Just looking to post this to the group - looking for a few others mods instead of this speaker panel....Anyone got something to trade?

SOLD!

Parts - For Trade

Stainless Steel Speakerpanel Star Trek - never installed Archived

New (selling multiple, business) - “OK - I got a stainless steel Star Trek Speaker Panel listed here on pinside from - kapsreiter - he charges $150 to $175 to have them shipped and that does not come with the light t...”

2020-07-24

Seattle, WA

wamonkey

Trade

Archived after: 2 days

Viewed: 75 times

Status: Sold (amount undisclosed)

Contributed to Pinside

Did you get some "Promium" armor or are you planning on just repowdercoating the existing stock product.
I ask because I recently acquired some Promium" armor from Pinball.Center for exactly these type of projects.
Promium Armor for Star Trek Pro

Zitt..... Im going with the stock armor. Im kinda weird about adding lollipop type rail where they did not exist before. It always make me wonder if there was wear underneath. They are really cool though.

Just put my chrome tmolding on today. Then you run a 600 grit sand sponge over it 4/5 times in the same direction and it looks just like stainless steel. Can’t wait till my stainless speaker panel gets here.

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Those would be awesome if the proportions were better between the nacelles and the saucer. They should have shrunk the whole thing a bit if they ran out of room rather than give it a teeny tiny saucer.

FYI...you can buy the real thing from Marco...but they are very expensive.

Just using the stock armor. It all went in today and should be done in two weeks.

A nice silver tone will due just fine.

No, it's not a small saucer, they're bigger nacelles!

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I recently noticed one of my inserts will not produce the color red. I contacted stern on their website but had no response. Is this something I can fix myself? Purchased second hand.

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Those little boards have 4 wires. 1 for ground and 1 for each or R/G/B. Double check that the wire hasn't pulled away before paying for a new one.

Here's a quick summary of issues fixed for me by WeFixPins (Seattle) on a Star Trek Premium, in case another new owner searches for them online:

Shooter Lane Switch 23 Out of Service: The diode for this switch (which is not on the switch itself but nearby) was soldered the wrong way around (?!)
Vengeance Unable to Close: The opto (optical switch) was misaligned and couldn't detect that it had closed
VUK not firing ball into rail as expected : A wire had come off the coil for the VUK diverter (this is the metal piece that rotates so the ball can fire up).
VUK fires ball up vertically but it doesn't go far enough to land in rail as expected: Increased Left Eject power in the menu settings

Now that it's working - what an awesome game!

One more - the right flipper started buzzing yesterday. I adjusted the level of the playfield by lifting at the back and turning the screws at the bottom of the legs until the level bubble was centered. That fixed the buzzing.

Stern should really add all this to the manuals.

That fix had to be coincidence. Flipper buzz is pretty common, especially on Sterns, and can usually be minimized by tightening the coil stops. Leveling the machine wouldn't have anything to do with it. It's a very sporadic, hit-or-miss quirk in these machines, so if it changed when changing the slope, it was just luck.

Also...don't trust the bubble. They are rarely, if ever, correct. Use an actual angle finder or digital level directly on the playfield if you want to make sure it's set up correctly. Some care about the 6.5-7 deg recommendation as designed...some adjust to taste and go by how it plays.

Ahh! Thanks. And I also worry about over sensitive pops machine gunning. I blew an IC chip that way once.
Thanks!

Thanks! How do I tighten a coil stop? Tighten the screws at the top of it?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers#post-284670

That said; Stern used some crappy coil stops during the non-vault runs of Star trek. They barely lasted 200-400 games.
If you take the coil stop out; it will probably be brass... and would need to be replaced. See the afore mentioned thread for details on that process.

You were correct the buzzing is intermittent. There are of course two right flippers so I guess it could be either one.

Can the coil stops be tightened without removing the flipper assembly? From the link you sent it looks like I need to tighten something on the coil itself with an allen wrench (allen key?)? It's hard to see in the image.

Also the part of the backglass that you take out to get to the fuses seems to wobble and make a noise if the machine or floor vibrate. Did I miss some way of locking it in place? (I slotted it back in and turned the key, and I see why it wobbles, but I don't remember it doing that before.)

Thanks for the advice!

