(Topic ID: 57136)

Star Trek Club.... Members Only!


By Jean-Luc-Picard

6 years ago



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  • 7,764 posts
  • 636 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by Zitt
  • Topic is favorited by 281 Pinsiders

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There are 7764 posts in this topic. You are on page 155 of 156.
#7701 38 days ago
Quoted from Gorgar123:

Joined the club this weekend with a HUO Pro. Loving it so far.[quoted image]

The pro plays great! And I second the color DMD! Also a shaker, zitt's pop bumper caps, Vengeance explosion mod and visor kit, warp ramp chaser lights and Cliffy's on the plastic ramps! LOL!

#7702 38 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Congrats and welcome to the club! If you can't resist at least one more mod, I highly recommend a color DMD. Truly enhances the game and gives it so much more depth (visually) IMO. Only problem - when animations come up I haven't seen before, I look up to watch and then lose the ball.

Yes, also with color DMD no need for the glair guard.

#7703 38 days ago

Is the DE ST worth adding to a collection? I’ve never had a chance to play it, but would love to have a complete set of ST pins.

#7704 38 days ago

Thanks everyone! Sounds like the color DMD is a must have.

Found the pop bumper caps, explosion mod and visor at various vendors, but does anyone still sell the chaser lights? Could not find them.

#7705 38 days ago
Quoted from Gorgar123:

Thanks everyone! Sounds like the color DMD is a must have.
Found the pop bumper caps, explosion mod and visor at various vendors, but does anyone still sell the chaser lights? Could not find them.

Great mod, pricy but I have bought color DMD 10x and not ever had any problems.

#7706 38 days ago
Quoted from Gorgar123:

Trying to resist additional mods, although I am thinking translucent Titans to replace the black rubber are a must.

Then don't look at my Webshop... Specifically; don't look at
my PopCaps.

Also; don't look at the mod listeither...
it's probably out of date anyway.

#7707 38 days ago
Quoted from Gorgar123:

Thanks everyone! Sounds like the color DMD is a must have.
Found the pop bumper caps, explosion mod and visor at various vendors, but does anyone still sell the chaser lights? Could not find them.

Bummer! Mezel Mods had them but now they are not listed. Maybe email him about it. I've seen them. They are great and cheap.

#7708 38 days ago
Quoted from Gorgar123:

Thanks everyone! Sounds like the color DMD is a must have.
Found the pop bumper caps, explosion mod and visor at various vendors, but does anyone still sell the chaser lights? Could not find them.

Nobody is making them anymore. I had to find my own solution after mine died. The original strip used in the mod can be found here though: https://www.oznium.com/flexible-led-strips/12v-scanning-led-strip#photos

If you are willing and able to do a little bit of soldering, you can fashion your own. I had to get some small gauge wire and a 3-pin molex connector(to plug into my power tap board - only two pins used for this mod). Then just solder the ends together of the strip and wires together.

#7709 38 days ago
Quoted from PWhiz:

Nobody is making them anymore.

Bummer. Thanks for the link though. I might just give it a shot.

#7710 38 days ago

All things considered, it's a really easy mod to do. The strip is cheap and if you have a soldering iron, you're halfway there. I picked the other stuff up from AZ.

Some wire: amazon.com link »
Some Molex connectors: amazon.com link »

I went a bit further and used some shrink tubing to tidy it up, but you could get by with some electrical tape.

Anyway, welcome to the ST club! I've had my Pro for 5 years now and I still love it.

#7711 37 days ago

How similar do you guys think JP2 will shoot compared to Stern Star Trek? There are similarities. I just don't know if this would be a good candidate to sit next to ST in a small 3 pin collection. Opinions appreciated!

#7712 37 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

How similar do you guys think JP2 will shoot compared to Stern Star Trek? There are similarities. I just don't know if this would be a good candidate to sit next to ST in a small 3 pin collection. Opinions appreciated!

I've only played JP2 about 5 times, so this is limited. It didn't feel anything like Star Trek. I guess if I really pressed I could see similar areas for some shots. However when pressed that hard, I come to the conclusion that every pinball machine is just like every other one because they all have flippers and balls.

To me they didn't shoot the same at all, so I think you are safe. And the shots on JP2 are pretty damn cool.

#7713 37 days ago
Quoted from DaveH:

I've only played JP2 about 5 times, so this is limited. It didn't feel anything like Star Trek. I guess if I really pressed I could see similar areas for some shots. However when pressed that hard, I come to the conclusion that every pinball machine is just like every other one because they all have flippers and balls.
To me they didn't shoot the same at all, so I think you are safe. And the shots on JP2 are pretty damn cool.

