I only read "playfield swap" then looked at the pics. Made A LOT more sense after I actually read what you wrote. I was like, wtf? Should look great when you're done, good luck!

Looking forward to seeing history being preserved by a great hobbyist. That’s the best part of this pinball hobby to me, keeping games that some of us have played and enjoyed in the past like old muscle cars if the 1960-70’s and getting today’s youth the chance to play them again and find the joy for themselves all over again.

Everything except the electro/mechanical parts have successfully been swapped over. Posts, guide rails, wood frame, metal parts, etc. Will start on the electro/mechanical stuff over the next few days because it will take a LONG time. Gotta go through and take a shitload of pictures and write down every wire color and where they all go. It's gonna suck but it will be worth it at the end. Wish I had whatever that thing is called that you can put the playfield on and flip it over, but I can get by without it for a game as simple as this.

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Rotisserie. Great investment, you'll wonder how you ever worked on a playfield without it. Check out the very affordable one a fellow pinsider is producing:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gauging-interest-in-all-metal-pf-rotisseries-for-18000-shipped

Thanks!

Now is a great time to replace, repair, or just paint the wooden frame rails as well

I know, right? Imagine if you could go to a muscle car show and take any one you want out for a spin!

I know there is a thread on pinside on how to make a rotisserie Plus various YouTube videos. Think all in all it would cost about $30 to make depending on the route you go. But well worth it. Can’t imagine not having one, especially for older EM pins And late 70’s pins that the playfield comes right out of.

I thought about it but I wanted to keep a little bit of the original patina. I can always paint them later quite easily.

Any LE owners that have removed their side rails to see how the LED lights are set up ?

i have a stainless steel speaker panel in stock

if you are interested

150$ shipped

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Has mine shipped bub. If so please send me the tracking #. Thx Allen

Just finished up my warp ramp chaser lights. Works off switch hits from a gate I installed.

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Just flnished my warp ramp chaser for my pro . Has LEDs on BOTH sides of the strip .Works off gate switch hits.
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I just ordered one myself!!!

THXTom

Looking to replace the rubber on my Stern Pro, thinking Titan's silicone ones... (I've already replaced the flippers with their silicone, and I like it).

For those who use non-black-rubber rings, may I ask for some pictures of your setup? Based on some of the pix on Titan's site, I'm leaning towards orange for the slings, but am defaulting to black for everything else, though I'd be curious to see what others have done...

From Titan's site, presumably submitted by Eric S.

I used light blue on my Stern Star Trek...

Note: take masking tape and mark lamp socket function on color wire...
eg. 2x, 4x, 1K , 2K etc., etc, etc.
Use same for pop solenoid wires and switches.

Progressing nicely.

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So I'm basically done with this playfield swap. Waiting to be completely done before I post final pics and whatnot, but I've run into a problem. The machine is 99% working and everything came out fine after the swap. Every switch, every coil, every light, etc. Everything is working great...except for the pop bumpers. I did not de-solder any wires regarding them. Just unscrewed everything and moved it all over to the new playfield. All playfield switches are working and nothing is registering when it's not supposed to be. I painstakingly went through everything and made sure I had no issues. It's just down to this. Check out the video and let me know what you think. It would be appreciated. EDIT: when doing the coil test in the menu, the upper left fires by itself. The lower one fires by itself. When the upper right one fires, it fires the lower one with it. So it's not a switch issue. I also verified in the menu that there are no stuck switches.

Remove the caps from the switches and see if the problem goes away. If so, replace with fresh caps. Sometimes old caps can go bad and create crazy issues.

Will do. Thanks.

So I removed one leg of the capacitor from the lower and the upper right pop bumper. They no longer fire at the same time, but they are still backwards. The lower fires the upper right and vice versa. Again, I did not remove any wiring during the swap, so the wires on the switches/coils aren't backwards and this issue wasn't happening prior to the swap. All the switches are in the same location as they were previously. You can't even really get them backwards or in the wrong spots because the way the harness routes and they length of the wires prevents it. Here's another quick video of what's happening now and what's happening in the test menu.

Question though. Can I just swap the wires on the switches to make this work the way it's supposed to? And how critical are the caps? Aren't they just filter caps? Everything seems to be ok without them.

Without caps you won’t register fast hits on those switches. You should put new caps on.

Are you sure you didn’t somehow swap the switches when you put everything back on?

Another thing to check is the connector in the back box. Is it hooked to the right pins or did you mess up by one? Of course, I think that would affect more than just those two switches.

