Haven't had a hangup since and it's really the best option I could think of in comparison to some of the other fixes on the pop bumper fix forum.

I highly recommend the velcro fix for the warp ramp (I still suck at it) and also recommend changing the right 2 enterprise inserts with the Red Stern Spike LED from Cointaker. They really bring those two inserts up to the same level as the others and make combo shots more visible.

I'm also several mods in. Shaker motor and blue flipper button LEDs from Pinballlife, flipper covers and coin door cover from Cointaker, sling covers from Pinbits, I printed Aurich's rule cards, have some Cliffys coming, and have a bird of prey and enterprise coming. That's almost it for awhile as the wife is getting suspicious with all the packages coming to the house.

Finally, I vote for Red LEDs for the Vengeance flasher. When that flasher starts pulsing red before the multiball I know shits about to go down.

GateCoil (resized).JPGRedVengeance (resized).jpgRedLEDinserts (resized).jpgSphericalBumper (resized).jpgKickback (resized).jpg
#8806 20 days ago
Quoted from TrekTobbyGermany:

You don't need to remove all that parts. The wooden rail is just fixed with some wood screws from below the playfield. Look for these screws (you removed one already) along the rail and it will loosen easily. The rail is long!

Okay, NOW I know why I can't get that right rail off... That last wood screw, the one that I would use to secure the right Cliffy protector is snapped.

screw in question on left, another interact screw from the rail on the tight.

The remainder of the snapped screw is still securing the right rail, deeply embedded... That being said, I'm guessing there's no way to remove it, yes?

#8807 20 days ago

Just joined the club with a Star Trek pro.
Looking at pinblades, particularly the ones from Tilt.
Does anyone have photos of different pin blades installed. Really hard to tell how they look without seeing them in the cabinet.

#8808 20 days ago
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:

Okay, NOW I know why I can't get that right rail off... That last wood screw, the one that I would use to secure the right Cliffy protector is snapped.
[quoted image]
The remainder of the snapped screw is still securing the right rail, deeply embedded... That being said, I'm guessing there's no way to remove it, yes?

Google how to remove a damaged screw with no head. They make special drill bits for this sort of thing your local hardware store likely sells and there are several video tutorials on this. Good luck!

#8809 19 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

I think it increases the spinner scoring.

One of my favorite aspects of the game! Most fun I've had with the in and out lanes since Whitewater. It was fun figuring out what was going on, I didn't read the rules until I had figured out all I could on my own. It's so great ripping the spinner when it's maxed out, especially when scoring is doubled! I even added a dab of Super Lube on the spinner pivots. I've seen spinner rips go over 4 million!

*** SPOILER ALERT *** in case anyone is still figuring it out, read no further if you don't want the details!

The spinner starts the game at 2,000 points. Completing T-R-E-K adds 10,000 points to the value of the spinner, up to a maximum of 68,000. (Odd choice of max, or is there some significance to the number I'm missing? Homage to Motorola 68000 microprocessors perhaps?)

When a ball ends, assuming another ball is beginning, the spinner reverts to its previous value at the beginning of the last ball plus 2,000 for each T-R-E-K you completed on the previous ball, up to a maximum of I believe 20,000.

Example: spinner starts at 2,000
T-R-E-K makes it 12,000
T-R-E-K makes it 22,000
Ball ends
Ball 2, spinner starts at 2,000 + (2 x 2,000) = 6,000
T-R-E-K makes it 16,000
and so forth

Again, it never starts higher than 20,000 and never goes higher than 68,000.

Too bad the permanent doubling of the left loop for completing Nero I,II,III doesn't include the spinner!

Does anyone know whether you get anything for completing T-R-E-K when the spinner is maxed out?

#8810 19 days ago
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:

Okay, NOW I know why I can't get that right rail off... That last wood screw, the one that I would use to secure the right Cliffy protector is snapped.
[quoted image]
The remainder of the snapped screw is still securing the right rail, deeply embedded... That being said, I'm guessing there's no way to remove it, yes?

Oh, I'm sorry man. That's frustrating. But there is always a way, even if it is not easy... You could try to remove enough from broken screw by a metal drill. If you can lift the rail, you can remove the defective screw with pliers.
If that is not possible, I would suggest to buy a new wooden rail. If you have that, you can saw the old one in part as long as you can reach the screw. But rememer: be careful with the playfield, all other parts are quite easy to exchange and not so expensive... Good luck!