Take a look at Page B12 in the manual. There's a good diagram of the assembly. It's the screws holding part No. 6 that may be loose. That part wears quickly and may need to be replaced. Vid's example used an allen key screw, ST looks to use a regular 3/8" machine screw, if the original hardware is still in place.

Thanks that makes sense. Here's the link to the Pro manual you're referencing in case anyone else needs it (the Premium manual I have is different):
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Star-Trek-Pro-Manual.pdf

I have a stern Star Trek pro. I noticed a screw with a rubber around it up by the bottom pop bumper. Is this factory?

It was just screwed into the wood looks like it’s suppose to stop balls from getting stuck but I’m still having that issue. I removed it and balls still get stuck.

Any advice?

Yes it is there to prevent stuck balls.

Any hints on adjustments to make it work? Ball gets stuck with and without it.

Mine has a small rubber under the screw. Could someone post what theirs looks like?

Thanks

Just back the screw out enough so the ball doesn't rest there. I had to adjust mine quite a bit. I don't recall a rubber under the screw head though.

This screw under the wire? (This is a Premium so might be different.)

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Yea mine has a small post rubber on it. I’ve tried taking it off no luck it still gets stuck. I’m really confused on how to get it set up right. I’ve tried every variation with no luck. Play field is level and 6.5-7 pitch

Maybe post a photo of yours? The wires might be preventing the ball getting stuck on mine.

(It does get stuck near the top bumper sometimes but nudging the machine gets it moving again.)

I put a small round piece of felt over the top of the screw like you use under a chair leg and I haven’t had a stuck ball since

I wrote about this earlier. My solution was to adjust the lowest position pop to be more sensitive by lowering the spring tension of the spoon switch by adjusting it. The ball will activate the bumper with hardly any momentum and very rarely gets stuck, even without the screw there, which I have removed.

I’m trying to find a 12 volt source to plug my EL tape into. I have a color dmd installed so I am no longer using the power to the original dmd. Does anyone know if that 2 wire connection is 12 volt?

Just got my armor back from powder.

IMO...... I’m blown away how this turned out.

My Promium project is getting closer to being finished. Waiting for my stainless steel speaker panel yet.

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What in the world?!? That's an impressive air ball catch, launched from somewhere around the warp ramp. I thought it was wedged in and was preparing to pull the glass off, but a few ball searches seemed to shake the ball loose. Fortunately it landed in the shooter lane and not the outlane. Still loving this machine.

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Picking up a HUO ST Pro on Thursday! Anything I need to know/check for? This will be my first Stern pin.

A lot of game for the $$$$

Excited I was able to find this discontinued dmd stainless cover. It’s my Pro LE lol now I need to find a way to get 12 volts to light up the color paper. Wondering if I can tap into the dmd power plug now that I am not using it due to a color dmd. Any help would be appreciated

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Not discontinued as I have one on order from the fellow who makes them. Should be here soon. Any 12 volt tap will do.

Has anyone besides me ever thought the amount of bright flashing on ST is over the top? It gets so I cannot see the balls!

Should I look into changing out the LEDs for less bright versions, assuming they exist?

Should I shroud the flashers with something? Insert something semitransparent between the LEDs and their inserts?

I was ready to put incandescents in before I realized the circuit wasn't designed to supply that much current...

The flashers are used during attract mode, I haven't noticed them in play. What causes them to flash in play?

Oh, those flashers...

Just picked up this bad boy! Has the Aurich package. Anything I need to know? This is my first Stern/newer pin.

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Play it and have fun!

Game play is much deeper with the head attached Congrats, enjoy!

Verify the flasher lamp under Vengeance saucer is working, common to have a broken wire where the harness attaches to ship.

Here is a photo of my screw. Sounds like that white rubber isn’t suppose to be there. I’m not sure what a factory game looks like. Is it the same screw or something different in that space

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The screw is not installed with anything on it. Just a bare screw.

He said package.

Speaking of ... I've been getting people asking me about it lately. If I had maybe 4 more I could probably do a little run of them for folks. PM me if you have any interest.

Ouch. Stock Popcaps. Good thing they are about to be retired.

Joined the club today. Bought a HUO Stern Star Trek Pro. Only mod in it is a shaker motor.

Then you have a lot of fun times modding ahead of you.