Like I mentioned above, use tape to mark the wires and assemblies.
If the switch closer matches the switch ID then, the pop bumpers solenoids are backwards.

vec-tor was correct. I had the lower and upper right assemblies swapped. All the wires are orange/(insert stripe color) and when I compared them to my pictures, I couldn't see any of the stripes, so I went with what appeared to be correct. So now the issue of them firing opposite is resolved and they are all working the way they are supposed to be...unless I hookup the capacitor to the upper switch. With that cap connected, the upper right and lower still fire together. If I disconnect it, they fire independently. I already swapped the capacitor with another one from another switch on the board and the problem still remains. Any ideas on that? I can leave the capacitor disconnected and go about my merry way, but I'm a perfectionist and I want to figure this out. Thanks again for everyone's help.

You likely have another bad cap. Just buy some new ones and replace. Even if the old ones are working now, they are ancient and will fail at some point eventually. I have a couple of old Bally’s and at least one of the old caps goes about once or twice a year.

The bad pop bumper cap and swapped assemblies aside, the playfield swap is complete and went without issue. I'll replace all the switch caps at a later date (picking some up from fellow member vec-tor). The machine is fully working now and ready for years of more play. Got the whole project done in roughly 3 days at around 6 hours or so a day. My back is sore, my legs are sore, and my feet are sore from standing and leaning over the pool table all that time, but them's the breaks. Anyway, here are the log of pics. Thanks again for all the help with the pop bumper issue. My fault for swapping the assemblies. All told, I'm surprised that was the only issue.

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SOKATH!!! HIS EYES UNCOVERED!!! Well well done!

Thanks! This was my personal Beast of Tanagra.

I just finished making a plaque for my speaker panel. I bought the entire LE stainless steel speaker panel assembly for my Premium from Marco a while back but never got around to making the plaque to finish it off. I had bought the decal from someone on here a long time ago, which was originally meant for the coin door. Thought it might look good on the speaker panel so I just had to make the steel plate at work and painted it black, threw on the sticker and...wow - I think it came out great!

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I get that CPR wanted to match the plastics to the play field... but imho; those plastics are just too blue as is the background on the PF.
I mean if you were going to go that dark; why not just make the background black?

Is it just me; or a trick of the pictures?

Nah, it’s pretty blue. But it’s a matter of opinion I guess.

Awesome. Looks great!

Zitt,I had the same complaint when I bought the first set of CPR plastics and they did listen back when they made the first run of the playfields and they changed the blue on the next run of the plastics. You can see the difference in my video I made when I got my playfield. I still haven't got around to installing it yet. Wile the blue on my playfield still looks darker than my original it's not as dark as the blue in the first run of the plastics. I noticed this playfield the blue looks darker and they did not paint the back gray like they did mine.

I honestly suspect that someone in the art dept at CPR has some sort of color disability that affects their perception of blue. They chronically f-up blues, like not even in the ballpark of the originals. Not bashing them, just observing a disappointing pattern.

I just don't understand when you have a light blue background that they could make it primary blue.
Originally; Ive heard them say that they account for fading... but the blue in these pictures is really not a fade problem.
I guess I'm ok with it ... but it's not idea.
I'm pretty sure I ordered an original gold PF. I just don't have any immediate need to swap it out as I did a really massive restore a massive center repaint.
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=89593

All cleaned up post-playfield swap and on location at The Arcade in Wichita.

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Those overhead monitors for viewing gameplay on all of those pins are ultra-cool - a very nice touch for on-location playing. That must've been an expensive investment!

Roughly $300 per machine for 32” monitor and camera. We bought them all as refurbished on Amazon. But that still totals $4500. Another $500 or so for the added circuit, outlets, and labor to get it all wired up. Roughly $5000 cost but it was worth it.

Looking good! I really like that venue to play all those classic video games and pinballs in Old Town. This venue was the first time I saw monitors above the games and is a great touch when watching tournament play. I was there during last Halloween for training at Textron, will be sure to go there again and possibly get a chance to play your game once training and travel restrictions go back to normal.

Amazon just delivered my new subwoofer for my Star Trek LE! Now to wait for pinnovator’s Adapter and cable coming tomorrow. We will see how this changes the feel of the game. Already put in flipper fidelity speakers and that was a great improvement over the original stock stern speakers with clarity being #1, especially with the alternate movie soundtrack installed.

I installed pinwoofer’s powered sub and 5 1/4” backbox speakers kit and love it on my Stern JP premium, but wanted to compare the two options out there for the best experience in my small game room. We will see.

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Awesome! I actually do tech support for Beechjets and Premiers for Textron when I’m not fixing games at the business. Just started that back in October. Before that, I was an Avionics Tech On the floor for 19 years.

Promium is coming along fantastic. Waiting for my vengeance mod, stainless speaker panel and EL paper. Also have brushed stainless T molding coming and all the hardware goes off to Powdercoat next week..... Alien Silver.

Nearing the end of beautiful project

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Got a much nicer playfield for my Bally. Almost done shopping it.

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Ha, and I was just thinking I need to stop by The Arcade next time I have a Wichita overnight, usually when I drop a plane off at the Bombardier service center.