Welcome to the club.

Welcome to the club, I've had my Pro for 3 years and still LOVE it. I chromed mine out except for the coin door. Good luck finding an LE, they don't come up for sale very often. You'll pay top buck if you can find one.

Yea im a sucker for the lightshow lol but not sure its worth the extra 4k over the pro..... especially since i just found the aurich package and shaker for my pro.

Oh the LE is definitely worth it, it as in $. Love mine seriously with the movie music and color dmd! It’s stunning blue armor with awesome light Show best Stern LE to date RGB over the pro sexy as they come. Find one you better buy it.

Carry on and enjoy

I feel the same way (although still don't see the value of prem/le but I'm not a ST guy) - this game was a total sleeper for me. Someone recommended and I said sure why not. Wow what a flow, great sounds and effects and love that gravity shot. Great value too.

I also love the stock music. The only update I made was too play the movie theme during game over. Fits well

Without a doubt!!! This is one LE that really sets itself apart.....

Everytime I see Stock Popcaps on a game... I die a little inside. :tear:

The ones you sold me about 2 years ago are still in the box...I should probably put them on some time!

Robert

What are you waiting for! Zits caps are F ing sweet!! The originals are generic!!!!!

Agree again!!! look like they belonged on the game to start....a sign of a legit mod!!!

Starting to get into the flow of this thing!!!! Any tips to key point shots? Have only broken 120m so far, but having a blast doing so.....

seriously. You have one of the best mods with your caps. SO MUCH BETTER! Best of all super easy to install on pro.

I actually don't mind the stock caps... I looked at Zits caps, I like them....But I like the stock ones too, so it's a 50/50 for me...

i have some speaker panels and video mods in stock

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Gave my ST some more love. Just installed the Zitt pop bumper caps and they look great.

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If anyone who changed out their bumper caps with something else who is willing to sell their factory ones please pm me. I would like to buy them. Thanks!

PM Sent!

Can anyone help out one of our latest members with his question above??

Would be great to have this answered and referenced for future reference for all of us, I will definitely need it as I plan on being buried with my LE

I don’t imagine it’s the easiest fix. I’m sure just pulling the Vengeance out will make any troubleshooting or repair easier. Trace the wires back, look for breaks, maybe a loose connection... but if there are no breaks or connector issues you more than likely are gonna need to replace that LED.

Is pulling Vengeance fairly easy? I've got a couple of rubbers on the right side I can't get to without removing it...a bit intimidating mechanism.

Sorry for not reading through all the posts yet....new to the club, as well....thanks....

nope lol

ha....this I figured....

take lots of pictures and put items in zip lock bags with labels on them.

I would start out by following the wires underneath the playfield - there's probably a connector under there. then wire up a 9volt battery to a couple of wire to check to see if the light comes on. If not then there is probably a break where the led attaches to the wiring (or less likely that the led is bad). If the light doesn't turn on then the issue is further upstream. Before I took apart the vengeance I would make sure I had to take it apart.

Yea, I got clear Titans everywhere except the 2 inlane posts, under Vengeance. Think I will keep it our little secret for now....machine plays fine, and rubbers are good....

I'd also check the connectors going to the nacelles before ripping it apart.
The nacelles are screwed on so you might be able to do something to repair it without having to take apart the Vengeance.
Check my blog post about the Nacelles; maybe there is some info there:
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=476

If you do have to pull off the Vengeance, the instructions for my popcaps should help:
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/modifications-bolt-on-mods-stern-star-trek-popcaps-p-31.html

So, the two bulbs in the spotlights on top of my slings keep popping out. I finally changed them out for different bulbs after one got stuck in the trough and another smashed to hell in the slings. Not sure these new bulbs are going to last. Anyone have a trick to make sure they stay in there.

I believe Stern made an updated spotlight that holds the bulbs in better on subsequent releases. I’ve also heard of people using a little tape or glue.

yeah used a glue gun to lock em in. real pain when they get stuck in the trough

I use museum putty for any wedge LED that's either falling out of a spotlight, or flickering. Just a tiny pinch of it.