#8811 19 days ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

*** SPOILER ALERT *** in case anyone is still figuring it out, read no further if you don't want the details!

This is one of my favorite parts about pinball. Learning obscure rules that are a big advantage to scoring better.

#8812 18 days ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Increase the spinner value.

This is a really dumb question but how does one light the inserts? I understand the rollover switch will light the insert but during play I seem to have some difficulty moving the lit insert (is it right flipper, left flipper, or both?). And does the lit insert cycle through the pop lanes too or are those separate (i.e. outlane, inlane, pop lanes, inlane, outlane)? I know this seems ridiculous but even when I think I got the rollover the TREK lights don't seem to consistently light.

#8813 18 days ago

Never hurts to ask. Anyone close to Louisville KY (within 300 miles) want to sell me their ST Pro.

#8814 18 days ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

This is a really dumb question but how does one light the inserts? I understand the rollover switch will light the insert but during play I seem to have some difficulty moving the lit insert (is it right flipper, left flipper, or both?). And does the lit insert cycle through the pop lanes too or are those separate (i.e. outlane, inlane, pop lanes, inlane, outlane)? I know this seems ridiculous but even when I think I got the rollover the TREK lights don't seem to consistently light.

Either flipper will make the lights move. They move in the direction of the flipper you press. Both the lit TREK lanes and the pop lanes will move with each flip.
On ST (and most games), you want to have the ball roll over an unlit switch. In ST there is one exception to this. The Away Team mission of PD lights the pop lanes. In this mode only, you want to have the ball roll over the lit lane.

#8815 18 days ago
Quoted from ectobar:

Either flipper will make the lights move. They move in the direction of the flipper you press. Both the lit TREK lanes and the pop lanes will move with each flip.
On ST (and most games), you want to have the ball roll over an unlit switch. In ST there is one exception to this. The Away Team mission of PD lights the pop lanes. In this mode only, you want to have the ball roll over the lit lane.

I honestly think that this whole time I've been trying to move the light to light the lane with the ball moving down the lane... doh!! I had never paid attention/realized that before. Total newb.

thanks

#8816 17 days ago

Unending thanks to Zitt for the lit D4. Looks amazing, pix don't do it justice...

20201001_205049 (resized).jpg

As to the shooter lane, Novus2 got me about 40% of the way there; simple green arrives Saturday. Then to tackle the right rail issue... Thanks all!

20201001_205117 (resized).jpg

#8817 17 days ago
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:

Unending thanks to Zitt for the lit D4. Looks amazing, pix don't do it justice...

Glad to see you had no apparent issues.
Also happy to see you have the Warp Ramp LED installed

When you get a chance; the KBOP bracket is designed to use zip ties near the bottom to keep that wiring in check. You could also use clear heatshrink if you want the "not visible" install. The wires should fit in the little channel designed into the 3D printed bracket.

Did you order the Nebula mod? or am I remembering a different customer?

#8818 16 days ago

How do I join a club on Pinside? Is it just posting to the forum? Asking for a friend.

#8819 16 days ago
Quoted from Shijuro:

How do I join a club on Pinside? Is it just posting to the forum? Asking for a friend.

Send me a latinum bar and I'll process your application

#8820 16 days ago
Quoted from Shijuro:

How do I join a club on Pinside? Is it just posting to the forum? Asking for a friend.

For this club, all you need is to own a Star Trek pinball machine... which according to your collection means, you're in!

#8821 16 days ago
Quoted from DaveH:

For this club, all you need is to own a Star Trek pinball machine... which according to your collection means, you're in!

Or formerly own one and still love the game, because they never officially kick you out.

#8822 16 days ago

You’re going to have to get yourself an official uniform, though.

#8823 16 days ago

Secret handshake is taught at the three month mark.

#8824 15 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Glad to see you had no apparent issues.
Also happy to see you have the Warp Ramp LED installed
When you get a chance; the KBOP bracket is designed to use zip ties near the bottom to keep that wiring in check. You could also use clear heatshrink if you want the "not visible" install. The wires should fit in the little channel designed into the 3D printed bracket.
Did you order the Nebula mod? or am I remembering a different customer?

Cheers! Thanks kindly; shall so modify... Really appreciate the tips!

(And yep, that's me... That's for a bit down the road when I have the time...)

