(Topic ID: 57136)

Star Trek Club.... Members Only!


By Jean-Luc-Picard

6 years ago



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There are 8534 posts in this topic. You are on page 156 of 171.
#7751 10 months ago

It's easy to check your optos. Just put in switch test and put a screw driver through the red beam. It should show up on the switch test. Optos are like 6 bucks at Pinball Life and opto boards are maybe 20 dollars.

#7752 10 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

It's easy to check your optos. Just put in switch test and put a screw driver through the red beam. It should show up on the switch test. Optos are like 6 bucks at Pinball Life and opto boards are maybe 20 dollars.

The Vengeance opto was a 2 hour repair... by somebody that knew their stuff. I didn't tackle it. Hard to access.

#7753 10 months ago

The first one is easy, the other one is difficult. I had to take out the Warp ramp and the plastics to the right of it are difficult. I think I had to remove a rivet holding two plastics together

#7754 10 months ago
Quoted from investingdad:

This fixed mine.
But...
Six months ago it started again and that time it was a broken opto wire. That's a tricky repair and I paid to have it done.

I think we will replace the ledge and opto and maybe the target. Have to wait until I can get to it and give a look see.

#7755 10 months ago
Quoted from investingdad:

This fixed mine.
But...
Six months ago it started again and that time it was a broken opto wire. That's a tricky repair and I paid to have it done.

Which opto did you replace? The one at bottom of target assembly?

1 week later
#7756 10 months ago

Planning to join the club as soon as I can find a nice HUO Premium in the Atlanta area (or within a few hours drive). I’m still reading through the thread, but is there a post in here that summarizes what to look for when buying one used? Any parts that wear out often or playfield wear areas I should keep an eye out for?

Can’t wait!

#7757 10 months ago

The ramps can crack. Check for insert ghosting and separation. There is one guy who has posted how his has held up over many plays while on route, I am sure you have seen that.

#7758 10 months ago
Quoted from Moeman65:

Which opto did you replace? The one at bottom of target assembly?

Both were checked, it was the wire on the one in the back. It was severed and only making occasional contact.

#7759 10 months ago

Hi,

I’m new to the club as of Saturday. I have a quick question. I have level the game perfectly side to side and have the pitch just touching the top middle black line. When the ball comes out of the kickout on the left side, it hits the top of the left pop bumper almost every time. Do I need to adjust the level or is there an easier way to fix this? My machine has new clear titan rubbers on it. I don’t know if that’s an issue. Thanks for any help.

#7760 10 months ago
Quoted from Spagano314:

Hi,
I’m new to the club as of Saturday. I have a quick question. I have level the game perfectly side to side and have the pitch just touching the top middle black line. When the ball comes out of the kickout on the left side, it hits the top of the left pop bumper almost every time. Do I need to adjust the level or is there an easier way to fix this? My machine has new clear titan rubbers on it. I don’t know if that’s an issue. Thanks for any help.

I would never trust that built in level. Get yourself a digital inclinometer like this one...amazon.com link »

#7761 10 months ago
Quoted from Spagano314:

Hi,
I’m new to the club as of Saturday. I have a quick question. I have level the game perfectly side to side and have the pitch just touching the top middle black line. When the ball comes out of the kickout on the left side, it hits the top of the left pop bumper almost every time. Do I need to adjust the level or is there an easier way to fix this? My machine has new clear titan rubbers on it. I don’t know if that’s an issue. Thanks for any help.

Mine does that too. I've never attempted a fix. There might be a coil adjustment in settings.

#7762 9 months ago

I have all Titan rubbers. That's not a problem for me.

#7763 9 months ago

Ok, in the next few months I'm going to be in the market for a Stern Star Trek Prem/LE. I'm wanting to go the route of the blackout mods and extra hard lasers. There seems to be multiple blackout mods with varying degrees of installation difficulty from plug and play to soldering. Is there a difference between these blackout mods or do they all do the same thing and I should just look for ease of installation?

#7764 9 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

Ok, in the next few months I'm going to be in the market for a Stern Star Trek Prem/LE. I'm wanting to go the route of the blackout mods and extra hard lasers. There seems to be multiple blackout mods with varying degrees of installation difficulty from plug and play to soldering. Is there a difference between these blackout mods or do they all do the same thing and I should just look for ease of installation?

Mine is Plug-And-Play... and very programmable. AFAIK; there is only one other "blackout" mod on the market - which uses relays and cannot be programmed other that 0 or 100%.