STERN STAR TREK PRO ColorDMD LCD INSTALL WITH SPEAKER PANEL LIGHTS

Tonight I finished up my ColorDMD LCD panel install on my ST Pro. First off, Doug and the ColorDMD folks provide a top notch product and even greater service. The Stern metal speaker panels pose some challenges for the LCD install because the larger LCD panel has very little to mount on as well as the gap between the shield and how the larger panel must mount. Also, speaker panel lights cause an extra challenge due to light bleed. Wooden panels, like I have on my LOTR are much simpler even though I used a little extra strips of weather stripping on my LOTR. Not as easy for the ST...that required some thought. I did search but only found minimal info, possibly my search skills leave something to be desired. However, figuring out how to do a mod properly is part of the fun of this hobby for me.

I bought a pack of weatherstripping for about $3, pic below. Then with my ColorDMD order I took the default shield and stand off kit that was included. Prior to my order, I did also email ColorDMD to double check I was buying all I needed and Doug responded quickly. I took the original DMD out and the red shield off. Then I put the clear shield on. Then I used 2 washers for each corner screw and then mounted the double female posts all around. The washers help give some threads for the other screw post to screw into.

I then cut weather stripping for the sides next to the lighted speakers first, then I put another piece to act as a side border inside the shield, then repeated on the other side. Then I put a piece lengthwise on the bottom part of the inside of the speaker panel. Then I cut a notch in the middle of the next piece of weatherstrip for the spare screw and that made a nice bottom border. The top part of the panel above the shield was a little more of a challenge, I ran a piece lengthwise and adhered that to the back side of the panel, this gave me a mounting spot for the next piece of weatherstrip on the top, I cut the same kind of notch for the spare screw on the top as well. Another pic below.

Now I was ready to mount the DMD panel but the post screws were a little too long to get the panel snug and I was out of washers. So I used the original DMD bolts to act as a spacer/big washer, which provided the correct spacing to secure the panel tight. Close up pic and backside of mounted panel pic below. As a note, I grounded the panel with the ground from the speaker. I added the green frog tape to the top side of the weatherstrip to cover the adhesive and help avoid me sticking my finger in the adhesive when I go to remove the panel in the future. Then I did the USB update reinstalled the panel and happy to see no light bleed, looks great. I posted this in hopes that this might help someone in the future. I am sure there are other methods available that may yield better results, however, I am pleased with how it worked out.

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Looks good! Love that translite!

Thanks gun. As an update, this AM the top weatherstrip fell down on the one side. So I put another piece of weatherstrip above it facing the rear of the speaker panel on top of the other piece. I was concerned prior about this and overall thickness. The two facing the rear are just a little thicker and no big deal. Here is an updated pic. I do not expect the weatherstrip to fall back down, if so I will need some tape on top for additional support. Then I added another piece above that on the top because I had leftover weatherstrip. This used up almost the whole roll of weatherstrip.

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That auxiliary transistor board is giving me some issues. I’m gonna have it fixed again, but does anyone know the best place to score a replacement ?

Who needs another topper idea? usually 250, about $80 with prime.

https://www.amazon.com/Mega-Bloks-Enterprise-Collector-Construction/dp/B01ARGB91K

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Just joined the club with a ST Premium. Under 300 plays. This game is fantastic. It completes my collection nicely, as I hit my space limit (and wife's tolerance limit!!).

It does have a couple of issues. (1) The warp ramp is a mess....completely non-repeatable. The ball comes out so fast that 1/4 of the time it ends up in the shooter lane. Most of the time it just bounces two or three times, and it's past the flipper. I've seen a couple of fixes on the forums, so I'll try to tackle that. (2) The standup target just to the left of left orbit is leaning into the orbit and kicks the ball SDTM on a slow rollback. Don't know if that can be adjusted, or if the adjustment is "just bend it".

Other than that I love this game! Next step is a colorDMD and maybe an entire speaker panel. The basic one is pretty bland compared to the rest of the cabinet and playfield. Is there only one source for colorDMDs? I'm not crazy about the "cartoonish" look of some of them. Is that a setting? Also, I see a lot of talk about alternate translites. What are the options, and which do you recommend for quality and price?