#8825 12 days ago

How many volts should this mod have?

DSC_0011 (resized).JPG
#8826 12 days ago

Question: has anyone here ever run into the problem of the spinner consistently diverting the ball directly into the drain, on Stern ST?

#8827 12 days ago

I finally have my Stern Star Trek Pro shopped and set up! Is there supposed to be a post in front of the bottom most pop bumper? I've gotten a couple ball hangs there and noticed there's a hole in front of it.

20201006_211803 (resized).jpg
#8828 12 days ago

That hole is for a simple screw, no post. The idea is that it stops the ball hang.

#8829 12 days ago
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:

Question: has anyone here ever run into the problem of the spinner consistently diverting the ball directly into the drain, on Stern ST?

Check that the standup target at the end of the rail isn't deflecting the ball.

#8830 12 days ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

That hole is for a simple screw, no post. The idea is that it stops the ball hang.

Thanks! I saw the post above mentioning a rubber bumper as well, so maybe I'll try that first. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything major.

#8831 12 days ago
Quoted from atrainn:

Thanks! I saw the post above mentioning a rubber bumper as well, so maybe I'll try that first. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything major.

I put a adhesive dome (like the kind on the back of properly framed pictures) in that spot. Haven't had any hangups since.

#8832 12 days ago
Quoted from Olaa:

How many volts should this mod have?
[quoted image]

Doesn't look like my mod; so I'm guessing by the looks of the bracket it's a MezelMods.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/573505333770251571/?nic_v2=1a2JkTGMo
So; I'm guessing 6.3VDC?
Contact them if you're sure it's their ship.

#8833 11 days ago
Quoted from atrainn:

I finally have my Stern Star Trek Pro shopped and set up! Is there supposed to be a post in front of the bottom most pop bumper? I've gotten a couple ball hangs there and noticed there's a hole in front of it.[quoted image]

yes there is a screw with a washer still got hung up there every so often, however I added 1 more washer seemed to improve ball hangs. I also adjusted my pop bumper sensitivity (adjusted the swtich under the PF) to fire with a littler touch to improve it being static, that pop bumper would not fire often esp... with the little contact area vs the other 2 bumpers.

see pic
STLE screw pop bumpers 1 (resized).jpg

#8834 11 days ago

Anyone ever gotten one of these from him? Just wondering how it looks.

ebay.com link

#8835 11 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Anyone ever gotten one of these from him? Just wondering how it looks.
ebay.com link

I've not seen his translites in person, but I've purchased some waterslides from him before and I wasn't very impressed with the color or print quality. I just threw them out and never used them.

#8836 11 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

I've not seen his translites in person, but I've purchased some waterslides from him before and I wasn't very impressed with the color or print quality. I just threw them out and never used them.

ooooof that’s a bummer

#8837 11 days ago
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:

Question: has anyone here ever run into the problem of the spinner consistently diverting the ball directly into the drain, on Stern ST?

Like d-gottlieb said, it's probably the stand-up not the spinner. My stand-up leans to the right, so it pushes the ball toward the center or the right flipper. A well-timed tap on the left side pushes the ball away from the rail and the ball will miss the stand-up target.

#8838 10 days ago

Holding the left button in before hitting start will set up competition mode? What is competition mode, like no extra balls and stuff?

#8839 6 days ago

Ugh, sorry to be so needy, but if the opportunity presents itself, might I ask if somebody could attach pics of the upper left region of their playfield (areas pictured below, by the Alpha ramp).
20201012_173356 (resized).jpg
20201012_173408 (resized).jpg

This is basically the last of the playfield corrections to this machine (want to replace the alpha ramp decal with one that's absent rubber dust, get rid of the black duct tape, install the Cliffy's, and replace the cracked plastics), but I'm having a hard time figuring out how some of the plastics (46 & 59) are supposed to orient.

(Pretty sure 46 isn't supposed to tuck underneath the ramp as it currently is, but I'm not certain what some of the holes are supposed to align to.)

#8840 6 days ago
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:

Ugh, sorry to be so needy, but if the opportunity presents itself, might I ask if somebody could attach pics of the upper left region of their playfield (areas pictured below, by the Alpha ramp).
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
This is basically the last of the playfield corrections to this machine (want to replace the alpha ramp decal with one that's absent rubber dust, get rid of the black duct tape, install the Cliffy's, and replace the cracked plastics), but I'm having a hard time figuring out how some of the plastics (46 & 59) are supposed to orient.
(Pretty sure 46 isn't supposed to tuck underneath the ramp as it currently is, but I'm not certain what some of the holes are supposed to align to.)