#7765 9 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Mine is Plug-And-Play... and very programmable. AFAIK; there is only one other "blackout" mod on the market - which uses relays and cannot be programmed other that 0 or 100%.

Ah, nice. Someone told me yours required soldering work (in casual conversation.) Good to know!

#7766 9 months ago
Quoted from investingdad:

Both were checked, it was the wire on the one in the back. It was severed and only making occasional contact.

Tracked target random dropping and resetting to a defective opto. First one on the right under the ship. Talked with Chaz at Sterns technical support and he is the one who told me the what the problem was and the part number. THANKS CHAZ!

#7767 9 months ago

Planning on selling my Star Trek Pro so taking a few mods off first.

For sale, mini LCD screen with Stern power tap connector. MicroSD card is loaded with movie scenes.

$160 shipped (USA only)

IMG_1202 (resized).jpgIMG_1204 (resized).jpgIMG_1205 (resized).jpg
Added 9 months ago:

Sold

#7768 9 months ago

I have a Premium Vault and installed the Stern Factory Authorized shaker kit from Pinball life and it worked fine for a day but tonight it started running constantly. It stops/starts with the coin door switch as a high-volt device should, and it stops when I pull the brown/white wire connection on the shaker board. The transistor on the shaker board is very hot.

Any thoughts?

#7769 9 months ago

Possible closed switch, or opto out of alignment?

#7770 9 months ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

I have a Premium Vault and installed the Stern Factory Authorized shaker kit from Pinball life and it worked fine for a day but tonight it started running constantly. It stops/starts with the coin door switch as a high-volt device should, and it stops when I pull the brown/white wire connection on the shaker board. The transistor on the shaker board is very hot.
Any thoughts?

I had this problem on my Iron Maiden and it was a bad node board. That board is the number one thing that breaks on these Spike 2 games for some reason. It also has an insanely low warranty time, like 2 months or something.

#7771 9 months ago

Except that Star Trek is not a spike 2 game.

#7772 9 months ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Except that Star Trek is not a spike 2 game.

Ha! Oops, i blacked out and thought I was on the BKSoR thread.

#7773 9 months ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Except that Star Trek is not a spike 2 game.

And one reason why I own one.
Not that I'll never own a Spike 2 pin but Sam is much less of a concern at this time for sure.

#7774 9 months ago

What exactly is "factory authorized "...I have the red rocket, or whatever shaker everyone bitches about...love it.

#7775 9 months ago
Quoted from Irishbastard:

What exactly is "factory authorized "...I have the red rocket, or whatever shaker everyone bitches about...love it.

Means the same thing it does on a car! F#$k all!

#7776 9 months ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

I have a Premium Vault and installed the Stern Factory Authorized shaker kit from Pinball life and it worked fine for a day but tonight it started running constantly. It stops/starts with the coin door switch as a high-volt device should, and it stops when I pull the brown/white wire connection on the shaker board. The transistor on the shaker board is very hot.
Any thoughts?

Thanks for everyone's input. I contacted Pinball Life where I purchased the kit and Scott Danesi forwarded me to Stern support where I talked with Chaz. He said that they had a bad batch of shaker boards and instructed me to check the Q1 transistor on the shaker board to see if it is a P22NE10L, which it is. He is now sending me a replacement board and a return shipping label for the bad one.

I'll report back how it goes with the new board. Here is a pic of my bad Q1 transistor:

PastedGraphic-1 (resized).jpg

#7777 9 months ago

I have been a member for about 2 weeks. Since buying Star Trek my wife and I watched all 3 of the movies. I know this was joked about a couple pages ago, but I think it would fit the game if Sabotage played during the 4 ball multi all. They used the song in 2 of the 3 movies and I have always liked the Beastie Boys. If someone could put this together I would be willing to donate to the cause. Also, if anyone hears from Aurich about his ST translite and artwork, can you please let me know. Thanks Everyone.

#7778 9 months ago

Hey I'm back in! Picked up a STTNG last month!

STTNG (resized).jpeg

#7779 9 months ago
Quoted from Spagano314:

I have been a member for about 2 weeks. Since buying Star Trek my wife and I watched all 3 of the movies. I know this was joked about a couple pages ago, but I think it would fit the game if Sabotage played during the 4 ball multi all. They used the song in 2 of the 3 movies and I have always liked the Beastie Boys. If someone could put this together I would be willing to donate to the cause. Also, if anyone hears from Aurich about his ST translite and artwork, can you please let me know. Thanks Everyone.

So are you thinking for the vengeance multi-ball or Klingon MB? I have pinball browser and could take a look at adding it for people.