Thanks and I'm glad to hear it! Sorry if it was a stupid question. I just really like what I see with JP2 and wanted others who have played it to chime in so thanks again!

#7714 35 days ago

I just joined the club yesterday. I purchased it from a local operator. The head and cabinet have damage as you'd expect from something that has been routed. The play field has a little damage in front of the drop target, but I think a Cliffy would cover that up. Other than that, the play field is in great shape.

The machine is really dirty. I played a few games on it and then started ripping it apart last night. I have parts to rebuild both flippers, all 3 pops and both slingshots. There are a few broken plastics, so I'm on the fence about buying a new set.

Anyone ever remove the ship? Is it a pain in the ass? I've never stripped a machine down to the play field and am considering doing this one. The two things that scare me are the ship and the warp ramp. I have no clue how you'd get that thing out of there.

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#7715 35 days ago

I'm with you on that warp ramp? I don't get it either!

#7716 35 days ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Anyone ever remove the ship? Is it a pain in the ass?

I have ship removal instructions on my
Popcap's installation PDF. Hope you find it useful.

#7717 35 days ago

I actually stumbled across that earlier, but it looks like that's for the LE and not the pro. I'm not sure how much difference there is between the two though.

I was hoping a few screws and I could just putt the entire thing out.

#7718 34 days ago

I just figured I’d rip the entire thing apart. I’ve never torn down a topside like this before and I have to say that it wasn’t too bad.

My problem is that I have parts all over the place and I’m not so sure I’ve labeled things with as much detail as I should.

We’ll see once my bulbs get here and I start putting it back together.

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#7719 34 days ago

You should definitely take pictures during tear down.

#7720 34 days ago

For sale: Star Trek Pro half assembled.

#7721 34 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

You should definitely take pictures during tear down.

I’ve been taking a lot of pictures and trying to label things and keep them together. But I’m sure I probably missed something.

Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

For sale: Star Trek Pro half assembled.

That is hilarious!!

#7722 34 days ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

For sale: Star Trek Pro half assembled.

Haha, lol

#7723 34 days ago

That happens. I just picked up a Super Spin for 100 bucks like that.

#7724 33 days ago

I label and bag everything and take tons of pics from several angles. My iPad is great for this. Worth the effort. I did a whole playfield swap this way and no problems.

#7725 33 days ago

I use a magnet and put all my hardware down in a specific order so i can just reverse the process later....and take pics

#7726 32 days ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

I’ve been taking a lot of pictures and trying to label things and keep them together. But I’m sure I probably missed something.

If you get stuck, I’ve heard there is a group out on the internet that all own Star Trek pinball machines who would be willing to take pictures you need... probably a myth

#7727 32 days ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

For sale: Star Trek Pro half assembled.

All finished. She plays 1000% better than it did when I got her. Rebuild flippers, new pops, rubbers, LEDs, new spotlights and a new magnet. Everything was scrubbed and waxed. It’s like a new game.

If I didn’t tell you that it had almost 12,000 plays on it, you’d never know.

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#7728 32 days ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

All finished. She plays 1000% better than it did when I got her. Rebuild flippers, new pops, rubbers, LEDs, new spotlights and a new magnet. Everything was scrubbed and waxed. It’s like a new game.
If I didn’t tell you that it had almost 12,000 plays on it, you’d never know.
[quoted image]

Very inspirational. I've had a premium since it's been a thing. It still plays well, but I think it's time to give it the business.

#7729 31 days ago

Star Trek has really held up. There was a thread out there about one on route and had a huge amount of play. The PF held up great on it.

#7730 30 days ago

Curious...What would cause the flippers to completely die for a few seconds during gameplay? Appears to happen once in a blue moon.

#7731 30 days ago
Quoted from ectobar:

Very inspirational. I've had a premium since it's been a thing. It still plays well, but I think it's time to give it the business.

Thanks! It actually wasn't as bad as I thought. I'm not sure on the differences between the Pro and the Premium though.

#7732 30 days ago
Quoted from Irishbastard:

Curious...What would cause the flippers to completely die for a few seconds during gameplay? Appears to happen once in a blue moon.

Trough switch or trough opto maybe.

#7733 30 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Trough switch or trough opto maybe.

Yup, or it could be the connector. I was having this problem on my ACDC and it was the connector. I used the dielectric grease fix and it has worked fine ever since.

See this post...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-pro-flippers-stop-working-during-game#post-2149136

#7734 30 days ago
Quoted from Gorgar123:

Yup, or it could be the connector. I was having this problem on my ACDC and it was the connector. I used the dielectric grease fix and it has worked fine ever since.
See this post...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-pro-flippers-stop-working-during-game#post-2149136

Thanks, will try it out.