20201012_184555 (resized).jpg20201012_184658 (resized).jpg20201012_184704 (resized).jpg
Hope these help, there off a premium but I think there same on pro. Let me know if need anymore pics.

#8841 6 days ago
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:

Ugh, sorry to be so needy, but if the opportunity presents itself, might I ask if somebody could attach pics of the upper left region of their playfield (areas pictured below, by the Alpha ramp).
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
This is basically the last of the playfield corrections to this machine (want to replace the alpha ramp decal with one that's absent rubber dust, get rid of the black duct tape, install the Cliffy's, and replace the cracked plastics), but I'm having a hard time figuring out how some of the plastics (46 & 59) are supposed to orient.
(Pretty sure 46 isn't supposed to tuck underneath the ramp as it currently is, but I'm not certain what some of the holes are supposed to align to.)

Also double check with Cliff but from what I understood from him is that Stern basically took his design and put that on the ramps so I'm not sure his ramp design does much more beyond what you have. It's a bummer for him because his designs are pretty genius.

#8842 6 days ago

^^^ but you still need Warp Ramp Cliffy's trust me...

#8843 6 days ago

Thanks for pics, phbooms, and for the advice, dtrimberger and camcamaro1991!

Yep, warp ramp Cliffy's already on. The only Cliffy's not yet installed are the alpha ramp, and the right shooter lane (because of that ****ing snapped screw, which is on my downstream to do list, cheers!)

This machine has come a very, very long way since it left Modern Pinball NYC.

#8844 5 days ago
Quoted from camcamaro1991:

^^^ but you still need Warp Ramp Cliffy's trust me...

Are you able to show, describe the difference between Cliffys and the protectors that Stern sets them up with?

Thanks

#8845 5 days ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

Are you able to show, describe the difference between Cliffys and the protectors that Stern sets them up with?
Thanks

There is no Stern style/version of Cliffy's on the warp ramp, there is a single metal band to help but both top plastics are exposed.

here is a quick pic of the Cliffy's Warp Ramp protectors, here more pics from him.... http://www.passionforpinball.com/STStarTrek.htm

Email Cliffy
crinear@comcast.net or crinear@gmail.com

I do recommend the entire 2 sets, playfield kit and ramp's kit

Cliffy's Warp Ramp (resized).jpg

#8846 5 days ago

Just played today first time I’ve come on this but I did an away team shot and it said supper ramps is quailed but it also must have been the last shot timer so it just sent me into the pick a mission routine. Must be a bug because if super ramps were qualified that would have added time etc.

#8847 5 days ago
Quoted from camcamaro1991:

There is no Stern style/version of Cliffy's on the warp ramp, there is a single metal band to help but both top plastics are exposed.
here is a quick pic of the Cliffy's Warp Ramp protectors, here more pics from him.... http://www.passionforpinball.com/STStarTrek.htm
Email Cliffy
crinear@comcast.net or crinear@gmail.com
I do recommend the entire 2 sets, playfield kit and ramp's kit
[quoted image]

Ahh, now I see that there is a flange that goes over the top of the ramp. That makes more sense. Damn, the playfield Cliffy's arrive at my house today. I shoulda just got those ramp protectors while I was at it but having just acquired the game didn't appreciate the upgrade.

thanks

#8848 5 days ago

Quick question I have a STTNG and I converted everything to LED and now some of the lights don't work correctly. I searched and realized I can't really do this on the machine and was wondering if installing an LED OCD Board and GI OCD board will correct the issue. if not what is the best solution to keep a full LED conversion and have lights work properly? Thanks!

#8849 5 days ago
Quoted from M1Cha3l:

Quick question I have a STTNG and I converted everything to LED and now some of the lights don't work correctly. I searched and realized I can't really do this on the machine and was wondering if installing an LED OCD Board and GI OCD board will correct the issue. if not what is the best solution to keep a full LED conversion and have lights work properly? Thanks!

It works perfectly. I have both boards in my STTNG.

#8850 5 days ago
Quoted from rai:

Must be a bug because if super ramps were qualified that would have added time etc.

No it wouldn't. Super ramps are independent of modes. Sounds normal to me.

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