#7780 9 months ago

Hi Gang, thanks in advance for the help. Just joined the club with a pro. Sometimes the ball gets stuck just to the right of the bottom pop bumper. Game seems level when I play. Is it a common problem?

Thanks, Brian

#7781 9 months ago
Quoted from BBC:

Hi Gang, thanks in advance for the help. Just joined the club with a pro. Sometimes the ball gets stuck just to the right of the bottom pop bumper. Game seems level when I play. Is it a common problem?
Thanks, Brian

That happens to me occasionally too on my Vault Pro at home, and it's happened to me on a routed LE that I play occasionally at a local arcade. If I know the tilt is sensitive in the game and I don't nudge it free, I just wait a few seconds for the ball search function to kick in and pop it back into play.

#7782 9 months ago
Quoted from BBC:

Hi Gang, thanks in advance for the help. Just joined the club with a pro. Sometimes the ball gets stuck just to the right of the bottom pop bumper. Game seems level when I play. Is it a common problem?
Thanks, Brian

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-pop-bumper-ball-hang-up-fix-made-easy

#7783 9 months ago
Quoted from BBC:

Hi Gang, thanks in advance for the help. Just joined the club with a pro. Sometimes the ball gets stuck just to the right of the bottom pop bumper. Game seems level when I play. Is it a common problem?
Thanks, Brian

Yes. I will have to try the felt pad idea above.

#7784 9 months ago

All you have to do is unscrew it 1/2 turn

#7785 9 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

All you have to do is unscrew it 1/2 turn

Unscrew what?

#7786 9 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

All you have to do is unscrew it 1/2 turn

yup.
I initially thought that screw was a mistake or something, but without it the ball would for sure get hung up.

#7787 9 months ago

There's a screw next to where your ball gets stuck and the pop bumper. It's been awhile, but I think it just screws into your playfield. Back it off a little until the ball doesn't get stuck anymore.

#7788 9 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

There's a screw next to where your ball gets stuck and the pop bumper. It's been awhile, but I think it just screws into your playfield. Back it off a little until the ball doesn't get stuck anymore.

OK. When I bought the machine used, the screw was not there. Just the hole. I put a screw there with a sleeve over it, but it came out. Going to try the felt pad idea now.

#7789 9 months ago

You don't need a sleeve. Put a 1/4 screw with a round top directly into the table

#7790 9 months ago

Make sure it's the correct size screw for the hole

#7791 9 months ago

I will try that. Thanks
About how high up is the screw normally?

#7792 9 months ago

It's the round top of the screw that prevents the ball from sticking.

1 week later
#7793 9 months ago

For those who haven't seen the secret breakout mode in STTNG:

#7794 9 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

There's a screw next to where your ball gets stuck and the pop bumper. It's been awhile, but I think it just screws into your playfield. Back it off a little until the ball doesn't get stuck anymore.

I haven’t been able to get that screw to move yet. Next is pulling the ramp for better access.

#7795 9 months ago

Does anyone have a link to the 1.62 custom movie soundtrack code?

#7796 9 months ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

Does anyone have a link to the 1.62 custom movie soundtrack code?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-162/page/4

The link above is the thread. Look through it.

http://www.mediafire.com/file/s4j67a163in7spa/Edited_with_162_movie_sounds.rar/file

Not sure if this file is for Prem/LE or pro. Download it and see if it has an info file. You will have to unpack it before installing to usb drive. The drop box links no longer work but this link above does.

#7797 9 months ago

Need help. When I lock the ball under the ship, the drop target isn’t dropping.

I just had issues where the plastic ledge on it broke. I replaced it a few months ago.

Not sure what would cause this. Any help would be appreciated.

#7798 9 months ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Need help. When I lock the ball under the ship, the drop target isn’t dropping.
I just had issues where the plastic ledge on it broke. I replaced it a few months ago.
Not sure what would cause this. Any help would be appreciated.Check opto connectors. Also go into the coil test mode and check to see if it drops.

#7799 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

http://www.mediafire.com/file/s4j67a163in7spa/Edited_with_162_movie_sounds.rar/file
Not sure if this file is for Prem/LE or pro. Download it and see if it has an info file. You will have to unpack it before installing to usb drive. The drop box links no longer work but this link above does.

This worked great. It is the premium/LE code.

Thank you.

#7800 9 months ago

I had an issue with that code that was supposed to have been fixed, which was that in multi-player games, the modes would not advance or complete properly. Can you test this and see if it works properly?

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