I'll be amazed if that has anything to do with the balls. Sounds like something physical. Let us know!

Mine was doing this also. I went into the settings and disabled the magnet then made the locks all virtual, also in settings. Not the best solution but it works.

Just buy carbon steel balls. Ballbaron, for one, sells them. They won’t magnetize in Star Trek.

yes thats what I ordered

Update I dug through my spare parts kit found some carbon balls from titan.

Game is perfect now during multiball I can knock ball off magnet and both roll out instead of sticking up there.

http://www.speakerlightkits.com/Type-9.html

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

doy. i probably ordered 10 of these from you. been a while. order sent. thanks doug.

a have ST DMD panels ins tock

but could only send EMS to USA at the moment.

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My ST premium was having trouble with the magnet letting go of the ball. I read somewhere that baking the balls at around 350F for 20-30 minutes would reduce their magnetism. It does! Magnet lets go of the ball just fine now.

Also, a ball locked temporarily behind the drop target would sometimes release on an odd trajectory (or stdm). I looked closely and noticed that the magnet mylar was a bit torn up. I removed and replaced the magnet mylar. Now it works perfectly.

Hopefully these tips help out someone else with these common ST issues.

Don't use chromium "premium" balls in your game; any you shouldn't have any issues with the ball sticking on the magnet.
I use standard carbon balls and have never had a ball stick on the magnet.

Finally finished installing MezelMods Target Splints. Great Product had to modify the far left target backer other wise they went in super smooth. Well worth the time if you have leaning targets. I used the small size on the 5 red targets next to ramps/orbits.

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TargetTrim.pdf

Update, the new carbon balls have solved the magnet and trough issues. 50 or so plays zero issues.

This is a great product but wouldn't it be better if products were engineered to perform as intended to start with? Somewhere along the line Cost became the #1 engineering priority when it is supposed to be function.

Don't make me shake my cane and tell you to get off my lawn!

100% agree these should not be necessary when a game has 250 plays on it or 2500

Interesting!

Anyone know why my ColorDMD displays this red hue to it instead of solid black? I played with the different settings and can’t get it to display a solid black background. It’s one of the older ColorDMD models that came with the game when I bought it from Pinball Refinery and I’ve updated it to the latest ROM. Thinking about purchasing a new ColorDMD to fix this issue unless anyone has any ideas.
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I had a similar problem; but displaying blue.
It's almost 100% the flexible cable going from the LCD to the ColorDMD board.
If you don't have experience reseating those fragile connectors; consult an expert and/or colordmd tech support.
It's TOTALLY easy to break the connector or loose the connector "lever".

Thank you Zitt, I will try carefully reseating that ribbon cable and report back! Hopefully, that’s all it is. I remember it being solid black in the past.

I carefully reseated both ends of the ribbon cable and now the ColorDMD is nice and black again. I also turned the backlight setting down from 9 to 6 which helped some. Thanks for the help

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yeah; my lvds cable (the cable between dmd board and lcd panel) got tweaked one year coming back from TPF one year.
I haven't had any issue with the cable into the dmd board.
Glad you got it sorted.

its again possible to send to use from europe

u have

1 x ST stainless steel speaker panel
and
some blackout mods in stock

Man I have been lazy about selling this. Full Aurich Translite set $220 usd including shipping to anywhere in US and Canada

I have finally picked up a pin I have been wanting for years. Thank you John! The only thing I want to add that's not done already is Zitts pop bumper mod. I just can't be happier!

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I'll get those pop bumper caps packaged tonight after work and in the mail tomorrow.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-clubmembers-only/page/161

** Scroll to post# 8021 and use the Amazon download link I provided. There is a download option on upper right of screen.

its again possible to send to use from europe
i have
1 x ST stainless steel speaker panel
and
some blackout mods in stock

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Start by focusing on the drop target. It sounds like it is slipping off the edge. The washer fix works. There are alternatives that have more longevity as well like putting a thin sliver from an old credit card behind it.