#7736 27 days ago

Yes, I ordered and received the dielectric grease.... Um....err.... Awaiting "free time" opportunity to apply said grease

1 week later
#7737 20 days ago

Curious situation here: What would cause the center drop target to drop as if it was supposed to and reset 2 or 3 times? Only happens occasionally and it isn't a Mechanical fault. Seems to be ok after a few times and is ok for awhile.It acts as though the computer or something is telling it to drop.

#7738 20 days ago
Quoted from Moeman65:

Curious situation here: What would cause the center drop target to drop as if it was supposed to and reset 2 or 3 times? Only happens occasionally and it isn't a Mechanical fault. Seems to be ok after a few times and is ok for awhile.It acts as though the computer or something is telling it to drop.

Could be as simple as a loose connection. Reseat the plug is usually the first easy bet on this game for drop, warp optos, trough. As for the drop, sometimes the ledge can get worn down. There are posts in this thread about how to fix that as well.

#7739 20 days ago

I think you'll need to disassemble it from underneath and replace the drop target and ledge that it sits on. Mine used to do that. Fairly common

#7740 20 days ago

The drop target starts to slip, especially on the 2012.

#7741 20 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

I think you'll need to disassemble it from underneath and replace the drop target and ledge that it sits on. Mine used to do that. Fairly common

I have already replaced the ledge because it was dropping. It's actually acting as if its being signaled to so as to lock a ball but the lock isn't lit. When the ledge was defective it was more of an abrupt drop. This is a more subtle drop and reset.

#7742 20 days ago

I don't think it's allowed to drop, unless it's pushed / falls off. You might need to replace the drop target too.

Somewhere in this thread, there was a fix. For me, I replaced both drop and ledge and was ok. Mine would constantly drop with nothing hitting it.

When you put everything back together, make sure you have a maximum ledge.

#7743 20 days ago
Quoted from ectobar:

Could be as simple as a loose connection. Reseat the plug is usually the first easy bet on this game for drop, warp optos, trough. As for the drop, sometimes the ledge can get worn down. There are posts in this thread about how to fix that as well.

I know, I put small thin washers as per instructions between ledge and assembly to add a extra area of ledge and it worked for a good while until the ledge broke in half. I have already checked connections and cleaned them. Guess I will have to install another new ledge and the drop target this time. Only thing the new target doesn't have the art work on it.

#7744 20 days ago

I 3D printed the one linked somewhere in this club and it has worked really well, fwiw.

#7745 20 days ago

I put a red and yellow reflective sticker on my drop target

#7746 19 days ago
Quoted from Moeman65:

I know, I put small thin washers as per instructions between ledge and assembly to add a extra area of ledge and it worked for a good while until the ledge broke in half. I have already checked connections and cleaned them. Guess I will have to install another new ledge and the drop target this time. Only thing the new target doesn't have the art work on it.

You shouldn’t need a new drop target, just a new ledge. This time, instead of washers, cut a thin strip the size of the ledge out of an old credit card, or if you don’t have one, two index cards back to back. Put the strip behind the new ledge and reattach the ledge. This will do the same thing as the washers but will even out pressure on the ledge so it stops breaking.

#7747 19 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

You shouldn’t need a new drop target, just a new ledge. This time, instead of washers, cut a thin strip the size of the ledge out of an old credit card, or if you don’t have one, two index cards back to back. Put the strip behind the new ledge and reattach the ledge. This will do the same thing as the washers but will even out pressure on the ledge so it stops breaking.

Thank you very much for this suggestion! I had been thinking along that same theory but wasn't sure on what or how thick a spacer to use. They used a thin piece of paper from the factory but I couldn't reason it to doing much, so consequently I didn't know how much thickness to add. Is this something you have done?

#7748 19 days ago
Quoted from Moeman65:

Thank you very much for this suggestion! I had been thinking along that same theory but wasn't sure on what or how thick a spacer to use. They used a thin piece of paper from the factory but I couldn't reason it to doing much, so consequently I didn't know how much thickness to add. Is this something you have done?

Yes. I used a credit card. I would think index cards or card stock would work as well, just not sure how many layers equals the same thickness.

#7749 19 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Yes. I used a credit card. I would think index cards or card stock would work as well, just not sure how many layers equals the same thickness.

Thanks again! Think I will use index cards, they will be easier to put the aligning screw holes in. The Fische paper they installed from the factory is about worthless.

#7750 17 days ago
Quoted from Moeman65:

Thanks again! Think I will use index cards, they will be easier to put the aligning screw holes in. The Fische paper they installed from the factory is about worthless.

This fixed mine.

But...

Six months ago it started again and that time it was a broken opto wire. That's a tricky repair and I paid to have it done.

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