Congrats on your purchase! I tried everything to get the warp ramp dialed in, and what finally worked for me is putting some sticky felt on it where it exits the backbox. It slows down the ball just enough that gravity can catch up and bring the ball down to the playfield before it lunges forward into the shooter lane.

Whoa!!! congrats....I enjoy my STLE tremendously.....warp ramp is crazy fast...takes a little practice (and I'm an average player at best) but you can actually get the hang of the speed...game flows great!!!

ColorDMD is awesome on this title....highly recommend it. I don't have any input on the alt translite, as I'm good w mine....

Pretty sharp turn from your "TAF,TZ, TRON" comparison thread. What made you choose ST? Just curious (I've got them all, but very different, for sure)...think expanding your gameroom, and keeping your Wife happy is in your future.... ....this stuff is addictive....Enjoy!!!!...mark

All of these were on my wishlist. Those three were all for sale around me at over $7k, and I knew I could just get one. But $7k for TAF or TZ had me second guessing. I checked CL Tuesday morning, and there it was...a ST Prem w/low plays an hour away. Mid $6's and all stock, so it'll be pushing $7k if I put in the colorDMD. ST Prem was my #1. Emailed right away, and he was the original owner with receipt from Gex in Denver. It's in perfect shape, and when I checked the audits, wow!!

I may have overpaid by a few hundred, but for less than 300 plays, I'm ok with that. He was a great guy, not a pinhead. He bought it for the ST theme. Sometimes you just get lucky. But I tell you, two 50 year old guys lugging that thing up a narrow staircase was not fun!

Welcome. I also second the ColorDMD mod. There is really only ColorDMD... while there are copycats out there... their tools and coloring capability are garbage. Further the ColorDMD only colors dots that are there, so the cartoonish nature are the dots stern provided. Unless Stern sells a retrofit with all-new high rez dots; I don't think you are going to find anything better.

When your pocket book recovers from the STPrem purchase; you should look at my products:
Stern Star Trek Mods
http://pinball-mods.com/url/SternSTPMods

and the Comprehensive MOD list.

Welcome to the club! This game still remains one of my how did I miss it until now.... It still is satisfying and I'm someone that doesn't feel the need to hold onto anything.

I second the pop bumper Caps....

That is for sure!! Very cool how you were contemplating the others, and your next machine popped up, knowing this was right for you......

Great game....!!!!

Welcome to the club, it's a keeper for sure.

If you struggled carrying the Star Trek than the tz would not have made it. Welcome to the club.

Just got in a few games. Here are some impressions. The felt strip helps with the warp ramp, but if you three in a row the ball still comes out of the exit and bounces away from the flipper. Don't know that four could even be possible. I need to do some studying of the rules. I'm not sure what to do with the modes. I'm just playing chase the lights. Got to Kobayashi and defeated the Vengeance...very fun. The laser show is also really cool.

The one thing I think is missing is at the start. When you push the start button, and the ball is sitting in the trough, the game should be playing BB Sabotage. That would be awesome!

So when I got my Star Trek pro the warp ramp extra ball award was set on three. Read various rule sheets that it is supposed to be awarded on four. The factory default is auto which never gave me an extra ball at all when I hit eight ramps. Should the factory default be giving me one at four warp ramps?

Auto adjusts for your play. So depending on your machine at that time, auto might not award until later. When I left mine on auto, it crept over 9. I hard set it at 3 to give my wife and other guests a chance.

Oh, so that's why mine crept from 3 to 5! I thought I was having a stroke! Thanks!

I like/want mine set to three permanently. Sometimes I'm off on that shot all game and at 5 I just avoid it when my shooting's not "on".

Thanks for the explanation, I guess I will just set it at four and be done with it.

Strategy question: Is it always beneficial to shoot the Galactic Away Team when it's lit and you're in a mode? I liken it to the Upgrade in GotG. That is always beneficial as it gives points and additional shots to complete modes. However, the Away Team shot alters the mode completely. Have had the game less than a week and Bowen's tutorial doesn't really go into this.