My guess is that your warp target optos are not quite aligned, and the vibration from the coil is triggering the switch repeatedly.

There's too much going on here. My guess would be some cables came loose when you were moving it. I would start with reseating all the connections on the bottom of the playfield.

To clarify a little more and for future ref:

This is usually a trough problem. The trough connectors always come loose. Find these as you will definitely have to reseat them at some point. If you're feeling crafty, there are better connectors you can get that will solve this.

This is usually the opto board the ramps are plugged into. Follow the wire from the ramp to find the board. Reseating these is step one when warps act up.

As noted there is a washer fix that might help with this, but again, there is connection for this that comes loose and needs reseating as well.

I've had all of those things happen since I've owned it several times. Other common one you will see is the lights acting funny. Reseat the cables for those boards when that happens.

Welcome to the club. Stern ST is a great game, and this is a fun all things Trek club that will usually be able to get you squared away regardless of issue.

On my Premium I noticed now that if I finish a mode, say DTD 1, and I have Vengeance MB ready to go and then drain the ball, I don't have the option of picking a new mode at ball launch. The only way to start a new mode is by shooting the Away Team shot or the scoop. Is this normal?

It is.

In the club!!

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Rubber help?

New to maintenance and my first piece in my machine broke (Star Trek Premium). I'm having trouble deciphering the rubber chart in manual.

The #7 listed on the parts diagram broke, which I thought would correlate to 1.25" rubber. Measuring it makes it seem more like it's a 1.5" rubber (#6)

However, when going to order 1 of every rubber I'm noticing some things don't align. For instance what size is the #8 listed in the manual, its listed on the field but not the chart? Two #9's show up on the playfield but the chart says there should only be 1.... I also don't see the #6 listed on the field, which leads me to think the chart is wrong.

Anyone know the proper sizings of all the rubber rings?

I’m an idiot. I noticed on the ring was stamped 1 1/4. I’ll stick to what’s listed in the manual diagram and ignore the chart.

titan has a nice chart. also I think a game room supplier in Michigan sells whole kits by the machine

Can you point me to one on Titan? I see people have made various kits on Titan but they are all different. I don't want a full kit as I don't need every piece...

This problem is super annoying. I've had to fix it at least three times. The washer fix works for a while, but the credit card fix has lasted. The only drawback is that a hard, direct shot can sometimes bouce off without knocking the target off the ledge.

Yep. I know it. You can try something just slightly thinner than a credit card, and that might work. Like a business card doubled up. It is a fine line between not working and working but getting bricks with hard shots. Keep trying. You’ll find the right thing that works. Ironically, for me, a broken drop target ledge (snapped in half) worked the longest.

I’ve owned Star Trek Pro for 2 years now. I’ve been playing it over FaceTime with a friend who also owns one. And I just learned that I had absolutely NO idea how the medals worked. The whole thing was completely lost on me. They just felt random. He took a bit of time to explain, and explain how Galactic Away Team impacted it. I think my average scores doubled now that I’m concentrating on them. I finally took down the grand champion score (I host a league when there isn’t a pandemic, so it was a good score).

It’s a totally new game to me now. And I love it!

Now what you have to do is time getting the 2x scoring from the warp ramp with the start of Kobayashi Maru MB for double medal bonus. Lots of points there!

Ordered this beach towel to use as a cover . It works.

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Cool! Good thing you didn't get the red one.

Yeah I ain't looking to kill the machine, I just got it.

I love it so simple but works perfectly

I made it to warp 8 in that game. I was trying for that... Next Time!

Any idea if towels or sheets protect against UV and fading? Or would it need to be some sort of blackout/UV cover? Curious as I may need to move some games into a brighter room while we finish some renovations.

Anything is better than nothing. Don't think playfields fade much, being behind glass, unless you're talking direct sunlight. Cab art is what you have to worry about, just throw a tarp over the whole shebang I guess.